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Berkshire
Posted on Monday, May 12, 2008 - 06:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If you're leaning WAY over and it feels like it's about to get loose, then yeah, you're pushing the limits of available traction (welcome to the dark side!). The only cures are stickier rubber, and/or a larger contact patch.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Monday, May 12, 2008 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Concur!
Did I mention that we run on stock sized MT75's with rear sets? High rear sets?
If you're running out of tire you need to learn to hang off the bike more to keep more usable tire on the ground.I know how far the racers are leaning over, past where stock pegs could take them, and they dont seem to be running out of tire.
I wont argue that a bigger tire would certainly be a confidence builder, have more of a contact patch, but you may pay for that in tire flex (not a real good feeling).

I will yield to the probability that your running faster than I probably ever will (but I dont pilot the racebike either).
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Styxnpicks
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 03:10 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm pushing the bike as far as my pegs and sprocket will let me right now. I hang my ass off the bike when I get serious. keeping up with my buddies on their spanking new 600cc sportbikes is a challenge. midcorner I get some nasty instabillity. its kinda like riding a bull. it'll wobble, shimmy around and buck a tad. I suspect its the stock donlop front I've been told I ride hard... lugging the blast is not an option. I need more motor at this point as well. hitting the rev limiter right before the the apex SUX
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 09:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

See if you can distribute your weight more to the back of the bike as well when cornering - I love the way the Viperstrykes make the handling more responsive the lower profile actually would allow less flex than the taller - even oversized - less wall - more stability - lol
EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, May 14, 2008 - 11:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

First: ditch the Dunlop before it ditches you! Running mismatched worn tires is a sure way to get instability. A new set of matched tires will make it feel like a different bike.
That said, other things to consider:
Stiffen the front suspension. $10 for spacers and oil, a little time and huge improvement. Since your running the low seat the rear may not need the shim for added preload.(also known as adjusting the SAG).
Add a fork brace: $100-$160.
Add the 3rd tie bar to the engine. $15 in parts.
Add a steering stabilizer. $50-$100 for the cheap one.
Ignition module and valve springs are all you need for 7500rpm (which is about 40mph in first).$300-$500. (You could also change to the taller XB12 primary gearing which would give longer legs through the turns. Would cut your power and given you'd need to change the engine sprocket,chain, primary cover and adjuster, it may not save much over the module and valve springs).
Old rubber (engine mount) isolators can hurt the bikes handling. A little ingenuity can stiffen up the front.
Tuber Buell tie bars can also be used instead of the stock Blast tie bars. Stiffer, but they cost 4 times as much.

I'm not sure how many mods you've made to your bike but these are some things to consider. They wont add much flash to your bike, but they will make it handle waaaay better.
Check ebay & Badweb classifieds for deals. I've bought most of the above parts from either source at substantial savings. (I've also paid full price for most too-2 bikes).
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Berkshire
Posted on Thursday, May 15, 2008 - 09:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

A 140/70 tire has the same sidewall height as a 120/80 tire:

120 * 0.8 = 96
140 * 0.7 = 98

OK, going by the numbers it's actually even taller by 2mm, so the extra stability isn't from having less wall, it's from having more spinning mass.

A 140/70 is less responsive than a 120/80 - you've got even more tire than before, but it's still spilling out from between those same skinny wheel flanges. It's most noticeable in rapid left/right transitions, like tire warmup swerving. Also, when the back end comes loose it's more of a jerky hop-hop-hop than a smooth skid.

The 2mm difference assumes you're mounting the tire on an appropriate width wheel, but on a Blast wheel it's much more than 2mm taller - that's why there is trouble with them rubbing the swingarm. When you squeeze the sides in it gets taller like the Himalayas.

In contrast, an XB wheel is exactly TWICE as wide as a Blast's, but the tire is only 1/3 wider.

---> 515 kits are on sale now! <---

I've heard great things about the SE-536 cams, but they're not cheap. Stock XB cams are good too - same as SE-551's, and you might find some cheap ones.

You can advance your base timing by rotating the ignition module - best done w/ an adjustable timing light.

An SE ignition module will let you use different advance curves and also up your rev limit, but you can't do too much without better valvesprings. I've been running +200 with XB cams and it hasn't blown up yet. There is also an aftermarket version of the SE module, and here in Thumper forum, Ruell is working on a Blast ignition - you might ask if it's ready yet.

I've got a 72-tooth rear sprocket coming, but I won't know whether it will work until I get my hands on it and try some mock-ups.

Works Performance sells dual-rate fork springs that fit the Blast. Also, they make a really nice high performance rear shock, but it's almost $1000. Seriously! For that much you could probably ebay a complete XB front end & wheels, and have enough left over for a few tanks of gas.
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Styxnpicks
Posted on Thursday, May 15, 2008 - 09:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

so how does a 100/80 130/80 pirelli diablo scooter set sound? gotta take this one step at a time
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, May 15, 2008 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

130 may be to large with the 80 hi profile.
EZ
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Styxnpicks
Posted on Thursday, May 15, 2008 - 01:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

id go with the 120/80 if I could find it but all I can find right now is the 130/80 and 140/70
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, May 15, 2008 - 01:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

140/70 with the 110/70 is ideal - do it as a set and enjoy!
EZ
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Dummkauf
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 12:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dunlop Tire question??

I am still running on the dunlop's that came with my Blast when it was purchased(used). The Dunlop's have one tred that runs straight all the way around the tire, and this appears to be getting woren down quite a bit and it getting close to having that center tred completely woren off. The side treds still look great so I'm guessing the former owner didn't do a lot of tight cornering with it.

So my question is how deep is that center tred on a brand new dunlop, and if it needs to be replaced what reommendations for tires would people have for my commuter/joy riding bike. Would it be smart to just stick with the Dunlop's or switch to something else?? Note that I am not doing any type of racing and most of my driving is commuting to work, however I do still like to take it out on the weekends and Blast around on the back roads

Also, I've noticed EZ recommending using 140/70 with the 110/70, what exactly is the advantage to running different sized tires??

(Message edited by dummkauf on May 16, 2008)
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 12:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Anything but the stock Dunlop would be a far better choice(except the Kenda as well) - seriously, and sine you say they came with the bike - buy a new set of rubber front and rear - play it safe and enjoy far superior rubber.
EZ
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Kustomklassix
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have been running the Cheng Shin Barracudas since last spring, and so far they have been great! They warm up after a few blocks and are great in the rain. Also, they have a great price, wear down quite slowly, and you get a little wider on the rear!

Here is a link I found quick. They are not who I bought mine from, but they are the same size and price. I am running the 100/90V16 on the front (I am running the 90 on the front hoping it will last a few extra miles?) and the 130/90V16 on the rear. If I recall, there are a couple other sizes as well, just not on this site. Also, if anyone wanted to know, the 130 fit without any swingarm mods, and room to spare (1/4in to 3/8in gap?)

Hope this helps!
http://www.tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRES/Cheng%20 Shin/Cheng_Shin_C6000_Baracuda.htm
Front - http://www.motorcycleproshop.com/detail.asp?produc t_id=C600004
Rear - http://www.motorcycleproshop.com/detail.asp?produc t_id=C6000-11
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

How many miles have you had to put on yours before swapping out to a new rear?
EZ
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Dummkauf
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 12:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks EZ, I've heard that running non-matching tire's can lead to some stability problems so I was planning on changing them both if I'm switching from the Dunlop's just to be safe : )

Thanks for the tip Kustomklassix, I think i'll give those a shot and see how they work.

Also, could anyone shed some light on why it costs about $70 a tire to mount and balance a motorcycle tire if I bring in just the tire and wheel, but if this were my car it would cost $10-$15? Not to mention if it were my car they would mount and balance them for free if I buy the tires from the shop, but this isn't that case for bike's either?

Right now I'm debating just getting a static balancer and some spoons and doing it myself, but I just find the pricing on this very odd.
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Reuel
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 12:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They're ripping you off. I just got my tire mounted and balanced for $10. It was at a hole-in-the-wall sportbike place that was really hard to find, but had dozens of bikes in various stages of repair. The highest I saw it was $35, but most places around here charge $25. You just have to shop around.

I ran the Dunlop on my front until it wore out, through Pirelli and Avon rear tires. I then got an Avon front to go with the Avon rear. They stopped making the AM51/AM52 tires that I used, so the rear is now an AM26. Just changed the front to a Pirelli. Once I use up my other AM26, I'll be switching to Pirelli permanently. They're cheap, sticky, and do well in rain.

So, after 32K+, my tires matched twice. I scrape pegs all the time. Aside from that, and the occasional getting run off the road by someone who implied he's a rider, I've kept the rubber down without a problem.
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 02:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah - but old rubber is dangerous - doesn't matter the brand. Yours isn't old - just well used;0)
EZ
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 11:21 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

KustomKlassix: I think you meant a 130/ 80 v16.
Concur with the above. If you want mileage try the Avons, you want sticky, go with the Pirelli's.
The bigger 140 and 130 sized tires give the bike a more stable feeling.
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Uggy76
Posted on Friday, May 16, 2008 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I bought a set of Pirelli MT75's. Had them balanced and mounted. They feel great and low to mid speed handling is much improved. There is a bit of a problem though.
With the stock(worn out) Dunlop's, the bike would get slightly unstable at 70mph and more so at higher speeds. I figured this was due to the tires and possibly a balance issue. Well, when I took the wheels off I noticed the rear wheel bearings were fried(at 4K miles?!). I replaced those, then I took the bike out today with the Pirelli's. it is more stable up to 60 but I cant get to 70 without the bike shaking terribly.
I checked everything over that I worked on and it's solid. I don't know what the problem could be. Any suggestions?
Mind you, I don't know what a motorcycle should feel like at high speed. My 2 wheel experience is limited to dirt bikes and Honda Elite's. But it seems worse with the new tires as I cant even get to 70 anymore. That can't be right.

(Message edited by uggy76 on May 16, 2008)

(Message edited by uggy76 on May 16, 2008)
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, May 17, 2008 - 12:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shaking is bad. The Pirelli's are good to 100mph+.
Check tire pressures.
Check all your work. Something is very amiss if its shaking at all.
Did you put all the spacers back? Is the brake caliper aligned in the swingarm tab? Did you do anything else except remove the wheels?
Did you torque the axle nuts to spec? I'd check the bearings again. If you didnt seat the bearings then they may have come loose.
Are the forks tight?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, May 17, 2008 - 12:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You may have to take the wheels off, put the axles through the wheels, add enough spacers and torque it down. See if it wobbles then. You can also check the balance too and check for a bent wheel.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Saturday, May 17, 2008 - 12:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Also, check all your engine mounts.
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Ezblast
Posted on Saturday, May 17, 2008 - 12:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yes - could definitely be your front Isolator. Inspect for crack or tears -
EZ
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Kustomklassix
Posted on Saturday, May 17, 2008 - 02:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Erik - HA! You are of course correct. I was at school when I posted that so I went off of the site(?). I just went out and looked, and yuppers it is a 130/80V16 And also, I concur. Since installing the 130 the Blast feels ALOT better.

Ed - Um, I live in ND so I really don't get much time to ride. LoL. As of this point I believe I have put ~1300-1600 miles on them?? So far the rear still has near like-new tread depth according to my memory of when I put them on?

Uggy - These Cheng's are rock solid at 98mph (GPS indicated!)
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Uggy76
Posted on Saturday, May 17, 2008 - 01:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just got done taking everything apart and checking it. I spun the front wheel off the bike and sure enough, it has a kink in it.
I was thinking, "Shouldn't the high speed balance indicate something like that?" Of course!! THATS why there is over 2oz. of weight on the front wheel. While it doesn't seem too bad, its there. I would assume this is the reason for the high speed instability.................................
Anyone have a good front wheel for sale?
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Twisty_mcwrister
Posted on Saturday, May 17, 2008 - 11:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

hey guys,

i'm new to the forum and just got my license and a 2001 blast on 5/15/08 ! iv put about 100 miles on it and it seems i have a warped /bent front rotor. the front brake pulses under any kind of braking.

anybody know where i can get a new front rotor. i can only seem to find used ones.

i'm guessing a buell dealer but the closest one is 30 miles away. thats too far and too fast to ride a bent/warped rotor in my book.
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Dummkauf
Posted on Sunday, May 18, 2008 - 12:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gearheaderiko or Kustomklassix I'm assuming what you both actually meant was 130/80V17 and NOT 130/80V16 or 130/90V16, since I am not seeing any 130's with a V16?? Just trying to clarify before I purchase a couple new tires. Although doesn't my Blast require the V16's?

What is the widest tire that can be put on the rear of the blast without modifying the swingarm or anything else. Ez was recommending a 140, would a 150 or 160 fit or is that just getting too big??

Also, just to clarify since I normally didn't pay much attention to tires prior to buying my bike, a 130/80 v17 would translate as:
130 = Tire Width
80 = aspect ratio, or distance between where the rubber meets the rim and ground
v = speed rating
17 = Rim diameter
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Ezblast
Posted on Sunday, May 18, 2008 - 12:32 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

130/80/16 -


Did you check your front isolator for cracks/tears?

EZ
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Kustomklassix
Posted on Sunday, May 18, 2008 - 03:29 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Oh...the tire is out there...and she be good...
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Dummkauf
Posted on Sunday, May 18, 2008 - 09:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ok, does anyone have any experience with Pirelli's Sport Demon's??

I was looking at the various Pirelli tires and noticed that these only come in 130/90V16 & 150/80V16 for the rears.

Would the 150/80v16 Rear with the 120/80V16 front be a good combination or am I getting too large here? If the rule of wider tire's = more stability and better cornering I'd like to go larger however I don't want to over do it either : )

http://www.tiresunlimited.com/ALL%20TIRES/Pirelli/ Pirelli_sport_demon.htm
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