| Author | Message | ||
     Berkshire |
Temperature, barometer, and humidity all make a difference, and there are other things that can have an even bigger effect on top speed - head/tail wind, road surface, tire pressure, rider position, and riding gear. Sitting up straight and wearing a mesh jacket with a mild headwind limits me to about 85 (putting my feet on the rear pegs and laying on the tank bag fixes it), but with leather and a slight tailwind I can hit the rev limiter sitting up straight. I wonder how fast I could go with leather pants?! | ||
| Robdog88 |
thanks for clarifying the flats, i haven't jetted it yet, will be going with 48/175 (seems like everyone agrees with this in the archives, also have K&N fliter), and will shim the needle at that time. Hopefully i'll be able to get a decent amount of mileage with the Jardine (with quiet core). thanks everyone (Message edited by Robdog88 on May 30, 2008) | ||
| Kustomklassix |
"I wonder how fast I could go with leather pants?!" Faster Berk. Alot faster.  | ||
| Reuel |
I was running 45/175, shimmed needle, getting 53 MPG on a good day. I went 48/180, XL needle, no shims, and I'm averaging 57+. Then my muffler fell off.  Yesterday at lunch time, I noticed exhaust sound changes and clinking noises. One of the header nuts came off, followed by the rear bracket breaking at the weld. I'll ask them how much they charge to put a nut in the pipe for an O2 sensor. | ||
| Robdog88 |
Reuel, are you running a Jardine exhaust? I just want to get the best set up possible or close to it the first time around. My nearest Harley dealer is about 70 miles away and don't want to make any unnessesary trips there. hoping ot pick up what i need for my exhaust change when i go there for Riders Edge tomorrow. | ||
| Ezblast |
Use the stock lower front mounting hardware, get an exhaust gasket, jet, shim and enjoy! EZ | ||
| Robdog88 |
is it alright to shim before you jet? also can steel #6 washers be used because i have some of those already. | ||
| Reuel |
I'm running a Cherry Bomb exhaust and a 4" Advance Auto intake. Pictures How thick are #6 washers? You're looking for about 1/20" (.050) of shim. (Message edited by reuel on May 30, 2008) | ||
| Robdog88 |
with two they are 1/16" (together) everywhere i've read in here people recommend brass, i was wondering if they needed to be brass. i just want to be sure that shimming before i jet will not cause any problems either. I will be jetting as soon as my exhaust gets here, which hopefully will be mid-late next week | ||
| Ezblast |
No it doesn't need to be a machined brass washer (s), however, they have the same speck, being machined, the steel on the other hand are stamped and so have variances - as long as you are in .05 range you are good. EZ | ||
| Robdog88 |
alright, thanks more questions may arise when my exhaust gets here, until then, safe riding everyone | ||
| Krjoseph |
"putting my feet on the rear pegs and laying on the tank" Glad to know I'm not the only one whose done that. | ||
| Aikiman |
I purchased a used Blast last year, and have had serious grinding with first gear (on & off, improves slightly when warmed up). So I tried to change the tranny fluid myself, since a number of people on this forum managed to do it without removing the muffler. BIG MISTAKE on my part! I removed the drain plug all the way (first mistake), and probably stripped some of the threads of the drain hole trying to put the plug back in. When I brought the bike to Harley, they said that they may have to replace the pan (they don't re-thread stuff...). I also tried to put some oil into the vent tube that doesn't have a plug (along the frame). Was that the correct vent tube?? (Message edited by aikiman on May 31, 2008) | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome to the Thumper Forum Aikiman! Yes that was the right tube to put fluid in. Be careful not to wash in that area too well as you can also fill your trans with water if you are not careful. Good luck! | ||
| Awf_hand |
I'm wondering if the noise that I'm hearing is normal..? Under part throttle at cruising RPM, the engine sounds "clattery", almost like a diesel. It is an '07 with 4200 miles on it, and about a year of warranty left. The boot hasn't been done, but has given no indication of issue (other than a solitary, non-repeating backfire). I always use 92 octane and the noise has been there for my entire ownership (about 400 miles) of this bike. Other than uneasiness about the unfamiliar, I love this bike! I'm in the process of fitting travel bags to it and getting ready to do some longer runs. ____________________________ Firing order: 1 | ||
| Swampy |
Awf hand, If your bike has not been in for any kind of work, look under the bike at the primary chain adjustment screw. Look for the spacer that they put in there to keep the primary from being adjusted too tight. If the spacer is in place then a primary chain adjustment is in order and will probably take care of the noise. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! It also possible you're hearing the footpegs clanking around and maybe someone hasnt changed or used too thin an oil, but its usually non-adjustment of the primary. | ||
| Awf_hand |
I'll peek underneath it tonight to see if the spacer is there. I also will pick up an inch-pounds torque wrench. The footpegs do rattle a bit, but not like this, and not at light, part-throttle. This noise is present without vibration. Oil is 20w-50 HD SE Syn (has been since 1000 miles -have all slips) and will continue to be during the warranty, after which I'll be looking for local Amsoil dealers. The only work that has been performed including maint, has been a motor mount, but, aren't they all? All work was done at St. Paul HD (in MN). I'm in Eau Claire, WI, BTW. ____________________ Firing order 1 | ||
| Ezblast |
Adjust it 5 flats out further than the manual recommends. You could also adjust by the sound meathod - warm engine - at least 20 min worth of riding - then at idle - loosen till you hear a sound, then tighten till it is gone, then lock her down. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on June 02, 2008) | ||
| Ezblast |
Did octain boost help, or seafoam - sometimes cleaning the carbon off helps - has for me, 0.40gap feeler gage thickness is 3deg for stock ignitions. EZ | ||
| Wolffsoul |
Need advice. ok so remember a couple a weeks ago my friend was in a motorcycle accident?  So they are they are calling the bike a total loss. the bike was garaged and only had 2700 miles on it. 2004 very well taken care of. Work for her was 16 miles round trip. How much should we ask for? i seen one for 3200 obo but had 4200 miles on it. Any suggests? i don't want to get screwed by the insurance company. | ||
| Reuel |
Look at Kelly Blue Book, then NADA book. Add any accessories that may have been added to the bike. After you do that, pick the highest value between the two. That should be the minimum you should get for it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Definitely add up every little accessory bought on the bike, that can add a $1000 to what they give you (did for me). Do the research as above on Kelly, NADA, Edmunds, local classifieds. Thats what the insurance company will (or should do, there are some shady companies around). Also, you can keep the bike if you want to. The buy back can be very little or a lot $300-$1500. IE they said the bike was $3000 in good condition and is now worth $1000 for parts,they would pay you $2000 if you keep the bike. I do know someone who kept his for $300 because thats what he told the insurance company it was worth for parts. You can negotiate. They will also pay for damaged gear. I got paid for everything I was wearing (including socks,they cut most of it off anyway). They may also pay for a rental car or the difference she had to spend to get to work. Lastly if there was any kind of injury be prepared to GET A LAWYER.Insurance companies will be all helpful getting your bike or car fixed, but can stall on the medical while they wait for the statute of limitations to run out. If that happens you get NOTHING! (unless you file a lawsuit within that time. However once you file they stop paying for anything until the case is closed). Yeah, I know thats way more information than you asked for! | ||
| Wolffsoul |
No, no thank you for all the info. you rock  It is very helpful. Anything else would be cool too> We have the bike now it was dropped off today. The front end is shot and they said the frame is bent too. We have been talking to a lawyer just incase. We have good health insurance. kisses from the both of us thanks again. | ||
| Reuel |
Here's my scenario: $1100 because of high mileage, which made me scratch my head. It only had about 30K. Go figure. They made it $1290 for the extras I put on it. They let me buy it back for $90. Delaware doesn't require paperwork, so there's no nasty on the title. Actual damages according to Seaford HD/Buell was $770 or so. I fixed it all and then some for about $300 or so. Still got a scratch on my gas tank cover and the handlebar is a little bent, but it's not noticeable. $6500 for pain, inconvenience, and I convinced them that it delayed my advancement. | ||
| Awf_hand |
Okay, I adjusted the primary chain as directed. I followed the procedure as published (had to buy crow-foot set to do it without exhaust removal) and got my tensioner, er, tensioned. -Aside: It seems silly to me that there be a major mechanical piece on this bike that requires adjustment at a shorter interval than the oil change recommendations. WTH!? The clatter is still there under very light gain-throttle. Again, I'm not sure that this is abnormal. It has been nearly 20 years since I've had an air-cooled engine under me, so I could just be hearing a slight pre-ignition, that I never heard through the water jacket on my previous thumper. In another aside, I keep hearing that the P3 is under-powered. For a 492cc, air cooled, 2 valve, pushrod engine, I say it is just about right for what it is. What else is there to compare it to?? I'm really enjoying my bike and may take it to my local dealer to have them ride it and see if all is well. | ||
| Ezblast |
How many flats out all together? | ||
| Awf_hand |
I went the book recommended 4.5 AT FIRST, but there was a bit more "whirring" coming from the lower left engine quadrant than there was before the procedure. After a test ride and while the engine was running, I adjusted a bit more and ended about one full turn out from the 24 in/lbs jam fit. This took the "whir" away. One full turn = 6 "flats". I wish I could replicate this clatter noise at the bench, but the only way that I can make it happen is under very light gain-throttle. I'll be seeing a friend of mine later next week and will ask for a ride on his P3. That may answer the question about whether my noise is normal or not. I'm not opposed to a trip to the mech, as our local HD/Buell shop has a very good rep. I'd been in there many times prev as I'd owned a Kawi (KLR 650), which is another line they carry. | ||
| Ezblast |
Sounds like slight detonation - try some Lucas Octane Boost - if that takes it away, then I'd adjust the timing very slightly - about 3 degrees - the space of a plug gaper at 040. EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"I'll be seeing a friend of mine later next week and will ask for a ride on his P3." Good idea! |
