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Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, May 21, 2007 - 08:57 pm: |
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The oil cooler looks just like the one on my Shovelhead! Why not just tap into the stock oil lines and delete the oil filter mount? It sure looks like the ProSeries exhaust was designed to go around the oil cooler! Nice job, how about a pic of the whole bike? I'd like to hear how the oil breather catch can and filter work out for you after some miles. Your profile says you replaced oil pump. Just the gear, stock replacement or high performance pump? PS thanks for the detailed oil cooler write up. |
Harsblast
| Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 07:30 am: |
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the oil cooler is the most popular one that fits most applications i think that you need to be on the pressure side of the pump to get proper circulation with any other exhaust system even stock, the oil cooler will be too long to fit and to mount it in another position is kind of difficult i just upgraded to the high performance pump do you think that i should wrap the header to keep some of the heat away from the oil lines? |
Mar_wilmington
| Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 05:59 pm: |
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Swampy yes I did, thanks. Chaparral had the best price of all the resellers I talked to so you were dead on. (URL: chaparral-racing . com) Good looking mod with the custom oil cooler Harsblast and the more I see that tac mounted the more I like the idea. Does it fit behind a stock fairing? Nice work! Is IXU01-27 the part number for the proper temp iridium plug to replace the oem plug in the Blast? (Message edited by mar_wilmington on May 22, 2007) |
Harsblast
| Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 07:24 pm: |
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here is the pic gearheaderiko
i will try to mount the stock fairing and find out for you mar_wilmington |
Mar_wilmington
| Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 08:21 pm: |
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Wow your bike is looking very clean and thanks for checking out the stock fairing with the tac for me. If it fits can you snap a pic or two. I'd personally go ahead and wrap the header just to be safe in the long run. I'm with Gearheaderiko it does fit very nicely thanks to the pro series exhaust. (Message edited by mar_wilmington on May 22, 2007) |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 10:18 pm: |
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Mar - yes - that is the correct plug - Har - looks sweet! GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Mabueller
| Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2007 - 10:38 pm: |
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>I was wondering if anyone has tried or had anything to say about the Blast Exhaust Torque Stuffer? -At what speeds/RPM does the stuffer effect performance? |
Mar_wilmington
| Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2007 - 12:44 am: |
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Everything I've read and been told about torque stuffer over the last week leads me to believe that it has only one "performance" application which is on HD's with after market pipes and the baffles removed. For people who don't want to mess with re-jetting they can put this stuffer in the exhaust port to increase back pressure enough that the bike doesn't backfire because it's running so lean. But it slows rev's so only good in low rpm applications and also seems to have the added issue of causing a good deal of heat buildup in the head. But my knowledge on the subject is very limited so I could be wrong... P.S. EZ does that mean that the NGK IRIDIUM racing plug #DCPR7EIX.X2 will work? Not sure I have these conversions down. (Message edited by mar_wilmington on May 23, 2007) |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2007 - 02:04 am: |
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Dash fits with the stock fairing! You dont have to wrap the pipe. I've seen other bikes with stock oil cooler & lines running that close. Could use just a heat shield, but if you wrap the pipe, its a good idea not to wrap just one section, do the whole pipe. Only bad things to say about the torque cone (for Blast applications). The torque cone concept is a little more complicated than what you state, but you're not completely wrong or right. Its a valid part in the right application. Just adding it to any old exhaust is pointless. Do a search on Badweb for some mind blowing exhaust discussions! |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2007 - 02:12 am: |
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Pic of dash with stock fairing! http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/103493.html?1101171048 |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, May 23, 2007 - 03:17 pm: |
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That is the racing plug. GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on May 24, 2007) |
Mar_wilmington
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2007 - 08:04 am: |
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Thanks for putting up the link for me Gearheaderiko. I'm Surprised I didn't run across that thread when I searched the board. EZ does that mean it will run too hot for day to day riding? Trying to save some money if possible and the NGK is about $10 cheaper where I'm looking then the IXU01-27 which is about $35. BTW Harsblast you've got mail. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2007 - 11:43 am: |
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My experience has been to keep it in the mid to upper rpms and the bike jetted correctly and you'll be fine. Do that and the plug will last forever - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, May 24, 2007 - 01:34 pm: |
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"i" have never had any problems with the OEM spark plug gaped at 0.030 inch !!! Could "i" be doing something wrong ??? In BLASTing LaFayette |
Ezblast
| Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 12:20 am: |
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Yes - it won't last forever. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Mar_wilmington
| Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 03:14 pm: |
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So EZ you've recommended Iridium plugs as a good idea for the performance minded blaster which I definitely agree with. I'm currently looking at NGK Iridium racing plug (DCPR7EIX.X2) or the Iridium Plug (IXU01-27) both of which fit and I've been told are the proper temp plug for the Blast. Is the proper gap still 0.030? Also after I move to a velocity stack filter on the venturi and remove the air filter and internal wall of the intake housing will I need to rejet or can I put it off till I have the money for the Jardine RT1 exhaust without it running too lean? TiA (BTW my jetting is stock, so is my exhaust and intake atm) |
Xgecko
| Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 04:04 pm: |
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Mods at either end (intake or exhaust) usually require some changes in Jetting. It's easy and cheap to do (jets cost less then $15) Do shim you needle too (take the needle off and take to a good hardware store to find washers that are the right size) it makes a huge difference on throttle response and removes a hesitation at 3K. It surprised me how much of a difference it made for something so simple |
Diablobrian
| Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 04:23 pm: |
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I think, if I remember right the washers to use for shimming the needles are #4 or #6, but I could be wrong. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 06:49 pm: |
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"i" used two #4 flat washers from a model airplane store ... In BLASTing LaFayette |
Mar_wilmington
| Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 07:17 pm: |
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I had planned to use two #2 washers to shim the needle and get as close to .05" as I can (2x #2 washer equal about .042"). Which I think is right for my final setup. But my current plan was to go straight to 45/175 after doing EZ's mod to make a stackish setup out of the airbox intake venturi (2nd best behind pro-series type I think) and getting a NGK iridium racing plug (DCPR7EIX.X2). Then as soon as it becomes financially viable add a Jardine RT1 exhaust. Then I'd be done... for awhile till my need for pro series cams becomes overwhelming Any feedback on this plan is much appreciated. |
Xgecko
| Posted on Friday, May 25, 2007 - 08:16 pm: |
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there is no need to buy a Pro Series, you can build as good an intake for considerable less than a Pro Series can be bought for |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, May 26, 2007 - 12:15 am: |
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CORRECT SPARK PLUG GAP is .038 - .043 |
Mar_wilmington
| Posted on Saturday, May 26, 2007 - 09:42 pm: |
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Thanks GearHeadEriko for the correct gap. Ya I never really planned to goto a pro-series just using it for a reference Xgecko. Mainly because it's to expensive also to a lesser extent b/c I'm not sure I like the big gap in the frame yet and having to stabilize the pro series. It all adds up to way to much money for me atm. ATM I can do EZ's intake mod to make the stock venturi a stack for all of $10 Maybe goto a straight stack later we'll see. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, May 26, 2007 - 10:23 pm: |
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The race plugs have a constant non adjustable gap that is much tighter - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Buellistic
| Posted on Saturday, May 26, 2007 - 11:51 pm: |
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Ezblast: Maybe that is why "i" gap my spark plug at 0.030 ??? My 1965 Harley-Davidson/Aermacchi SPRINT CRTT Road Racer had one of those type spark plugs ... You could close the gap, "BUT" you could not open it up ... In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on May 26, 2007) |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2007 - 12:22 am: |
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The plug has a pure Irridium core electrode - lasts forever. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Xgecko
| Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2007 - 07:21 am: |
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Mar if an EZ series intake is what you want that is a choice; another choice is to build a Ray/Tony series and it'll cost you about $45 including a K&N filter(the Filter is the expensive part). Ours is what Buell copied for the ProSeries |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2007 - 11:36 am: |
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Xgecko, Pictures please! |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2007 - 01:02 pm: |
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So, EZ, what exactly is the gap on the Iridium spark plug? |
Xgecko
| Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2007 - 03:48 pm: |
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OK here are two photos of the Ray/Tony Series intake. Please excuse the dirt and grime. The bottom of the Kuyrikan spacer is tapped 1/4 20 for attachment of the Brace....it ain't pretty but it works
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