| Author | Message | ||
     Johnnylunchbox |
tntthumper - If you want synth in a 40 weight. I would go with Shell Rotella Synth 5W40. It is about $13/gallon. Yes I said Gallon. LOL at walmart. It'll do everything the 10W40 will do, plus have better viscosity for even lower cold start temps. It also has a great additive package of buffers and detergents because it is designed for diesel engines. | ||
| Heckle |
Hi, I've been meaning to post this to possibly update the list of compatible filters on this page. When I winterized my Blast this year, I put on a Quaker State QS4967. I also put in Castrol "Grand Prix" Motorcycle Oil (20W50). It seems this Castrol product is for the Canadian market, as I found it at Castrol.ca, but not at Castrol.com. Go figure. | ||
| Ezblast |
Gear oil - do not use! Use reg. Mobil 1 eng. oil. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/3842/182748.html?1142609346 GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Brucelee |
M1 does NOT recommend putting their gear oil in a transmission that calls for motor oil. I will be swapping mine out in favor of Red Line 20-50 this week. | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
EZ - check out this link regarding Mobil 1... they claim to be harmless to yellow metals and even prevent corrosion. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_Synthetic_Gear_Lubr icant_LS_75W-90.asp Also here is a good general read on sulfur in lubes: http://www.noria.com/learning_center/category_article.asp?articleid=496 | ||
| Ezblast |
"Excellent rust, staining and corrosion protection of copper and its alloys" this quote - refering to gears - and this "sulfur-phosphorous additive system" - both 2001 quotes from that study) have proven to not be compatible in later studies - especially to solder - lol - the later article speaks of the benefits, however, mentions nothing on long term effect to wires and electrical connections. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Bobbyhead |
Quoting directly from the bottom of that Mobil 1 page http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_Synthetic_Gear_Lubr icant_LS_75W-90.asp , under applications: "Not recommended for automatic, manual or semiautomatic transmissions for which engine oil or automatic transmission fluids are recommended" Hypoid GL-5 oils were never designed to be used in manual transmissions. I work as a Certified Ford Service tech, and we have many advisory bulletins warning NEVER to use GL-5's in manual transmission gear boxes. | ||
| Kdk102 |
I am in the process of changing my oil and the filter the HD dealer gave me is to big so i am off to the parts house with the list of compatibles however i was wondering i am also planing to change my primary and the guys at the bike shop said never run synthetic in the primary they suggested i go with RevTech high performance gear and chaincase lube i am having alot of trouble with a sticky shifter and missing gears (mostly 2nd)also i was thinking about putting lucas in the primary a small amount probably about 8 oz but do i just use the motor oil additive since its not ATS any info is appreciated | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Not sure I completely understand your question but: I wouldnt add anything to the primary except approved and tested lubricants. You run the risk of fouling up (possibly permanently) the clutch plates. Harley synthetic is a safe bet since thats what HD recommends. I've used Redline 75w90 gear lube (NOT SHOCKPROOF) for years (even though there is some debate of late on using any gear lube in the primary , Redline recommends it and I've been using it a long time). There are other good lubes listed here. As far as the shift to 2nd its been bad straight from the factory (normal). Synthetic will help. However there is also the possibility of a loose shifter bolt in the tranny causing a bad shift (known on the 2000-2001 Blasts).Also normal wear & tear (mileage ?) It should be noted that I only say Redline because I've no other experience with anything in the primary other than it or HD products. Other products may be just as good, but avoid being the first to test a product unless its recommended. | ||
| Buellistic |
Just bought a 2000 BLAST ... Just learning the OIL CHANGE secrets ... Oil filter: Wal*Mart SuperTech 4967 ... Put 5oz. in oil filter and 1Qt. 24oz. in OIL TANK ... This will bring you just below full mark on dip stick(engine operating temperature, motorcycle in up rigth position) ... Transmission 32oz. or just touching SPRING, diaphram(clutch) ... Run Syn3 in both engine and transmission ... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Hmmm....Thats 1oz shy of 2 qts. 2 qts usually overfills it. But I'll check that out next oil change. That would sure take the guess work out of oil changes though, if it holds consistent. | ||
| Ezblast |
For primary - just covering bottom teeth of gear. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jmynes |
At the school I went to 24 + 5 = 29. That same school taught us that a quart has 32 oz, so my math says it's 3 oz shy of 2 qt. I bet two quarts overfills it by just about 3 oz. | ||
| Cwizzle |
ez give it to me straight i trust what you all have to say, what primary oil should i use and how tight should i set the primary, also (off topic) can you tell me what part number is the front rubber isolator is? thanks | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
 The math didnt seem right to me either! Apparently due to the head injury, I not only lost my ability to spell, but to add too! Still seems a little overfull, but closer now!  | ||
| Ezblast |
I've used both methods sugested in the TKV Procedures section under motor knowledge for primary adjustment - both are fine for adjusting, oil - Mobil 1 15/50 for both engine and primary, and pt # for front rubber Isolator is: L0501.T - torque/tighten from the bottom. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Sking1973 |
Quick question...maybe. I'm going to be changing the oil in my ride tomorrow. I want to change the oil in the primary as well. I have a service manual and I'm reasonably confident about doing the maintenance on my bike. The manual says that I should let a 'trained technician' do this primary oil change. Is this necessary? I'm not planning on doing an adjustment or anything (although I probably should). Also, when adding the new oil, do you pour it in through the primary side cover? This is what I am assuming. The service manual is kind of vague on this. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes - the tricky part is loosening - not remove, no need - the peg-arm - involves a long extension and swivil, and remove battery to make easier. Replace existing nuts and washers with lock washers, coupling nuts and locktight will make the job easier for the next time. All the rest by the manual - except its about 1 3/4 qts for the motor and eye measure the primary per manual, I've read of bad things happening when overful - lol - GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on September 08, 2006) | ||
| Sking1973 |
Thanks for the info. Seems 'easy' enough. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The Shortcut: To change the primary/trans fluid- Drain the chaincase preferably when hot. You might want to put a block of wood under the kickstand to get it a little more level to drain it all out. To fill: find the transmission vent hose and fill from there using a small funnel. You may want to 'crack' the bolts at the clutch inspection cover to let it fill faster (or loosen the clutch cable from the trans as referred to in a recent post by EZ) but its really not necessary. Fill with exactly 1 quart of your preference primary lube. Replace the trans vent back into the frame channel and your done. Drain & fill! Super easy!! Swampy reminded me again of this easy way to change it. It works very well and the last time I changed trans fluid I needed to pull the cover anyway so I followed the manual exactly and it took exactly 1 quart. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes, however others have used as little as 28 - I used 30 the last time on both - that is why I visually inspect - new gasket and every 3rd - new bolts - lol - doing it all yourself saves enough for a new gasket and boot when I do the oils, keeping everything fresh - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Its the same engine and transmission in all Blasts so how can the capacity vary? If it doesnt take the quart, somethings not done right. You have to drain it all and drain it hot. Not hard. Spend the time pulling or loosening the Y-frame (if its bent, you'll have to pull it off),pulling the clutch cover and yanking the battery; or let it drain and make a beer run, watch TV, read some Tolstoy or wax the plastic. Of course you can go to all the trouble and go by the manual exactly, pull the cover and see if yours also takes the 1 quart exactly or whatever it takes, and next time use the shortcut and refill it with that amount. You could even measure what comes out, but thats not really reliable. But its always taken me a quart. | ||
| 129cbrider |
Best oil I've found for the Blast is Chevron DEVOL 15W40. It's a diesel rated and SJ auto rated and makes the Blast engine run stronger and unbelievably quiet for some reason. | ||
| Bitbear |
Here's link to a FAQ from Chevron. I guess I'm a bit dubious... http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/nafl/auto /docs/Chev_CJ4_faq.pdf | ||
| Ezblast |
Has Sulfer content - Bad Juju! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Medic24 |
Just purchased a 2003 Blast that had been in storage for about 4 yr only 240 miles on bike. Would it be best to keep original break in oil in engine and trans until the break in is complete? | ||
| Swampy |
Welcome to the Board Medic24! That oil that is in your bike, even thought it only has 240 miles on it it could have many Riders Edge Class hours on it. To be on the safe side you ought to change it out. Also right this very minute, Auto Zone is closing out oil at half price! I found some Mobile 1, 15W-50 for about $3, per quart! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome! Change it along with the tranny oil (if it was special break in oil, there's nothing special about it now!). I would probably go with the Harley synthetic oil for engine and trans unless HD specifically says not to use it during break-in (using synthetic during break-in is a hotly debated question-so I defer to the factory advice on their synthetic). | ||
| Carlost |
Anyone ever use the Castrol Syntec Blend 20W50 in their Blast? How 'bout Castrol 4T 20W50 dino oil? | ||
| Ezblast |
Both sound like they would work. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
