Author |
Message |
Xgecko
| Posted on Thursday, June 27, 2002 - 12:46 am: |
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The basis for my intake is a Kurykyn extension spacer. I had it tapped 1/4 20 so that I can use some angle iron and go from that hole to one of the airbox mounts. Speaking of that I should probably finish building mine now that I'm back for a while. |
Joey
| Posted on Friday, June 28, 2002 - 01:10 pm: |
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Will this fit my Blast!? |
Hootowl
| Posted on Friday, June 28, 2002 - 01:16 pm: |
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I don't think it will. From what I understand, the Blast/Firebolt does not use the same trapdoor tranny as the Sporty. |
Xgecko
| Posted on Friday, June 28, 2002 - 02:40 pm: |
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No it will not work with without lots of rework on the cases |
Spooky
| Posted on Friday, June 28, 2002 - 07:13 pm: |
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Well the bike is out of the shop at last. Had them put the White Bro's pipe on the bike while they were at it. The voltage regulator was bad ($33.00 for a new one, part # Y0302.T). They couldn't find anything wrong with the rear sprocket. When I left the shop I took the long way home (300 miles v 40 miles). I love the way the bike runs now. |
Dansherman
| Posted on Friday, June 28, 2002 - 09:36 pm: |
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I really hate to have to ask, but where does the pilot jet go? I took the stupid screws out ok, got replacements, all that is set. Swapped out the main jet, that was easy. I'm sure the pilot is just as simple, if I could just find it! -- dan |
Dansherman
| Posted on Friday, June 28, 2002 - 10:55 pm: |
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PS. A picture or diagram would be awesome! |
Blake
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 01:11 am: |
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Pilot jet screws into cavity in underside of carb. There's a diagram around here somewhere, I think. I'd post one but still am waiting for HDD recovery. |
Dansherman
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 11:28 am: |
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Ok, I've got the jets swapped and the airbox opened up. I fired it up, everything sounded fine. (It took a second to catch, but I figured it just took a moment to get some fuel to the engine.) I ran it up and down my street a few times (1/4 mile), at the end of the second length (1/2 mile) the engine started sputtering and popping. I turned around, accelerated again and pulled into my driveway. I coasted down the hill (in neutral) and when I got to the garage the engine died. I tried firing it up again, and it would start, but then die a few seconds later unless I stayed on the thottle. Even then it sometimes dies. I thought I might be out of gas (130 miles on this tank and a little bit leaked when I was taking it apart) so I filled up and tried again. The engine started up right away, but was running really unevenly. I let it sit for minute, hoping it would even out. After 45 seconds or so it died again. It sounded like, and I could be completely wrong, the auto-choke couldn't figure out what to do. Don't know why I think that though. Anyway, if you've got any ideas, I'd love to hear them. -- dan |
Dansherman
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 12:14 pm: |
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Ok, I spent a couple more minutes trying to figure it out. Everyting runs great when the RPMS are up, but when I drop into neutral it dies. I suppose that means it has something to do with the pilot jet. But what could it be? I'd rather not take the bike apart again unless I know what I'm looking for. -- dan |
Xgecko
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 01:07 pm: |
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could be your fuel air mix....too rich or too lean/ |
Fssnoc2501
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 01:59 pm: |
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Dan, Two things to look at 1) is the carb fully seated into the intake boot, the condition you discribe sounds like an air leak which would make it very lean, 2) make sure that the vent hose on the tank is not kinked which also causes fuel starvetion. Ray |
Dansherman
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 03:41 pm: |
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Well, I swapped the 45 pilot for the 42 to see if that helped. It didn't. So I switched it back, made sure all the seals were tight, and started fiddling with the idle adjuster. It's now set so the engine idles pretty high (in first gear I do 8-10 mph). This doesn't seem like a very good (long term) fix though. Xgecko - How do I adjust the fuel/air mix? -- dan |
Blake
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 05:43 pm: |
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Dan, Check for a leak at the intake to cylinder head seal. Set it at a fast idle (2000 rpm or so) and spray contact cleaner or WD-40 all around the seal. If the engine speed noticably changes, you have an intake seal leak. Also check the seal at the carb outlet as Ray suggests, use the same method as described above. Let us know what you find. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 07:54 pm: |
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Changing out my tranny fluid - how much should I put in once its empty. Using mobil 1 75/90 synth.would be apreciated. A level area doesn't exist(outside) in my hood - SF - Blasting on the dark side!EZ |
Mavinwy
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 08:30 pm: |
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32oz according to the manual EZ. Mav |
Fssnoc2501
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 08:34 pm: |
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Dan, Check that rubber boot closely, I've had two split on me. This creates an uncomfortable situation at 70 mph. Symptoms are simular to yours. Won't run at normal idle. If left unfixed can cause major engine damage. Ray |
Strat81
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 09:58 pm: |
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Hi everyone! I recently had a new exhaust put on (White Bros. E-Series) along with a K&N air filter and jet kit. The bike sounds great and there is definitely some more power at the right grip. However, starting the engine, especially when cold, is not easy the way it was before when it was stock. The starter cranks but the motor just doesn't want to catch. Sometimes it'll sputter for a second and then die. It almost sounds like I need to pull the choke out (like on a Sportster) but obviously my little Blast doesn't have a choke. If I twist the throttle as I push the starter it'll start up but will run a bit unevenly. My guess is the auto-enrichener is a bit confuse by the new mods. Any ideas how to remedy this? Thanks in advance! |
Xgecko
| Posted on Saturday, June 29, 2002 - 11:00 pm: |
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Rich you have more back pressure now which means you need to open it up a bit more on startup. You could try adjusting you idle a bit and that might help but what you describe is what my bike feels like every day and I've had an aftermarket pipe on it for +2 years. |
Blake
| Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 03:45 am: |
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EZ, Tranny capacity is 32 onces, but some usually fails to drain, so you may only need to add 28 onces. Fill it just enough to touch the bottom of the metal disk looking spring plate when the bike is sitting level (sorry, you'll have to find a level spot somewhere). XG, You mean "less" back-pressure, right? |
Dansherman
| Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 09:51 am: |
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Ray - I'm not quite sure what you mean by "rubber boot." I'm guessing it's the venturi ring that helps hold the airbox onto the carb. Looking at it I can see that the plastic is stressed (getting some white in it) around one of the screws, I must have overtightened it. The other ones look OK though. Blake - I left the carb on the bike the whole time, could it still have come loose? I'm going to try the WD40 test later today, I'll let you guys know what I find. -- dan |
Aaron
| Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 10:25 am: |
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He's talking about the boot between the carb and intake manifold. And I agree with him, it can be a tad fragile and it ought to be inspected. |
Subarubrat
| Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 10:50 am: |
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Another thing to consider is the possibility that you damaged the Jet itself. I had a proper fitting screwdriver and still put some pretty good marks into the soft brass on the one I removed. I would check it. |
Fssnoc2501
| Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 12:15 pm: |
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Dan, The boot between the carb and the intake like Aaron said. It's abit fragile and splits easy. LOOK closely it can be deceiving. Ray |
Dansherman
| Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 04:04 pm: |
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Guys - That makes a lot more sense (about the boot)... I tried the WD40 test: Nothin. I got the engine running at a pretty quick idle (don't know the RPMs, but it sounded like normal driving speed) and sprayed WD40 all around the seal, both sides and the top and bottom as much as I could. I waited a second, but couldn't tell any change in the engine speed. Tony had said it might be the air/fuel mix. How to I adjust that? It's a screw isn't it? -- dan |
Subarubrat
| Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 05:39 pm: |
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The screw is under a cap you have to drill out. I really doubt it is out of adjustment as it can't be accessed and your mild mods would not put it out of range enough. There are some helpful photos and info at this fellows site: http://bcrider.com/blast1.html |
Xgecko
| Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 05:58 pm: |
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Blake no I did not I know my WB has greater back pressure than either the V&H or the stock pipe. If I don't gas it on startup I get back pressure through the carb. Sorry Dan my book is at work. |
Rd350
| Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 09:48 pm: |
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Dan when you where changing out the pilot did you bump the float bowl? |
Strat81
| Posted on Sunday, June 30, 2002 - 11:08 pm: |
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Xgecko, Even with the throttle wide open it still takes a few twists and a few seconds of pressing the starter. When the work was done I had the tech bump the idle up about 100 rpm anyway. Think it should go up a little more? If so, how would I do it? Thanks! |
Dansherman
| Posted on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 12:05 am: |
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Rd350 - How do you mean? I took it off, set it on the ground and put it back on.. -- dan |