| Author | Message | ||
     Jackelfox |
Having issues with turn signals. on had broken off (before i bought the bike) and so all dont work? the broken one is replaced but i havent approached the issue of getting them to work yet, anything i ought to know going into it? the previous owner claimed he already checked the fuse... | ||
| Ezblast |
Replace fuse - check that all wires are connected correctly, if all that is ok - replace flasher. Don't feel bad - replacing a tach wire tonight - back lite is on, therefor it is the signal wire that has a crack - works fine standing still, but when moving - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Swampy |
Hey EZ, Did you have to replace a battery? | ||
| Ezblast |
Did that first,, however, it was the wire - now I have a 6yr old back up battery - wire fixed! Both bikes at a 100% - knock on wood - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Joey |
So there I was, following a link about a sprocket. The next thing I know, I'm contemplating with some degree of seriousness the possibility of fuel injection on my Blast. http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html If you poke around there, you'll also find that the upgraded version (faster processor) can also control ignition. This thing is completely programmagle, meaning you can plug your computer into it and set up every aspect of your ignition and fuel. If you fancy yourself a programmer, you can even rewrite the code as you see fit. I'm a bit of a scatterbrain. I may never go anywhere with this, or maybe I'll put it on my Blast this spring. I just don't know. It does look like a good investment for those who want to get an easy to tune fuel/air mixture or spark advance curve. I have not worked up the cost yet, but it looks like it could be a viable choice for ignition. You wouldn't have to get supporting parts for the fuel injection portion if you just wanted ignition. Anybody have a stock or broken ignition they could give away in case I pursue this? | ||
| Ezblast |
Interesting - let me know how it works out - I was talking about something like that 6 years ago, now its a reality - electronics are my weakness - not enough training in them, however, if somebody builds parameters, then I would be willing to give it a whirl also - even with a dyno its just so much educated guess work, something like that would take a lot of the guessing away from running. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
I have a bad ignition module. | ||
| Ezblast |
That sucks!  | ||
| Jlnance |
Joey, I am a programmer. If you end up building this and want to futz with the code, let me know. I'll be glad to help you. | ||
| Swampy |
No! I have an extra bad ignition module I could lend to the cause!...LOL! | ||
| Joey |
Swampy! I sent you my email address. I'm still doing research to see how much this whole thing is going to cost. It looks like the ECU will be between $150 and $300. I haven't priced the O2 sensor, throttle body, injector, etc. The ignition portion looks like a minimal increase in price, so if I do anything, I'll do it all. My wife tells me I have to fix the Jeep first, then I can play.  The new code that goes with the new version of hardware is written in C. If the CPU load is relatively small, this could be a good board for doing a bunch of extra stuff, like setting up a digital tachometer, fuel usage meter, etc. (Message edited by Joey on December 27, 2006) | ||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast: OLD BATTERIES: Everyone wants to run their "BATTERY" until they get the last electron out of it ... THAT USUALLY IS ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, IN THE MIDDLE OF NO WHERE BROKE DOWN ... "SO"(example) if you buy a New BLAST and the battery lasts 4 years, then replace the battery at 3 1/2 years ... "ALWAYS KEEP YOUR BATTERY ON A TRICKLE CHARGER WHEN NOT RIDING !!!" NEW BATTERIES: Always put it on a charger for 24 hours before putting it in service ... "YES", "i" know you are told or have been told that this is not necessary ... That is because the people that tell you this are in the business of selling batteries ... "EXAMPLE", if the battery has set on the shelf any length of time it will be at a capacity of 80% or less ... Lets go with the 80%, so you install the battery ... "NOW" the battery will never be over 80% because the electrical system will never float the battery ... "NOW" if the battery drains down to where it will not start and you put the battery on a charger it will not float at 80%, but 20% less at 60% ... Therefor you have a 60% battery !!! "IF" you put it on a charger for 24 hours before putting it in service and it floats at 100% it will last longer !!! "THINK ABOUT IT !!! In BUELLing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
So if you run your battery all the way down - how long should you charge it to regain a full charge on a 1 amp trickle charger, and will it regain a full charge? It is new. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast: A low amp 24 hours charge is the best ... If it is still a good battery 24 hours is enough ... A battery completely dischared will loose 20% of it's capacity, ie: 100% float will drop to 80% ... Going on down to where it will not start you motor, but the lights will work ... | ||
| Ezblast |
Well lights would shine, however, starter wouldn't turn - so is the battery no good? That would suck because then I've trashed a perfectly good battery - also - can I put 12 hrs on then another 12 hrs the next day - do not like leaving things plugged in and working when not there to monitor. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
The dry cell batteries that the Blast uses is an entirely different animal than the old lead acid batteries. The plates or should I say the foil does not become sulfated from over charging, you can't boil it dry, you can't freeze it, you can slam charge them, after running them dead. Just don't put them away empty, charge them up and let them go, the only way to discharge them is to have a current draw. Eventually something happens to them. After 6 years of the above, I am still waiting to find out what.... | ||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast: IMHO a slow low amp charge, even if you have pause in the middle(12+12=24) is better for the battery ... "i" call this "THE ONE MORE RIDE SYNDROM" ... Have not done this yet to my BLAST, "BUT" "i" have to my S3T ... Have installed switches in my headlight and taillight circuits to turn said lights off ... When the BATTERY has gotten this far in it's down hill live span, with the LIGHT's OFF it will start(too old now to bump start even my BLAST) ... AND "I" GET ONE MORE RIDE HOME !!! Then "i" go and get a NEW BATTERY !!! You just never know with these small motorcycle batteries, no matter how good you take care of them ... Only you can establish a PREVENTIVE MAINTAINCE when the battery should be changed to keep the "BROKE DOWN ON THE SIDE OF THE ROAD SYNDROM" to a minium ... Where you live in United States determains how long your battery will last ... "i" understand your consern a leaving the charger on ... In your charger is a small printed circuit board and a very small amount of electrical cpmponents ... If it over heats a resister will burn open and the circuit will shut down ... You have more to FEAR from your CLOCK RADIO next to your bed, the TV in your in your bed room(any other TV/VCR/any other similar device), or your refrigerator catching on fire than your little trickle charger ... THINK ABOUT IT !!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Ezblast |
If the battery is loosing energy then - it must be with the bike off, or there is no charging going on - so I guess I better check my grounds, then what should I look at next - the wires to the stator? Maybe I'm worrying about nothing and the battery wasn't sufficiently charged in the first place? GT - JBOTDS! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on January 24, 2007) | ||
| Swampy |
EZ, what did you find with yours? You replaced a battery recently didn't you? Watch those stator wires as they go under the little protector plate to protect them from the hub. Those protector plate edges are SHARP! Now that I read UP, I see the question is how many amps do you charge a new battery at? There is a formula for that, it is like 2amps per hour multiplied by the CCAs or something like that, the end result is to charge the discharged battery at a slow rate so you keep the plates cool and and not sulfate the battery..thus ruining it. However with the new dry powder batteries it should already be fully charged, or need nothing but a little boost then it is ready for service. If you are having problems you need to check to see if you charging system is putting out enough to overcome the battery voltage and that the charge can get to the battery. gotta go wifes yelling! | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - I put the new battery in about october when I thought it could have been the source for the bad acting tach., however, that wasn't it (loose wire instead) - so is this a small loss, or perhaps something new and how do I check that the battery is getting enough charge? I have an Ohm Meter - where should I use it and what should I look for? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast: To check if your system is charging, start the engine ... Connect a eletronic VOM(on scale that will read 15 volts) across the batery terminals ... The metter should read 13.5 to 14.5 volts, if so it is working ... It is a good PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE to tye wrap your wiring so it is not doing the wiggle test while you are riding ... Disconnect the Speedo sensor and see if that makes a differance for erattic tach ??? You must check your battery terminals as a PREVENTAVE MAINTAINCE thing as they do get loose !!! In BLASTing LaFayette | ||
| Swampy |
Yes, all that! VOM, set at 15 or 20 volts. Check static voltage across the battery, engine off, should be 12.75-13.5 volts. Start the bike run up to 2000rpm or so, voltage should be 13.5-14.5 volts. You may have to load the system, Hi beam on, or head light on for a few minutes with the engine off. If the voltage is low or stays the same when you are running the bike, unplug the stator wires, turn the VOM to 30-40 volts AC scale, and with the bike running you should see 28 or so volts. No/low volts=bad stator, 28+ volts=bad regulator. To check battery drain, VOM set at 15-20 volts DC, disconnect the negative cable hook up the VOM positive to the battery, and the negative to the negative cable. If you see nothing, turn the VOM to a lower voltage scale like 5 volts, if all is good you should see 0.0 volts. If you see any voltage, start disconnecting things till you get 0 draw and you have found the offending piece. | ||
| Buellistic |
Swampy: Think CURRENT !!! | ||
| Swampy |
As in current topic?....LOL! Night guys, I got 5 $475,000, buses to check in tomorrow, and the boss is gonna be there. | ||
| Ezblast |
Thanks guys - will do! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
Swampy: Current(I), as in electrons moving through the circuit ... | ||
| Ezblast |
I'm getting 12.48 v at 2000 rpm consistently - will check red later for comp. - what do I check next? Red bike left blinker blinks, right blinker blows fuse , and if done long enough the flasher will go also. - I checked all the speedo wiring and it looks fine - is there a wire there that could affect this, or is there just a short/break in the right side wiring that needs tracing? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Buellistic |
Ezblast: Read your Factory Service Manual on how to check your STARTOR AC VOLTAGE OUTPUT ... If it is not with in SPEC's your STATOR is bad ... Do not run your PRIMARY CHAIN at Factory Spec's as it helps to shortin it's life ... PLUS read CHARGING SYSTEM !!! In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by buellistic on January 27, 2007) | ||
| Swampy |
EZ, What was the voltage of the battery when the engine is off? I am assuming it was the same as when the engine was running? The next step is to unplug your stator wires where they exit the primary case by the starter, I haven't looked but follow the wires up and I think there is a connector for them. With your VOM set at AC volts it should be putting out 28+ AC volts at 2000rpm. If it is not putting out 28+ AC volts, you have a bad stator, if it is putting out 28+ AC volts you have a bad voltage regulator. | ||
| Ezblast |
I had the battery checked first in off - freshly charged at 12.9 v - then on at 2000rpms - it came in consistently at 12.48 v - so next check stator? To see if it is the stator or regulator not giving me the juice I need - 13+ v - correct? And on the red bike follow the non working blinker side with a tester, or is there a better way ti find the wire short? GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
