| Author | Message | ||
     Spooky |
* I did not type this word for word from the instruction sheet, as this would have been to much typing. If you have any questions you can E-mail me . spooky@triad.rr.com 1. Disconnect the battery, neg. cable first. Remove the timing cover. Remove the clamp fastening the wire harness and oil lines to the right side of the bike. 2. Disconnect the ignition module connector (remove the gas tank cover.), a 6-pin Deutsch connector on the left side of the frame backbone. 3. Remove the pins fron the female Deutsch connector body. Save the body for installation. 4. Remove the module plate mounting screws to remove the module plate from the gearcase. Position the new ignition module in the gear case and route the wires back to the connector location (step 2). 5. Loosely fasten the module to the gearcase using the two screws (step 4). Do not tighten the screws. Scribe alignment marks in the V-notch, located on the module plate, for approximate ignition timing during installation. 6. Install pins into the stock Deutsch connector body (step 3). Note there are small numbers on the connector body to go by. Pin 1 white/black Ignition switch 2 violet/white TPS 3 violet/brown Auto-enrichener 4 pink Coil/tachometer 5 green/gray Bank-angle sensor(2001 and later Blast)/side stand 6 pin plug Ground * The brown wire from the module is for a direct-splice connection to a tachometer. 7. Insall the pin plug from the kit into the Deusch-connector number 6 pin location. (If this is missing you can use a tooth pick in its place or go to the dealership to see if you can get one.) Mate the connector halves (step 2). 8. Fasten the wire harness and hoses to the right side of the motorcycle using the hardware removed in step 1 Set the timing 1. connect the battery cables to the battery, pos. cable first. 2. Statically time the engine: a. Remove the spark plug from the engine. b. Remove the timing-window plug from the crankcase. c. Raise the rear wheel or the motorcycle.(If you have no way of raising the rear of the motorcycle don't worry.) d. Shift the transmission into fifth gear. standing on the left side of the motorcycle, slowly rotate the rear wheel in a counterclockwise directionuntil the intake valve opens and closes, as viewed through the spark plug hole. (This is a bitch to see.) e. Rotate the rear wheel until the vertical TDC mark is centered in the timing window. f. Turn the ignition to the ON position. g. Slowly rotate the module plate until the red LED is not illuminated, then tighten the module plate screws to 15-30 in-lbs. 3. Lower the rear wheel of the motorcycle and install the spark plug. 4. Verify timing with timing light. Refer to the service manual. 5. Install the timing cover(s). Install a new timing cover on Buell Blast models. * If you can not raise the rear of the motorcycle follow steps a,b,and e. You will need to let the module lay outside of the timing case. Push the motorcycle in fifth gear until the cut out in the timing cup is somewhere between the 1 and 3 o'clock position. Check to make sure you see the vertical TDC mark is center in the timing window. put the module plate back in the timing case and move on to step f. Have fun and be safe.  (Message edited by spooky on April 28, 2003) | ||
| Spooky |
Switch Functions Mode Select (mode sel): Select 2 for the Buell Blast Advance Slope (adv slope): The slope of the advance curve is adjustable over a wide range. Setting the advance-slope switch to (0) results in minimum advance; switch setting (9) results in maximum advance. Switch settings (1) through (8) are advance curves between the minimum and maximum curves. Higher switch settings result in more aggressive slopes above idle and more advance at high RPM. Start with switch setting (5) and ajust from there. Stock and modified engines (mild cams, low restriction air cleaner, aftermarket exhaust) may benefit from a more aggressive advance slope on vehicles using 93 or higher octane gasoline. High-compressionrace engines may require a less aggressive slope to eliminate spark knock. RPM Limiter (rev limit) x1000 should be set at (6) STOCK BUELL BLAST X100 should be set at (5) STOCK BUELL BLAST * I have my advance slope at setting (9) and I run 93 octane or higher gas all of the time no spark knock at this time. My rev limiter is set for 6800. I don't recommend that the rev limiter be set at this or any higher. Setting it higher than the factory setting (6500) with shorten the life of the stock valve-train components. I am no way responsible for any damage done to you or your motorcycle.  | ||
| Halfaharley |
I also run my advance slope set at 9. I have a V&H exhaust and Pro-Series intake, stock internal engine parts, using 92 octane fuel. I never get any pinging or foul effects. --Nik | ||
| Ezblast |
For High comp - 4.5.6 are the numbers to deal with with out advancing the module - a good note: A good quick 'down and dirty' method for setting timing after the static setting: When I was having issues with my Blast, it was the TPS that was out of range. One of the things though that I checked (of many) during that horrible exploration was the timing. What I discovered was that setting the timing with the motor off really doesn't get an accurate result. If you don't want to buy a timing light (Harbor freight sells one for $10 or $11), then I have found that the best way to set the timing it to run the engine at idle then turn the module counterclockwise until the revs go up. If you go too far, the engine will start to sputter out, but if you get it just right the rev's will be at max when you've got it just right. And of course, turning clockwise from this position will lower the revs. Thanks Berke - EZ | ||
| Berkshire |
 not me, that was Toni! | ||
| Ezblast |
My bad! - Thank Toni! - lol EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, thats wrong. Static timing is accurate. The reason to check it with a timing light (dynamic timing) is to verify, among other things, is that you set the static timing correctly and to be sure there are no other problems such as a bad module, loose rotor, incorrectly adjusted or bad TPS, loose module or ? If the timing is adjusted correctly (on just about any engine I can think off), advancing the ignition will increase engine rpms and retarding the ignition will decrease rpms (again, if deviating from the correct timing setting). The above procedure will be too far advanced. Of course if you have other problems, it could be right on. Advancing the timing almost always seems to make an engine run 'better' and is one way to compensate for other problems. Doesnt mean its a good idea though. | ||
| Ezblast |
Its a very fine adjustment, not recommended except when trying to see if you have detonation problems and need to retard a bit, or visa versa - bike seams sluggish - an advance of a degree or two may be in order - we all know the factory only spends a limited amount of time on this stuff, or all our bikes would click shifting with no grinds - lol. EZ | ||
| Fastblast |
can u tell me the part number for the ignition module thanks jake | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The part number is on this page: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/59815.html?1324300271 I cant open the SE instructions because it shuts down my MAC (my problem, not the links). PS The module has been unavailable for years and quite a few defective modules have been sold as new. Thats a $300 gamble for an electronic part that wont be returnable, fwiw. |
