| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
The spacer or shims go under the spring seat (which is under the stop ring) replacing the stock spacer or on top of the stock spacer (shims). The stop ring (circlip,snap ring, retaining ring,etc.) holds the "spring seat" (fork tube plug-usually a large threaded bolt or plug holding the spring in compression-but Buell used a snap ring instead) down. Be careful not to lose the stop ring-it will fly out and disappear if you're not careful-and its very unlikely to be in stock at the HD/Buell dealer (and even harder to order). | ||
| Sarodude |
My stock S2 WP forks (a tube frame bike last I checked) have compression and rebound on both legs. -Saro | ||
| Buellistic |
Check a 1997 Model BUELL ... In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
The Blast manuals state clearly that the same amount of oil for both sides, and parts - they are interchangable except for the brake carier on the right - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Cobalt60 |
Oil weight controls the rebound and compression damping. It won't help much/any with fork diving. Changing the springs for a higher rate is the best solution to eliminate dive. Second best is to preload the fork using spacers. I'm not sure of the availability of aftermarket Blast springs, but odds are there is a different model that's interchangeable. | ||
| Ezblast |
Progressive and Works sell kits! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"Oil weight controls the rebound and compression damping. It won't help much/any with fork diving". Not true. Compression damping works to regulate the forks resistance from compressing. If you use a heavier weight oil it will increase the resistance to compress thereby also decreasing dive. If you use heavier springs it will also reduce dive or increase compression resistance, but if you use very thin oil, it will bottom out very easily. The idea of tuning a fork is to keep all things in a balance for the type of riding you are doing. "Stiff springs and lightweight oil or soft springs and heavyweight oil can yield almost identical ride results on the street." -the big difference will be in SAG or ride height. | ||
| Mabueller |
EZ, I see you run fork braces on both your bikes. How meaningful are they to actual handling aside from S/S brake line issues. So for example, meaningful on a stock bike? | ||
| Xgecko |
depends on your weight and riding style...if you are light and or you don't flog the hell out of your blast well you probably don't need a fork brace. I however run about 200lbs and I ride pretty hard...though my engine is stock, I have aftermarket intake and exhaust. I also have works springs in the front but it was noticable to me when I disconnected the brace while doing some other work recently. I can't imagine riding regularly without the brace. As a side note if you are heavier then upgrades to your suspension will do a lot more to improve you riding experience than engine work will (though it's a lot more fun to do engine stuff). About $300 for springs, a brace and a shock (like one of ralphs) will be money very well spent for getting you through backroads in a more enjoyable manner. (Message edited by xgecko on November 04, 2006) | ||
| Swampy |
Its amazing that fron forks work so well without them LOL! There is ALOT of sideways loading in corners when you are scraping pegs. I don't have fork braces on either of mine yet. And when you are in corners the front feels like it is hunting, I mean don't get me wrong, I love the way these bikes handle, but there is room for improvement, thats why they are so much fun. | ||
| Ezblast |
Yes the front handling has less shakes and is more balanced. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
OK - a review on the works suspension: 1st the front and rear: I have both on the black bike and once you dial it in you have a really solid feeling bike under you at higher speeds in the corners. Gone are any hi speed wiggles and the bike really feels planted in the turns with quick direction changes not upsetting the handling at all. Everything is a bit stiffer though and you'll notice that right away, however, nothing jarring and the bike is a tad bit higher as well in feeling because of less shock compression. I'm very pleased with the total kit. 2nd using the front Works kit with the stock rear shock. To really work this kit right you would need to add a spacer to the rear shock spring to stiffen it up a bit - a regular person would use a 1/4" spacer and a big guy like myself uses a 1/3" spacer. Also using the regular 10 wt fork oil makes the front too harsh for me, so I changed out to the racing 7.5. The red bike is now also much more planted in corners, however, the ride is a bit harsher. The difference in feel is that the total kit balances everything out front and rear - providing a very stable feeling at hi speed handling, while just using the front kit and shimming the rear adds hi speed stability, it adds a bit harsher ride as well, however, since the red bike is the incity bike - I can live with that and enjoy the handling improvements on SF's twisty streets - and it will make a better loaner for adventures in the Bay area. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Joey |
How much damage will this kit do to my wallet, and where do I get it? | ||
| Ezblast |
Front alone - 110 bucks, front and rear - around 850 - Works actually lowered their price from their book price by about a hundred bucks - still pricey though. Took an hour to install and a couple of days to dial in. http://www.worksperformance.com/ GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Themagster |
OK – so now it starts. After 29,300 miles of relatively problem free riding my Daytona trip was met with certain challenges. 20 miles out of town I pulled to a stop sign and the motor died. It restarted but wouldn’t stay running & my husband noticed gas pouring out of the air cleaner. He took air cleaner off and fiddled with the carb a bit – it started, was idling very poorly, headed back home. 5 miles up the road the Blast was running just fine. Idle was back to where it should be, restarted repeatedly OK. (Gunk in the main jet likely culprit). Turned back around (and with fingers crossed) headed back towards the beach. On the way home I noticed the back end was bottoming out on bumps, wasn’t bad, just a bit rougher than I ever noticed before – my husband is pretty sure the rear shock is just completely worn out. I have called HD - $145 for the shock (sticker shock for labor to put it on). I am thinking I could learn a little more about motorcycle mechanics and watch my husband do the job himself. Any advice for the task ahead? Also – along these lines – does anyone know what I can expect out of the motor, frame, etc. after this number of miles? I am planning a long summer journey again... Thanks for all your help – I truly do appreciate your expertise, advice and input. | ||
| Ezblast |
Replacing the rear shock is easy, just follow the manual. I'd lube your cables, and replace the fork oil as well - and she should just keep humming along, change your primary and regular oils as well, and do primary adjustment and clean your air filter, add a new plug and plug wire, replace your intake boot and carry a spare - that should just about do it. GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on March 13, 2007) | ||
| Swampy |
Gas pouring out of the carb....Float could have stuck or the needle and seat could have had a minor malfunction. Replace the needle and seat probably about 20 buck, try any one of our wonderful sponsers or any number of after market suppliers. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Takes about 15 minutes to R & R a rear shock. Use a floor jack under the muffler and remove the rear tire hugger/fender/belt guard. Real easy. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
Hey, What are you guys using to compress that tiny little spring for the rear shock? Yes I realize a spring compressor, but where do I get one thats small enough? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Jprovo custom made one. EZ bought another from somewhere. www.baronscustom.com carried one (but I never found out if it would fit). Progressive suspension makes shock tools that WONT work! I know this doesnt help much but I do know the professional shock tools are out there, I've just never been able to find out who sells them. Some other automotive type spring tools can be adapted as well as the tool for small Mcpherson type strut assemblies. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.baronscustom.com/catalog/display/571/in dex.html Dont know if it works! | ||
| Sking1973 |
Just curious what my options are for getting a bit more ride height out of my bike. I would like to just stick with rear mods if possible. With the new Jardine can underneath, clearance has become an issue. | ||
| Ezblast |
Custom Corbin, Hagon http://www.davequinnmotorcycles.com/cgi-bin/webc/H AGON_MONOSHOCKS.html?sid=3gS8mU1U6CTJBZn-011063110 78.8c or Works http://www.worksperformance.com/ are also alternatives - I plan on trying a Hagon in the near future for the red bike and compare it directly with the Works on the Black. From the Euro groups though the Hagon is thought well of over your average stock shock. A slightly modified Seca 919 shock is also an alternative. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Xgecko |
Not a Seca 919 shock a SecaII shock it's from the 750 sold in the 90's not the 650 sold in the 80's. I just got mine and plan on getting it modded next month | ||
| Ezblast |
Merci' | ||
| Sking1973 |
Well, let me ask you this question. My bike just turned over 10,000 miles, do you think I would get me height out of a new Buell shock? OR are there any mods that can be done to the stock shock? | ||
| Ezblast |
No | ||
| Xgecko |
what EZ said | ||
| Sking1973 |
Dang. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
YES, there are things you can do to the rear shock for more ride height! You can shim up the rear spring for more preload (essentially what you thought would accomplish with a new shock). That would increase the ride height (unless you are so light right now that the suspension doesnt compress-then there'd be no change). It would also bottom out less easily. Takes a 1/4" shim for 1" height at the rear. This will also give you a harsher ride which may be beneficial in handling. It will also depend on what seat you use as to how rough the ride will be (low, high and Corbin seat position makes a big difference in ride quality). It would also be advised to match the front suspension to the rear. A stiff rear and mushy front makes for a poor handling bike. Buellistic has posted an easy way to measure out front and rear suspension on Badweb (but I cant remember where). Suffice to say 1/4"spacer =1" at the rear. 1"spacer = 1" at the front. You can also re position the rear shock by way of new mounting holes. Whether that would be accomplished through drilling or addition of mounting plates, I dont know (never had a need to research). Should also be noted that jacking up the rear to high can adversely affect the belt. |
