| Author | Message | ||||
     Reuel |
Maybe you could try mounting it with a half twist, if it'll reach, and if you don't mind riding backward...  | ||||
| Berkshire |
LOL! | ||||
| Berkshire |
Jd, here's painting info: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/361119.html?1210588716 | ||||
| Jerzydevil |
Sycho, I put the MT75 on my Blast and with the undertail trimmed, it started rubbing the bottom of my tag on small bumps and dips. I think they somehow are a hair taller, or maybe my shock is bad too. Also, I've tried different air pressure in the rear, and its feels squirrely no matter what pressure i use. | ||||
| Berkshire |
Sycho & Jerzy, I think you guys have something major wrong with your shock - seriously, there's like a foot of clearance there - it shouldn't rub unless you're riding supercross or something! The MT75 is the same size as the stock tire, so it's got to be very close to the same size. Even if it were a hair bigger, it's not nearly as much bigger as the 140/70 tires a lot of people are running. Those often require swingarm modification to prevent rubbing, but that's the only place they rub - not on the fender or plate bracket. Also, the MT75 is stock on the '08 Blast, and the factory wouldn't use it if it rubbed. Check your upper & lower shock mounts, and also the fender & bracket attachment - somethin' ain't right! If all that's OK, then you probably have a shock with compression dampening blown out. Remove shock from bike, remove spring from shock, and it will probably be easier to push in than to pull out, or both will be easy. Considering the spring rate, that shock should be STIFF! You might find the shock alone (K9114.T) for $85, or the entire shock-spring assembly (K0410.T) for $117 ...or upgrade to something adjustable!  | ||||
| Sycho |
Thank you guys for the advice. Before I try any wrenching myself should I take it back to the dealer? Meaning shouldn't this be a warranty item? If not then I will definitely pick up a P3 Manual and try some problem solving on my own (or with a little help from you guys). Gearheaderiko If possible I'd like to get together asap but this weekend will be busy. I'll be in touch though I'd like to see your bikes up close. 'Nother question, do you work in Anaheim or do you live there? | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
"I wonder if the new twisted belt will last longer than the untwisted one?" Hopefully I'll let you know in 16,000 miles! They are really easy to twist up without tweakage. However, they are just as easy to tweak if its done wrong! | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sycho: PM sent | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
2007 should be under warranty. | ||||
| Berkshire |
The belt will roll up without twisting as long as you do an odd number of loops: one loop - obviously, works best when installed this way! three loops - easy to do, looks like it'd fit under the seat five loops - haven't tried it, but should be possible Warranty?! crap, I probably voided mine already!  | ||||
| Rainman |
Hey guys, I've got the sproket off of the rear wheel and need to put it back on with the tire. How much torque do I need to put on the bolts to keep the sproket working the way it's supposed to? Do I need loctite? I read the wheel thread but couldn't find the torque specs. Thanks, PS: Anyone know how much torque on the front axel nut? I got the rear off the knowledge vault....Mac (Message edited by Rainman on July 11, 2008) | ||||
| Ezblast |
LOL - you are suposed to not reuse those bolts though I have once for an extended period, buy new ones if you can or replace with new when you can -
EZ | ||||
| Ezblast |
And to make sure its all good - time for the dancing around the tree ceremony. EZ | ||||
| Rainman |
OK, so I've got the tire on (I'm getting help here from the local KTM dealer. Good folks.) and the bolts back on. I'm about to do the front tire reinstallation. Unfortunately, I'm in an urban area with few trees. Does the ceremony require oak, maple, beech, dogwood or is any tree OK? Does this require nakedness? If so, I better wait until tonight 'cause there ain't nobody wanna see me nekkid. Also, will a Texas 2-step work or is this a modern interpretive dance? And how many footpounds in my paus de deux? PS Thanks for the torque info. Will the bolts last another 6,000 miles? | ||||
| Ezblast |
So far - a little over 6000 - but they looked good when I put them back in - using another item with the same thread specks (a threaded rod coupling)to test for trueness and no wobble, and a smooth firm threading, used red locktite. If I remember correctly Oak is the preferred tree, however, several other trees have been substituted with varying degrees of success, being naked is a required I hear - a minimum of 3 times around the tree - perhaps a two step would do - often done at night anyway - with tiki torches - lol - hand tight. | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Re-used bolts-no big deal. Loctite and torque, very important. Let us know how the 2 step goes. The gods may look favourably upon the added flair.The rest of the dance is as EZ stated, but the Tiki torches might break some fire code laws (perhaps check with your local law enforcement about that). LOL! | ||||
| Bzbuell |
What do you guys think about this set of bike jacks? ... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MOTORCYCLE-STAND-FR ONT-HEAD-LIFT-AND-REAR-STAND_W0QQitemZ140248774126 QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item140248774126&_trksid=p3911 .m14.l1318 | ||||
| Swampy |
The bike stand, yeah, its OK, it might work.... Which reminds me I found a dirt bike work stand on the highway on Thursday. Oak tree, nekkid only, Two step is OK but the interpretive dance will get more funny looks from neighbors and possibly keep them from bugging you for a while. Rainman, do not let anybody remove your sprocket to change tires, just have them mount it from the brake disc side. The front axle bolt torques to 38-42 foot Lbs, don't forget to tighten the pinch bolt up also AMHIR(remember Blasst) I think that goes to 17 Foot Lbs. If you need a tire by August, ship it here and we will ride. | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Bike stands look good. Good price, they'll come in handy. Pinch bolt is 15 ft lbs. | ||||
| Cheeef |
Gearheaderiko - Thanx for the advice but, on the THIRD inquiry, the apt. orfice turned up the key. It had been turned in 2 weeks ago, we just hadn't talked to someone who would actually check the drawer. Will get spares made. I'll toddle off to my Old School Buell usual hangout. TY again. }} | ||||
| Bzbuell |
Need some help, guys .... We're talking about a stock 2000 Blast with 2850 miles on it. I'm currently keeping it in the warehouse at my work since I have better areas for practicing there than around home. So, it sat without being started for about a week cuz I came down with a nasty bug.  Anyway, tried to start it yesterday, and it cranked strong but only gave an occasional sputter. I thought I may have run it dry of gas because I noticed it coughing a bit just before I shut it down the last time I rode it (had to switch to reserve tank about 5 minutes before putting her up for the night, planned to take it to the gas station next time I rode). So, I go back to the office today with a gas can and put just under 2 gallons in it. Turned it over countless times, but it doesn't even give a good pop. I don't know if it's a fuel supply issue or lack of spark - or something else I didn't consider? I checked spark plug connections and everything looked good - no corrosion, etc. I removed the air box cover and don't smell a strong presence of fuel like I'd expect from a flooded engine, so I'm wondering if I have a plugged fuel line? Shouldn't be the fuel filter at 2850 miles, should it?  | ||||
| Mr_evilmonkey |
Hello I am new to the board. After much research Ive decided on a Blast, I do not know if I want to finance I new one or wait and try and get a used one, However this definitely the bike for me. | ||||
| Dankno |
Well, I finally got the Blast all plated and legal style, and the maiden voyage went pretty much with out a hitch. I did however experience a slight backfiring (through the carb) while it was warming up on the way home, and on the way to work after stopping for a red light it wouldn't down shift from 2nd to 1st. I already ordered up a pair of "boots" hoping to nip the backfiring in the bud, but the trans issue has me a little more concerned. I was able to slip the clutch and pull through 2nd gear to get moving, and the rest of the ride to and from work I had no problem engaging first. I looked in the archives and found a post about the 00 and early 01 P3s needing an adjustment to keep them from "locking out" first but the link for the fix no longer works. What do you guys think, am I just being paranoid or do I need to spend some nude time with a tree? | ||||
| Ezblast |
Danko - Naw - just get an inspection gasket and adjust your clutch - its easy - just loosen the foot peg holder - no need to take it off - if you want you can replace the bolts with threaded rod couplings and lock washers to make it much easier later. Welcome Evil! - lol Bz - first try replacing Das Boot - then after that any diagnosis - would be valid - a 2000 is old for rubber. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on July 13, 2008) | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome evilmonkey!(whoops, MR evilmonkey) If you need help with your decision, new vs used, we'll be glad to help! (I've done both!LOL) | ||||
| Mr_evilmonkey |
Any advice would be great Gearheaderiko, I am stuck in the middle on this, I know I can probably pick one up for 1500 to 2500 this winter, but the last time I went with a private sale it did not end well. | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Then your best $$ bet is probably used, with a warranty, from a dealer and negotiate a reasonable price (if it isnt already reasonably priced). If you think you're going to keep it a long time and/or money isnt a problem, go new. My assumption is that you're not particularly willing or able to spend a lot of time on repairing or maintaining it yourself. They are very simple and reliable, but that can still end up very frustrating if thats not the path (used) you want to risk taking. | ||||
| Rainman |
Hi Bz, I know this sounds odd, especially coming from a guy who just finished dancing bucknekkid around a tulip poplar tree, but did you check to make sure the fuel valve was on? It's one of those things that's easy to forget, like the poor guy who pushed his Nighthawk for a mile before discovering it wouldn't start because the cut-off switch was still off. Uh, don't ask how I know that. (Please don't be insulted. Just thought I'd throw it out there.) | ||||
| Bzbuell |
Not offended, bud. I triple-checked all the "Doh!" items like the cut-off valve. Fuel supply is the problem. Neighbor had some starter fluid, and it cranks up great until the starter fluid is spent. Turned the fuel petcock to OFF and disconnected the fuel line, and around 1 - 1.5 ounces of fuel came out of the line. Slowly turned the petcock on, and fuel does come out of the tank, so the issue is somewhere between the fuel line and the carb's jet. I didn't go so far as to remove that fuel line from the carb as it started to rain and I had to pack it up. In the next day or so I plan to get some extra fuel line, and an in-line fuel filter to put between the tank and carb (Buell didn't put one in to begin with???). Just hoping I don't have to pull the carb as I'm inexperienced in carb disassembly and I know carb calibration can be touchy. Will contact my local HD dealer for Das Boot tomorrow. Hope they're not as much of a rip-off house as I think they'll be. (Message edited by BzBuell on July 13, 2008) | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Check the boot! Even if the carb is completely disconnected from the engine (but in place) it will still run with starting fluid! Technically, they have a fuel filter in the gas tank and dont need an external fuel filter, but with an 8 year old bike that has obviously been sitting, fuel lines can break down after the filter and lodge particles in the carb. Complete carb disassembly is rarely necessary, just pull the float bowl and jets to check for particles (carefully-if its not the boot). |
