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Naustin
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 08:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Reuel...
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 10:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Naustin: jetting may be too rich, depends on what you set it at and where you live. (used to be 175/45 was always recommended but then everybody started going rich so...)

EZ: A relay puts the power from the battery through the relay to the starter (or other device). The switch just activates the relay. Generally used for items that require a huge power draw that would burn out switches and wiring. Used for high power accessory lighting a lot.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 10:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If it looks the same as the starter relay, you could probably use that. I wouldnt wire around it. Which parts books dont show it?
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Ezblast
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 10:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

All
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Krid80
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 11:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

45/175 is spot on with no shims on my bike. on the dyno the a/f ratio was perfect and flat.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 11:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Interesting EZ. Are you sure its a relay? If the wiring diagram shows it to be a relay and it looks the same as the starter relay, then thats what I'd use.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 11:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Krid: Very cool. But I (& Naustin)wonders how rich it will be with the stock exhaust?
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Wednesday, April 16, 2008 - 11:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EZ: I show 2 relays. 1 for the starter and 1 for the ignition. Same part #. Is there a 3rd?
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 12:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nope - I figure the starter and ignition/system relay must be the same - there is a rivet to punch out - I'll bolt in the new one. Remember folks - oil and electrics - especially relays - don't mix - lol

EZ
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Reuel
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 11:18 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought it was water and electronics! As far as I can tell, it's the same relay. If you wire around it, your Blast will never turn off again! Is that bad?
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Naw - I'm just going to get a new relay and go from there - they are cheap - the question really is - will they have them in stock anywhere - lol - I'm going to find out today - inspected everything else - the plug looks fine still, the wire loom with the ground wire is a bit melted, however the wire seems to be fine inside - checked - so assuming no other things are glitched - replacing the relay should do the trick - think I'll get two - especially since the part is used twice on the bike - a back up would be a good idea.
EZ
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Reuel
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 11:30 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Take one out, go to Autozone or something with it, and ask if they have one just like it. Relays will normally last forever unless you squirt oil on them or something.
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Naustin
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 12:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Eric/Krid - cool... Yes, I'm sure it was 45/175, and with just the BUB and no changes to the intake, it feels very good. The stocker has alot more volume internally, but I wonder if it really has much more restriction? The stock exhaust is supposed to have that tuned baffle system so that the sound waves reflect and cancel each other out, rather than simply being stuffed full of fiberglass.

Maybe it won't be too bad... I guess I'll just have to try it and see.

I found an independant local shop to do my dirty work. I'm so happy to be free to the dealer. This guy specializes in HD, but HIS bike is a Hayabusa drag bike that he built himself. Its streched, bored over, nitrous, etc. He even did everythign himself, even the body work himself. Its really impressive... He showed me the turbo hayabusa kit he's installing on another guy's bike too... : D

He said too that he's done some Buells with Thunderstorm motors in the past and got them up to 130hp (rear wheel)... Now that'd be a kick in the pants!!

(Message edited by naustin on April 17, 2008)
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Krid - of course it was - you where running the V&H - which does not flow as good as the Jardine or WB or Force or even the D&D - which could go a tad higher in jetting, and shimming the needle helps the launching improve to even better. It is equal - well almost - to the Bub and Kerker - all of which is better than stock - no matter what you do to that stock - lol
EZ

(Message edited by ezblast on April 17, 2008)
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 01:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DP had two - I'm shocked! - lol
EZ
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Krid80
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 01:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Just sold the bike. I am now in the market for a used FZ6 (or new leftover if cheap enough). Please if anyone here knows of one within 200 miles or so of STL let me know via PM on here or text me at 618-203-6980

Thanks everyone, I'll still check in from time to time.
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Gearheaderiko
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 08:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EZ: Looks like a standard 4 wire relay. Anything should work.

Krid: Congrats on your sale. Stop back when you buy another Buell (or HD). Dont much care hearing about an FZanything. Sorry, dont take it personal, those are just my true colours.
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Reuel
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 08:43 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's a shot of my latest prototype! I've tested the electronics, and so far it works. This weekend, I'll be trying out a new sensor for the timing cup. Can't get to my web page from work, so can someone tell me if it works? Check out the Ignition section.

Prototype version 5
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sigh-replaced both of them - all I get is the starter click - so how do you jump the starter again? And if I jump it and it works, and I get the click without jumping it - does that mean that a wire to the starter must be fried?

EZ
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 09:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I read it - it works!
EZ
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Reuel
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 09:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm on swings right now, so I can't look it up until tomorrow. If you short the relay and it starts, there's a problem. Try putting the battery on a charger for a bit. Frying wires can use a bit of electricity.
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Swampy
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 09:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

EZ, there are two wires to the starter, the big one to the battery and a small one from the starter relay, all you have to do is check for 12 volts at the big wire all the time, and when you push the start button you should get cranking voltage to the to small one, if nothing happens, jump 12 volts to the small one and you are bypassing the relay.

Reuel, your site looks great! I am impressed with your faith in things you can not see....your going to have to give me a lesson some day.
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Ezblast
Posted on Thursday, April 17, 2008 - 11:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

But I get a click like a starter solenoid click - just no turn over of a starter. Sigh... Charging the battery till tomorrow after work - then I'll do those test and try jumping.

EZ
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Kustomklassix
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 02:04 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Great work Reuel! Secondly, could somebody PLEASE help me figure out the rational behind this bike the first 4 things I found wrong and went WTF on:
1. Extended swingarm. Why? Also, I have structural concerns...hm
2. Chain Drive = Pain in the butt for maintenance among other stuff
3. DIFFERENT SIZED WHEELS ON THE FRONT AND REAR!!!! GAH!!!! THE HORROR!!!!
4. Did not re-jet the carb thus causing bike to run even leaner than it started out as from el factory

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Buell-Blast-2001-ha rley-buell-blast_W0QQitemZ220225053785QQcmdZViewIt em
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Berkshire
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 04:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My guess would be that either the rear wheel was damaged or else the owner just wanted wide rubber on the back, so he just used a 17" Buell tuber wheel. The extended swingarm is needed for the larger wheel & tire, and a chain is the easiest & cheapest way to hook it all up. The matching front wheel and fork setup would be very nice, but not so cheap.

It's possible that a jetting change was installed with the intake & exhaust and the seller just didn't know about it, or forgot, or didn't consider it worth mentioning.

It looks like the elbow part of a pro-series intake, but the filter is missing!

Also looks like the swingarm might have been lengthened a bit more than just the minimum required for clearance.
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 11:02 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yeah - using the M2 front has been done to equalize it, and that is the weld on belt adjuster for the Tubers welded to the end of the Blast swing arm - yes it fits - and extends it about an inch and a half. Concur about the intake - tried that myself - it vibrates too much by itself without the weight of the filter to hold it down to tear only the top part of the boot - instead you get tiny tears all around the boot - lol - one of the first modified Blasts I'd seen had done a similar wheel treatment - M2 front and rear.
EZ
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Greenieboy
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 02:23 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hello,

Has anyone successfully used a Harley shift lever on a Buell Blast?

The dealer says it can't be done.
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 03:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What type? - some have been done - including forward controls - lol
EZ
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Ezblast
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 03:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

By the way - welcome to the madness!

EZ
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Luckyduck
Posted on Friday, April 18, 2008 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Naustin,

For your jetting, I put a dyno run with the K&N filter, Jardine with quiet core, shimmed needle and 48/175 jets in the dyno section a week or two ago. You can see the A/F ratios at the top of the chart. It was definitely not lean. Wish I had tested the 45/170 with K&N and stock exhaust before pulling that off. It would seem to me like that is about the right jetting as it didn't pop or anything. It also felt like a lot less above 5k rpm than what is on there now.

Check out the Harley dealers around if you want to dyno it. Sometimes they run specials. Mine was only $25 for the run with the special deal and it took about 20 minutes for them to hook it up and do the run. Well worth knowing what is going on. And having a dyno chart of your bike on the wall of your garage is sort of a geek certificate.

Paul
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