| Author | Message | ||||
     Tnthumper |
Gearhead, When I get it back(fixed I hope) I may run without the cover. And I never drilled removal hole.I just use a small swiss army knife screwdriver to pop it off. Are you running the screaming eagle module? How well do you like it? John | ||||
| Jprovo |
Using the Sportster pickup and the sportster ignition module, you wouldn't use the TPS, or the auto enrichening on the carb, right? It would just be cold blooded without a choke system. I think that the Auto enrichner will still work, I'd have o look at the wiring diagam though. If not, you can always throw on a Sportster pumper CV carb with manual choke. You can still find them at swap meets and stuff for $40. James | ||||
| Tnthumper |
James, Thanks.that may be a project for over the winter and keep stock parts just in case.But I think it would be worth a try. John | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, I run the SE module and like it! Realistically it gives me an easy tach hook up and adjustable rpm limit (running 7500 rpm, modified head). Otherwise I wouldnt know the difference between the 2 (stock & SE). Swampy: Depending on which Sportster ignition setup you use it may just be a bolt in swap without affecting the TPS or enrichener. Either way the enrichener probably wouldnt be affected or would still be usable. | ||||
| Tnthumper |
OK,here's the latest on my bike. Talked with mechanic who is working on it. Said that he did 30 miles on dyno and got it to duplicate problem. Hooked it up to a spark tester and got faulty reading. Replaced module,and ran it for additional 20 miles,no problem. Took it for road test and it gave them new problem. Bike will idle fine but bogs when you try to give it gas. I think I got bad batch of gas that morning before I dropped it off. They said they emptied in-line filter I installed and could barely get fuel to burn. As of this morning they had carb off and tore down. WHAT FUN!!!  | ||||
| Tnthumper |
I'll have bike back tomorrow. New module.they replaced carb boot to be on safe side. And gas had lots of water in it. Svc manager said he was gonna have mechanic run it on dyno today to be sure they have it cleared up. Also said he would give me dyno graph and check at tailpipe for me so I know if I'm jetted right. THANK YOU ALL FOR ALL THE HELP!!!  Also was told since module is emission control device it has 5 year 17000 mile warranty. John | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Sounds like they took really good care of you and a free dyno tune to boot! Please post the dyno graph (in the appropriate thread) when you get it. | ||||
| Tnthumper |
Got bike back on Sat. Put over 200 miles on it and no probs. I even ran it about 10-15 miles off road and did great. Can feel a BIG difference in power. | ||||
| Tnthumper |
Swampy, Do you still have that bad ignition module? If so how much do you want for it? I just want to open one up and look at the guts. John | ||||
| Swampy |
Tnt, Email me about the ignition module. | ||||
| Berkshire |
"I may run without the cover. And I never drilled removal hole.I just use a small swiss army knife screwdriver to pop it off." A precision screwdriver works good too. tech tip of the day: flyscreen screws (AN0806.3CBL) and washers (M0603.40) are good for securing the timing cover. instead of drilling the removal hole, pry off the cover and measure the distance between the two screws that hold the ignition module, and then drill two 3/16" holes thru the timing cover where they will exactly line up with the female threads in the ignition module screws. I used stainless steel button-head cap screws (8-32 UNF x 1/2" long), which are basically the same as the flyscreen screws. Trim the edge of the timing cover to make it easier to install & remove in the future. Has anybody tried an H-D points cover? | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Any 2 hole HD points cover from a Sportster or Big Twin 1973-1999 will fit.(about $10-$20, dont forget a gasket for a rain proof seal). Its easier to drill the one 5 o'clock hole (especially if the cover is already off) than to drill 2 precision holes. Drill 1 hole and cover it with electrical tape. Then you've got an easy on/off cover. | ||||
| Toniportray |
I'm curious if anyone else has ever noticed this issue I am now having. I'm trying to perform a static timing test on my Buell because I believe the ignition timing is off. I've had to really fuss with rotating the module to get it until the bike will run until it stops backfiring and sputtering out. I think I have it close, but when I hit 50mph+, I start to get backfires like the higher rpm's are leading to misfires or bad timing. The bike lunges forward a bit and it feels like every few seconds a cylinder cycle isn't firing or is firing too early. I wanted to perform the static timing method test because I don't have tools for dynamic timing. The problem is I can't get the little LED to light up as the manual says it should. I am instructed to align the cylinder to TDC (as indicated by the small vertical cut line in the flywheel (or whatever I see through the timing hole), and then rotate the module until the little red LED illuminates. I've got it at TDC because the vertical cut is centered in the window, but I can't get the LED to turn on.. I'd like to get it figured out so I can be certain my timing is correct. Anyone have any input as to why the LED won't illuminate? I've got the sidestand up, in neutral, and power on so I'm doing what the manual says exactly... I just can't figure out why the light isn't turning on when it should be.. | ||||
| Buellistic |
Toniportray: Sounds like you have miss-understold something here ... Get the PISTON coming up on the compression stroke ... Get the timing mark(stright one, not the two dots) in the center of the timing hole ... Now move the module plate to where the LED illuminates ... You have now found where you are supposed to be ... Snug the module plate down lightly ... Rotate the timing mark to the rear a little ... Now bump with the rear wheel(know you have the rear wheel off the ground, the spark plug out, and the transmission in 5th gear) bringing the timing mark to where ever the LED illuminates ... Now if the LED "JUST" illuminates as the timing mark centers in the timing plug hole it is on the OEM timing ... If you want it run better get LED to illuminate as it just comes into the rear of the timing plug hole ... In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on August 15, 2007) (Message edited by buellistic on August 15, 2007) | ||||
| Ezblast |
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| Buellistic |
 BUELListic  | ||||
| Toniportray |
I've tested to see where the piston is by inserting a dowell into the spark plug hole and I can know that the piston is at the top because the dowell doesn't go in far, and also because I can see the piston head. I'm pretty sure I'm on the compression stroke because I can feel air coming out of the cylinder and I can smell the oil in that air flowing out of the timing plug hole. I can see how one might actually mistake the compression stroke for the expell stroke, but I'm quite certain that I'm on the compression stroke. I've rotated and rotated and tried other piston high points to make sure and I can't get a lit LED ever. I am using the timing mark and not the advanced timing dots for centering in the window. Thanks for the tip on improving performance, but I can't use it until I get my LED lit at all. I still can't get it to light up. Any more input? As I understand it the piston should be closest to the spark plug hole for it to be at TDC right? This is what you (Buellistic) meant by "coming up on the compression stroke" right? | ||||
| Joey |
Sounds like you have an ignition problem. Pull it out of its hole. Turn on the bike like you're about to set the timing. The LED should be on. Get something (a butterknife?) that is attracted to magnets and stick it between the two things sticking out the inside. The LED should go off as you put it between. If you aren't getting the LED to come on at all, your module is bad. It seems the hall-effect sensor wires sometimes break from vibration. | ||||
| Buellistic |
Toniportray: If turn the IGNITION on and spin the engine over slowly with the rear wheel and if LED never illuminate you have an IGNITION MODULE problem or a WEAK BATTERY ??? "i" recomend pulling the LIGHT FUSES which maybe you are not aware of ... If you do not the lights will run your battery down ... When everybody is trying to help you, we have no idea what you may or may not know ... The FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL is some what streight forward, "BUT" it does not tell every basic step you should do and what to watch for ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||||
| Swampy |
When you static time the Blast engine you are using the single slot in the window. The LED is actually just going off when the slot is centered in the window. The LED should be on as the slot comes into the window and go off after the slot goes past the center of the window. The module controls the advance or the "on" point of the LED acording to RPM, and other inputs. You can't static time the "on" point with this set up, its just not like a points ignition......thank goodness | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Funny thing is there are 2 procedures given for static timing. One with the light going out and one with the light going on. Both are basically the same though! (follow which ever one is in the manual!) | ||||
| Buellistic |
Everything is not in the MANUAL as Swampy just stated, making just a small point of the BIG PICTURE !!! LaFayette | ||||
| Toniportray |
Well folks I'm nearly approaching my death on this one, and I'm not one to normally give up when it comes to MC maintenance. I've determined that the ignition module LED light works because I can see it go on and off when the engine is running. However, that doesn't do me much good because it's so fast I can't make adjustments. I've tried to get the LED to turn on with the line at the front of the hole, ahead of the hole, centered in the hole, at the end of the hole, and past the hole, but it never goes on despite how much I rotate the module.. I've tried testing it on the compression stroke, on the exhaust stroke (just to make sure I'm on the compression stroke when I think I am), and I've got nothing. I guess the best I can do is go back to just running the bike in neutral and trying to set the module by guessing as to where the backfiring and sputtering doesn't occur. I don't like that sloppiness, but I don't know what else to do. If it doesn't ride well at 50mph+, then I guess I'll have to keep it below that or deal with the chugging. If anyone has any more suggestions as to how to test to make sure my timing is right, I'd really appreciate it because I'm stumped. How much does a dynamic timing tool cost? | ||||
| Buellistic |
Toniportray: One thing the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL among other thing does not tell you is to make a SCRATCH MARK on the timing plate/cam cover so if you get it too far off you can put it back to where it was before you started ... If you do as the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL says it will get you in the ball park so you can then fine tune to where the timimg mark is supposed to be ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||||
| Toniportray |
Yes, as Buellistic stated, the factory manual technique of static timing does seem to get the timing in the right ball park. I was finally able to get the LED to come on by some rare chance. I don't know why it wouldn't just turn on before. I noticed the timing mark (vertical line) doesn't activate the LED until it's between the two dots and the vertical line. Appearantly the manual isn't quite right (or perhaps something else is a bit off on my bike) because I couldn't get the LED to turn on any later than that. Either it would kick on when the two dots show in the hole (making the bike run terribly), or the LED would turn on (as late as I could get it to) in between the two dots and the vertical line. It appears that my Buell is more tuned to activating the LED with the two dots rather than the vertical line. Yes, it does seem to be in the ballpark and I'll take it out soon and see if it is still fussy in the higher rpm's. For anyone who happens to stumble upon this forum in the future with similar issues here are some things I discovered that led to so much unneeded fuss. The manual says the bike must be in neutral and the kickstand up in order to test the light timing. Wrong. The light will come on in any gear (at least on my 2002), so just turn the rear wheel until you see it turn on. That'll save the fuss of constantly changing from 5th down to neutral all the time. Also, you don't have to be in 5th to rotate the wheel AND see the LED. Any gear seems to work fine. You also don't need to pull the spark plug as long as the timing plug is out (hex screw piece), because if the timing plug is out the compression air can vent out just fine through that hole. So just open the timing hole, jack up the bike enough so you can rotate the rear wheel by hand (takes some force), turn the key on, and activate the ignition switch (not the starter). Also, don't count on the light to activate when the vertical line is in the hole. Check a good way ahead of the line, especially around where the two dots pass through the hole. That's when mine actually first turns on and it turns off just as the line starts to pass through the hole. I hope my experience helps some other poor souls who have trouble getting that darn LED to light up. | ||||
| Toniportray |
Here's my test run report: Wow. Didn't think this bike has that much power. Appearantly advancing the timing just a little bit (or at least getting it out of where it shouldn't have been) has made a huge difference. I was up and down the California coast at 70 with plenty of power to spare. Just one backfire when I was shifting when I shouldn't have, but other than that it runs beautifully. Ahh. So nice to have a nice running motorcycle again. Thanks for the assistance once again. | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
Timing light is about $30, more for a better model. If the light isnt going on or off at the vertical line, then your timing is off! With the vertical line in the center of the timing hole you are supposed to rotate the module till the LED goes on or off (or vice versa-depending on your method). You're not supposed to turn the engine till it goes on and off (though for diagnostic sake I can see doing this).
Both timing methods are essentially the same and you'll find when checked with a timing light it should be spot on to what the manual calls for. I would learn the static method first and then take on trying to find the 2 little dots in the hole while the engine is running (which is almost impossible if your timing is way off). A timing light will tell you however if your timing is erratic (indicating a problem). | ||||
| Buellistic |
Why would anyone spend $30.00 for a TIMING LITE when everything you need to set the timing is already on the motorcycle ??? LaFayette | ||||
| Gearheaderiko |
More stellar advice! Dynamic timing is the preferred method of timing and not just because the Buell Repair Manual says so. If you've set the static timing correctly and if all ignition components are working properly, then the timing "should be" correct. But you'll never really know unless you check the timing with a light. You might even get a timing light with a tach (to set the idle correctly after adjusting the timing).Maybe a light with an advance/retard so you can see just how many degrees its off from the stock setting. His bike runs now, thats good enough for the backyard mechanic. Save the accuracy for the professionals! Buellistic:making Honda riders out of Buell riders since 1997!  Happy Now? | ||||
| Buellistic |
Your "BUELL*******" sounds good to the un-trained and the un-knowing ... LaFayette (Message edited by gearheaderiko on August 18, 2007) |
