Author |
Message |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, October 12, 2007 - 10:43 am: |
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I am also wondering if the engine alignment couldn't be adjusted to get the belt more centered on the pulley. Sounds like taking the long way round when spacing the sprocket is much easier than machining the front pulley (which can/has been done for custom applications). |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, December 03, 2007 - 10:40 am: |
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What should I do about grease leaking from a wheel bearing? GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Swampy
| Posted on Monday, December 03, 2007 - 12:04 pm: |
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I would say the seal is not holding and it is time to replace the bearing. The other option is to replace it after it strands you someplace inconvenient. |
Jlnance
| Posted on Monday, December 03, 2007 - 01:11 pm: |
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EZ - I've done some bearing research because the Ulys seem to have rear wheel bearing problems. If you replace the bearing, you can get a much better bearing than OEM, for less than HD will charge you for one. Here is where I bought mine: http://web.applied.com/ I don't know the number for the Blast bearing, does anyone have it? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, December 03, 2007 - 03:56 pm: |
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Arg! |
Buellistic
| Posted on Monday, December 03, 2007 - 07:37 pm: |
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Local bearing supplies have any bearing or can get you any bearing "AND" if you want a better bearing all you have to do is ask for a better bearing with or with out seals!!! |
Erslincoln
| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 05:10 pm: |
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Having trouble figuring out where to post, so hopefully a mod will trip over this and throw it in the right place. I would like to know if anyone's painted Blast wheels yet, and if so, what was involved - costs, etc... thanks, and my bad.... this forum's bizarre. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 05:16 pm: |
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Seems you picked the right place - I'd like to know also. EZ |
Berkshire
| Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2008 - 01:25 am: |
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yep, painted the back one last tire-change:
old pics - I have done the front one now too (a bigger improvement, since it's more visible). I did a quickie polish job on the machined lip and mounted the new tire. Then I stuck the axle thru and hung the wheel up in a tree for easy access and less backache. After attempting to polish out the fresh tire-tool scratches , I masked off the machined lips. I also masked the valve stem and the inner bearing race that faces the spacer - on the rear I masked the whole bearing and surrounding machined surface, but the way I did the front was better. There is a pic posted somewhere here of a yellow Blast with polished lip/red painted wheels. I just used cheap spray paint - black primer, allow to cure, soapy scrub with scotchbrite pad, rinse, blow-gun dry. After 2nd coat of primer, scrub softer with worn pad. Then 2 coats of gloss black, with cloth wash/polish in between. |
Berkshire
| Posted on Thursday, January 24, 2008 - 01:34 am: |
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...also removed sprocket and rotor and masked off the machined bosses. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, February 06, 2008 - 12:48 pm: |
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Hey guys - what is the SS Braided front brake line stock number for a 2000 Blast - trying to help out at another forum while at work. EZ |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, February 06, 2008 - 03:17 pm: |
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H0531.B |
Totolandman
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2008 - 07:57 pm: |
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GALFER has a front SS Brakeline Kit for the Blast! Here is the part number: Blast 2000-2008 FK003D333. I spoke with their tech Robert today and I sent him a .GIF image of the rear brake line (part hard line/part rubber line) assembly along with the stock part number listing from Buell. Robert from Galfer called back within 1 hours from my email to Galfer and stated that they will make a rear SS brake line for the Blast and would look to provide a price break as well to those interested. The great news is that he said that the rear stock brake switch would go away but they have a solution that include the necessary wiring to keep the brake light functioning. I have been without my ride in the shop since last Nov. I NEED HELP help with someone measuring the center to center of each Banjo bolt following all the lines and the curves to get an accurate measurement in total length. Also if someone could provide the thread pitch on the caliper brake and master cylinder bolts he will make a prototype this week! I just received my front SS brake line kit from Galfer last Friday! If I can get help with this soon they will have a front and rear complete SS brakeline solution for the Blast! Cheers, totolandman (Message edited by gearheaderiko on April 07, 2008) (Message edited by totolandman on April 10, 2008) |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, April 07, 2008 - 09:39 pm: |
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All the bolts are the same-front line and rear line. The Blast uses 2 different styles of bolts depending on year, but all 4 are the same. Try mounting that front line on the rear. I bet it fits! Rearsets may use a shorter line, but since its all flexible, you can make do to swap back and forth. Yframe-rearset-Yframe Appx. 31 inches, same as the front! (Message edited by gearheaderiko on April 07, 2008) |
Totolandman
| Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2008 - 10:17 pm: |
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Can anyone help! I need to know the thread pitch on the Banjo bolts for the rear caliper and master cylinder! Erik gave me the length of the rear and if I can provide Galfer the thread pitch they will be able to produce a matching rear SS brake line with the integrated wiring for connection to the rear brake light! The banjo bolt part number is: H0405.9B for both the master cylinder and the caliper. Cheers, Robb (Message edited by gearheaderiko on April 09, 2008) |
Totolandman
| Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2008 - 10:22 pm: |
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Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, April 08, 2008 - 10:56 pm: |
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Same as the front. EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 01:03 am: |
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Concur! "The Blast uses 2 different styles of bolts depending on year, but all 4 are the same." If they the info for the front, then they have it for the back! Barring using a different angle for the fittings, all they need is to add the switch to a front line. {Stock rubber lines use 2 angle fittings. Stock steel braided uses 1 straight fitting and 1 angle. I dont know what the Galfer uses.} |
Totolandman
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 09:15 am: |
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Erik, But he is asking for the thread pitch and is there no way to get that information from an HD dealer. The part number is H0405.9B. Cheers, totolandman |
Totolandman
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 03:15 pm: |
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Well here it is the approved drawing for the 2000-08 Buell Blast Galfer rear SS brake line! Hats off to Robert from Galfer who worked with me on this one! Now Galfer has both front and rear braided SS brake lines for the Blastards! Any input of comments on the proposed design would be greatly appreciated! This design has the Banjo bolt with pressure switch built into it. This simplifies the rear brake by eliminating the tee and pressure switch and creating a single brake line system. Cheers, totolandman} |
Totolandman
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 03:16 pm: |
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Gbaz
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 03:53 pm: |
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let us know how much they will cost ide like one for the front and the rear lol |
Totolandman
| Posted on Wednesday, April 09, 2008 - 03:57 pm: |
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Front was around $45. I will let you know how much the rear ends up! |
Totolandman
| Posted on Thursday, April 10, 2008 - 02:38 pm: |
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Galfer has communicated that the place to source both the front and rear braided SS brake lines from is www.cyclebrakes.com. Their phone number is 1-805-671-5010 and ask for Melissa. The front brake line (Blast 2000-2008 FK003D333) is $55.00 and the rear brake line is $74.00 (Blast 2000-2008 FK003D333R) of which $19.00 is for the pressure switch for the rear brake light. Cool thing is you can request for different colors for the SS line covers to further customize your ride! Once my ride is done I will post the results and photos as well. Cheers, Robb (Message edited by totolandman on April 10, 2008) (Message edited by totolandman on April 10, 2008) |
Berkshire
| Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 01:03 am: |
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Regarding the rear brake light switch, has anyone tried using an XB switch? It takes the place of the banjo bolt at the master cylinder end - clean & simple setup IMO. (it looks like the drawing above shows a similar setup) Has anyone tried using a braided XB rear brake line? (Message edited by berkshire on April 13, 2008) |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, April 13, 2008 - 02:23 am: |
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Sounds like a good idea! EZ |
Styxnpicks
| Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 04:58 pm: |
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alright guys, i've put it off long enuff, I NEED new tires. I have 7000mi on the stock dunlop front and the mt75 pirelli rear is almost worn slick in the center... i had aset of avon am63's in stock sizes on order but cancled after waiting a month. I'm thinking about ordering pirelli's diablo scooter tire in 100/80 or 110/70 front and 130/80 or 140/70.... anyone used these yet? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 07:28 pm: |
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Gbaz is: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/297470.html?1210085012 My opinion is use a stock size front (100/80) and no bigger than the 130/80 rear. If you're riding that hard the bigger tires may flex too much and according to Berkshires current profile measuring you may actually wind up with less contact patch (OMG I said 'contact patch') with the bigger tires. My opinion and again we race on Pirelli MT75's (stock sizes). How much difference is actually between the oversize scooter Diablo's and the MT75's I do not really know. (Message edited by GearheadErikO on May 10, 2008) |
Styxnpicks
| Posted on Saturday, May 10, 2008 - 08:31 pm: |
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I really need to pick the right tires. right now I feel like I'm gonna low side the blast mid corner on a mt75 rear. its sticky but at the edge is feels like just a little bit more and its gone |
Berkshire
| Posted on Monday, May 12, 2008 - 06:38 am: |
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That flat part down the middle is screwing you up! I've noticed it makes a BIG difference in how the bike feels. The closer the tire gets to the end of it's life, the worse it gets. On moderate corners you're still mostly riding on the flat part, and when you're leaned pretty far over you're on the good part of the tire... ...but in between, you're teeter-tottering on that relatively sharp boundary between the middle & outer part of the tire, and that ain't a warm fuzzy place to be! |