| Author | Message | ||
     Gearheaderiko |
Swampy: thanks for helping! EZ: Well I'm sure it going to be a learning experience. I would start at the flasher.You can work either direction from where there is no power or trace from where there is power to where it stops. I'm going to assume you blew a new flasher and arent just playing around with an old one. Working with already suspect parts can drive you nuts. Also check to be sure a recently installed bulb is the correct bulb and is installed correctly or that the bulb socket is still good (not broken or loose). Thats a real easy way to cause a short. Hope that helps some. | ||
| Swampy |
EZ, Check your stator output now. It should be 28+ volts AC. As far as the blinkers go, if the right side is not blinking and just blows the fuse, it looks like you have a short to ground. I would begin by unplugging the front or rear in turn to determine which end is giving you the problem. If you unplug both and it still blows the fuse, unplug the speedo feed, to check if it is in the speedo indicator. You need to check the wires as they thread into the turn signal stems as they are metal and have sharp edges. Oh yeah, I forgot to mention the handlebar switch, if it is all still haywire after doing all that, remove the switch assembly from off the handle bar and try it that way you will be isolating the handle bar switch from ground. | ||
| Ezblast |
I got a min. of 38 V ac across the stator - 48 at 2000rpms to 38 at 1000rpms- so this means a bad regulator? Found the problem on the red - bent pin - fixed - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Swampy |
Check out the connections to the regulator first, they could be corroded. The great thing is you have two bikes, just trade out the regulators to check your diagnosis! I believe it is the same regulator as a Sportster, | ||
| Ezblast |
Cool - I'll check - Thank you! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
OK - installed the regulator, cleaned up contact points with a very fine file - got 12.8 across the battery charging at 2000 rpms and up - is this good? Book says I should be looking for 13 - however, I hear the Pro-series ignition has a draw on the system - rode to work to see if it will charge - will see if battery is still at charge when I get home this evening - if no loss then fine, however, my red bike puts out 13+ easily - so am I looking at the Stator or is something else impeding my charging system? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
What is the static voltage? Engine off, voltage across the battery? All you have to see is the voltage go up from what it is just sitting. Typically the voltage just sitting is 12.75, so maybe your voltage regulator saw full charge and cut out or opened the circuit to keep from overcharging the battery(lead/acid) You could run/draw your battery down a little by leaving your headlight on for a while to get your battery voltage down, then start it and see what the voltage is running. | ||
| Ezblast |
12.82 - ok - I'll give it a go this evening. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Should be 13+ volts. If you swapped out the regulators and both bikes still read the same, then the stator or rotor would be the next guess, as long as you dont have any other wiring or battery problems. Sorry, If I had the time and a running Blast, I'd be able to help you out. (One currently has an ignition problem which I havent had the time to look at, the other has a new top end which isnt broken in yet). I'm also leaving in 3 days for NYC. | ||
| Ezblast |
I'm going to try switching regulators with the red this weekend - its known as good - I now suspect the stator - what else needs replacing with a stator? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
EZ, You haven't kept us informed on your progress! You are probably busy riding! | ||
| Buellistic |
Swampy: EZ may be still looking for that "LAST ELECTRON" ??? By the way, check www.weather.com ,zip 33584 ... In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on February 12, 2007) | ||
| Swampy |
"Feels Like 64" You suck! LOL! | ||
| Swampy |
The temp rose into the 20s here over the weekend and it felt like a tropical heatwave! I was out antique shopping and some teenage girls wannabe hoodlums were walking around with a pantleg rolled up, and I'm thinking, I am getting too old for this anymore..... | ||
| Ezblast |
Riding the red - the black is being prepared for tear down - will do the stator and the drum, perhaps the shift fork - are the shift forks on the primary side? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
The only thing you can do with the primary off is check the detent plate, the detent pawl and the shift drum/detent pawl hold down bolt. Oh yeah, you can adjust the shift.....whats its name....um...I'll look and get back with you... So you diagnosed it to the stator? You won't need a new hub or drum unless the magnets got loose. Make sure when you put it all back together that you champer the plate that holds the wires down and away from the hub. Then gob a bunch of silicone in there to glue it all down and keep it from vibrating through the shielding. | ||
| Sportymark |
Anybody know the procedure to install XB cams into the Blast? I know the ignition module is clocked slightly differently, I might have to do a custom timing cup I hear? | ||
| Ezblast |
The cams will be marked 1E, 2E, 3E, 4E. 2E is your intake cam and 1E is your exhaust cam. Use the new pinion gear and install per the book. To cut the second window in the timing cup, position the motor at tdc on the compression stroke (rotate the motor forward, watch the intake valve close, then watch through the timing plug hole for the vertical line on the flywheel). Now put the ignition plate in place in the center of it's adjustment range and note the rotational position of the sensor. The idea is to put the window such that it's leading edge is just arriving at the timing plate sensor when you get to TDC. Bear in mind that the timing cup turns counter-clockwise! Start by cutting a small window, a little too early, then look at the base timing ... the ignition instructions tell you how but basically with the motor at TDC you turn the plate clockwise and watch the LED and when it just goes out, that's your base timing. Continue to widen the slot toward the sensor until the base timing is coming out in the middle of the plate's adjustment range. Now widen it in the other direction until it's the same width as the factory timing slot. Now you have two choices ... you can either just run the ignition in twin mode with two timing windows, or you can figure out a way to fill in the factory timing window in which case you run the ignition in single mode. If you choose to plug the factory window, just make sure it has no runout that can damage the sensor. I just ran mine with two windows and in twin mode. It was handy for me because I was using a tach that was designed for a twin, so doing it this way made the tach work. I did dyno it both ways though and there was zero difference on the dyno, the wasted spark wasn't hurting a thing. However, you may lose your tps input and auto choke output when you run it in twin mode. The tps input can be replaced by a VOES though. In my testing, I found that the XB cams work excellent on the Blast, significantly better than B70's (and miles better than B50's which are really mild cams). Plus they have excellent valvetrain dynamics. I got more power out of the N9's but that's a pretty broad grind with lots of overlap and all the problems that go with that. That quote is from Aaron Wilson, you'll need better guides, seals, and springs for that cam - Enjoy! From Aaron W. - further info can be found in the TKV - in the Engine 515cc http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/83121.html?1063717728 GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If you're using the SE XL'04 cams (XB grind for XL's) they bolt right in with a stock Blast timing cup even though the timing cup notch for the Blast & XL are in different places. The real problem (I assume as I've havent actually checked, yet) is that the XB cam uses a timing cup notch that doesnt put it in reach of the rotation of the ignition module. An SE module rotates further, but I dont know if its enough. However...Aaron Wilsons shop does sell a Hurricane timing cup (appx. $50) that they said they could get me in blank so I could custom cut my own timing cup (I called about a month ago). Its also my understanding that all you really need to do is change the valve springs to run the XB cam. Everything else should work just fine. The XB cams are a project sitting on the work bench which would probably be installed by now if it weren't for a bad SE module and a race engine that needed immediate attention. Kudo's to EZ for pulling that info out of the archives.  (Message edited by gearheaderiko on March 06, 2007) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS I like to take a picture of the cams before I pull them out since you'll be installing the cams in an engine where you may have difficulty in finding a picture of how the timing marks are supposed to end up. As I remember it, one of the timing marks could go either way. Glad I had a picture! Also install the rotor bolt as per the manual or it can come loose. | ||
| Joey |
Can we get a picture of the modified timing cup? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
A picture would look just like a Blast timing cup. | ||
| Joey |
I'm hoping for a visual that shows where the gap used to be and where it is now. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I cant help you there. The best I can do is a side by side picture of the XB cam and a Blast cam,showing the notches. I could install the timing cup on each. If that somehow helps, I'll dig the cams out this weekend. | ||
| Joey |
Don't worry about the timing cup issue. I'll make sure timing is good before I go above idle. Does anybody know exactly what is going on on pin 5 of the ignition module when the bank angle sensor trips and when the sidestand interlock trips? I'm reading the book and it seems to say 0.2 to 0.8 volts means run, and something else means don't run. Would 0.0 volts mean stop, or run? At what voltage should the ignition stop running? 0.9 or 12 volts or what? I'd just grab my meter and check myself, but I can't find it.  (Message edited by joey on March 18, 2007) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
This is what I know: The bank angle sensor is a 'smart switch'. Once tripped it will not return power to the ignition unless the bike (ignition switch) is turned off. I think the sidestand switch is a much simpler unit. Without going through the wiring diagram again, I cant answer the whole question. (sorry, I just dont have the time today). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS I would just say bypass both switches, but I know you're working on something much more ambitious! | ||
| Joey |
Update: I bypassed the switches. I went to start the Blast with the stock ignition. I'm completely bewildered. When I put it in, I could not back the timing off to where it's supposed to be. I turned it as far as it would go with the mounting screws still in, and the LED still comes on too soon. Went to start it, and NO SPARK! Ok, I give up on that for now. My ignition prototype is assembled and ready to go. I just have to mount the non-Blast hall-effect sensor. Software is in work. The processor I'm using is significantly more powerful than what is needed, but the cost difference is only about $1, so I'm sticking with overkill. | ||
| Joey |
Another ignition timing question!!! When I see the two timing marks that look like two shallow holes, that is where the LED first comes on. What about that straight notch that comes a little later? Is that 10 degrees advanced? I'm going by memory, and I'm not sure what I'm remembering. At an idle, is that notch what I'm supposed to see with a timing strobe? I need all the details I can get. I really want this thing to be running this weekend.  | ||
| Swampy |
When you rotate the crank forwards, the first mark you will see in the window is the timing mark, the second is the TDC mark. When you static time(engine not running)a Blast with the stock ignition, the proper way to do it is to set the LED to just go off as the TDC mark centers the window. The Ignition module does the rest. Now normally when you static time any other engine(car, boat, plane)you static time the spark event to occur as the timing marks lines up. So what is happening with the Blast is the module is processing backwards how much advance at a given rpm. |
