Author |
Message |
Jugallo94
| Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2005 - 04:41 pm: |
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Is anyone running synthetic? I looked through here and couldnt find anything, maybe not looking deep enough. I am makeing a trip fro detroit to Appleton labor day weekend and want to change the fluids in the trans and engine. I was thinking of swithing to synthetic but am not sure what is good. I have been using whatever the dealer recommends up til now. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2005 - 04:44 pm: |
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Mobil 15/50 for both works well. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2005 - 08:12 pm: |
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Redline 20-50 engine & 75/90 for the trans(NOT Redline SHOCKPROOF-thats for big twin trannies only) or you can also use the Screaming Eagle/HD stuff too. Although I prefer Redline, there is a definite convenience advantage to using the same stuff in engine & trans. |
Jprovo
| Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2005 - 08:27 pm: |
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I've ran Castrol Synth 20-50, Mobil 1 15-50, HD Syn 3?, and Mobil 1 Expended Performance 15-50 which I will run for 5000 miles. I've ran the same stuff in my trans and engine and I've also run Mobil 1 75W-90 Gear Lube in my Trans. I don't notice the difference between any of the oils. James |
Swampy
| Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2005 - 10:26 pm: |
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Mobile 1 synthetic in the trans, and Castrol 20-50 synthetic in the engine.(Better have changed you rocker cover gaskets because its looking for a way out) |
Jugallo94
| Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2005 - 08:18 am: |
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Yep already changed the rocker cover gaskets. They started leaking a few weeks ago on my way out to the drapstrip. |
Buellboy492
| Posted on Thursday, August 11, 2005 - 10:45 pm: |
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On advice of others on this board who have logged many miles (Jprovo) I switched to Castrol syntec 20/50 and Mobile 1 gear oil in the trans. I documented increased gas mileage and higher top speed- and "felt" nicer shifting. I also adjusted the primary- which may have contributed to some of the same- but not having to change oil as often is a plus for me!! |
Burnmyheartdown
| Posted on Friday, August 12, 2005 - 01:45 am: |
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Jprovo Sorry man, I was out of town. I had to cut the header outlets on the pro-series with a dremel to get it to fit, but after that and a little muscle it did. It sounds really mellow and there's a huge power hit compared to the Jardine. The Jardine just says 'Oh, you want some top end?' and there it is. I can't get the bike over 90 with the pro-series, where I used to run it right up to 96 no problems with the jardine. |
Jprovo
| Posted on Friday, August 12, 2005 - 08:50 am: |
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BurnMy, Glad to see you got it mounted, kinda bummed about your performance though. Now that I think about it, my bike performed differently when I replaced my first pro-series with another one a few months (maybe 6) ago. Looking at the old (my first one) Pro series, most of the fiberglass had blown out, and the new pipe was much quieter. Given time, the packing will loosen up, and the bike will start to run differently, at least a little louder! All in all I agree with your assesment of the Pro Series. I think that you loose a few horses on top with the Pro-Series compared to some of the other pipes, but they have durability that only the stock boat anchor can rival. James |
Burnmyheartdown
| Posted on Saturday, August 13, 2005 - 08:52 pm: |
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James, Yeah. I was looking at that interior baffle thing, and I am almost positive that if you just drilled a little hole in each baffle, it wouldn't make it too much louder, but it might just let a little more top end out. I don't have the tools to actually try though so I won't. Just brainstorming. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, August 14, 2005 - 05:34 pm: |
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There is a possibility that drilling larger/extra holes in the baffles will change exhaust flow charactoristics and change the power band or even lose power. Because the ideal Blast exhaust should be much longer, baffles may be located in places to trick the engine into 'thinking' the exhaust is longer. (IE: White Brothers or Supertrapp tuneable mufflers) |
Jugallo94
| Posted on Monday, August 15, 2005 - 09:08 am: |
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Has anyone ran amsoil in their blasts? I have heard great things about this, just wondering if it is good for the blast aswell. |
Sphere79
| Posted on Monday, August 15, 2005 - 12:14 pm: |
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I run Amsoil in my Blast exclusively. 2 Quarts of 20w 50 in the engine and one in the tranny. It's a little bit more than Mobil 1 but is a better quality synthetic. My brother who does alot of commuting in his Chevy swore by Mobil 1 until he tried Amsoil. Don't let the whole direct-sold multi-level marketing thing throw you off. Get some, try it and you'll like it. |
Jugallo94
| Posted on Monday, August 15, 2005 - 03:44 pm: |
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Thanks I think I am going to go with the amsoil if I can find any around. |
Sphere79
| Posted on Monday, August 15, 2005 - 04:46 pm: |
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The only thing that sucks is the Amsoil filter (they make awesome filters as well) for the Blast is only available in white, since they just give you the Toyota 1.8l equivalent. Their other bike-specific filters have choices of black or chrome, but I know it's one of the best filters on the market so I run the white one and deal with it. Any true synthetic will keep the engine starting better in cold weather and running cooler overall than dino oil. The biggest thing you'll notice INSTANTLY will be the smoother shifting tranny. And especially with our small air-cooled bike engines, why mess around? It's only a few quarts, spend the money and it'll be worth it in the long run..... I'd get 4 quarts of V-Twin 20w50 (AMVQT) - $6.90 each full retail - 3 for the bike and one for topping - and one filter (SDF10) - $12.60 full retail. It's alot I know, but you can put the filter side by side to other brands and SEE that it's constructed better (thicker metal, double-crimps, etc.) and it's filtering with the best materials possible, not cardboard like some other cheapies. The quality of the filter is just as if not MORE important than the oil. If it doesn't do it's job than the dirt particles will wear your engine prematurely. |
Jugallo94
| Posted on Monday, August 15, 2005 - 04:54 pm: |
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I had planned on just using a stock blast filter. Is it not compatible with the synthetics |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, August 15, 2005 - 05:37 pm: |
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See the oil section - the Blast filter can be had at Walmart for 1.99 - Supretech 4967 - lol - and yes you can use synth with it. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Sphere79
| Posted on Monday, August 15, 2005 - 07:35 pm: |
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> I had planned on just using a stock blast filter. Is it not compatible with the synthetics The filter will work fine with the Harley OEM one (usually $6.99) or any other one. You'll get the tranny benefits but personally for engine longevity I pay for good filters/oil in all my cars and vehicles. It does matter. Really hardcore users will add additional external oil filtration systems to some engines which will preserve oil and extend intervals. I actually visually compared the Amsoil filter for my wife's Intrepid to the Wal-Mart version my dad had in his cabinent (for a Dakota but exactly the same). You can see the metal is thicker, looks nicer quality, and is crimped better. I know from comparison tests that the material inside is better, the internal valve is better, etc. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html This guy did his own "study" which if nothing gives you an idea of which one's are made like crap. Also, while it's not so much of a benefit for the bike, using a quality filter allows me to get over 12,000 miles per oil change. It's a dirty little industry secret that Mobil is finally admiting - 3,000 mile car oil change intervals are not needed when quality, properly filtered synthetic oil is used. Those guys with the external systems go 30,000 miles...... |
Ezblast
| Posted on Monday, August 15, 2005 - 07:43 pm: |
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Both oils, filter, plug, plug wire and intake boot - every 2500 miles - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Burnmyheartdown
| Posted on Tuesday, August 16, 2005 - 01:59 am: |
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I run Purolator oil filters.....sparkly blue, and I remember reading a guy's review of oil filters that cut a bunch apart and he thought the purolator PureONE filters were the best quality. I get it at pepboys for $5 bucks. Purolator PureONE - PL14476 I used to use motul 3000 for the engine, but was sick of paying $6 a quart for it with how much oil it burns. I'm using Valvoline VR1 Racing 50 right now. Hoping for the top end to grenade before too long so that I can nallanize it Redline 75W-90 in the transmission is awesome. I put mine in about 7,000 miles ago, and in the last two hundred miles it is back to shifting how it did when I got it. The other 6,000 and some odd miles were much smoother though, and I think it's like 10.75 a quart. I haven't changed mine lately cuz I'm lazy. BTW, does anyone know if you can use one of the nice yellow XB performance plug wires one the blast? I doubt it, but I figure it's worth a shot, maybe the front one would fit it.......? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, August 16, 2005 - 03:21 pm: |
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Perhaps the longer one? GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Burnmyheartdown
| Posted on Wednesday, August 17, 2005 - 02:08 am: |
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hmmmm...guess I'll have to see how much a set costs and try it out. |
Burnmyheartdown
| Posted on Saturday, August 20, 2005 - 11:16 pm: |
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Anybody want to part with their stock air box? Mines leaking goo out onto my right side foot peg assembly. I think it's pretty much done in. Or should I just go with the pro-series intake? I don't think the pro-series will add much bang for it's price....suggestions...or anybody wanna get rid of their old air box? |
Jprovo
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 10:13 am: |
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BurnMy, What's it leaking?? Gas? Oil? Your profile sez that you re routed your breather to outside the airbox, so it's probably not oil... Unless you have a new K&N air filter and it was over-oiled. Is the box getting melted or something? I don't think that you need a new airbox unless something is melted or broken. It's a plastic box, what could go wrong with it? Take the airbox off the bike, clean it and find out what the source of the "goo" is. One thing to look at the the bundle of wires and hoses that are located just to the rear of the airbox. The airbox has relatively sharp edges and can cut into that wiring harness, and the hoses. The box might have just cut into one of those hoses, and that is the source of your "goo". James |
Swampy
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 10:00 pm: |
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I got real bad news! I found the primary drive sprocket nut loose and the crankshaft was stripped! I must not have gotten the crankshaft nut tight enough with enough locktite on it 10,000 miles ago when the shift drum retaining screw got loose. Anybody Got Crank? Maybe a complete engine? The Big Kid starts college next week, and Grandma wants college reciepts for all the college money she dropped off Saturday. Anybody want to see pictures? Anybody have any ideas? |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2005 - 11:39 pm: |
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Time to put in the new Buell tranny! - lol - sorry no help. GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2005 - 02:11 am: |
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There was a crank on e-bay a couple months ago. I dont know if you can still do a past history of sales on ebay though (I dont think it sold). |
Swampy
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2005 - 09:23 am: |
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I remember seeing it also. I checked completed listings but none showed. If you see anything let me know. Thanks |
Naustin
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2005 - 09:43 am: |
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Wow does that ever suck. Good luck and I hope things work out. |
Burnmyheartdown
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2005 - 11:48 am: |
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James, I had the crankcase breather tube rerouted, but put it back to stock for some reason I can't remember a while back. The stuff is definitely coming out the bottom of the airbox. The airbox isn't sealing all the way at the bottom, just enough for a little bit of stuff to ooze out. |
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