| Author | Message | ||
     Buuueller |
You got it Brutha. | ||
| Ezblast |
I swear honey - all the modifications are for practical reasons - I swear - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Buuueller |
"Honey, a Big bore kit just means big mpg!" | ||
| Ezblast |
Thats true! - lol - the hi-comp piston is built for the Blast head and so your gas mileage actually improves! All the owners have commented on that difference - you usually have to go down from the stock jetting to 155 to 160 main - Measurements for the LSR Header Exhaust combo: Top of header from the Head - od x l: 1 1/2 "x 1 3/4" (I'd say its a built in torque cone, but the master - TP - says it is for the 1st reversion) to 1 5/8" x 8 1/4" to 1 3/4" x 8 1/4" to 2" x 10" to a 2" x 3" m/f connector to the exhaust. The final bend is 2 3/4" from the end and total length is 31" plus 2" of what the coupler adds to the length - a 33" header to the exhaust - add the 2" to the end before the bend as well - lol - the constant loop you could have bent from a conduit bender - its that smooth a curve - then a slight bend to make it exit under the bike evenly - the result is a very rapid acceleration curve - that beats all the other exhausts I've tried - the only two I haven't personally tried being the Kerker and V&H - I have their dyno #'s though and the Bub has /had simular hp and had better torque - lol - if you want any particular dimension ask and I'll answer tommorow after work. This combined with the 4" Super trap with the 2"header fitting using all 12 discs is the bomb and the sound awesome - a total of 99 bucks plus the custom bracketry I fabed up - if you want pics of them let me know - the total system just rocks - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Styxnpicks |
I just did a bad thing, my pro series just got a lot louder | ||
| Krid80 |
what did you do? | ||
| Styxnpicks |
lets just say it flows alot better now  | ||
| Krid80 |
pics? | ||
| Styxnpicks |
still looks like a stock pro series | ||
| Kustomklassix |
Well aren't you a devious one Styx . . .  | ||
| Reuel |
Is this bad, or is this really bad?  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Carbon deposits around the exhaust valve are normal. Or is there something else I'm not seeing? | ||
| Reuel |
It's white! Lean condition? Or just paranoia? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Lean. Normal for a Blast, maybe. Hows the bike run? As more carbon builds up, tiny little 'mountains' are caused on the valve stem(in the combustion chamber too). These tend to get super heated over and over again, so being white in colour is not that unusual. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on March 15, 2008) | ||
| Ezblast |
Get a new boot and new exhaust gasket! What is your jetting? EZ | ||
| Reuel |
Seems to be running OK, but a bit weak around early to mid throttle. It's a 175. It was fine last time I checked, but that was before I changed the intake. Looks like I'll try a 185. The boot is showing signs of cracks forming, but nothing going through. There's a lot of corrosion between the boot and the intake. I'll get a boot on order. Do you think the local Suzuki/Honda/Kawasaki dealer would have jets that would fit? Ocean City's a bit far, and I've been banned from Seaford HDB. (Message edited by reuel on March 15, 2008) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Shim the needle. Banned? | ||
| Ezblast |
Go to 180 max. EZ | ||
| Reuel |
Shimmed. Smyrna has a HD dealer. They should have jets. Road trip! I should call them first to see if they're open ... Read the Dealers-Rate Yours section where I posted about my latest Seaford, DE HD/Buell session.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You can go to at least 4 'shims' or probably more if you'd seen an adjustable needle. | ||
| Reuel |
I'm going to wander over to the Intake side of this forum and read about shimming again. I just went and bought a 180, but when I got home, it was a 160. I'll go at lunch time tomorrow and try again... | ||
| Buellistic |
exhaust valve too lean in picture !!! #180 is Part Number 27114-88 ... (Message edited by buellistic on March 16, 2008) | ||
| Toniportray |
Funny thing happened today. Actually, it's not funny at all. I'm not happy about it. I was blitzing along the freeway around 75mph and I started to notice the bike was getting louder and louder. After about 4 miles of wondering what in the hell was going on, the bike gets REAL loud. I have a stock exhaust system. I also notice a sudden drop in power. Not a huge drop in power, but a clearly noticeable decrease. I pull over and since the headwind is no longer pounding on my face, I hear just how loud the bike is. I kickstand it and look at the exhaust. WTF? The damn pipe cracked completely off right at the manifold at the exit of the cylinder. I didn't think that it would prevent me from getting home, but I knew there was going to be hell to pay if I blew past a piggy with the muffler bypassed. Fortunately, I made it back, but I got a number of nasty looks from people in town as I was banging up and down the streets. Sorry folks. I just gotta get it back home, and I swear I'll never be this disruptive again. The noise really bounces off all the buildings in town and makes a LOT of racket. Anyhow, I don't think this is repairable. At least not with my tools. But that's what this is all about. I don't think I can get enough pipe from the manifold piece to duct tape the thing together. Otherwise I'd just do that with a hella lotta duct tape. Even if I did manage this, would the tape hold or would it just melt and slide off after a day or two of riding? This is the ideal solution if I can make it work because it doesn't cost me anything. I don't have welding equipment and I'll bet a shop will charge me at least $50, in which case I might as well just buy a new muffler system. Any other solutions out there? If I need to replace the pipe and muffler, what are the chances of finding an exhaust system for dirt cheap from a junk yard? My experience with junk yards is that they still charge 60-70% what it would cost to buy the part new. Sad... How do these guys stay in business?! Guess they really don't have to.. What exhaust systems are the cheapest? This sucks...  | ||
| Ezblast |
I've heard of a few cases where it broke at the weld to the muffler - but not that - have you jumped any curbs, go over a large speed bumb? Thats wild. For loud though - my Force exhaust has everything but a drag racing big twin beat for noise - lol - I think it actually amplifies sound. EZ | ||
| Muckerpuck |
jardine exhaust is the best bang for your buck. i think its 299 new, its has one of the best headers you can get and a decent pipe... but it is one of the louder setups,,, not like ez's force but as loud as i want, there is a quite insert for the jardine ive been thinkin about tryin it out... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Duct tape would be pitiful and no other tape (exhaust or not) is going to last very long. A tin can and 2 hose clamps would be a "just get it home" fix. Being that close to the head, welding is about the only fix that will work (provided the metal isnt to badly deteriorated). Stock exhausts can be found used cheap (ebay-shipping will be expensive) and the Jardine or V & H are both about $200 (but may be louder than you want). No easy fix on this one  | ||
| Buuueller |
I think I still have my stock pipe, Ill have to look tho. May have junked it. If I do Ill try to help you out if thats the route you wanna go. Or just remove it, take it to a muffler shop and get a real quote. I bet they can do it for $20 or so if it just broke at the weld. Then at least youll know for sure what your options are. Watch ebay daily. Used pipes pop up there more frequently than at a salvage yard. | ||
| Reuel |
$20 for a weld shop is what I've experienced. You probably want to leave it on the bike and just ride down so they can make sure they get the angle right. It's thin metal after all. My exhaust cost $90 new. It (barely) passes inspection for loudness. It read 96 dB, where the limit was 105 dB. I got the smallest cherry bomb muffler I could find and took it to the local Meineke and had them weld it up for me. If you go this route, have them use 1 3/4" ID pipe. Have your stock exhaust on when you do it so they can see just how it goes. See my web site for images, or you can check these images I posted back when I used a fake name, Joey. Duct tape would likely quickly lose its stickiness because of the extreme heat, and then burst into flame as the exhaust leaks through it. | ||
| Gbaz |
auto part places usually have muffler repair kits. i would rather weld it or replace it, but a repair kit may work. | ||
| Toniportray |
Thanks for the offer Buuueller (did I get the correct amount of "u"s in there?), but it looks like I may just be heading down to Kragens or Napa to get a Permatex Exhaust Repair Kit. $4-$5. It's supposed to work up to 1000 degree Fahrenheit and somehow bonds to the pieces together. I can't allow myself to spend $150+ on a new exhaust system if the only real benefit is a better noise output. 'Course if this Permatex kit doesn't work I may have no choice. If this fails, I'll inquire at some local shops about a welding job. If it's true that I could get the job done for ~$20, I'll pay for that. I'll just have to stick to Ramen noodles for a week to correct for the extra expense.  |
