| Author | Message | ||
     Stonewall |
hello, i've made a similar post to this one over a the buelletin board in case anyone sees this as being familiar BTW! i bought a blast this weekend and it was used in the rider's edge program. the panels are blue and, of course, have some scratches that are quite evident. instead of buying new panels as of yet, i've decided to paint the blue ones a matte black. i've removed the fairing and the tail section and those are coming along great. after sanding out all the scratches and blemishes i'm using ultra flat black krylon fusion. so far so good . . . i need to remove the panel over the gas tank and this is where i have a bit of concern. i see the screw that is right under the front of the seat. that's easy. but, i'm not too sure about up at the front near the speedometer. the dip stick and oil go there and that seems to hold down the front part of the panel. anyone know exactly how to remove this panel? going to be a bit of a pain to take off the little front fender as well w/o removing the wheel but i think i can reach the bolts with some time and effort. thanks for any assistance someone can offer!!! i'll have to post some pics once i'm done. | ||
| Jimrich |
Stonewall, first you need to get a service manual for your year model. I promise you it will be the best $60 you will ever spend. But to your question, the plastic gas tank cover is only attached by the oil dip stick and the one single bolt. Be sure to remove the fuel tank breather tube prior to attempting to remove it. With the bolt near the seat off, and the oil dipstick and washer off, you lift up on the cover at the dip stick area and push the whole cover towards to the speedo then left from the seat end, it should come right off. | ||
| Jimrich |
 oh and welcome to BadWeb! Your going to love your Blast | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS: Dont forget to note which way the dipstick washer comes off! You can get the fender off without removing the wheel, but getting it back on that way is much more work. You may scratch your new paint. Also, Welcome! | ||
| Slowhand96 |
I know this thread is about removal... but this seems like a good place to post my problem, I have been fighting a re-installation problem. I gan't get my dang tank cover to sit down flush. The black ring sits above the gas hole.. lol.. (Erik, I know this is your pet peeve so maybe you can shed some light on this for me) Also... How does the black ring fit on the dipstick hole? Wide part down or up? On top of the tank cover or underneath it? My bike didn't have this when I bought it and I just picked up a new one and can't get it to sit right no matter what I try. | ||
| Reuel |
The ring goes on after the cover. The bigger part goes down. It clips into place. Once you get the big rubber ring around the gas cap in (takes some working sometimes), push down on the rear of the cover while you tighten the bolt. I put a big washer on mine because the bolt was stressing the plastic too much. | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Thanks Reuel. It sounds ike the mistake I was making is that I kept trying to put the thinner part of the dipstick washer down.... it seems like it should fit that way???? So the small part is inside the hole in the tank cover. I'll give your way a shot tomorrow. Thanks Again! Chuck | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Reuel is exactly correct. Sometimes you really have to work the large tank cover trim ring down. A little Armour all would probably make it slide down easy. I too added the large washer!LOL! | ||
| Reuel |
It's that OEM product improvement thing! Now, when I go fuel injection, I no longer have room for that second tank because of that horn...  | ||
| Berkshire |
Are you guys sure about the grommet around the oil dipstick? I know it's MUCH easier to install it with the wide part down, but the hole in the tank cover is bigger than the OD of the oil tank opening, and the inner part of the grommet is just the right size to fill in the gap and center the tank cover opening around the oil filler opening. When installed this way the wide part forms a nice looking collar around the opening. Also, my parts book shows it that way. It can be a royal PIA to get it on that way though - especially if the grommet has been deformed (like mine) by previous removal & reinstallation. I leave the tank cover opening around the gas tank cap kind of halfway off, so that the big trim ring is somewhat aligned at the front, but still raised up and loose at the back - that allows some wiggle room at the oil filler neck, which makes getting the grommet in much easier. Once it's started all the way around, it takes some pressure to get it fully seated, and the pressure needs to be applied *right up against* the metal oil filler neck - you want to be pushing down over the inner sleeve part at the center of the grommet. I use a wide screwdriver turned "flatways". It may take some wiggle to get everything lined up right - don't force it, as that deforms it and makes installation more difficult. You can kind of feel when it locks into place, and it really anchors the front part of the tank cover... but just to be safe, install the dipstick so the grommet doesn't pop out while doing the next step! The next step is fitting the big trim ring around the top of the tank. Start at the front, since the oil filler will be holding that part down more anyway. The trick is getting the lower edge of the trim ring to slip down without hanging up on the edges of the aluminum ring, the gasket, and the raised part of the tank. With the front part started, you basically just push down right around the edge of the opening. When you get to the back it may be necessary to push rearward at the lower edge of the trim ring to get it started. Holding the back end of the cover up a little while pushing down at the trim ring seems to help. Once it's properly in place, the top of the trim ring will be laying flat and slightly below the level of the aluminum ring, so it will look good and Erik will be happy! All of this goes down much easier if the parts are clean and slick - I spray a paper towel with WD-40 and wipe everything down. Now that I've got the technique down, I can R&R my mangled oil grommet without damaging it further, so I know a new one would go on even easier... it's just one of the many things I never think about when I'm at the parts counter! LOL I too have added a washer - freaky! (Message edited by berkshire on May 30, 2008) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The repair manual also shows the dipstick ring going on that way. I'm 99% sure I've never pulled any of them off that were fitted that way. It also fits much better with the lip down and the tank cover is held more completely on the tank with the lip down. My grommet wont fit inside the hole of the tank panel (Oh, I can force it). To do it your/repair manual way doesnt look or fit as well as lip down. The lip covers the hole so you wont know if its centered anyway. My opinion is the manual is wrong. Seems like a whole lot of work for no gains in fitment (or needed fitment-its certainly not a critical part). Thanks for pointing that out. PS Many cant get the big ring to seat, I doubt if they could ever get the little one too! (Message edited by gearheaderiko on May 30, 2008) | ||
| Berkshire |
It does take some practice! | ||
| Blastofrage |
ok does anyone have an idea on how to get a tank cover to set straight again, i pulled mine off when i was doing some work to my blast and when i got it all back together my cover is tweeked a little bit and not setting on all the way.i am waiting to finish paint till i can get this back to normal so if you have any ideas or hints,your info would be helpful thanks | ||
| Thumper62 |
Fuel Line maybe? | ||
| Johnnymac |
I can't say for sure about an '02 model but on the '07+ the fuel vent hose is part of the fuel cap bracket and external. I do know from having mine off several times that the hole for the gas cap fits very tightly around the grommet/seal that is around the gas cap housing. once or twice it went right on with no issues but usually I have to work the cover around the grommet to make it seat properly. Check that grommet and I bet (as long as the tank itself is properly seated) that the gas cap opening on the cover just needs to be massaged over the grommet. Johnny | ||
| Srtnation |
Hey guys, I need some help on removing the rear fairing. Could somebody please shed some light on this. And also.... The front tire fender, how hard is it to take off? Will I need to remove the front tire? Thanks. And yes I know I need a owners manual, working on it! | ||
| Swampy |
T27 bit is what the bolts are for the rear fairing, you may have a problem with the nuts turning so you may end up just tearing the rubber portion of the nut away and once the hugger is off cut the bolts and remaining nut apart. If I remember correctly you can remove the front fender without removing the wheel. A ratcheting box end wrench works well to get at the bolts holding the front fender on. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! T27 fits almost every torx on the Blast. ,...and you are talking about the flat black rear 'hugger' fender and not the coloured tailpiece that the seat sits on? |
