| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
"...if the reason to brake is a road hazard (sand,dirt, water,ice,RR tracks etc.)using the front only can be very bad..." - everything but the RR tracks looks like good reasons - tracks are everywhere in SF - you get used to them - lol - I'd just hate to see anyone using the rear braking into a corner - bad juju there - sure a few of the dirt riders and the very top 5 out of the top 10 also do this, but then they are paid for those skills - high siding while running an errand to get groceries would suck - use your rear brake with your front as much as you want, but the important part is to remember when not to use it, and I feel if folks are too used to using it they will forget the even more important part - when not to use it! Yeah - its a sticky subject - So I guess thats where personal comfort levels come in as well - Tony, Ralph, and a few other folks with years and years of dirt riding do it - they can control it through years of experience - most others are not holding such cards though, and experimenting on pavement would just lead to pain ... at least. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ  | ||
| Naustin |
Those Banke sets are looking cheaper and cheaper. I saw some bikes with passanger pegs and Banke sets, also. How well does that work out? | ||
| Ezblast |
I've found if you replace the pegs that Banke supplies you with in the kit with short dirt track pegs any clearancing issues disapear in cornering. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark! EZ | ||
| Naustin |
I meant, would the passanger's feet be too close to the back of your legs if you had banke rear sets and stock passenger pegs? It looks like there could be some issues with that. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I've mounted them both at the same time and unless you're carrying Bozo the Clown (or you are Bozo)there shouldn't be a problem. | ||
| Ezblast |
Ralph - beg to differ - took said course and though your dirt track riding experience tells you otherwise, it is extremely unsafe to brake in corners. I am not an instructer, however, I belong to and participate frequently in a beginners bike forum and know that what I am saying is a 100% correct from a sportbike view/perspective. You are wrong - most racers on a street track do not use the rear in the corner - comming in yes - only a handfull with heavy dirt experience as well do braking in the corner - I brake with both comming into a corner now and again also - if I think it will help set the bike for a turn - but to brake while turning will only lead to a high side over 90% of the time amongst normal riders - I never said don't use your rear break - reread the posts - my recommendation has always been to use it as need arises but don't try it in the corners - for safe reasons. At a track day, or get loan of a dirt bike and try it on dirt trails, but going over a cliff on hwy 1 due to high siding would suck! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Key word - "before" - I do that - during - you can list on 2 hands the pro's who can do that safely during a race and have fingers left over! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Blake |
I don't use the rear brake racing on the track ever nor do I use it on the street unless the road is dirty/slippery or once in a while to make sure it still works. 100% of the panic stopping power of my Cyclone and any other lightweight sporting motorcycle is in the front brake. It's pretty easy to prove too. Use the rear brake in a panic stop on a lightweight sporting motorcycle and you risk losing the rear and instigating a highside. One of the most valuable riding safety exercises I do is to routinely practice panic stops to ingrain into my consciousness the capability of the front brake/tire. My philosophy is that using ANY brake in a turn on the street is a really bad idea. Save it for the panic situation. If you are pushing that hard on the street, you are likely consuming any margin for error you may someday need to escape death or serious injury. Just my opinion. Be safe. Besides that the single little piston combined with the small rear disk make for short rear brake pad life. You know, debate like this is what the forum is ALL about. It is damn unfortunate that some egos are so pathetically fragile that when faced with a differing opinion they react with disrespect and condescension. Though it must be great to be right all the time.  edited by blake on May 22, 2004 | ||
| Halfaharley |
It seems as if you guys are basically arguing about what riding styles you prefer to use. If your riding wide guts into the corners every time it's generally not a good idea to heavily brake with the rear. However, with normal (average) riding, even going into the corners, if you need to break, it is generally a good habit to practice balanced breaking with both front and rear. The bike is designed with the fact in mind that the front break is going to provide %75 of the breaking power, and the rear, the remaining %25. This means that there is no way you can achieve your maximum breaking potential using any break alone. Generally, its best to use both in most situations, because using the front brake with the rear is going to balance the rear brake's effect out making it less likely to lock up and vise/versa with the front. And most important, it all varies with our riding styles. Most of us are not road racing! | ||
| Ezblast |
Braking in the middle of a corner - with the rear break especially - is an almost guarenteed recipe for high siding - so I do recommend not breaking there - all MSF courses teach that as well. This isn't really a matter of road racing or bets would be off - do what you can to get around the corner quicker is still the rule there and if you can pull it off without killing yourself good for you - that is the risk you take - though you should save that for track road racing. I am talking about daily riding even on your favorite back road - like I said - high siding on hwy 1 would suck! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Java |
This is a fun one. My "official" answer has to be "always us both brakes, all the time", like the MSF says. Under fire, you will do what you've "trained yourself" to do. I'm an instructor, so that has to be my official answer. That said, except in the cases of the exceptions someone has already listed, I seldom use my back brake. Back in the '80s, I didn't own a car, and rode for 6 weeks with a cast on my broken right ankle. No rear brakes.(for any rookies reading this, do NOT try this at home) As for the mod that started this discussion, again, my "official" opinion has to be "my God, it's a death trap!", but really? I wouldn't hesitate to ride it. I've got to side with EZ on this one, any instance I can think of where I'd want my rear brake, my feet would be on the forward pegs anyway. Have Fun, Tom | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think for the most part we all agree to some extent,perhaps split between those of us who've ridden bikes where the rear brake is worthless & those who have ridden bikes where you cant stop without using the rear brake.None can disagree with the fact that the harder you stop,the more work the front brake is going to be doing. What I strongly disagree with is mounting the shifter & brake pedal on a different 'axis'(As if mounted on 2 different placed shafts rather than one invisible shaft running from the shifter through the brake pedal).The most hazardess times are when you need to use them both and you'll be running down the road one foot on the rear peg,one foot on the forward peg.While you can get used to riding that way,there are certainly much better and safer options. Our discussions here are based on sport riding and maybe my problem is that I've seen to many road hazards and have ridden in every weather and road condition I can think of.I guess maybe I'm a little too cautious. | ||
| Ezblast |
Its true on cruisers - so I've heard - that both brakes are needed to stop the bike, but sport bikes are a different matter - in fact the brakes on the 2000 Blasts where considered to work too well and where softened just a bit by going to the rubber hose from the braided steel. Thats true also - my Red bike - both had front pads changed at the same time - has the 2000 line and brakes noticably faster than my black, and if your real sensitive to front end feel you can feel the very slightest pull on the one side - equalized with the fork brace. Todays sportbikes - including the Blast - have excellent front brakes! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Toadboy |
I use both brakes, but I'm a noob  Anywho, first post for me. Go me! I searched all over the archives for this, figured I'd go ahead and ask. Anybody know an easy way to get the splined collar off the shifter shaft? Toadboy | ||
| Ezblast |
Remove tightening bolt/screw, see if will gently pry off - use a rag rolled to protect case - if doesn't, then WD40, then try to minutely pry open a smallest tad the gap, then try with rag protecting to pry off again - repeat if nesc. but it shouldn't be - be gentle and carefull so you don't scratch or over bend anything! Hope that helps! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Toadboy |
Sweeeeeet! Somehow I thought the Dark Lord of the Sith would have an answer. Sounds like a good plan. Thanks! | ||
| Halfaharley |
I used a little two prong gear puller, but I'm sure that was a bit overkill. I had it handy and it worked like a charm, though! I have taken shifters off other bikes using the method EZ suggested, and that usually works fine also. --Nik | ||
| Toadboy |
Used the WD40, a small pry bar, and a little Toadboy muscle. Didn't work. More WD40, small pry bar, and some Toadboy brains instead of brawn and it popped right off. Put Sportster shift lever on the Hottie's (my wifey) Blast, and she'll wake up tomorrow with a nice little present. Thanks for the tips, Nik and EZ! | ||
| Joey |
Looks like I'll be hanging out in this area for a bit, as I'm beveling my stock pegs... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Hey Mmelvis, did you actually mount that modified stock set up (or was it photo shop)? How's it working out so far? Problems? | ||
| Mmelvis |
Gearheaderiko No not a photoshop, done for real. Right now it is working great on the street. I have a trackday coming up this sunday at one of the small local tracks, lots of tight turns. This is when I will know for sure if the mods really work. | ||
| Vic |
Hi everyone, I'm trying to remove the stock footpeg brackets in my Blast to install the custom rearsets that I just received from Crossroads. However, with all the wires running under the seat and with the studs being in such hard to reach places, I'm wondering how you guys did it. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Cover battery to avoid grounding out. 3/8 drive ratchet,12" or longer extension and flex socket. | ||
| Ezblast |
You'll find that you have more room to work if you take the battery out! The Crossroad units are great! Enjoy! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Vic |
Thanks guys! I will work on it today. Can wait! | ||
| Carcass |
What happened to Motocyclestore.com? I finally am going to spring for Banke rearsets, and the website is down? Anyone know where else I can get them? I wish Storz would make'em; they're in my home town. Maybe I could convince them to make a one-off?  | ||
| Ezblast |
Contact Banke direct - there is a link, or contact our sponsor American Sport Bike and see what they can do for ya - they sell other Banke stuff so it wouldn't be a big stretch to get them for ya. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ezblast |
Making your own rear sets shouldn't cost a bundle, should be easy to do using as many of the stock parts as possible, and should be heavy duty enough for every day street usage. The keys - measurements and what parts can I use and what do I have to fabricate are the initial questions asked. If you study both the Bankes, CrossRoad, WhiteBrothers, and that S1 Blast pics you will see many easy simularities between all their set ups - the half moon peg holder/heal guard plate bolted to the rear of the case on the shifter side and a larger plate holding the peg and full brake assembly on the right. The measurements for both plates is as simple as picking out the desired cardboard shape you wish to use - trim to fit with swing arm and seat clearence in mind, give yourself a 1/4" clearence for primary side, and mark where the bolt holes go and your done - using the cardboard as a template cut out your metal plate to fit the template of cardboard - using your favorite cutters - dremel, rotozip, metal cutting bandsaw, disc cutter - your choice - once you have your general plates cut, check them for fit and measure again for where the bolt holes will go to the engine - this is checked with the arms and front belt guard off - the bolts on the primary/shift side are cover bolts 9, 10, and 11, and on the brake side the front cover bolt locations are used. One other hole on the shift side will be drilled and five other on the brake side will be drilled - the mounting ones are the most critical though so check those twice or more before drilling or you'll end up making a new plate - plate materials - alum .33 width or .25 steel and a washer to make up the dif. - brake side spacers should be aprox. 1.69", bolts from bolt end to bottom of bolt head should be aprox. 2.476". On the shift side - the middle spacer is 1.5" and the bolt is from bolt end to bottom of bolt head should be 3.725", and the top and bottom spacers should be 1.258" with the bolts from bolt end to bottom of bolt head should be 3.459". Now for the shifter on the Blast - several different options are available (XB/Banke style, S1/Crossroads style, Dirttrack/modified sporster shifters reversed, etc.) - easiest and least expensive is to take the shift lever to a vise and add rubber protectors to the jaws - insert wrapped shift arm base into vise and secure firmly, take a soft sided mallet and give it a few wacks so that the arm bends out just a bit more for clearance of the clutch cover, then re-install in that reverse pattern/facing the opposite way going across the cover - drill to mount some universal bolt mount foot peg to the height and distance you want from the shifter - your now done with the shift side. The brake side is a bit more complicated with five additional mounting points to consider - you want your break levor to be basically the same height area as your shifter, you'll notice your rear slave cylinder is attached to this levor, so you want to drill the hole for the break levor far enough back on the plate that you can mount the slave cylander to the rear upper edge area of the plate - measure and drill accordingly, then drill the hole for the brake foot peg so that it eyeball matches the profile of the shift peg. Last mount your rear brake resavour to a hole you will drill in the reartop corner of the break plate. The holes for all the fasteners should be no bigger than the bolt shafts - with the bolt shafts barely clearing through the holes - the spacers - almost universally - at least with all the sets I've seen have been ultra thick walled alum. tubbing - width 0.46" - same as you can buy at a HD, LOWES, etc. - cut accordingly. Once you have all your nescessary holes drilled - you can take the plates and customize according to tastes - paint or polish, cut holes or designs in to lighten and personalize. Remount everything in red locktight - heavy duty - and enjoy custom rearsets at a fraction of the cost. The platestock - 50, tube stock - 20, longer bolts of the right type and grade - 20, cool custom foot pegs - 20 - the rest is your blood, sweat, and tears - measure twice or more to make sure of the mounting points for all the drilling and avoid custom cutting until you are sure of these drill points and they are drilled - then modify. There you have it inexpensive rearsets! Are these instructions a bit vaugue - yes - torque values are the same as stock pieces, and the bolts used should be the same grade/or as close to as the stockers with the only modifications being going to matching hex head type on the brake side - otherwise I've left enough room for customizations while getting the basics right. You'll have to trim some brake hose and reroute the hard brake line (gently recurve and no hard bends and you'll be ok) - if done right no bleeding will be nescessary. Hope this helps for all the penny pinchers/and customizers who think - as I do - that 500 is too much for any set of rear sets - yes with some thought and proper procedure you can make your own for a lot less - I hope this helps! Important Note: Your shift pattern is now race style - 4 down and one up! Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ (Message edited by ezblast on February 27, 2005) | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
Thanks EZ! | ||
| Naustin |
So, how much are these EZ-Sets going to cost if we just buy them from you?  |
