| Author | Message | ||
     Cecil1 |
Hello We recently purchased a 2000 Blast and it ran fine for 2 days. Now it will not start. I tried reversing the diode for the clutch relay and that didn't help. I checked the voltage on the battery with a VOM and it was at 12.2 volts. I put the battery on a charger for a few hours just to make sure it was ok. It just makes a really fast clicking sound. It sounds kind of like an air ratchet gun. Does this sound like a ground problem? Maybe the starter? If its the starter, How hard are they to remove? Any help is greatly appreciated. My wife really wants to get back on this thing. Thanks in advance Tim | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Welcome Tim. Still sounds like a dead battery. How old is the battery? If its original then it would be a miracle if it was still good. Check the battery cables for loose connections. Have you tried push starting it (preferably down a hill if close by)? If it starts that way, it will eliminate a lot of guesswork. If its getting any kind of noise or power at the starter, its probably not a safety switch. You can jump it with another mc battery or car battery (dont start the car)to see if it starts. Be alert for any burning smells! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Starter isnt that hard to remove. | ||
| Cecil1 |
Gearheaderiko Thanks for the fast reply. Yes I push started it and it started right up. I do not know how old the battery is. It is an Autocraft battery. I do not know if this is original or not. I did clean and reinstall the battery cables. So the starter is not that hard to remove? I couldn't tell if I had to remove the side casing of the motor or not. Is there a link for directions on how to remove the starter? Maybe I should take the battery to get it tested. I am close to an interstate battery store. I think they test them. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Its not an original battery (originals say Harley Davidson on them). Regrettably the primary cover does have to be removed to pull the starter (the hardest part will be pulling the footpeg Y-frame off.3 nuts & a pain to get to). See if they'll test the battery but definitely leave it on a slow charger all night before you take it down there (and see if the bike starts again!). I'm still betting its battery or battery connections. Did anything get hot or smell like it was burning? Feel the clutch cable for heat. If one of the ground cables break, it grounds through the clutch cable. PS how many miles on the bike? Also, count the teeth on the rear wheel pulley.73 teeth is a recall item, 80 teeth is the good pulley. I dont think I've ever heard of a Blast starter going bad. Get a repair manual. Usually plenty on e-bay. | ||
| Swampy |
More thatn likely the battery is bad. The battery you have is probably a lead acid battery and is not designed to be mounted on its side in the Blast. It has probably lost a good portion of the acid and the battery plates are sulfated. My recomendation is get an Optima Battery, or an original equipment battery, one that is the dry powder acid that can be mounted in any position. The Optima Battery is available thru Interstate battery company, you probably have one local. The original battery will last 6 or more years, just make sure it is charged at the end of the season, disconnect it so there is no paracitic drain on it and forget about it. | ||
| Cecil1 |
Thanks for the fast replys again. You guys are a wealth of info. I just went out and tried to jump it with my car. It fired right up. I guess I'll be shopping for a battery tomorrow. I do plan on getting a shop manual for it as I like to do most of my own repairs. Thanks again Tim | ||
| Buellistic |
Cecil1: Get a Factory service Manual and Parts Book ... Get yourself a Deltran Battery Tender Plus from "Cyclegear" PN 6152 ... When not riding put on charger ... Buy a H-D/BUELL replacement battery as they stand the test and out last the rest ... ie: If you buy a H-D/BUELL battery and it lasts 3 years, replace the next one at 2 1/2 years ... That way you do not have to push start/jump it ... In BLASTing LaFayette (Message edited by gearheaderiko on August 05, 2006) | ||
| Swampy |
I have the stock batteries in both Blasts, from 2001. I do not keep them on battery tenders. The new dry powder batteries cost a little more but require no maintenance and are not degraded by abuse, other than leaving them discharged. | ||
| Xgecko |
I bought a Yuasa battery...I figure I have years of positive service. | ||
| Friday |
I bought a stock 2000 Blast with low miles that had been kept in storage for a couple of years. I took the bike to a local reputable bike shop that fully serviced the bike. Including jetting the carb. The bike ran great for about 2 days. Then, I experienced hard starting with backfire through both the exhaust and carb. When riding I experienced an intermittent loss of power and backfire through the exhaust - maybe the carb, too - it's a bit of a blur. I replaced the intake boot (manifold coupler). This resolved the issues while riding the bike - loss of power and backfire. Now, the first time I start the bike, it fires right up and runs fantastic. But, if I shut the bike off and come back 5-10 minutes later, I can't get it started and it will sometimes backfire through the exhaust and at other times through the carb. If I wait more than 10 minutes or so, I can usually get it started with a quick twist to the throttle. If I wait 20-30 minutes, I can start the bike without issue and it runs great. In any and all cases, I feel once the bike has warmed up, it seems like the idle is set really low, like at the bare minimum. PLEASE HELP with this perplexing problem! | ||
| Ezblast |
Sounds like the enrichner needs a TPS reset or replacing - but when started how does the bike idle - fast? Then a coast to down, almost too low - that can actually be the above, then warmed up how fast is the idle? if slow - should be at 1200rpms - not a HD lumping at 800rpms - raise the idle, but do a quick loss of vacuum check - using either WD or Brake cleaner, spray around boot area, left of the carb and base of the intake into the head - any change in rpms would indicate a leak in that area. Confirming you had no leak and that boot is installed correctly, you can now accurately adjust your idle - only a tiny turn of the screw is needed. then see how that idle adjustment works out. Also make sure your primary is not too tight - factory spec is way too tight, and just a good way to end up replacing a primary shoe - chain tension-er, new gaskets and o-rings - there are other things to as well if you get in there, just because you are there - lol EZ |
