| Author | Message | ||
     Naustin |
I tend to ride on my toes, and move my feet up to the controls only when I need to shift or brake. I might consider moving them up the 1.5", but I'm boarderline with the passenger pegs as it is, and if I moved my pegs up any further, it would definatly be a problem. Plus, I'm growing fond of the low seat, which would be out of the question of the pegs were any higher. | ||
| Ezblast |
Note to Banke rearset owners - the stock position of the Banke setup can - in certain foot positions - put your heel against your sidestand - pressing it to a downward position enough to shut off your motor - so watch where you place your heel - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Naustin |
If you keep your stock passenger pegs, your heels can not touch either the sidestand, or the belt/guard, brakelines.  | ||
| Ezblast |
lol | ||
| Jugallo94 |
For those of you that made your own rearsets, how thick of aluminum did you use, and how big of a sheet would you recommend to buy inorder to make these? Thanks | ||
| Jprovo |
Jugallo, I used 1/4" sheet, 12"x12" square, and I have enough left over to make a dashboard.... I'll post details later. James | ||
| Ezblast |
Would that include the shift side? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jprovo |
Yes | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
With the larger plate I have on my brake side, you still need only the 12 x 12, but with only enough left over to make the shifter side bigger. | ||
| Jprovo |
Basically, cut out come cardboard templates and make it happen. I used a piece of 1/6" wall 1/2" O.D. tubing, the aluminum plate (thanks Erik!)and some grade 8 hardware... I more time measuring and making cardboard templates for the plates I wanted than actually making the plates. The tubing I cut into spacers using a tubing cutter (the kind you'd cut copper pipe with), and the I jigsawed, filed and sanded the plates. It probably took me six hours or so to measure and make the plates. I believe that I used three 2 1/2" long bolts for the brake side, and three 3 1/2" long bolts for the shift side. James | ||
| Jugallo94 |
thanks guys. I was a little more concerned with the thikness everyone was using, but wanted an idea of about how big of a sheet I should expect on having to buy. I was thinking of going 3/8" thick aluminum. I have a buddy that can get sheet pretty cheap he says. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think it cost me $20 a square, maybe less, definitely not more. | ||
| Jugallo94 |
I was basically told for a 24x24 3/8" thick sheet would cost me a twelve pack. | ||
| Jprovo |
Homebrewed Rearsets: The first thing that you must figure out before you build your rearsets is the shifter. You can make your own, use the Storz shifter (part HD083.20 http://www.storzperf.com/pdfs/Page32_33.pdf ) , or use the Buell XB parts and drill and tap your primary cover. The racebike has the Storz shifter, and it works well. My streetbike has the Buell XB shifter and even though it’s more work initially, you have the ability to have a conventional or reversed shift pattern, and it looks stock. The next thing to do is figure out what footpegs to use. I had some clevis’s machined up to take the XB footpegs, but you can buy some pretty cheap footpegs from JC whitney that will work, and look good too. cut and paste whole address into address bar and hit go: http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/show Custom-0/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2002578/c-10111 /Nty-1/p-2002578/Ntx-mode+matchallpartial/N-10111 /tf-Browse/s-10201/Ntk-AllTextSearchGroup?Ntt=peg Note the address is 4 lines long - that is why I edited it. The materials and tools required to make the rearsets are as follows: Footpegs ($26 if you buy the O-ring ones) Shifter ($100 for the Storz shifter) 12” x 12” x 1/4” thick aluminum plate ($20) 1/2" OD, 1/16” wall thickness aluminum tube ($5) Bag of 1/4" washers ($1) Misc Hardware ($8) Jigsaw and Blades for aluminum Tubing Cutter File Drill and drill-bits Cardboard, Pencil, Scissors, Ruler, tape measure… Now that you have figured out what pegs and shifter that you want, you can start fabbing stuff up. The first thing I did is get the bike on a rear stand, or put some wood under the kickstand to make the bike sit straight up and down. The place I started is on the shifter side. You are going to remove bolts 9, 10 and 11 from the primary cover and replace them with longer bolts to hold the aluminum plate. I replaced the bolts with three 3 1/2" grade 8 1/4"-20 bolts. Ideally, you would use a 3 3/4" bolt for the center spot, but the local hardware store didn’t have one, and I was too lazy to cut a 4" bolt down. Plus, there seems to be plenty of threads supporting the 3 1/2" bolt.  Cut two spacers 1 1/8” long, and one spacer 1 3/8” long for the center. Cut a piece of cardboard to roughly the shape in the diagram above, and punch the three holes in it for the bolts. Bolt the cardboard into place using the bolts and spacers, find out where you should install the footpeg that will work for you. After you have that figured out, cut the plate out of aluminum and install it on the bike. The stackup was the Bolts, some lockwashers with some plain washers underneath, the plate, the spacers, the primary cover, and then the engine cases. I torqued them down to the same torque as the old primary cover bolts. The Brake side is a little trickier. First thing that you want to do is determine if you want to keep the stock pulley guard or not. If you want to keep the stock pulley guard, use 2 1/2" long grade 8, 1/4"-20 bolts, 1 3/8” spacers. The stack up up is Bolt, lock washer, flat washer, plate, spacer, flat washer, belt guard, engine case. If you don’t want to keep the stock belt guard, you can probably re-use the bolts from the primary side, and use 1” spacers. Cut a piece of cardboard roughly the same size as the following sketch, and mount it to the bike. Measure from the ground and from the center of the rear axle to the shift side foot peg mount hole, and transfer those measurements to the brake side. Figure out where you want to put the Brake lever and master cylinder. The master cylinder holes are 1 9/16” apart, and need to be 1/4" away from the edge of the plate to provide clearance for the master cylinder.  Mount up the Brake side plate to the same torque specs as the primary cover bolts. Figure out a spot to mount the master cylinder and the oil drain lines, and there you go: Rearsets for as little as $160 in material. James Also see http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=20164&post=391162#POST391162 (Message edited by ezblast on June 01, 2006) | ||
| Ezblast |
Nice! | ||
| Jprovo |
It took me awhile to write it all down, but there it is! | ||
| Jugallo94 |
I was going to make up my own set of rearsets, but I dont have the time, so I have decided to bite the bullet and order a set. Are the Crossroads worth the extra money versus the bankes? | ||
| Ezblast |
Get the Banke set up in the raised position and you should be fine. The Crossroads are a really serious setup and you have to position the break reservior yourself. I did an L bracket and a screw and expoxy to hold in place and its worked in the long term, however, the position is a lot more radical than Banke and should only be chosen by someone dedicated to corner carving and good flexibility - if you just want to get your lean on now and again then the Banke is fine. In fact - I switched pegs out to tubular dirtbike style - real short and small and never raised them and I have yet to drag them - I ride on the balls of the feet on the pegs. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Naustin |
The banke's in the standard position are about all I can take. Any further back or up would be uncomfortable - but I have longish legs... An added benefit of the banke's is that you can keep your passenger pegs. See my profile pic... Nick PS) Thank you Gearheaderiko...  | ||
| Jugallo94 |
One more question. Is the shifter able to be used with rearsets. I have a friend that said he would make up the rearsets for me, so I just need to know if I can use the stock shifter or if I need to get a new setup. I plan on using an xb setup but not until next year.If possible | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The shifter will have to be bent, which may break it.You might be able to hang it off the drum for clearance, but it'll need a extra hole for a pin or bolt to hold it on. A Storz reverse pattern shifter is about $100 or the XB linkage is about $100. With some ingenuity you could make your own linkage, especially if you can adapt some old HD forward control parts or rearset linkage from something else. (try ebay). | ||
| Jugallo94 |
OK so I bought the banke rearsets and I am tired of the footpegs flopping around. I purchased some footpeg springs for a xb but they dont fit. What are you guys doing about the pegs on these. I have tried tightening the bolt down more, but I am scared that if I tighten it anymore that something will break. | ||
| Ezblast |
Just don't forget red locktight and you should be good to go! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jugallo94 |
Ez the bolt has a lock nut on it and hasnt backed off any. I used a torque wrench when I put it together. I double checked and it was the same spec as originally, but for some reason the pegs rattle like they are loose. I dont want to tighten any more, because it seems like something may break or bend. Just wondering if anyone was putting some sort of spring or anything in to stop the rattling. I may try some washers to take up some space. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The rubber ones didnt flop at all, very tight. Did you get aluminum? | ||
| Jugallo94 |
Yes aluminum pegs. Eventually I am going to get a new set of pegs, but its a pain every time I stop at a light I have to check my pegs to make sure they are in the proper position before taking off. I am going to try the washer thing tonight and see how that works. | ||
| Naustin |
That's too bad. I have Erik's old set and as he said, with the rubber pegs. They are rock solid... | ||
| Ezblast |
Its pegs - I red locktighted and tightened the s**t out of them - no movement at all - recommend the same. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jugallo94 |
Ill try that tonight then on my ride tomorrow I will see what happens. Thanks guys | ||
| Jugallo94 |
I didnt have red locktite so I used blue. I put a 1/2 inch ratchet on the bolt and one on the nut and tightened till I couldnt tighten anymore. 200miles later and they are still tight. No Rattling. |
