| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Sure - send them to me please and I'll post them. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Mmelvis |
Jprovo: Long Term Results of my Jardine Short and sweet Header pipe 1 cracked at the 6 month mark where the front mount is. Header pipe 2 cracked 4 months later where the header pipe mounts. The first header pipe was replaced under warranty, I did not bother with the second. So right now the pipe and the muffler are sitting in a box collecting dust. An important note in all the above, I had all my mounts on the right side of the bike. After reading many posts the mounts should be on the left side of the bike, this may be the cause for the self destructing head pipe. The muffler needs to be re-packed, about half of the rivits need to be replaced. Overall for the price and getting several races and 4 or 5 thousand miles out of the unit I it held up as well as can be expected. My V&H muffler lasted about a total of 2 years with about 6 thousand miles and repacked 4 times and 1 core replace. The pipe or the mounts I never had a problem with. The muffler lost the exhaust tip at the 3500 mile mark after the 2nd repack. The area on top of the muffler where the rear mount is has very large cracks where the bolts go though. I do not think the muffler is safe any longer. So right now I have the Vance & Hines header pipe with a 3rd party no name muffler. I believe this off brand muffler may flow well enough not to choke the engine and reduce the noise to about 86 decibels at half throttle. I am waiting on a Dyno run to see if the my guess on the muffler is true. Should know in the next week or two. Anyway I see no problem with either system, they do what they are meant to do, increase performance. Have a great day | ||
| Naustin |
Berlshire - Is that tape safe as muffler packing? I mean, the adhesive is surely flammable, and the tape itself may not resist the heat either?? Be careful... Mmelvis - Thanks for the report on the Jardine... I wouldn't think the misplaced mount would be responsible for your problems though. As long as it was mounted securely, it shouldn't have mattered. The only issue I can see from that would be a misalignment at the exhaust port and a posssible exhaust leak. Unless there was torque on the whole unit or if it was being pulled one direction or the other by the rear mount. I wonder what the db of my Bub is... Maybe EZ knows - he's the one with a ticket under his belt... | ||
| Ezblast |
The Bub is much quieter than my current D&D - lol - however, for non-incity riding it may be a perfect exhaust - for the world of 3000rpm to 6000 - acceleration is much quicker - though I lost some top and bottom - not much but noticable - The Bub was deeper but the same noise level as the WB - the WB - which in combo. with the B50 cam really makes the red bike haul butt. The Bub just seems loud due to its depth - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Berkshire |
Ezblast - pics sent, post whichever you think might be useful. Naustin - Good point, and thanks for the warning! So far I've ridden about 300 miles with no trouble. The tape is mostly fiberglass, which should be okay. I think a wee bit of the stickum melted and got blown out, as I noticed some green goo splattered on the inside of the aluminum part at the outlet after my first test ride. It seems to be gone now, so my guess is that it got cooked off, and whatever is left in the can should remain stable. | ||
| Ezblast |
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| Berkshire |
Thanks, Ezblast I figured out how to edit the pics down to a reasonable size, so if this "upload attachment" button does what I think it does...  this is a detail of the tape  if you look thru the hole in the second baffle (near outlet), you can see part of the first one (near inlet). they're about 3" apart, and 3" from each end of the perforated section.  the second baffle, after 300 miles  it looks like the "green goo" has turned brown, and is now coating the whole inside part of the end piece. the packing still looks yellow. yaaaay! now I know how to edit & upload pics!  | ||
| Ezblast |
LOL - reminds me of the hotrodding trick used by guys who run straight pipes that wanted to get back a bit of bottom end torque - does she take off any quicker? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Berkshire |
I don't know if it made any difference in performance - it used spin the back tire on moderately quick takeoffs, and it still does, so there's no MAJOR difference. If there is a minor difference, then I've unconsciously adjusted my use of the throttle and clutch to compensate, so that it takes off however I want it to in a given situation. My own hotrodding experience (5.0 Mustang) has shown me that the g-force measurements provided by my backside are too subjective to be useful - the only way I can know for sure is to take it to the track, or to a dyno. Since I'm too cheap to dyno-tune it, and the dragstrip requires a high-dollar set of leathers, top speed is really the only performance indicator I have... | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
berkshire - that is a great idea. I might try some different sized washers, and loosen up the fiberglass packing on mine. I think I packed mine too tight which I guess renders the packing less effective. I used the spaghetti string stuff from www.racetools.com | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, it might be louder, but the tight packing might last longer and the muffler might last longer too (as it seems that once the packing is gone the can starts to overheat and crack). | ||
| Johnnylunchbox |
10-4 good point | ||
| Mabueller |
I have a V&H. Is there a way to make it quieter? I wrote V&H direct to see if they provided information on repacking or other suggestions but I never got a response. Any suggestions for me? | ||
| Naustin |
You can re-pack it. There are Allen screws on the back part of the muffler. This will help, but it won't be much quieter. However, if you don't repack it occasionally, the internal baffle will overheat, and eventually break and you'll have to buy a new exhaust. Jardine makes a "quiet Core" insert for their exhaust. I don't know if anyone around here has tried it - but there hasn't been much good luck with the Jardine in general.... Unfortunately the choice with the Blast is either keep the Stock exhaust system, or live with something LOUD. There is no middle ground since the Buell Pro-Series unit was discontinued. Even that exceeded EPA noise regulations... | ||
| Mabueller |
Thank you for the feedback Naustin. I'm not sure what the next step will be then. Regarding repacking the V&H. Does someone sell a drop-in replacement or repacking supplies that you recommend? | ||
| Naustin |
I've never repacked one myself. I think V&H may sell a kit to repack it, but you could also get the packing material from an automotive or exhaust store locally I would imagine. I think you just take the exhaust off the bike, open up the muffler, and stuff it as full as you can between the core and the outside wall of the muffler - making sure to distribute it evenly. I think you might actually "pack" it in there too. Somebody else who has actually done it can should be able to give you some good tips. | ||
| Tim |
Remove the end cap. Remove the core. On the Blast, I have always done this with the rear wheel off. I don't think you can do it with the wheel in place. Remove any remaining old packing. Wrap new packing around core. It is a mat of fiberglass type insulation. Wrap cellophane tape around the matting and core in two or three locations. This is to hold it all together while you slide it back in. Put cap back on. I have only used aftermarket kits where you need to trim the length of the mat to fit the length of the core. | ||
| Mabueller |
Thank you Naustin and Tim. Tim, Will this repacking quiet the exhaust to the level of the original? I don't expect to be able to get it "Honda quiet", I'm just trying to keep from waking up the neighbors and my wife when heading out for a ride on a weekend morning. | ||
| Tim |
I'm waiting to get my wheel back. The bearings were toast. I'll let you know when I get it back together. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I got to finally try the V & H today. Its really not any louder than the Pro Series, although the PS does have a deeper, mellower tone.But not much different. From all the negative posts about it, you'd think it was as loud as an open pipe. Its not! | ||
| Ezblast |
Why - the WB crack? - what a loss in power hit - using the V&H! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jprovo |
The WB is fine, it was just re-packed. You can't really compare the WB on Erik's bike to anything else, The engine and header are so diffent from what is on a stock bike. The V&H was on a near stock bike. I really didn't think that there was a big noise or power difference with the V&H and the Pro-Series. | ||
| Sleez |
has anyone tried taking a tuber head pipe and cutting the front pipe off to make a custom??? i have an extra header from my S3, i might try it if it seems relatively worth while! | ||
| Ezblast |
Whats the OD? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Sleez |
at the head? port size you mean? or the body of the head pipe? i'll have to measure it, it's a 97 so the collector is only 2" or 2 1/4" if i remember. i also have a late model tuber Force pipe that i could cut up??? but i'd like to make it out of the stainless pipe and put my old style supertrapp on it. | ||
| Ezblast |
I think the collector is 2" - I'm doing something very simular with a LSR header that ends at 2" and a 4" Supertrapp - the big question is how many discs - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Sleez |
cool! post pics when you get it done, will like to see what i should and shouldn't try! it has a brand new pro series pipe on it now, but i like shiny!! | ||
| Berkshire |
more Kerker mods:     Ground clearance is much better, as is access to the primary adjuster & drain plug. It's loud as hell - major thumpage! | ||
| Naustin |
That configuration makes a hellova lot more sense to me... Nice Job! Do you think it would be about the same loudness as stock if the resonance tube wasn't drilled out? Nick | ||
| Berkshire |
No - the loudness is coming from the right side. I don't have those washers in there anymore, so the exhaust basically just has a straight path out. Regarding the branch connection: it looks like Kerker did a nice job cutting the "bird's mouth" end on the branch pipe, and also the cutout on the "through" pipe. Unfortunately, it's welded together with the branch pipe inserted 1/16" to 1/8" into the thru pipe. The branch opening is basically full size, but besides it being a 90 degree turn, there's also a sharp edge to go around. My theory is that the exhaust doesn't like to make that sharp turn, so the regular kerker sound is softened (considering the muffler is a straight-thru glasspack). Drilling the resonance tube really didn't make a HUGE difference when it was on the right side - the holes are small, and the exhaust pulse doesn't hit them all at once since they run down the length of the pipe. I think it added more of a soft "puff" than a harsh "pop". The big slot at the end DID allow some of the loud "pop" sound to come out - it would have been better with just the small holes. But with the left & right sides switched now, the exhaust has an easy path straight out the back, so I don't think the holes in the tube on the left side matter much - the loudness is definately coming from the right. I dunno, but I have a feeling it wouldn't be TOO much louder if I completely removed the tube and just ran it with the left side open! Regardless, I'm thinking I'll try a closed resonance tube on that side - who knows, it MIGHT make it a little quieter, or give it back some of that "kerker twin" sound. |
