| Author | Message | ||
     Sculelos |
Okay I Noticed my speedometer wasn't working, looked at it, all my other gauges and lights work, and it even cycles threw (speedo moves a tiny bit while starting), I checked my bike and all the cables apear to be in good condition, so is it reasonable to assume its my sensor, thanks for any help. | ||
| Jprovo |
If the odometer is not working too, I'd say it's the speedo sensor. James | ||
| Swampy |
I concur! | ||
| Sculelos |
The buell blast doesn't have an odometer, well thanks for confirmation, when I get the parts (7-10Days) and install them hopefully it will fix my problem. | ||
| Light_keeper |
Do you mean the odo isnt working or your bike does not have one?  | ||
| Sculelos |
The Buell Blast dosn't have an Odometer. | ||
| Jprovo |
Yes it does, press the trip-meter button next to the speedo, it's either a trip meter or an odometer. | ||
| Sculelos |
Oh, I guess mine has one, its just it's not currently working cause my speedometer is still not here, probably will arive sometime next week. | ||
| Ezblast |
Sigh - its the sensor - if the lights are working - like the blinker, neutral, etc. - GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Sculelos |
Well I hope everything changes out fine with my sensor, as I am not that mechanicly inclined, hopefully if I just follow the service manual it will work. | ||
| Xgecko |
Speedo keeps blowing fuses.....I've blown two Accessory fuses in the last 2 days...shutting off the Speedometer, odometer and Neutral light. At the moment I have no firm idea what it is but it could be the key switch which I'm more suspicious of than anything else....anyone else have an experience like this | ||
| Jimrich |
Xgecko, have you tried the built in diagnostic in your speedometer? You can access them by: 1) While you ignition is off hold the reset button 2) Turn the key to the on position. Now from each reset button push the speedometer will test the following: d01 Speed sensor power output shorted low d02 Speed sensor power output shorted high or open d03 Not Used d04 Not Used d05 Speed sensor return shorted high d06 Speed sensor return shorted low d07 Not Used d08 Speedometer power over voltage d09 Speed output shorted high d10 Speed output shorted low or open The last number CAL14 is the calibration number. Each test will read dXXSEt if there is a problem, or dXXCLr if there is not. (XX being the number of the list above) The From what I can tell it will test if your speed sensor, speedometer, or wiring is the problem. Hope that helps! Good Luck | ||
| Xgecko |
I'll try but at the moment I'm out of fuses | ||
| Buellistic |
Would tye wraps help ??? | ||
| Slowhand96 |
 Please do not feed the troll Experienced participants in online forums know that the most effective way to discourage a troll is usually to ignore him or her, because responding encourages a true troll to continue disruptive posts — hence the often-seen warning "Please do not feed the troll". Lifted from Wikipedia. | ||
| Xgecko |
staring at the wiring diagram there are but two things connected to the accessory fuse. 1) the speedo which works fine as long as the fuse (7.5A) it whole and 2)the key-switch which also has live 15A coming into it. I may have some spare fuses at work in which case I'll test the Speedometer but I think I'm gonna have to take apart the switch assembly at the minimum and likely replace it. Not that it matters that much I don't really use my speedo that much and I can find neutral in my sleep the only thing i really use it for is figuring out when I need to gas up so it may wait until the winter slowdown before I actually fix it. | ||
| Jimrich |
 Xgecko, racking my head on this, hell all those years as a nerd in high school has got to pay off somewhere. In order for the key switch to be the problem it has to reduce current like a resistor does. Being that it is feed by the main (15 amps) and the accessory and the ignition are 7.5, unless there is a resistor in the fuse block, the key switch could be the problem. What makes me want to point the finger elsewhere is the accessory and ignition fuses receive current from switch and are both 7.5 if it was bad you should be blowing both fuses. (Except the whole resistor in the block is true) So past that, following the wires there is a junction going to the tail light and the head light. Pulling my accessory fuse kills the tail light and the of course the speedo. Check the tail light assembly for a short or bad bulb. You’re not one of those guys with a custom tail light are you? What are you doing when the fuse blows? --Jim Please don't feed the Troll | ||
| Xgecko |
The fuse blows under normal riding conditions and it effects nothing else on the bike....I've been told by a number of people that what I likely have is a ground issue so at some point (like maybe sunday when it's raining) I'll strip the bike down and look for the ground wire thats open....the reason I suspected the key switch is when I ran out of 7.5a fuses I stuffed a 15a in the accessory slot and when it blew it took the keyswitch with it...but it's still likely a ground and I'm thinking it could be that ground.....I really need to just sit down with a Fluke and just chase wires I'm usually smarter at chasing electrical issues and in truth I'm rather distracted. I made the mistake of sitting on the new 08KLR and I think I'm in love....just gotta think of how to afford it next spring. (Message edited by xgecko on September 07, 2007) | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
gecko, it suddenly dawned on me that when I bought my SECOND j&p tach, it was bad straight from the box just like the first one was. The problem was the wiring to the light bulb for the tach. Its really poor quality. really poor. As soon as I tried to fire up the bike, BLAM! 7.5 fuse gone. Do me a favor and check that bulb wiring.... and the rest of the sorry a$$ wiring of that j&p tach...... | ||
| Xgecko |
no I wired my tach bulb to the headlight not the speedo. And the wiring for it broke pretty quick so I switched to an LED (yes with a resistor) | ||
| Xgecko |
Ok Jimrich, I found fuses (this was harder than it sounds) and ran the the diagnostic...d02 set, d08 set....I can see this is gonna be a PITA.... edit....I did a bit of wire chasing over the weekend andfound that the ground wire on the battery was loose....whether this was the issue or not remains to be seen...Also this is a 2000 with the recall done which means I have the converter box....I removed it and plan on reseting the fault codes tomorrow morning before I go to work. If I don't blow a fuse then it could be on of those two things....I'll reconnect the the converter box and test again BTW anyone have an up to date part number for the Speedo???? (Message edited by xgecko on September 10, 2007) | ||
| Slowhand96 |
Xgecko I just went over this with Erik, I think that info is in here somewhere but I'll be danged if I could find it when I looked just now. Maybe you can find it in there. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/302978.html?1187225360  | ||
| Xgecko |
damn $100-$130....there goes a new piston...time to hunt on EBAY...at least if I have to replace the Speedo then the recalibration box goes away (Message edited by xgecko on September 10, 2007) | ||
| Jimrich |
Xgecko, You may get lucky and one (d02) is causing the other (d08) or hopefully not vice versa. A new vehicle speed sensor is a lot cheaper than a new speedo. Plus I read somewhere that it was a pain in the arse to get the mileage right on the replacement. Good Luck and let me know how it turns out. --Jim | ||
| Xgecko |
yeah but it's more likely the speedo....I haven't yet chased the wires in the TS tree (BTW all but one of the tree endpoints is replace speedo)....I will if I blow another fuse...If I have to replace the speedo my mileage starts over as far as I'm concerned unless I find a used one | ||
| Jimrich |
 Ride it till the wheels fall off, don't ever sell it, especially in AL! You would never get past the out of state vehicle inspection. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Tony, I'll trade you a 2000 model speedo for some clip-ons?! Understand that comments posted on the discussion forum represent only the views of their authors and in no way may be construed as representing the views of BadWeatherBikers.com, its custodians, or its owner(s) of record. Users will never hold BadWeatherBikers.com, its custodians, or its owner(s) of record responsible for any content posted by users of the discussion board. Dont feed the troll. | ||
| Xgecko |
clip-ons are gone but I do have a set of BUELL saddlebags....as for selling it I will likely sell it next spring....I just have the jones for the new KLR | ||
| Xgecko |
I hate it when I'm not sure what I did to fix something......so far so good I rode to work and then home again with no blown fuses and no fails on the diagnostic. If it stays this way I'm inclined to believe its the recalibration box over the negative/gound cable being loose on the battery but whichever it is isn't really important as long as it stays functional. The other thing I noticed is that without the black box my mileage with big tires is more accurate than it was with the box. Not by much but my office has been 17.1 miles from my house whether by GPS track, car, my wife's bike or mine before I went to the big Viper Strykes...with the box installed it was 16.0 miles....this morning it was 17.0...Measured against my brother's GPS and my father's Dakar this summer I was 7% off on speed and mileage hopefully this trend continues and everything stays working | ||
| Jimrich |
Cool good to hear. Keep me posted. |
