| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
Sorry - I don't have the time - however, feel free to to go at it! The only real difference I've seen between all of them is the shifting mechanism - so I'm pretty sure that is where the body of their patents stand. GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Mygirlspurplethumper |
Just got the rearsets on the honeys bike... sorta. I managed to break one bolt, lose the spacer for the brake pedal, and my pegs don't have any bolts to mount them. But otherwise they look great and I'm very excited! I couldn't believe how hard it was to get those three little mounting bolts off each side!!!I had the battery out, the breather hose and the battery cable out the bottom of the frame, the fuse cluster moved and still barely any room to work! I might have given up if the Banke products didn't look so good! | ||
| Fuell4buell |
so how can u have a passenger with rear sets? | ||
| Newblaster |
Well, do you want the short answer that's tried and true, or do you want the long answer that I don't think anyone's tried out yet? Short answer: You can't. Long, untested answer: You could run a bolt through the hollow rear axle opening, screw on a footpeg on each side, and make sure your passenger knows that the pegs will move up and down, and not to try and change that (since they'll be on the swingarm, not the frame...) Personally, I'm still not really sure the idea is a good one. Of course, it's a nonissue for me, since I have no rear subframe under the back of the seat. lol... If you decide to run the bolt, etc., you are of course being the guinea pig here, and, as such, are doing it at your own risk to life, limb, and machine. And all that other stuff. lol... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Several methods are possible depending on whether you use frame or engine mounted rearsets. 1st: cut off the rider peg section of the y-frame leaving the passenger pegs on. 2nd: drill through the swingarm and mount pegs keeping in mind you will probably have to put in a sleeve to prevent the swingarm from collapsing from over tightening the peg bolt.(The Blast would be the only bike I've owned NOT to have the passenger pegs mounted on the swingarm). 3rd: (as stated above)Run a threaded bar through the axles and bolt the p-pegs to that. Actually, some old dirt bike p-pegs bolted onto the axle, but you may have a hard time finding them that fit. There are other methods, but these are the basic 3. It also depends on how big your feet are as too what will work best! | ||
| Newblaster |
Oops, didn't even think about cutting off the rider pegs on the existing frame... I guess the fact that I've taken one off clouded my judgment there (I'm really looking forward to taking them both off, never to return, so that I'll never never never have to do that again. lol...) Didn't even think of drilling through the swingarm. Oh, well, it's all about the learning process. lol... | ||
| Vic |
Hi everyone, I dropped my bike today (just barely touched the rear tire while parking the car behind it  ). The only damage is a bent shifter lever. I have the crossroads custom rearset controls which are made of 3/8" billet aluminum. Before trying to bend it back, I wanted to to touch base with anybody familiar with aluminum. Since I'll have to twist it a bit, should/can I apply some heat first? Once again, thanks for your help. | ||
| Ezblast |
Do it cold - the heat would make it loose its temper. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
FYI to those building or modifying their own: Storz Performance reverse shifter part #HD083.20 This shifter fits perfectly on a Blast. Can be run stock or reversed and is shorter than the stock lever (1" ). (You will, of course, have the reverse shift pattern-race/GP style). About $100 with shipping though. There are probably others that will fit as well as maybe some stock Sportster ones that can be reversed. I just seemed to have trouble finding a listing or the availability of the reverse non linkage style. | ||
| Matty |
I'm planning on using the XB primary cover and shifter for my setup. =) | ||
| Ezblast |
Matty - do they match up - is the cover a bolt on? GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That would be my question too!? James drilled and tapped his Blast primary cover and the XB set up bolted right on. That is what I might end up doing, but it was easier to try out the reverse shifter first. I also like the idea that it has less moving parts. | ||
| Jprovo |
The XB cover and Blast cover hare the same gaket, so the XB should bolt right up. However, the primary chain tensioner system is toatally different. I don't know what to do there without having both side be side on the bench. It was easy to drill and tap the stock primary for the XB shifter, the Storz shifter may be even cheaper than all the XB parts too. James (Message edited by jprovo on September 06, 2005) | ||
| Matty |
My situation is a bit unique since I have all the bits for the XB and I have a broken Blast primary cover... Use what ya got kinda thing. James has brains and talent so he was able to drill and tap the stock cover. Me... I have a selection of big hammers. I'll be using the XB/Sportster chain adjuster setup as well. As a side note, the stock Blast adjusters have been holding up just fine in the race bike. I use the Storz shifter on my M2, but they do get pricey since you need to have one on the bike and one for spare! Another gripe about the Storz unit is that they aren't very adjustable. Each spline has a big effect on where the toe peg ends up and that usually means having to lift your foot entirely off the peg to downshift. It's not a problem until you get tired on the last lap and the ••• cheek cramp set in =) | ||
| Fasterblaster |
Hey..does anyone know is the Banke Rearset comes with a Brake Pedal or is that something extra, or is my kit missing it. There is a picture of it on the web site, but I do not have it in my kit...!! Ez......I am sure you know the answer to this question....  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Please read the instructions! The stock lever is used as well as a few of the stock bolts. It should also be packaged in order of assembly and be separated by shifter side and brake side.(at least thats how mine were packaged) Do not rip open the packaging and pour all the parts together! There shouldnt be any parts you need to buy. Also, the bolts may bottom out when installing the brake side plate before it is tight. This is because the threads are not clean in the bottom of the hole and may need to be 'chased' with a 1/4 x 20 tap. Enjoy your rearsets, you will notice much improved shifting and braking with them. | ||
| Fasterblaster |
Eric..how it is down the in So-Cal..with all that Fire...! Thanks for the info on the Banke. Ya..it would seems that the kit does not come with the new brake Lever, but is has a picture of one of their new Lever that matches the Shifter from the Left side. I went over the instruction, but I was hoping for some pictures to go with it. There are lots of small parts, and I really had to figure out what is what, but I think I got it all. It also seam that Banke is working on a production version of the Brake Lever in the picture, so I hope to get it when it is available. Thanks again..Eric...hope we will up meet up with the Blast gang one of these days...  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Those days will be the first weekend of April at the SLO ride. See you there! Although it seams confusing, mine did come packaged in order of assembly. Read a step in the directions and open another bag. They made it real easy. Perhaps they've done away with that (or maybe it was just a coincidence!). No fires where I live. PS If you polish up the brake pedal, it'll look real nice (and cheaper than buying a new one). | ||
| Ezblast |
Brake cleaner to clean the metal then polish - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Naustin |
Went at the stock peg brackets with a grinder and a hammer last night. I have them 90% done and looking nice. I think I'll use some QuickSteel or something to fill in a few low spots where I folded the remnants of the driver's arm over. I'll get some pictures at noon. I ran into another problem however. One of the studs on each bracket broke loose while I was hammering the shape. I'm planning to look in the yellow pages for a Mr. Fix-it type to weld that stud for me. Once that's done, I'll just need to paint them up, slap them on and this project will be complete! | ||
| Naustin |
Here's a couple of in progress pictures of the passenger pegs with the Banke's. Just dropped the passenger pegs off at local welding shop to (hopefully) take care of those loose studs.   | ||
| Ezblast |
Slick! When you start dragging those Banke pegs, just switch out to dirtbike pegs and your clearence problems will disappear! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Jugallo94 |
this winter I am modifying my stock peg. I am going to cut them so that the primary inspection cover is clear then weld some brackets in and put cityx pegs on the brackets. I will post pics later this year when it is done. My cheap version of rear sets with retaining passenger pegs. | ||
| Naustin |
I considered doing that too. Building the modifying the brackets is easy enough if you have a welder, etc. The problem is mounting the brake and rigging the shifter. I never really solved that problem, which is why I never did it. A straight arm shifter, with enough clearance to get around the primary would probably work, but I was worried that it would have to be pretty long to reach and the throw would be huge. If you rule that out, you're looking at a linkage set-up. Building one would be tricky, especially if you didn't want it to look like something from Junkyard Wars. You could buy an XB linkage - but then you're going to have to drill and tap the primary case. Maybe thats not a big deal, but then again, depending on how comfortable you are with drilling and tapping your aluminum primary case, maybe it would be. After recent events, I don't care to drill and tap anything ever again if I can avoid it! In any case, you would need to remove the primary case to avoid getting metal in your gear oil. By the time you've bought the XB shifter, built the brackets, modified your stock hangers, removed your primary case, drilled and tapped it, and finally put it all back together, you might as well have bought the Banke's. Or that's what I was always debating with myself. I'm just really glad I had the opportunity to buy these Banke's. The shifter linkage is really A-1 quality the whole kit is very well designed and made. PS) The welding shop just called, my parts are done. I'll have to pick up some paint tonight after work. Too bad it went from 75 this morning to about 55 right now. Talk about a fricken cold front! (Message edited by naustin on October 05, 2005) | ||
| Jugallo94 |
The shifter thing is one problem I havent solved yet. I plan on rotating the stock shifter lever around to the position it would need to be in and see how that works before I start cutting anything up. I really want a linkage setup but I may rig something up that looks decent. this is basically just in the beginning thought stages, so it may not happen. I am starting to get prices together for parts and ideas on what exactly I am going to do. Like I said this is a winter project, and since the season is almost over in Michigan I have about 6 months to get all this done since I cant ride anyways. | ||
| Naustin |
Looks like Gear proved the reversed shifter will work! I guess it isn't any longer than stock after all...  | ||
| Naustin |
I think I'm going to flip the nodule on the transmission shifter spline to make my Bankes reverse pattern. I had my toe under the shifter exiting a deep lean left and the side of my foot dragged, forcing me out wide. My foot was sorta trapped between the peg and the road, and if I'd caught my toe on a crack or something, I could have crashed. I figure that with a reverse pattern, that wouldn't happen... One other thing I was wondering about with the Banke set-up is how do I adjust the brake lever angle?? | ||
| Bobbyhead |
Question for Gearheaderiko, about your homemade rearsets. Did you make the plates out of steel or aluminum ? And by chance, are you willing to make up more sets to sell ? I'd really like to get some like yours, since the footpeg position is higher, as I keep hearing stories about the Bankes dragging too easy. Bobby | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Naustin: The brake lever angle is adjusted with the locknut and screw going into the master cylinder. You also may want to consider drilling the holes up 1 1/2 inches.They work fine 'as is' if you ride on your toes (race style), but if you ride with feet in a normal position, you may drag them. The Bankes are available with either drilling (and they offer to re-drill them),but its up to personal preference.(I couldnt ride with them either way!!). | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Bbyhd: The plates are aluminum. While simple, its still a lot of work to fabricate especially since the cutting is done with a jig saw! Not sure I really have the time right now. As for the Bankes dragging, it depends on riding style. Mine are 3 1/2 inches up from Naustins and I find them really, really uncomfortable (impossible with a low seat). But if you're laying on the tank for a 15 minute race, its bearable. Its also solely set up for James (and he rides on his toes!). Frankly it scares the bejeezes out of me to take a turn with them that way. Mine would be about 4" back from stock to 8 inches forward! |
