Author |
Message |
Sarodude
| Posted on Monday, October 28, 2002 - 10:09 pm: |
|
Prof- According to something I THINK Court mentioned recently the rear sprocket failures were due to beginner lurches. I THINK... It might be that the pre-recall sprocket is otherwise adequate. How else would it have passed thousands of test floggings by the Buell testers? -Saro |
Jimalexander
| Posted on Tuesday, October 29, 2002 - 06:24 pm: |
|
Could someone check the workshop manual and tell me the torque specs on the nuts that hold the muffler head pipe to the head? I'm reinstalling the stock muffler tomorrow. Thanks, Jim. |
Prof_Stack
| Posted on Tuesday, October 29, 2002 - 07:43 pm: |
|
Saro - re: the 2000 sprocket. Test floggings by Buell testers is perhaps close but never can duplicate the conditions and riding habits of ALL us Blastards. The original smaller rear sprocket was prone to develop hairline cracks which grew all too quickly, according to reports I read. The larger sprocket "spreads" out the energy enough to not cause the sprocket failure. I haven't heard of a sprocket failure yet. Could happen, though, I suppose, sort of. Bottom line: If the original sprocket were remanufractured and offered as an option (with shorter belt), I wouldn't go back. It would mean slower acceleration and using a lower gear for most riding. |
Prof_Stack
| Posted on Wednesday, October 30, 2002 - 09:26 am: |
|
Quick addendum to the above - my Blast has no mod's to make it quicker and/or lighter. If that were so, I would consider a smaller back sprocket. Freezing weather is due in the NW this weekend. Rare for this time of year. |
Joey
| Posted on Wednesday, October 30, 2002 - 12:06 pm: |
|
Notes on Oil: I'd do 5000 miles before switching entirely to synthetic. I was topping off with synthetic up to the 7500 mile oil change. I switched to full synthetic then, and did the same to the transmission. Notes on sprockets: I do a lot of highway driving, so I could use the smaller sprocket! I still have to fight the urge to shift into 6th gear every time I hit the highway! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2002 - 12:17 am: |
|
the bub will give ya about 4hp to the the others five or six, however,it has the highest torque readings at usable rpms(3000 and 5500) - a few less inches had to be good somewhere - lol - Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ |
Aaron
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2002 - 12:32 am: |
|
Joey, you don't really believe that myth, do you? |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2002 - 03:17 am: |
|
Jim, 6 to 8 ft-lbs if same as old Buell twins. |
Jimalexander
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2002 - 08:12 am: |
|
Thanks Blake. Jim. |
Chaser
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2002 - 08:18 am: |
|
Ezblast, Do you have a Dyno reading for the bub pipe or know where I can see one online? Everyone, Does anyone know where I can find a Dyno for the V&H pipe? Thanks Josh |
Jimalexander
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2002 - 08:18 am: |
|
Saro, my V&H was installed on a new bike by the dealer, no rubber connections. I just took it off and it was only connected by the header nuts and the rear mount bracket bolts. Am I missing the middle mount? After I install a baffle in the V&H I am going to reinstall it. If it's normal to have 3 mounting positions and the hardware comes with the V&H I need to get that bracket. Jim. |
Sarodude
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2002 - 10:13 am: |
|
Jim- There should be a fairly hefty clamp that crabs the pipe just above the 90-ish degree bend. Along with that is some funky 'precision twisted' bracket to go between the clamp and the stock mounting holes in the engine. Dealers mechanics... shut up, Saro -Saro |
Chaser
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2002 - 12:40 pm: |
|
JimAlexander, Here is the install instructions from V&H This will give you everything you need http://www.vanceandhines.com/download/B135IN.pdf Josh |
Aaron
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2002 - 12:50 pm: |
|
No front mount on your V&H? That explains the loosening header nuts! |
Xgecko
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2002 - 05:01 pm: |
|
yeah no joke the dealers flubbed another one if you don't have that clamp on the header pipe...the mount to the motor that the clamp is bolted to is rubber. you're lucky you didn't break your header studs |
Ezblast
| Posted on Thursday, October 31, 2002 - 08:50 pm: |
|
Posted a dyno a bit ago myself, however, Ive rejetted since then to 180 for more power. Note -kept to about 35 feet from the back of a duc today through my favorite city twisties - boy was he suprised - what size is that he hollers - i reply 500 - he shouts suprised -thats a Blast - I smiled - its a little modified - he smiles - nice sound then we turned our seperate ways(the funny part was that his Duc had a lot of simular aftermarket parts on, if it wasn't for the bike being red - ya know)Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ |
Psychobueller
| Posted on Friday, November 01, 2002 - 03:41 pm: |
|
Motorcycle.com has a poll on their "news" page about the Firebolt and Blast for owners. Thought maybe you'd like to weigh in. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, November 02, 2002 - 02:21 pm: |
|
"Got Thump?" - Preping for a trip to Redding - anyone know a fun - read twisty - route from the Bay area? Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ |
Prof_Stack
| Posted on Saturday, November 02, 2002 - 11:50 pm: |
|
Blast lifts - what are other Blastards using to hoist their Blasts? Sears has one #50190 for $100 right now. It goes under the bike and lifts via foot pump. Would the stock muffler (aka anchor) take the weight? I want to start removing the wheels when I need tires to save the $40 to $60 labor charge for front/back tire replacement. Any thoughts? ... |
Xgecko
| Posted on Sunday, November 03, 2002 - 10:28 am: |
|
Prof I lifted the front via a pulley on the frame. the rear I'm not so sure about though you could likely lift it the same way using loops around the Y arm junctions. Setup would be a B@$^% the first time but if you kept everything set (ie the loops) anything afterwards would be cake. |
Fssnoc2501
| Posted on Sunday, November 03, 2002 - 09:22 pm: |
|
Fellow Blastards, Update on my baby, the mikuni is working fine, changing from the kerker to a bub pipe. The Banke rearsets are great, these are the second set made and they fit without any modifications. James Banke is a wonderful craftsman, this is the first aftermarket part that fit exactly as advertised. Also, ASB rocks, Tat has went out of his way to help me find parts that were not actually intended for the Blast. His service is second to none. Ray |
Jimalexander
| Posted on Monday, November 04, 2002 - 08:18 am: |
|
Fssnoc2501, if you want to sell your kerker, let me know, I've been thinking of getting one hopefully with baffles and the quiet end cap. Jim. |
Ralphthe3rd
| Posted on Monday, November 04, 2002 - 11:05 am: |
|
When I lift the rear end of my Blast. I just use one cement block with block of wood on top for extra height(on right side of bike), and then I slide a nice piece of 2"x3"oak that I covered with an old tube sock, and place that right under the forward section of the swingarm where the braces come togther. I then use a good sissors jack on the low side of the board and start jacking it up and Viola- the rear is off the ground and very stable. You can later remove the jack and replace with a jackstand or another Block if you feel this side isn't secure enough for you, but it has been for me! (To make the jack side easier to get under, place a block under the sidestand to level the bike somewhat before begining) |
Blastin
| Posted on Monday, November 04, 2002 - 11:21 am: |
|
Prof: A chain stay and some heavy duty webbed strapping around the frame near the stearing head have worked for me to lift the front end up, easy as pie. You can even put the axle back on and lower on a jack stand when the wheel is off to help stabilize. A swing arm stand/race stand will work wonders for the rear wheel. Lift'er up and pull the wheel off. (putting the wheel back on can be a chore with that floating axel in the wheel, and spacers, and trying to align the brake caliper etc. Oh and don't forget to put the belt back on.) Another alternative is to use an engine "cherry picker" Pull the seat off and attach near the upper shock mount. Lift the whole bike up at once. This may require help doing the front wheel. Placing the axel back on after wheel removal and resting on a jack stand will markedly improve your stability. Jerry |
Prof_Stack
| Posted on Monday, November 04, 2002 - 03:46 pm: |
|
Thanks for the uplifting replies. Question: Can the stock muffler/exhaust support the weight of the Blast? One tech says yes, the other says no. Any ideas? |
Xgecko
| Posted on Monday, November 04, 2002 - 07:44 pm: |
|
I would say no for any length of time. I realize that it's a heavy POS but other than for a short period of time it's too great a risk |
Sarodude
| Posted on Tuesday, November 05, 2002 - 02:36 pm: |
|
Where is the Blast's speedo sensor and why do I feel lame for asking? -Saro |
Fssnoc2501
| Posted on Tuesday, November 05, 2002 - 04:37 pm: |
|
Saro, It's the black thing on top of the transmission case behind the starter. Don't feel bad I found only by tracing wires before I got a service manual. Ray |
Rebelgtp
| Posted on Tuesday, November 05, 2002 - 04:40 pm: |
|
hey guys i was sitting here trying to sift through the history on here to find the part number for the works performance front springs for the blast and i was thinking. how come we don't have somthing setup for our blasts like the x1files? you know just somplace for us to keep all our little kernels of knowledge and things of that sort. anyway since the winters here in oregon tend to be fairly wet and cold i thought i might put one together this winter if the intrest is there. what do you guys think? oh....and anyone have that part number? |
Xgecko
| Posted on Tuesday, November 05, 2002 - 06:35 pm: |
|
Just call Works Performance and tell them what you want they will sell you what you need. |