| Author |
Message |
    
Ezblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2008 - 12:00 am: | 
|
You guys rock!
EZ |
Swampy
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 09, 2008 - 10:07 pm: |
|
I would have to go back to your earlyist posts, the whirring noise, and not being able to get above 60mph.
I would think that your primary chain is running too tight.
Does it make the whirring sound with the clutch pulled in?
Can you start your bike in gear with the clutch pulled in? |
Toniportray
| | Posted on Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 12:18 pm: |
|
The whirring sound doesn't appear to be much of an issue anymore. It's the ratchet-clack sound that I'm concerned about. I know the primary is tightened correctly, and this is a separate clack from what you get when the primary is too loose. It makes the noise of a ratchet when you spin it around, and the frequency of the noise increases in perfect correlation to the engine rpm's. It does so in any gear, and even in neutral, so I suspect it's not something in the transmission, but rather something in the primary or further up the drive train maybe in the crankcase. It's quite loud, and there's no doubt in my mind that it is definitely not normal. Anyone who hears the noise immediately knows something is wrong. Even if they're not motorcycle riders. I'm not sure what else to check, as this has me truly puzzled. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 12:32 pm: |
|
Sounds like you need to have your head examined - lol,
seriously though - I would try to narrow down where the sound is coming from - a mechanic's stethoscope should do the trick.
EZ |
Swampy
| | Posted on Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 09:45 pm: |
|
Check the right side of the engine, maybe you have a oil pump drive gear that is a gonner. You should be able to probe around and find out where the noise is coming from.
Since it is a ratcheting noise, I would be looking at things with teeth on them.
Did the noise still occur when you had the primary cover off. If you took your spark plug out you could spin your engine over by spinning the clutch hub over by hand and you could find out where the noise was coming from. |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 10:22 pm: |
|
oil pump drive gear 26391-06 ...
oil pump needs to be replaced, get oil pump 26357-07 |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 11:13 pm: |
|
Oil pump, a bearing, valve-train - the trick is to find the area of origin.
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, January 10, 2008 - 11:32 pm: |
|
If the oil pump drive gear is 'ratcheting' that would also indicate its probably not spinning and the pump is not pumping. Symptoms would include always adding oil. At least one of the lifters would probably shut down making a clacking noise.
The bike would probably still run (due to an overabundance of oil in the crankcase) but run poorly.
If this seems at all likely you can drain all the oil and see how much comes out. You'll also have to drain the crankcase which is accomplished by unscrewing a small allen plug at the bottom of the crankcase near the oil pump. Be careful when replacing it. You can crack the case by overtightening it.
2 1/2 qts drained out and you may not have a problem. A gallon or more would definitely indicate a problem.
You could also pull the cam cover and look at the oil pump drive gear, but thats more involved than just draining the oil. I'd pull the cam cover second after draining the oil. |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Friday, January 11, 2008 - 08:25 am: |
|
2 1/2 Quarts or more when Owner's Manual and Factory Service Manual says 2 Quarts ???
take the oil pump out and look at the oil pump drive gear which also allows you check to make sure the oil pump spins freely ... |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, January 11, 2008 - 07:37 pm: |
|
Perhaps you should read the post more carefully.
There is also a logical order to diagnostics. Easy first, more complicated second. Pulling the oil pump would be 3rd on the list especially since pulling the pump will not tell you if you have a disintegrating drive gear as the pump may not show any signs of wear. Oil pump drive gear is a known common failure. The gear on the pump is the driven gear and not the one prone to failure. You may have fragments, but you wont know exactly where they came from without pulling the cam cover. |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Friday, January 11, 2008 - 08:21 pm: |
|
that is what the hole where the oil pump goes is for ...
2 allen screws(oil pump)
7 allen screws(cam gear cover), "PLUS" |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Friday, January 11, 2008 - 11:07 pm: |
|
Well, its his choice. Look through the hole and see a bad gear-the cover comes off. Look through the hole and see nothing, then take the cover off to see the rest.
Its all a moot point if there are no symptoms.
Or if there are no symptoms, pulling the pump would be the easiest way 'just to be sure'.
(Message edited by Gearheaderiko on January 11, 2008) |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Friday, January 11, 2008 - 11:58 pm: |
|
metal still means the oil pump comes off, first or last... |
Slowhand96
| | Posted on Saturday, January 12, 2008 - 02:10 am: |
|
Totally in agreement with Erik. Oil, no oil, sparkly oil tells a story. Ummmmm.. unless of course.... there isn't a base ball card in the spokes is there? I sometimes do that to get that Japanese big bike sound with my blast.
 |
Toniportray
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 01:27 pm: |
|
I'm currently putting the primary back together to see how things work after having drained out the overfilled primary oil. I just discovered that the coupling piece that connects the clutch cable to the ramp assembly (which allows the clutch to be disengaged/engaged) is missing. I know it wasn't there when I started taking everything apart. There is a little bit of metal shaving magnetically attached to the primary oil drain screw, but not much. Maybe this little piece somehow fell off and got shredded? I didn't find anything laying around in the primary (or magnetically attached to the alternator) so if it did fall off, it's no longer whole. I think it was previously removed by a mechanic or the last owner, because I've adjusted the clutch in the past, and that device has never been there. The clutch cable is held into the ramp hook via a washer. Maybe I'll see if I can get that part from the dealership.
Not sure if that has anything to do with anything, but I thought it might be a small piece of evidence in this big mystery.
|
Joey
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 07:04 pm: |
|
And I was annoyed because the mechanic forgot the O-ring on the cable where it goes into the case! |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 07:59 pm: |
|
34920-86 COUPLING,clutch cable, bottom of primary ...
11179 O-RING is a TECHNICAL problem caused by a technician ... |
Swampy
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 08:20 pm: |
|
Oh, my. I would start looking around for the missing part or pieces. Try to find a small magnet on a stick and see if you cant fish it around inside the transmission and retrieve it. You might try turning the transmission backwards. I would at this point remove the engine sprocket and clutch and look for parts/damage. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 16, 2008 - 10:32 pm: |
|
I've fished that part out of a tuber before without removing the primary.
You sure its not still on the cable? I have done that before also... |
Blake
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 23, 2008 - 04:46 pm: |
|
If it wasn't there when you started, then your clutch would not have functioned at all in any way shape or form. So if your clutch had any function, then that piece was there. |
Toniportray
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2008 - 12:02 am: |
|
The cable was still attached to the hook piece, and it was secure, but it had a little washer over the end of the cable that held the knobby end in place inside the hook. It worked enough to get me riding around for the last 3000 or so miles. Can't say it's reliable though because if that washer somehow popped loose, then the cable wouldn't stay in the hook. Then the whole bike would be useless as soon as I might need to slow down or change gears.
Not to my surprise the greedy sob's at HD want $7 to replace it. $7 for a shabby piece of metal.. These guys are as bad as the Yamaha folks.. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Wednesday, January 30, 2008 - 12:39 am: |
|
It doesn't even matter the maker - they have you at that point - there is no saving on parts like that -
EZ |
Berkshire
| | Posted on Thursday, January 31, 2008 - 09:42 pm: |
|
"there is no saving on parts like that"
...unless you count the guy that saved about $6.90 by using a 10-cent washer! 
seriously, don't try to save $6.90! Aside from the chance of it somehow popping loose, if the washer method causes the outer ramp hook to rub the cable, it could break without warning, possibility launching bike & rider into gross misfortune! |
Swampy
| | Posted on Friday, February 01, 2008 - 03:12 pm: |
|
Since I havn't posted in a while.....
Probably the part went missing when someone was in the cover. And instead of going to the local Buell Parts store and getting abused, they just made what worked!
I would pay $10 for that part.....it they had it! That is the problem! |
