| Author | Message | ||
     Spacecapsule1 |
I recently installed my Nova MMB tach. Tested fine, but hadn't been for a ride yet. Went for a quick test ride today and on the way home, the needle started bouncing, like its loose or something. It was solid and smooth before, then suddenly it started bouncing. Below 2000 rpm it doesn't seem to bounce, but above that it does. I've been running the bike a lot off and on just to observe my handy work, and the needle never bounced, even when I reved the engine. But it just suddenly started on my way home from the test ride..... Any ideas? Thanks, Jason | ||
| Xgecko |
make sure all your wires are tied up and nothing is flapping in the breeze. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
Everything seems good. I soldered the wires in on the coil end, put in bullet connectors on the tach end so i can remove it if need be. The wires I soldered I wrapped in electrical tape then put them back into the wiring loom. I checked the crimps on the bullet connectors, they're good and tight. I checked the voltage, its good. After I wrote the first post, I went back out to check and the tach wasn't bouncing. I took off and got about a mile before the needle started bouncing again..... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Ditto, check for a bad connection. Also you might want to email 'Bitbear' (see other tach thread) and ask him how his Nova tach is doing. Anyway, when mine was bouncing, it was bad/worn connections. (Message edited by gearheaderiko on February 24, 2007) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS Welcome! | ||
| Xgecko |
my MMB bounced when the wires moved in the wind, after I ziptied everything down no bouncing. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
Thanks guys. I checked the wires, nothing is flapping. It'll bounce even if I'm just sitting still and rev the engine a bit. So, I went for a ride to do another test, after about half a mile, it started bouncing again. I stopped and started checking connections and stuff. I realized that when I jiggled the wires from the back of the tach, I could make the needle bounce. So..... looks like the gauge wiring might the faulty? What do you think about my recent discovery? Thanks, Jason | ||
| Ezblast |
loose wire inside tach or connection is loose at tach. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
Looks like I'll just call J&P and do an exchange. What a bummer. I've been waiting for this for a long time. Thanks for your help. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
I just want to be sure the problem isn't with my wiring, so here's what i did: I tapped into the 3 wires at the coil, 2-3 inches above the plug that plugs into the coil itself. I soldered in my wires. I didn't solder them in a tee fashion, but at an angle to keep the profile low and so they're pointing back in the direction i wanted to run them. This way they'd fit back into the wiring loom nice and neat. I seperately wrapped each soldered connection in electrical tape. Now I run them alongside the rest of the wiring, heading towards the front of the bike, on the right side. I tape the 3 wires together in various places the keep them neat and together. Now the wires are in behind the headlight. I melt some solder onto the wire ends to thicken them up so the crimp for the bullet connectors will be nice and tight. Crimp away! Now the crimp-on connectors are tight, no wiggles. That's it. That's the wiring from the coil to the front of the bike. Nice, neat, looks like it was always there. Now for the gauge: There's 3 wires for the gauge: ground, 12volts, signal. There's also 2 for the bulb: ground, and 12 volts. I wire the 2 ground wires together, and i wire the two 12volt power wires together, leaving me with the signal wire. Now I have 3 groups of wires that bullet connect with the other 3 from the coil. Now I'm done. Gauge works, smooth, then the needle starts bouncing after a bit. If I stop, It'll be smooth at idle, then above 2000rpm the needle starts bouncing again. Sometimes its a little bounce, sometimes its a really wild bounce. What do you folks think? return the gauge or my wiring is faulty? Jason (Message edited by spacecapsule1 on February 26, 2007) (Message edited by spacecapsule1 on February 26, 2007) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Personally, I'm not a big fan of soldering wires together. I've never seen very reliable connections that way (just cuz it soldered, doesnt mean its connected!). I just use crimp connectors. Wiggle all the connections. If the tach bounces, then you know that ones bad. If you wiggle the wires going into the tach, and you have isolated all the other wires from wiggling, and the tach bounces, then you'll know its the wiring inside the gauge. Tachs are seemingly very sensitive to bad connections. | ||
| Xgecko |
I build connectors daily, I love crimp ons but when it comes to life or death I solder (I work on US Navy Submarines), properly done it requires little actual solder. I prefer to heatshink over the top of it for oxidation prevention as opposed to tape but I've never has issues with any of my soldered connections going bad...the same cannot be said for crimped connections. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Xgecko (and this is not meant as being argumentative) but you are a professional ! Most of what I've seen is on old British cars & bikes, Harley's and VW's. While I think the repairs were meant with the best of intentions (being a foolproof repair), the outcomes were hardly. I've seen wires soldered and the connection can actually float up and down the wire and seemingly solid connections not conduct. To me, soldering is a whole lot more work with the outcome being suspect. Thats just my experience with other peoples work. Disclaimer: These are just general statements. When doing a complete re-wire or on other 'projects' different methods and techniques can and probably would be used. | ||
| Xgecko |
OK I understand what you mean but I learned to solder right handed (I'm a born lefty) as therapy while my left hand (arm) was in a cast for 2 years. I am anything but pretty about my wire-welding. My problem with crimp-on's on the Blast is that they rattle loose (my rear turn signals did this often). Soldering is simple, remember, flux lots, tin little and heat to weld them together, heatshrink to cover it up. BTW I agree with you about not trusting other people's work but then again I prefer to do things as best I can} (Message edited by Xgecko on February 28, 2007) |
