| Author | Message | ||
     Berkshire |
sounds like the "wrenching effect" thing. My bike has a "black box" that appears to be wired in between the speed sensor and the wiring harness. I'm guessing that this was added when the '00 pulley recall was done, to re-calibrate the speedometer for the different drive ratio. If that's the case, then bypassing the black box would make the speedo read correctly for the smaller pulley. I like the better acceleration of the larger pulley, but it WOULD be cool to have a spare rear wheel with the smaller pulley on it (plus tire, rotor and belt, of course!), to swap over for long trips. | ||
| Berkshire |
from Karata: BIG TWIN GATES HTD POLYCHAIN REAR BELTS Part # 21021 Description 1.125" X 136 TEETH 14. 0 MM Price 168.00 SPORTSTER GATES HTD POLYCHAIN REAR BELTS Part # 21015 Description 1.125" X 136 TEETH 14. 0 MM Price 168.00 The longest drive belt shown is 136 tooth. Even if there was a 139-tooth belt, a custom-made wider front pulley would be needed. It could be used with a stock rear pulley by eliminating the plastic guard and spacing the pulley over very close to the swingarm. If the front pulley were made smaller (less teeth) as well, that should take care of the shorter 136-tooth belt length, and also increase torque to the wheel. Unfortunately it would also cut down on top speed, though the speedometer would incorrectly show 96. To keep the original top speed and speedometer accuracy, a custom-made smaller rear pulley would be needed. Another option would be to obtain a pre-recall rear pulley and speedometer. (unless later models also have the recalibration module?) I think a 1-1/8" pulley would work on the front if 1/8" of the extra width were to be offset toward the inside (toward case) and the remaining 1/4" added to the outside. My bike has a little over 1/16" clearance between the pulley and the case. That part of the case seems to be a vital, strength-wise, so I wouldn't machine it. It looks like it would be better to decrease the clearance down to about 2 hairs, and make the lip on the edge of the pulley about 1/16" thinner. On the back, there should be enough room to move the pulley over 3/8" - that's 1/4" to match the extra 1/4" on the outboard side of the front pulley, plus an extra 1/8" to put the edge of the belt ON the pulley, instead of having it hang off the edge. The belt is $168 Cost of pre-recall rear pulley? Probably cheap, IF you can find one! Cost of custom size/offset front pulley? Way more than I got! But it should be possible to do this, if your pockets are deep enough and you're making enough torque to break belts. | ||
| Ezblast |
Recall pully NG! GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Jmynes |
If you're gonna be making pulleys anyway, just make a front as described AND a big beefy billet rear pulley of the desired diameter. Prolly be easier to do a chain drive swap. Oh, sorry. Are chains considered "thinking outside the box" these days? (Message edited by jmynes on June 27, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
No, however, unless your racing - they are not as usefull as a belt - for many reasons. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jmynes |
Ahem. Chains were 'state of the art' for many years. They can handle WAY more than 60ish hp, and are variable length by their very nature. Why putz around with a limited selection of pulley sizes, trying to match it up to a given belt length? Just pick your ratio and put some sprockets on, then wrap a chain around and cut it to length. Oversimplified, I'm sure, but if I was looking for different gearing, I wouldn't base that decision around a fixed belt length. Yeah, chain maintenance is messy and a PITA, but we seem to have managed for many years prior to belts. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Jmynes: I dont really consider chains 'state of the art'. I've ridden many miles on a chain and I'll take a belt any day over the chain, as EZ said "for many reasons", even if it costs much more initially. Berki: Cutting the front pulley to offset is easier and cheaper than you think! I've done it.The unique Blast rear pulley is always the big problem. There is a 139 tooth belt in a 1" size. A little closer to the desired goal of a wider belt. And since the advent of all the different chopper makers out there and the different belt widths and lengths that are available, matching up belts isnt that big a problem anymore. FWIW: Some people prefer chains, some belts, some shaft drive. This thread is a discussion of different belt drive possibilities. If you prefer a chain drive, there is a thread for that too! | ||
| Berkshire |
Changing the primary drive ratio would be another way to re-gear for higher speeds. The XB is listed as 1.500:1 (57/38), while the Blast is 1.676 (57/34). I *think* that means the Blast has a smaller front sprocket. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on July 14, 2006) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
XB-12 has the taller gearing. The XB9 is the same as the Blast. The Uly might also have the XB9/Blast gearing as it is an offroad bike (dont know). The Blast/XB9 has a smaller front sprocket. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on July 14, 2006) | ||
| Buellistic |
BLAST 34T XB12 38T These are MOTOR SPROCKET !!! (Message edited by buellistic on July 14, 2006) | ||
| Naustin |
Holy Brain Storm, Batman. Think about this - We've been experimenting with different shocks from other bikes such as the Honda 919 and there are a couple of other possibilities too. The advantage is more ride height in the rear to keep your can from dragging, and preload adjustability. The disadvantage is that this changes the rear end geometry and the belt ends up being a bit slack. BUT - what if you combine a new shock with a different front pulley?! The shock would raise the rear end, putting slack in the stock belt, and the extra 1 or 2 teeth on the front pulley would take up the slack that was created. Now you've got a new shock, more ride height, and you've re-geared for more top speed - AND you've still got a stock belt with the proper tension... Combine that with a 90 series front tire to offset the change to the steering geometry.... I think my brain stem is dripping.... nick (Message edited by naustin on July 14, 2006) | ||
| Cobalt60 |
Is the 919 shock a bolt on replacement? Is a two tooth larger front available? I'd keep the stock front tire and let the steering get a little quicker. | ||
| Naustin |
No on both questions - Unfortunatly.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
More top speed and less rake.. hmmm sounds like a bad idea unless you're racing (at least that way an ambulance is nearby)! Seriously, a 90 series tire isnt going to make up for 2+ inches of added rear ride height. The stock shock is shimmable for extra preload. It also seems that a lot of Blast accidents happen because the front tire (or front end) gives out. Jacking up the rear without any front fork modification is asking for trouble on the street (even then its suspect). However, a larger front pulley is easily machinable down to the Blast size. You can use a smaller muffler or none at all for added ground clearance. Still not sure why you'd want to give up low end power for top speed on a street blast (unless you like tickets). The easiest way for higher top speed and without losing low end is to upgrade your head, throw in some B50's (or not) and let it redline to 7500rpm! PS What happened to the 10.88 inch shock you found? | ||
| Berkshire |
BLAST 34T XB12 38T These are MOTOR SPROCKET !!! yes - I should've put my previous post in the TKV/Engine/Primary Drive thread, but since we were already talking about gearing in here... Still not sure why you'd want to give up low end power for top speed on a street blast (unless you like tickets). The easiest way for higher top speed and without losing low end is to upgrade your head, throw in some B50's (or not) and let it redline to 7500rpm! Several reasons - for stock or with bolt-on mods, it might be nice to see how fast a bike would go if it wasn't bumping into the rev limit. For freeway commuting, it would be like having a 6th gear - sure, the bike WILL run all day at 5400 rpm, but if you had the gear, wouldn't it be nicer to run at 4800? ...but I was really thinking more in hypothetical terms, like modifications needed to go with a "more powerful" motor. The issue of breaking drive belts is mentioned above, which implies that there are Blasts out there that could benefit from taller primary gearing. With stock gearing, 7500rpm should let you go about 110 mph. That IS fast, but if I ever spend the time & money to get 50+ hp out of my Blast, I'll want to see a little more than that. one more reason: just think how cool it would be to blubber along pushing a tall gear at low rpm's on a bored&stroked torque monster!  | ||
| Naustin |
The 10.88 inch shock is from a V-Star 650. It has ends similar to the 919 shock, in that they are both the right style, but one would need to be narrowed. It has 3.9 inches of travel and preload adjustment. Being exactly 1/2 inch longer than the stock shock, it would have yielded roughly 1 inch of increased ride height. I just found out about 5 minutes ago however from a member on a V-Star forum that the stock spring rate on this bike is only 767 lb/in. From the V-Star Forum: According to my manual, the rear spring rate for theXVS650A is: 137 N/mm. If my caculator conversion is correct, that is 767.2 lb/in. The information we have is that the blast's spring is 900 lbs. Though I don't know if that has ever been confirmed? I just want better 2-up capability and and extra 1/2 - 3/4 inch in my rear end to keep the blast from dragging ass on the pavement. It looks wrong to me. And I have yet to FIND a smaller muffler, or I would have already done that! As far as the instability argument - A blast has been tested in excess of 100mph with a similar rear ride height increase and a 90 series front tire to no ill affect.} | ||
| Buellistic |
Berkshire: Due to the electronic speedomer, the engine sprocket is the only place to play with gearing now ... There are after market suppliers for motor sprockets ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Buellistic: There is aftermarket stuff available to recalibrate the speedo, but I dont really consider an accurate speedo a necessity. Do you have the rear shock spring rate? (I'd heard it was 600lbs-not verified though). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Naustin: Your idea has merit, but to jack up the rear like that and do nothing to the front is a bad idea. If the V Star 650 uses twin shocks it probably wont work. Even though you could swap the spring, the dampening may not be enough. If it uses a single shock it might be a good bet. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Naustin: As far as the 919 set up being 'tested'. Lets give ralph the benefit of a doubt and say he is an experienced rider and racer. That should mean he's more than capable of dealing with the added turn in of the new angle and weight distribution, along with the squirliness of running a 90 series front tire.He also stated that it was for a heavy rider (250lbs or more) only. Not to mention its like when you were a kid and said "I meant to do that" when you screw up. You're not likely to get a straight answer from him if he did. Buellistic and 17Blast both did it right. Raise the front and raise the rear staying closer to the original geometry (though 17Blasts' is definitely experimental). 1 inch at the rear shock is about 4 inches at the axle line (or 1:4 simply put, but only an approximation). Adding a 1" preload spacer to the front and 1/4" preload spacer to the rear will yield nice results without being bone jarring. It'd be a place to start without a lot of expensive fabrication or parts buying. You could also build a bracket and jack the stock shock up a little. The bub looks pretty slender, I cant believe you're scraping it. Harley mufflers give better ground clearance. Let us know if you find out anything more about the V-Star 650 shock. | ||
| Cobalt60 |
For freeway commuting, it would be like having a 6th gear - sure, the bike WILL run all day at 5400 rpm, but if you had the gear, wouldn't it be nicer to run at 4800? That's what I'd like. First gear is very very low. On the commute at 70 the blast is turning more rpms than it needs to. (Message edited by cobalt60 on July 15, 2006) | ||
| Buellistic |
Gearheaderiko: No INFO on spring rate ... "i" weight 250 lbs. and the one inch spring spacer(PVC80) works for me ... PVC80 for spacers ... 2 inche spacer(PVC80) each front fork leg and SE HEAVY FORK OIL ... In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on July 16, 2006) Go half of this if you are around 250 lbs - lol - my suspension is quite stiff at that - half Laf..s - I retested it against a stock shock when I sent the Works shock in for rework - the stocky is spongy under me compared to either the shimmed or Works shock which shows great in-city aplomb when it deals with potholes and crack/bumps, smooth - they warranted the problem and they didn't have to - I'd had it for almost two years - I routed it differently - looks more promising this way - EZ (Message edited by ezblast on May 05, 2008) | ||
| Naustin |
Gear - THe v-star setup is a mono-shock setup and the stock spring rate is 760 lb/in. What we need is independant confirmation of the Blast's stock spring rate. There is a post on BWB in the archive stateing that the spring rate is 900 lbs/in. But, that's just one post. The person said that's what Works had reported. What else do you want to know about the v-star shock? The bub drags because it isn't centered under the bike. It is offset to the left side of the bike. It it were centered, it probably wouldn't drag. I'm looking to do something else with my exhaust anyway. I might get a used V&H header and graft something on to it, someday. Haveing some extra clearance would open up a lot more options. I don't mind jacking up both ends of the bike if that's what I have to do. I'd just raise the rear slightly more than the front so the bike looks level with a rider on board. | ||
| Buellistic |
What about an XB rear shock ??? | ||
| Naustin |
The blast shock is 10.38 inches long. An XB shock is something like 15 inches long. | ||
| Berkshire |
http://www.hypercoils.com/PDF/13.pdf There's nothing there about belts, pulleys, chains, or sprockets... but there ARE a variety of spring rates listed for 2" I.D. springs, in 4", 5", and 6" free lengths. Posted by Court in another thread: ...since you'll need accurate data in real time, your Buell dealer has a hotline to Buell Tech Services. It is these people job to know. Ask you dealer to contact tech services and confirm anything that is in doubt. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/20164/211318.html?1152287009 That sounds to me like an excellent way to find the OEM spring rate and free length. Don't we have a "rear shock & spring" thread somewhere? | ||
| Buellistic |
Honda 919 rear shock ??? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Berki: Yes its called suspension mods or were you being facetious? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Naustin: I dont know any more about the V Star 650 shock than you, you perhaps know more. I did search ebay awhile for one, but gave up as the few that came up didnt have compression and rebound adjustments, just preload. I'd like to apologize if my 919 comments seemed discouraging. Oftentimes while trying to solve one problem we unexpectedly find an answer to a different one. So I definitely encourage creative thinking. I just get a little panicked when I hear someone is thinking about trying something that "may cause death or serious injury" without fully exploring it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Cobalt and Berki: We've thought about using the XB12 ratio primary drive on the raceBlast because we can use the top speed and lightweight race parts are available. I never considered the Blast really revving that high at 70-80 mph and besides it would have a tough time pushing that with taller gearing. I wouldn't want to be without the power you'd lose there. You'd also lose power through all the gears (since they'd all be 'taller'). The 6 speed is a better solution but definitely more expensive and harder to install. A monster stroker could pull it, but if you put that much money in your bike, you could get the 6 speed (or do both?). Neither a stroker or taller gearing, for the street, appeals to me but I can now see where it has its merit in some applications. I would like to see someone install it and see if it really 'bolts right on'. |
