| Author |
Message |
    
Al_lighton
| | Posted on Thursday, February 12, 2009 - 06:26 pm: | 
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Update: The Blast Crossroads rearsets are FINALLY back, and I have a bunch in stock. They come with the billet pro-series pegs, and I've lowered the price a little.
See http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/6765.html
Order away, this will probably be the last batch that ever get built, but we probably have at least a years supply.
Al |
Crackhead
| | Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 09:13 am: |
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would it be possable to flip the mounting brackets for the Crossroads set over? So there isn't the raise to the pegs? |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Friday, February 13, 2009 - 02:03 pm: |
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Looking at them - I'd say no.
EZ |
Phoebe
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 04:09 pm: |
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Hey guys, I've been looking everywhere trying to find this, but with no luck. What's the torque value for the Xb shifter pivot bolt? I don't want to over-tighten it in the Blast's primary case. Thanks!
Phoebe |
Phoebe
| | Posted on Tuesday, April 14, 2009 - 06:17 pm: |
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Nevermind guys, I was able to find it in a pdf. In case anyone wants to know, it's 22-24 ft/lbs.
Phoebe |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, April 15, 2009 - 01:39 am: |
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10 ft lbs!(or less)
24 ft lbs will strip it. The only other applicable torque would be from the XB repair manual (which I cant find) and I doubt its much more, even with the 5/16" bolt. |
Milt
| | Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 09:18 am: |
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I'm thinking about making rearsets for my Blast this winter.
I'm looking for aluminum online. Is there any particular alloy I should look for or avoid?
http://www.mcmaster.com/param/html/aluminum/defaul t.htm |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, October 12, 2009 - 04:37 pm: |
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Its bound to be the cheap stuff.
"onlinemetalsupply.com and got 6061-T6 aluminum.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/442102.html?1236700207 |
Bottlefedbuell
| | Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2010 - 11:57 am: |
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Finally got to enjoy a 300 mile round trip ride this weekend!!!
Have to say the rear sets made a heck of a differance in posture and handling with minimal loss of comfort.
I now find myself just throwing the bike into corners w/o worry and sometimes even
shifting half way through to kick the rear out for fun and giggles....
With the DragSpec SuperBars, I can still lock steering and sit a lot more forward.
This bike now truly gives me the opinion that:
"Objects in mirror - No Longer Matter!!"
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Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2010 - 12:30 pm: |
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Very nice!
What did you use to cut them out?
I bet it shifts a whole lot better now too  |
Bottlefedbuell
| | Posted on Sunday, August 15, 2010 - 12:50 pm: |
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Well, I took the time to make AutoCad files
and piped them into a Laser-Mill at my buddys Machine shop. Tig welded some 1/2 tube spacers, a little smoothing and polishing and presto...
The AutoCad files are available FREE to anyone that wants them. Just PM me.
My buddy will cut them out for you too, since program is already loaded.
Purchase price at Custom Form (my buddy's shop)
6061 1/4" Alum Plate 12x18" - @$50
And he charges about $25 to cut and deburr
The laser cuts with a bevel @10degrees
so you do have to take the time to clean edges.
I also had him just burn a dot through the mounting holes and I drill pressed the final holes where they needed to be.
The spacers I cut to fit on a Bridgeport
before tig'n them in. I suggest having a local shop do that for you, as I'm sure
not all Blasts have exact same specs for these holes, especially the brake side. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 12:57 am: |
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Nice job!
EZ |
Thump
| | Posted on Monday, August 16, 2010 - 07:28 pm: |
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Those look pretty sweet! I already have a some aftermarket rear sets, but a big THANK YOU for saving your work so the rest of us can benefit.
Only if there was some way of getting rid of that dead weight plastic behind the carb.... |
Jack_crank
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 25, 2010 - 12:33 pm: |
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Those are fantastic. PMed about a set. I'm stoked for some winterwork. |
Fathermike
| | Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 03:25 pm: |
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ok, finally going to tackle my footpeg problem to get rid of the y arms. before i start i have one question, ok maybe 2.
first and foremost, relocating the brake pedal. this involves also relocating the brake cylinder & cutting the brake line. i've never dealt with brake lines other than just bleeding them. what do i need to know?
second, any sources for threaded rod? i need 10 and/or 12mm about 30cm long. i think it would be better to use grade 8 if cheap enough but i can't spend more than $20 on these parts. i'm using the bikemaster buddy pegs...for cost reasons. the 10mm has a 1.25 pitch. i'm having a hard time finding any matching hardware...rod, coupling nuts, etc. i haven't bought the 12mm ones yet but if the pitch ends up 1.75 there seem to be a couple sources of hardware to match that. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Sunday, July 03, 2011 - 09:04 pm: |
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Home Depot or Lowes!
EZ |
Fathermike
| | Posted on Monday, July 04, 2011 - 05:03 pm: |
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have i been shunned? no advice about the brakes? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, July 04, 2011 - 06:41 pm: |
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DO NOT cut the brake line.* Either bend it (I've bent them to fit rear sets and back to stock) or get a braided steel line. A front line can be substituted since it doesnt have a hard line it can be bent to fit, but you'll loose the brake light switch (there are remedies for that too). You might consider swapping out a braided steel line in the front and using the stock rubber front line in the rear.
*Sure you can use compression fittings to put the line back together. Not the best idea for used lines or brake lines, but it can be done. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Monday, July 04, 2011 - 09:34 pm: |
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LOL - I missed that - sorry - touchy aren't we?......We've only ever shunned two Blastards I have ever known - a captain David, and a guy named Ralph - both had very negative attitudes, had a problem of belittling everyone else's opinion, and generally refused to play nice in the sand boxes - needless to say you don't qualify for their status. Relax - we're all Blastards here.
EZ |
Fathermike
| | Posted on Monday, July 04, 2011 - 11:11 pm: |
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Yep, you hit the nail on the head Ed. I am uber-sensitive...
ya right
guess I was too brief for my own good and failed to deliver the dry, sarcastic wit I'm known for. Trust me, I'm just glad this board exists and you guys are so helpful. To be honest, it could be taken wrong by someone who would easily get accustomed to all your super fast responses if you ever did slip & not have all the answers!!
Thanks Erik for the info but I'm not sure I fully understand it all. The rubber on the rear that connects the hard line to the caliper, is that the same kind of hose as on the front? What about cutting that to take up the slack? I'm guessing there is some physics of hydraulics that involves the different compounds & combinations of materials. What does the braided line do besides look pretty? I know about braided wire versus say, twisted, stranded, solid-core etc. but that's electricity and/or tensile strength. I know very little about hydraulics. I know viscosity plays a role and so forth but that's it, just general stuff.
Thanks again and in advance. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, July 04, 2011 - 11:36 pm: |
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The rear brake line is one continuous piece which is rubber at the caliper and turns to solid metal at the fitting in the middle which the brake light switch screws into. Steel braided line seems to be the most easily found in custom sizes or a Blast replacement. I'm sure you could have a rubber one made up too.
The rear brake however is mostly useless for any real stopping. It locks up easily under hard braking.
Since the front does all the real stopping, a braided steel line up front can definitely improve things and it is available as a stock Blast part (2000 model year) or as a replacement Blast specific part from Galfer and maybe others.
The front brake line is also one piece and can be substituted in place of the rear brake line. Its all rubber (except the ends) so it can be routed anywhere. However it does not have the junction for the brake light switch. That can be replaced by a pull switch or a switch at the master cylinder or just left out. The front brake has a switch and you'll be using that anyway.
So....if you are going to be replacing one brake line with a braided steel line (and you want to save money) the front is where to put it. Looks nice on the rear, but its pointless for performance.
*It has been a few years since I fitted a front brake line on the rear. I'm pretty sure there isnt a problem, but I'd fit it first. Also, the front brake is darn near impossible to bleed. So dont be surprised if it doesnt bleed easily.
(Message edited by gearheaderiko on July 04, 2011) |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Monday, July 04, 2011 - 11:37 pm: |
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PS Cutting the brake line isnt necessary or advised. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 02:33 am: |
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Bravo! Well said!
EZ |
Phoebe
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 08:46 am: |
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Here's the easiest solution: use the front stainless braided line that was on the early Blasts, but put it on the back. If you want to retain a brake light switch on the rear brake, use a banjo bolt pressure switch instead of the normal banjo bolt. Easy peasy. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 09:28 am: |
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No, the easiest solution is to just use the stock rear brake line that came with the bike!
The only reason to trade front and rear lines and buy the steel braided line is for better braking up front and cost savings of not buying 2 brake lines. |
Fathermike
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 11:18 am: |
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Ok now I'm confused more. Erik, I thought you said not to use the rear line? OK, you said don't cut it but how can all that metal tube line be bent? It seems like it would kink or something as there is a lot to get out of the way. It looks like I can get a used stock front line for like $13 w/ shipping incl. If there is a cheaper/easier alternative please let me know. Braided line looks like $40 minimum. I'm not normally so cheap but am broke right now. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 05, 2011 - 11:49 am: |
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What you do is gently flex the line into the position you want, then bolt the cylinder down, then, loosen the line banjo bolt to take tension off the line, then tighten back up.
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2011 - 01:12 am: |
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Concur! Use the rear line, bend gently in an arc, not a hard right angle. Seems like a lot of line, but it really isnt. Thats the cheapest way to go. I've used the stock rear lines for rearsets and bent them back for Y-frames and bent them back again for rearsets. You dont actually need to loosen the banjo bolt either!
I'm sorry. I tend to give a lot more information than whats really needed. EZ's good with the one liners. I need paragraphs! |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2011 - 01:18 am: |
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Here's a picture of a set with the stock brake line bent. Thats about as tight a bend as you can make without crimping the line.
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/290322.jpg |
Schmokin
| | Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 03:42 am: |
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Recently wrecked my 2008 Blast and repairing is turning out to be a bit expensive.
Is there a cheaper alternative to the stock part # L2132.TA while maintaining stock footpeg position? I imagine if I bent it back into a somewhat normal position it would compromise the integrity of the metal? |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 09:28 am: |
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Bend it back. If it's too badly twisted, you likely have more issues.
Used can be had on eBay, but very few are straight. One drop and they can bend. |
Schmokin
| | Posted on Thursday, August 13, 2015 - 06:37 pm: |
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It's not too bad. The passenger peg side is maybe only an inch away from normal, the rider peg is probably 2" bent in towards the engine and slightly twisted. |
