| Author | Message | |||||||||||||||||
     Blasterd |
Does the sprocket have to be removed to put on a tire? I got a Pirelli, delivered 55.00 and High performance Cycles will install for 30.00. Did I do good? I just want to make sure about the sprocket. Ken | |||||||||||||||||
| Rick_A |
Blasterd, you can use 20W50 Mobil 1 motorcycle oil only...or 75W90 gear oil. As far as sprocket removal...after pulling the axle I don't see why you'd have to. | |||||||||||||||||
| Ltlboybuell |
OK Ralph , now you got me all confused on the plug issue LOL. So what would the proper cool plug be for the 515 kit with the 10.5:1 piston? Sadly I have forgotten most of my tech training and ignition knowledge from not using it for far too many years. Also, what is your speculation on EZ's failure? | |||||||||||||||||
| Ezblast |
See Rick A post for nkg # that is correct - see my post - for Denso. #. Ralph post on the why of hot vs. cold is correct, however my mumber and rick a. number are the correct reference numbers. And you'll want the Denso number I've already given you as Nallin says thats the plug to run - call them - you do'nt have to take my word on anything - I ran a hot plug - thinking that it would improve performance and that it would be safe enough since the sportster was running it. However though my reasoning was incorrect the plug alone did not do me in - a cracked rubber intake boot did that ( as it has done to others to varying degrees) the plug just made it worse - so I Nallinized. A real improvement for this bike would be a better intake boot - still looking for. Right now I'm running everything at correct numbers including the plug. The only iffy thing right now on my bike is my intake and I'm watching that very closely and open to any sugestions on bettering it - thats why I await the factory's to see what they have done and if I should go there or if any of it would be adaptable(suports, etc.) to mine. Any sugestions are welcome - here are some pic.s - just Blasting on the Dark side. EZ  | |||||||||||||||||
| Ezblast |
try again   | |||||||||||||||||
| Ezblast |
How much is the Blast carb weight wise - just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | |||||||||||||||||
| Ltlboybuell |
OK EZ, thanks. As for the intake boot I had a similar issue with my SVO Mustang. The Intercooler boot kept going because of the T-Bird TC intercooler and changes to the mounts so I got a heavy duty boot that looks suprisingly similar to the intake boot for the bike. If anyone has an extra lying around can you get me the I.D. and length measurements? This thing is sturdy enough by itself to secure the cast aluminum intercooler with is much heavier than the carb (also subject to less vibration though). Rich | |||||||||||||||||
| Ezblast |
1 3/4" id, stop in middle is 3/16"wide by 1/8" high exterior and interior-stops rolled spigot lip of carb and intake to head lip - with lip rise and catch space being 1/8" by 1/8" from middle stop in interior of sleave. Length is 1 3/16". Exterior end lip for bands has a 1/8" rise, and band has a 1/4" thickness. What about those high pressure band clamps for boilers and such - long ago for me - but I'm looking too. It seems a very soft rubber in my hand - I have several for back up now. Just Blasting on the dark side! EZ | |||||||||||||||||
| Jprovo |
Blasterd, Do not run 75W90 gear oil in your engine, I think Rick was thinking of your transmission/primary. Many people run 15W50 Mobil 1 car oil or 20W50 Mobil 1 motorcycle specific oil. I personally run Castrol Syntec 20W50. Buy three quarts, just so you have some on hand to make up for usage, it will take approk 1.75 quarts to fill the oil tank. My local shop was able to change my tire without removing the sprocket. The sprocket is really large though, so some shops might have problems. I suspect you can't change the tire using the H-D dealership spec tire changing machine, and that is why it is in the manual. Make sure to inspect your wheel bearings while you have the wheel off. Joey, re: fuel injection. I'd wait until the factory did it before I tried to design a fuel injection system for the Blast. I really don't see the benefit at this point, I'd rather spend money on go-faster parts then trying to emulate my allready great carburation system. James | |||||||||||||||||
| Jimalexander |
I want to run Castrol GTX in my Blast after reading a technical article where it outperformed the leading regular motorcycle oils. Has anyone used it on a consistant basis? My bike is not broken in so synthetic is out for a while. | |||||||||||||||||
| Blake |
Jim, Don't fall victim to the myth. If you want superior protection use a good synthetic. Even HD now admits that synthetics are fine for break-in. I should clarify that they admit that THEIR synthetic is fine for break-in.  Question.... Why are you changing your oil prior to completing break-in? | |||||||||||||||||
| Blasterd |
I bought Mobil 1 20w50 v twin oil today for the oil change, gonna do it tomrrow, also getting my tire put on in the A.M. I passed a bunch of Buells on the way down to Daytona going through Gainesville, I can't wait for the weekend when I head out myself. Ken | |||||||||||||||||
| Ezblast |
Lived in Daytona 10 years - managing an ABC -inc. the Main Street one;0) for a lot of the time- enjoy - an excellent source of noise and fun. A great place for the singles life year roud - definate party town - if you hit BootHill - tell the Foot Brothers - Little Foot(6'4"  yo - from Zeke - lol - those bros make easy rider crowd shots most years just by being taller than everyone else;0) Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | |||||||||||||||||
| Jimalexander |
Blake, thanks for responding. I have been snowed in so long I guess I have too much time on my hands so when I get to the basement I start thinking about what I can do on then Blast. I installed a Kerker exhaust and just put a #45 slow jet and opened up the air screw in the carb. Then turned attention to the oil. I just read all your posts in the lubrication section and I'm a believer and will use Mobil 1 15/50. To answer your question as to why I'm changing oil at 450 miles, ahh, I guess I got a little mental with cabin fever, and also after hearing that I could do better than Harley dino oil. Jim. | |||||||||||||||||
| Joey |
Shit! Oil light came on today. Previously, it was staying off, even with the engine not running. I checked the oil, and it wasn't touching the dip stick. Figuring I ran it quite low, I dumped in 1/2 quart before I stopped to check. Don't laugh! I have to drain some out--it was up to the top of the dip stick. Yes, within 1/4" of coming out! Shut up! Stop laughing! The oil light stayed on, but the oil is flowing, so I figure it's time to get a mechanical oil pressure gauge. | |||||||||||||||||
| Road_Thing |
Joey: Check the wire from your sending unit! r-t | |||||||||||||||||
| Ralphthe3rd |
More on Plugs (and oil). When we talk about hot or cold plugs, we are NOT talking about the intensity of the spark, but the heat range the plug runs in. The actually temp the plug stays and operates in. It's all about heat dissipation. The only dif. is the length the electrode sticks out from the plug body. All else about the plug is the same. If the electrode/tip is sticking further out into the chamber, or recessed/protected by the shell- them temp will vary. In general...just stick to the normal heat range. you only modify the heat range when you either find you are fouling with carbon(and jetting is otherwise correct)- go hotter-if slow speed is the norm. If you ride alot at extended high speeds where there is over abundant heat in the chamber, you go with a cooler heat range plug so as not to overheat and burn-up. But just stick to the OEM or equivelant heat range by other brands. As for oil in a Blast, although Harley states the 20w50 for Hot weather and the 10w40 for extreme cold...you're more than fine with the auto variety of Mobil 1 (100%synth) in 15w50. Actually, since the Blast actually runs cooler than any other Harley air cooled TWIN.... you maybe fine with a good Synth in 10w40 in the warmer months too....but I wouldn't use a 10w40 dino in warmer months. A lighter weight oil will also give you a tiny/fraction more power thru less oil drag. But beware that if the oil is insuffient in viscosity protection, it will cause excess wear. ~$.02 + change | |||||||||||||||||
| Joey |
What if I ride with Modile 1 synthetic 15W50 and the temperature is 18 degrees F? Is this bad, or am I ok if I give it enough time to warm up? Someone's still laughing... RT--I think I'll go with a gauge. That way I'll know exactly what is going on. I have one in my motorhome, and it's not going anywhere for a while. | |||||||||||||||||
| Ralphthe3rd |
Joey, in that Temp, a 15w50 is better than a 20w50. But if it starts, the superior flowing action of the synthetic Mobil 1 should be ok...but if you are constantly starting and riding in that low a temp, better off going to a 10w40- either Harleys' own Dino juice or a Good Synthetic. That temp is really too low to be using an oil over 10w.... BTW, if you're riding your Blast at temps of 18d F.... You're NUTS !!!! or a Polar Bear !? (or Both!) | |||||||||||||||||
| Dan43blast |
Hey watch who you call a POLAR BEAR! lol!!! I ride year round.(I live in south GA.) I use my Blast for daily transportation. The middle of Dec. saw 4 days in a row that were in the 15-20 degree range.I showed up at work on my Blast every one of them. | |||||||||||||||||
| Blasterd |
Dan4, I too am a year rounder and those 18 degree mornings are not very fun. Speaking of south GA., I passed a Blast in Valdosta about a month ago, any cahnce it was you? I have a question everyone, I read where the sprocket bolts were 1 time use only, and Rick and James had said that they shouldn't have to remove it to change the tire, well I loaded it up in a hurry since it was pouring rain & when I got home I noticed where they had removed the sprocket and put the same bolts back in. Is it going to fly off if I ride to work tomorrow? Should I be concerned and replace them? Ken | |||||||||||||||||
| Blasterd |
Hey, has anybody rerouted the breather hose out of the carb? Can you tell a difference? If anyone has, please give me some input. I was going too try it this week. Ken | |||||||||||||||||
| Jprovo |
Ken, re: Sprocket bolts, You should not have a problem, I belive that the one time use only is because the originals have a blue locktite patch that will be gone after you remove them. Just make sure that they are torqued right and replace them when you get a chance (for peace of mind). If the shop that removed the sprocket was an independent shop, make sure they know that the bolts and washers are one time use only item, and what the proper torque is. If the shop was an approved Buell shop, they should be informed that what they did was not per the FSM, and they should replace the bolts. I personally wouldn't go back to a shop that did work that was contrary to the FSM without notifying me first. Are you sure that the bolts are the same (or that they have been removed at all?) Breather: The only difference that I've seen from re-routing the breather hose is lower oil consumption and no oil in the airbox. I highly doubt that you'll see a notable performance difference. James | |||||||||||||||||
| Ralphthe3rd |
Blasterd, I rerouted and used a crankcase breather over a year ago...so have a dozen of my friends. I would highly recommend this procedure. But some of us have various opinions as to where the breather should be mounted and which breather line to tap. A good source of info with pics is http://www.bcrider.com and Use "Additude's" Blast page. She has pics on carb rejetting and exhaust, plus the said oil breather re-route and filter addition. Check it out...search for the links. | |||||||||||||||||
| Dan43blast |
Not me Blastard. I have never been to Valdosta. I am in Columbus. Drop me an email if you are going to be up this way. | |||||||||||||||||
| Rick_A |
No s**t...he was talking about engine oil! So...what they said... I may have to try harder to get more than 4 hours of sleep a day | |||||||||||||||||
| Ltlboybuell |
Ralphthe3rd, speaking of the breather tap and mounting. I ordered the breather with the stud and plan on fabbing a mounting bracket instead of zip tying the thing in place. That aside, from everything I read the tap itself is essentially just removing the line that tees off the PCV line into the air box and connecting a new line and plugging the breather in place correct? | |||||||||||||||||
| Jprovo |
Rick, no biggie... we all have brain-farts. James | |||||||||||||||||
| Ralphthe3rd |
Ltlboybuell, yep- thats about all there is to it. For me, I just used that very same (into airbox) tee and turned it upward. I then added about 1 1/2 feet of fuel line hose and re-routed it (upward the first inches) and then backward under the fuel cell cover(I notched for clearance), then next to the battery(which is going slighly uphill) and out a hole in the frame. Then I zip-tied the hose to the tail support tube and finally I mounted the rubber ended (no stud) filter right behind a piece of the black plastic near that reflector up high under the tail. I purposely wanted alot of line to reduce spray and it's down hill so it will drain. But please still DO keep the lower drain line as it will always be collecting blow-by oil. Don't forget to plug the airbox. Oh, one other sidenote. There are alot of sharp edges on the corners of the airbox plastic. These corners rub against a lower breather line and wear a hole thru it...keep an eye-out for that, and to prevent that- I shaved and sanded down the sharp edge and also slid a nylon grommet over the hose wherever it may potentially rub on ANYTHING Sharp ! | |||||||||||||||||
| Blake |
Ralph, Thanks for contributing. Just a few clarifications... "When we talk about hot or cold plugs, we are NOT talking about the intensity of the spark, but the heat range the plug runs in. The actually temp the plug stays and operates in. It's all about heat dissipation. The only dif. is the length the electrode sticks out from the plug body. All else about the plug is the same. If the electrode/tip is sticking further out into the chamber, or recessed/protected by the shell- them temp will vary." That is a common misconception. You might want to check out http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/overview.asp. In short, if "the electrode/tip is sticking further out into the chamber", you bought the WRONG spark plug! It would not be simply a different heat range of your original spark plug; it would be a totally different model of plug that would risk contact with and/or melting of the piston face. Not good. According to NGK... With all else being equal a plug with a deeper cavity surrounding the electrode and insulator is a hotter plug since the surface area of the plug that is exposed to combustion is increased. Cooler range spark plugs are intended to run in a hotter engine like a higher compression engine for instance. Perfect example... Remember when Buell changed from the stock Sportster plug to a cooler range of that same plug? Buells are hotter, higher compression engines; they need cooler plugs to help dissipate the additional heat. As for oil in a Blast, although Harley states the 20w50 for Hot weather..." I'd clarify that Buell specifies the following...
I don't consider 40oF "hot weather". Maybe back when I was living near Erie, PA, but not here in East Texas. "Actually, since the Blast actually runs cooler than any other Harley air cooled TWIN.... you maybe fine with a good Synth in 10w40 in the warmer months too....but I wouldn't use a 10w40 dino in warmer months." I would agree. The conventional 10W40 oils require copious amounts of viscosity modifiers to achieve that large percentage of viscosity range. Those viscosity modifiers brake down fairly quickly. Not good. "A lighter weight oil will also give you a tiny/fraction more power thru less oil drag. But beware that if the oil is insuffient in viscosity protection, it will cause excess wear. ~$.02 + change" I understand the Buell Pro Thunder bikes ran a W30 weight synthetic for just that very reason. You might be surprised as how much more power a lesser viscosity oil will allow to escape to the rear wheel. FYI, I run Mobil-1 20W50 or 15W50 on street and track. I'd rather be safe than sorry. |
