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Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, September 12, 2010 - 11:39 am: | 
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The fluid is still full after gravity bleeding it?
You gave the pedal a few 'pumps'?
It should be gravity bled until you at least replaced the fluid.
Are you getting any movement at the caliper?
Its a 2002 right?
Chances are the rubber parts have shrunk from sitting and the master cylinder bore may also be corroded, but changing anything is pointless until you've tried to bleed the system (and old fluid isnt going to help much).
At some point when hope is lost, then you can pump the pedal like crazy and see if it gets better or at least moves the caliper. The reason you want to avoid doing this is because there may be a lot of corrosion in the master cylinder and fluid from sitting and you'll just tear up the rubber seals (ruining it).
Is there fluid leaking anywhere? (wet)
Blast Front brakes are notorious for having difficulty being bled. I havent found that to be the case with rears. |
Rusty7983
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2010 - 09:43 pm: |
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i finally used my vacuum pump to bleed it. for what ever reason it had air, its gone now. the pedal is at a nice height. the last time i didn't try hard enough. |
Robi
| | Posted on Wednesday, September 29, 2010 - 11:47 pm: |
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my attempt at the rear didn't work. Nothing moved. So I just capped it back up. How long is the DOT 4 good for once it's been opened? |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Thursday, September 30, 2010 - 12:05 am: |
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A long time.
EZ |
Fathermike
| | Posted on Sunday, July 24, 2011 - 11:55 pm: |
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ok so i finally took off my y arms which meant relocating the rear brake pedal & cylinder. here's the setup.
problem is, the brake no longer works.
 |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, July 25, 2011 - 12:51 am: |
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Replace line.
EZ |
Fathermike
| | Posted on Monday, July 25, 2011 - 06:42 am: |
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Ahhhhh!
Seriously? I was super careful not to crimp or kink it. It still bleeds too. Aw crap. Guess I'm going to lose my brake light switch then cuz I'm not putting another rigid line on there. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2011 - 10:57 pm: |
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It would seem to me the brake no longer works because the master cylinder is upside down? I get the point where it should still work. But I'd flip it over and bleed it and see what happens. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 26, 2011 - 11:02 pm: |
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Sorry, but the picture begs the question "do you really ride normally like that"? My nads hurt just looking at it!
Or are you going drag racing?
Or you're really tall? |
Fathermike
| | Posted on Sunday, July 31, 2011 - 02:58 pm: |
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sorry to hurt your nads eric but ya, i ride like that & no, i'm not tall, just 5'10". somehow it feels more natural to me than having my knees up in my armpits like i'd get with rearsets being higher & more forward. speaking of forward, i tried a long threaded rod thru the front engine mount for when i want to sit upright. it worked ok until the vibration snapped the bolt. still was a pain setting it up so i don't advise for future blasters even if they use stronger bolts.
back to the brake cylinder, i wondered about the cylinder being upside down but how can that matter if it's sealed hydraulics? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, July 31, 2011 - 03:10 pm: |
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Well, its not 'completely' sealed and there is the matter of air. Its going to travel up and normally that would be up the line to the reservoir. In your case, up is the top of the master cylinder (yes, it should travel out to the caliper but...). If it were bled prior to being turned upside down, then turning upside down could be okay.
The fronts are notoriously problematic for bleeding. I've never had a problem with the rears (though, I've never really cared much about the rears!). |
Gp916
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 05:56 pm: |
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Bought a used 2001 Buell Blast. Bike ran great...everything worked fine. About a month after buying the bike, decided to bleed the front brakes as the fluid was looking a little dirty. Drained and then replaced with new Dot4 oil. Replaced two washers on the banjo bolt. Attached hose and bottle to bleed plug at the caliper. Closed bleed plug, began pumping brake lever. Held down brake lever, opened bleed plug momentarily and let oil/air bubbles flow into bottle. Closed bleed plug, pumped brake lever, held brake lever, opened bleed plug, repeat. No matter how many times I did this I would never build any pressure in the brake. After a few day of frustration attempting this over and over, decided to buy a new master cylinder. Bought a new master cylinder from http://www.surdyke.com
While waiting for the new master cylinder attempted to take apart the existing MC to see if the seals had dried up as suggested here:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/575596.html?1277608417
Tips on the Snap ring pliers I had were not long enough to get the snap ring out. The rubber collar on the MC was torn in the process. For the future, Does anyone have any advice on how to get the rubber collar off w/o ripping it?
Received new MC and installed it. Connected brake line at master cylinder. opened bleed plug at caliper. filled master cylinder with fluid. allowed to gravity bleed. no go. Closed bleed plug, began pumping brake lever. Held down brake lever, opened bleed plug momentarily and let oil/air bubbles flow into bottle. Closed bleed plug, pumped brake lever, held brake lever, opened bleed plug, repeat. No matter how many times I did this I would never build any pressure in the brake. Seems like I get very minimal oil flow from master cylinder outlet. Oil is clear and no particles from plunger seals.
also primed brake line by opening bleed plug at caliper and filling line with fresh fluid until it ran clear and without bubbles. closed bleed plug and connected it at the master cylinder. then topped off fluid and sealed master cylinder cover by tightening the screws. then i pumped sever times to try to build pressure, it never built any pressure. i then force bleed by pressing lever in and holding while i loosen and then tighten the bleeder. little bubbles sputter out and a light drip of fluid but still no pressure. the line eventually cleared out the fluid i primed it with and the reservoir loses very minimal fluid.
In the end, I can bleed my brakes, oil travels through the whole system, I just don't ever build ANY pressure. I have made sure that everything is nice and tight, so I don't think I have an air leak in the lines. Must be the MC, but it is brand new?!?!? Please help, as surdyke does not take returns/exchanges on buell parts (should have read the return policy before purchasing). I have bought part from them before with no problems. I am going to email surdyke and plead for an exchange but any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated. I just got the damn bike and I can't ride,,,it's killing me!!
Also, would anyone know if this rebuild kit would work on the blast?
http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/17190.html
Thanks again |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 06:47 pm: |
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If you just change the master cylinder fluid once a year you will not have any brake problems ...
BRAKE FLUID Class 101, just PM me for your copy and yes EZ "i" am sending you a copy ...
Iam Noone' |
Swampy
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 09:08 pm: |
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Hydraulics is like sex, you pump fluid in and it either swells up of drains away....
Anyways, If you are getting fluid to the caliper, try gravity bleeding. When the fluid starts coming out and the bubbles slow down. close the bleeder and pump the brake lever slowly, take a small hammer and lightly tap the caliper, open the bleeder to bleed the air then close the bleeder and pump up the brake lever.
What happens sometimes is little air bubbles stick to the inside of the hoses and caliper and the light tapping will disloge them and bring them to the top of the caliper. Pump the lever slowly releasing slowly so the fluid does not "open and suck air from the top of the master cylinder.
Good luck |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 10:05 pm: |
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FWIW: Front Blast brakes are notoriously difficult to bleed. Some have had success using a "Mighty Vac" vacuum pump (no, not post-t-vac).
If you can get ANY kind of pressure or just enough brake lever to be usable, LEAVE IT ALONE. It will come back to normal all by itself usually within a week of bleeding. The more you play with it the worse it will get.
If it worked before you changed the fluid it was probably fine except: Its really a bad idea to completely squeeze the lever all the way down on an old brake system. The part of the cylinder that rarely see's the 'plunger' and seals is the part that corrodes first. Pull the lever all the way in and you've just run those perfectly good seals through potentially a bunch of corrosion and possibly damaged them.
Again, I've spent hours and hours bleeding the front brakes and I've used every trick in the book to no avail (except the Might Vac, never lend yours out!) and I've bleed A LOT of brakes. Gravity bleed until you get some pressure then as long as the brakes work a little, it'll come back on its own.
Concur with Swampy, stressing to pump the lever s l o w l y. |
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