| Author | Message | ||
     Joey |
Front wheel bearing question: The bearings seem to be 40mm outer diameter, 17mm inner, at 5/8" thick. I don't want to wait a week or two for bearings, so I found a local place. The bearings are 11/16" thick, and have metal seals instead of plastic. Am I OK? Do I need to shave 1/16" on both sides of my wheel somewhere? | ||
| Tim |
Joey, I went out to my Blast and looked at the bearing ID etched on the outer race. They are a little corroded, but it looks like "62203-2RS1". Maybe someone else can verify. Tim | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The bearing shop should have a cross reference or spec chart? The bearing on my 2002 says SKF 6204-2RS1 | ||
| Joey |
I got the number. It is 62203-2RS1 alright. The size is 17mm bore, 40mm diameter, 16mm width. They are not available locally. The closest match I could get was 17.something mm thick, which equates to about 1/16 of an inch thicker. I decided to wait for the dealer to get the right one. Gearheaderiko: Is that your rear bearing? It's entirely too big for my front. I can get that one for $7.01 each plus shipping on the internet. The 62203-2RS1 costs $11.75 each plus $7 shipping... Waiting for my bearings really SUCKS! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Joey: that is the rear bearing number. I read the title of this thread and assumed rear wheel bearings. Sorry! | ||
| Swampy |
Rode the Big Kids Yellow Blast tonight, had a wheel hop at speeds over 70! I thought it might be the rear motor mount, isolator, or whatever is holding all that together back there, since I just changed the front isolator. I parked it up on some jack stands to get the rear wheel off the ground and found the brake side wheel bearing loose! I say COOL! Cheap fix! Too bad I didn't find it while I did the tire change. OH YEAH....9,880 miles on it! | ||
| Buellboy492 |
Swampy- just keep posting whenever you do something. Seems like I am just right behind you, having the same things go on my bike after you. Rocker box gasket, intake boot, isolator mount, rear tire... now I have to go look at wheel bearings. What am I looking for again??? I can put it up in jack stands with a rod through the axle... | ||
| Light_keeper |
Two questions. I have the rear wheel off to replace the tire. Bearings seem to be ok but a little dry and only a very slight movement side to side and spin freely. 1. Any way to repack them? 2. Is the slight side to side a problem as no movement is detected while the wheel is on the bike.  | ||
| Swampy |
The bearing races should be tight in the wheel. There should be no side to side movement of the bearing. The bearings should spin easily with no roughness. You should not attempt to regrease the bearings, only replace them, properly. (Message edited by swampy on September 20, 2005) | ||
| Jprovo |
I agree with Swampy, replace the bearings. James | ||
| Light_keeper |
Up Date: Had the bearing checked out and they are fine what I was not catching on to was the spacer inside was a little bit sloppy. Live and learn. Glad I had it checked out rather be safe than sorry. Thanks for all the input. | ||
| Tnthumper |
was coming home from dealer last night and started feeling a sort of wobble. got home and looked bike over and guess what? right side rear whell bearings are shot. the dang thing broke and threw about half of the ball beaqrings out. oh well demo days at dealer today and i w ill just ride thier buells all day and hope they have bearings in stock. how hard is it to change them? I have service manual. thanks for any help. john | ||
| Swampy |
The manual recommends special tools. I have used heat, and the correct sized, sockets and washers and threaded rod. The important thing is to remove and install the bearing straight, not to let it •••• c o c k (you can say shit? WTF?)in the hub bore, as the bore will distort and not hold the bearing tight. I use Red Locktite to install the new bearing. Also, heat on the hub from a hair dryer or heat gun to remove and install the bearing. | ||
| Tnthumper |
thanks swampy. how hard is it in comparison to changing wheel bearings on a car or pickup? now just have to wait for dealer toget parts. thanks again, john | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Slightly harder than car bearings, but will probably take less time. Cleaner too. Dont forget the bearing spacer! | ||
| Blake |
Strongly recommend using a higher viscosity Loctite retaining compound such as Loctite 641 (green color) for wheel bearing retention applications. It is specifically formulated for just this application (gap filling and retention of mating cylindrical parts). The various Loctite Thread Locker products, especially the high-strength/permanent ones (red Loctite compounds) may be problematic should the bearing ever require removal. Thread locking compound may also prove ineffective as it is lower viscosity (thinner, not formulated to fill gaps) and is designed to work best under extremely high contact stresses that are not present in a wheel bearing assembly. More info on Loctite products at... http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=19&layout=3 | ||
| Tnthumper |
Thanks alot guys i pulled it apart tonight just hate waiting on parts. john | ||
| Berkshire |
My right front wheel bearing probably needed to be replaced when I got the bike with 4200 miles on it. I noticed a rattling feeling going over bumps, like something was loose. I checked the steering head (fork) bearings, but they seemed okay. Since the bike was low-mileage and I was new to street riding, I just figured it was how bumps normally felt. Somewhere around 5000 I washed the bike and cleaned the wheels, and some thin rusty streaks appeared around the hub after riding, meaning the seal had started leaking. Also, I started feeling a slight jerk when applying or releasing the front brake, which I figured was just "grabby" pads (wrong!). Not being one to panic, I rode another 3500 miles while the symptoms gradually got worse. This morning I was looking at the front brake pads, and again noticed the rusty streaks. I pushed the side of the tire from one side and then the other. It moved back & forth about 1/4" sideways - dial indicator NOT needed! I decided to replace both front wheel bearings. The local dealership sells them for $19.50 each. I thought that was a bit much, so I changed over to the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it!" plan, and just bought one bearing. Oh well - at least it was IN STOCK! I'm a happy camper! I'll change the other one when I find a cheaper place to buy it, or when I change the front tire... (assuming the front tire ever wears out - it's still going strong at 8500!) My '00 P3 parts catalog shows p/n E6204 for the front AND THE REAR, which seems very strange, since the rear axle is a larger diameter. Must be a typo. The dealership gave me p/n E0001.T, which turned out to be an SKF p/n 62208-2RS1, made in S. Africa. Getting the old bearing out and installing the new one went very smoothly, even without any special tools. The inner part of the hub is large enough that the inner spacer can be pushed off-center about 1/16", which exposes the inside edge of the inner bearing race. Insert big screwdriver from opposite side, whack repeatedly with small hammer, old bearing comes out. Clean spacer and bearing cavity, apply thin film of grease. Get new bearing out of freezer, slide front axle thru new bearing, spacer, wheel, and bearing on other side. Using the axle helps keep the bearing straight, spacer aligned, and socket centered. Put large socket over axle head, against outer race of new bearing (not on seal!), and carefully drive it straight on in. If you've ever changed the front wheel bearings (keeping the same rotor) on a rear-drive car, it's similar to removing the outer bearing races from the rotor & installing the new ones - but without all the messy grease!!! Yaaay - now I can ride tomorrow! The other 3 bearings still feel tight at 8500 miles - don't know why the one wore out so early. It seems to be marked the same as the new one (hard to read). The actual slack in the bearing is only about .03" - just enough to make the seal leak, and allow the wheel to rattle over bumps. It still turns fairly smoothly, and has no signs of excessive heat, so I don't think my wheel really in danger of falling off or locking up any time soon... but I'll still feel MUCH better riding on the freeway tomorrow than I did today! | ||
| Ezblast |
My bearing cover is Blue! Are the new wheel bearings Blue covered on a Blast? GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Buellistic |
One thing about the BLAST is you can do "PREVENTIVE MAINTAINCE" and Re-grease The wheel bearings on the bike without dissasembly ... The wheels only have two bearings each ... "YES" sealed bearings can be re-greased/Re-packed !!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
When did we go to Blue wheelbearings? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
ONCE AGAIN (for those who may have missed this elsewhere): Greasing sealed bearings will likely corrupt the seal and lead to premature bearing failure (especially in wet weather or frequent washings). It will also likely lead to a 'maintenance free' item becoming a regular maintenance item. Repacking new sealed bearings may also lead to premature failure if you use the wrong grease. This type of "IMPROVISED" maintenance should be left to those with a) the proper tools b)a keen eye and a penchant regular inspection c) willing to experiment with non factory approved maintenance methods. I will say that this method has merit on older, abused, well worn, bearings with failing seals, a bike that has been sitting a long time or as a last resort if a new bearing is not available. Do so at your own risk ! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
EZ: did you ask for the package the bearings came in? | ||
| Ezblast |
No - such things are routinely thrown away, only parts removed are required by law, though - isn't a dealership supossed to use stock parts? When did Our bearings go Blue? What year? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think they went blue just before they went bad! LOL (sorry, couldnt resist). I thought maybe they gave you the old bearings inside the new bearing package. I dont know if they have to use OEM parts (did you want your bike next week or next month?) and I dont know when they went blue. | ||
| Buellistic |
Have a 97S3T with 93K as of the last ride ... Still have original OEM bearings ... Works for me !!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
The Blue ones - I was told by Buell customer service are a current part change over and are the latest greatest part for the Buell Blast - so I feel good about that at least. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
"i" want a different color(red) ... My BLAST is Black ... In BLASTing Lafayette | ||
| Xgecko |
OK what exactly is the part# for the rear bearings? BTW will that Honda part number work? My drive side rear started to disintegrate today...the dust shield came off and about 1/3 of the balls fell out. Kinda pisses me off as the weather is nice and I really enjoy commuting to work | ||
| Ezblast |
E6204 still is usable though I'm sure there is an added letter - just checked Chicago HD - their price 8 bucks, the rest of the world - 10 bucks - order 2 - as you know. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
