| Author | Message | ||
     Swampy |
Reuel, They are from a 1997 Ford F150 4X4 4.6 V8. (Ha, Ha, wiring diagram.......right....  you are the expert I'm just a dummy, ask my wife) And to my fellow Blasters...... I am traveling (By car) to just Southwest of Denver tomorrow. I won't get back till next Wednesday. I will post up if I get the chance. I am chaperoning my youngest sons senior class trip. I am really tore up about it as the mushrooms are just coming on real strong around here and I have been spending alot of time wandering around in the woods and will miss the peak of the season. I am still looking for an engine for the Big Kids Blast. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
LMAO! | ||
| Ezblast |
check dates on the isolator packages - if replacing your front isolator - both 2007 dates where bad for me, one was cracked right out of the package with no installation! the 2008s though, assembled and have had no problems! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on May 14, 2008) | ||
| Naustin |
My dealer ordered the isolator, so hopefully, I'll get a new one.... They told me they woudl have to order a 170 main jet too. I was like, WTF? I called the independant shop where I got my tires on my S3t done and he sold me a slightly used jet for $2.00. Had a whole little plastic bin full of various jets all neatly sorted. (Message edited by naustin on May 14, 2008) | ||
| Naustin |
Got the carb jetted last night, easy... Afterward I noticed the belt has major stone damage and will need to be replaced. UG. Got a question: Can I use a jack under the stock muffler to support the engine while I replace the front isolator, or do I really need to pull the muffler and support the engine directly. Its not a big deal I guess... Also, can I support the back of the bike an just pull the shock mount to drop the swing arm enough to replace the belt, or should I just go ahead and pull the rear wheel as per the manual? | ||
| Ezblast |
Don't bother - you can use the stock muffler to jack up the bike - its made to - thats why its a boat anchor. Belt replacement is ultra easy - remove covers - lol - put belt on front pully and rest on very outer edge of rear pully teeth, roll bike backwards a few feet - belt will snap onto pully, and settle in - your done - no wheel removal nescesary. EZ | ||
| Naustin |
Nice. That's what I was hoping. I'm so glad I have those rear-sets on the bike. I took the passenger pegs off b/c I don't what my wife giving rides anyway, and I don't think they'll be going back on ever... Just ordered the belt from Andy @ Appleton, in stock and he's going to overnight it to me. Hopefully the isolator I ordered Monday will show up this weekend too... We bought the blast back and my wife has only gotten to ride it 3 or 4 times because I started to look it over closely and found all this stuff messed up. I mistakely assumed it would be in the same condition I left it in if no one had touched it. They said it only got ridden once about 100 miles since I traded it in -- must have been a hard ride.... OH, and either the sidestand or the neutral switch is acting up too... | ||
| Ezblast |
Disable the side stand, and flip the center diode for neutral switch. With rearsets you only have to remove 1 bolt. EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Don't forget to get a new giant washer and middle nut as well - lol EZ | ||
| Mikedog |
Hey guys, it's been a while but it's good to see many of the same names. I done did it this time... While replacing my clutch cable (something I have done successfully in the past...) I dropped the brass-looking piece that connects the cable to the clutch.  Yup, into the transmission.  Nope, couldn't fish it out. I figure now there's nothing left to do but take the cover off and get it out. I was just hoping for any advice before I undertook this, since I've never messed around in there before beyond replacing clutch cables. (ask me how they've broken if you want a laugh) Here comes the stupid question: can I simply take off the cover, tilt the bike, and hope it falls out? I drained the fluid. Is it likely I'll just see it? Please advise. Thanks in advance. | ||
| Maximum |
I did the same thing a couple weeks ago. I thought that I would have to take the entire cover off too...but before I went to all that trouble I decided to shape (hook) a metal hanger. I was able to slide the piece closer to me, then reach it with my fingers. | ||
| Reuel |
Fortunately for me, a few months before I did the same thing, my wife picked up one of those grabby things that has a button at one end and 4 claws at the other end. I leaned the bike way over to the left until it fell close enough for me to see it, then I stuck that bugger in there and grabbed it. | ||
| Mikedog |
I think it went over to the left, down the slight slope, and out of range. Is that possible? Does that screw me even worse? I've even gone so far as to tip the bike down to the floor and shake it, and nada. It's raining here all day so I won't be able to open her up anyway, so I'll just hang out and collect any advice that comes my way for now. Thanks for the replies so far. It's nice to know I'm not the only one who has done this. I'm better with websites than Buells so if you have any questions about that, hit me up.  | ||
| Reuel |
Did you try tipping it upside down?  | ||
| Ezblast |
The coat hanger trick is the ticket - go fishing. EZ | ||
| Mikedog |
Will do. (hanger, not upside down...)  | ||
| Reuel |
I had to post this somewhere less obscure. Someone mentioned a horn that claims to be the loudest motorcycle horn on the planet. At 139 dB, I had to get one. Total cost was $44.94. Hardware to install it was $0.96. I used a piece from a TV wall mount. I destroyed 3 Dremel discs, and wore down 3 more. At first, it was really quiet, then I realized that I wired it backward. I switched the wires, and heard it echo off houses in my neighborhood. Not bad for being in my garage with the door open. In a nutshell: LOUD!!! It's the best $45 I've spent all week! It's significantly louder than car horns. Being 4.5" x 4.5" x 3", finding a mounting place might be an issue. Mine is where the airbox used to be, just below the ignition coil.   It's the first one listed in Bikerhiway Horns (Message edited by reuel on May 16, 2008) | ||
| Mikedog |
They should pay you commission because I think you just got them a customer. Their sound link is very convincing. If I wailed on that in traffic, the cop would think it was the Lincoln behind me.  | ||
| Zane |
I have GOT to get me one of those!!! | ||
| Styxnpicks |
thats where my oil cooler is going | ||
| Swampy |
I'm in Breckenridge, CO. Right now, I'm a little overwhelmed, I have never seen mountains before. | ||
| Ezblast |
The Grand Canyon is pretty awesome also - and you are in the hood - just a few hundred miles away - lol - the weather where you are now though is excellent! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Mikedog: Pulling the cover isnt that big of a deal, if you have too. Reuel: I cant tell if you mounted it off the coil bracket, but if you did, that bracket isnt that sturdy. (Although Jprovo also mounted his off the coil bracket, I'll ask him if his has fallen off yet) | ||
| Reuel |
The other end of the bracket goes in the hole that used to hold that scoop part on. The horn isn't heavy, so hopefully it'll be alright. | ||
| Kustomklassix |
LoL, yup. One of those horns is going on my bike  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Talked to Jprovo today and he says his horn hasnt fallen of yet. You should be safe! Mine broke with the addition of a 'choke' cable. It didnt last very long. | ||
| Ezblast |
Hey Erik - is James racing any more - need a rider? Ed | ||
| Mikedog |
Thanks all who answered me. I have another question now that's more radical. I searched for this info on the site already and didn't find it, so forgive me if it's somewhere and I missed it. Hypothetically, if I were to chop the rear of the blast frame (side circled in red), is this section removable or do I have to cut it off? All I want to retain is the green circled part (including shock mount), and the swingarm. I haven't disassembled enough to actually see in there for myself. The tubing part is easy to remove, I have found. I can do the cutting and I have someone who can do the welding for whatever I decide to do. From what I have seen from other people's projects, it seems the structural integrity of the frame/swingarm will be the same without that chunk of metal.  Thanks. | ||
| Kustomklassix |
Mike - PFF!! YOU DON'T NEED THAT CRAP, CHOP IT OFF!! MWUAHAHAHAHA!! Seriously though, as long as you make a new subframe big enough to house your battery and electronics you should be fine. And no, it doesn't un-bolt. Sadly you will have to break out the torch or the grinder and CUT IT OFF!  LoL. Xb9rski has already completely converted a Blast's a$$ as can be seen below! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/disc us.cgi?pg=prev&topic=20164&page=95829 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/disc us.cgi?pg=prev&topic=20164&page=98990 http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/disc us.cgi?pg=prev&topic=20164&page=100262 I hope that helps!  | ||
| Mikedog |
Actually that really does help. Thanks!  |
