| Author | Message | ||
     Sarodude |
RD or an Anon in the know- PLEASE spill some frijoles!  There happens to be a Quick Board Topic for such a purpose. -Saro | ||
| Blake |
RD, I'd sure be interested in seeing a summary of the mods you put into your S1 that totalled $15K. I bought my current '97 M2 a year ago for $6K. It included $2,500 of accessories... rear sets, clipons, race intake, 2-1/2" SS S1W header, Borla CF muffler, screw on oil cap, bar end mirrors, adjustable break lever, billet pulley cover, frame brace, spare brake pads, billet front turn signals, dust cover, tank bag. I've since put $2.5K into Nallinization. I just can't imagine where I would put another $10K. Maybe a Mikuni, penske shock, gold valves for front shocks, PM wheels, chain conversion, race header/muffler. That would add around another $4K so I'm up to $9K total, $6K still to go. Go for the entire CF bodywork, a tack kit, custom paint job, aluminum oil tank... That would add another $4K, still need another $2K to get to $15K. Oh yeah, a SSSwingarm! At $4K, that would put me at $17K! I suppose you spent a bunch of money on a big motor or something. Nothing wrong with spending a wad on a good 88" motor, but I certanly wouldn't expect a TL1000S to "kill the S-1 in everything" if that were the case. | ||
| Dust_Storm |
Hmmmm.. $10,000 for an S1, $15,000 in mods - I woulda bought a Ducati  , it might have been cheaper.. As for things holding value over time? Try what your typing on right now. 3 years ago you spent close to $2,000 on a computer that today is worth approximately $50. And the worst part is that we still haven't figured that out yet, and as such we continue to buy new computers ever other year (or in my case, every 6 months.. oiiiii...) One of the benefits (or curses) of working for the industry. I sure wish I would smarten' up sometime.... [Ds] | ||
| Xgecko |
I want this Blast | ||
| Rd350 |
Blake, I will give you the run down on the S-1 sometime. Everytime I think about it. It hurts. You forgot about the Suspension work. Had it sent to W-P/KTM for some factory works stuff. I have a friend who worked for ATK who helped set it up. Yep had the big motor and this would rip your hands off the bars when taking off and shifting. Was pushing 125HP at the rear wheel. Had to pull the frame and add some improvements to help coupe with the power. Here is just a few things...big motor, dual (carbon) brakes on the front,rearsets, bars, carbon gas tank, Marzocci wheels, new swingarm, Euro gearing, carbon everything,etc.. etc.. Just got tired of always working on it. It is the little things that kept breaking always makes you give up. Yes, I could have bought a Duck. A very fast Duck but the Buell was faster. But you should have seen my friends faces everytime the Buell would be passing them on the inside at 145 MPH..Price less.... Sometimes I wonder how I went from that to the Blast must be getting old I guess..Just waiting for H-D to build the Monster replacement with the VR-1000 engine or Buell to come up with some serious bike with power. | ||
| Blake |
Wish I knew when you were selling it. Can't believe you took only $5K!!! You telling me that with 125 RWHP, and all the weight reduction, your TL1000S would pull away from the S1???? | ||
| Xgecko |
Back to the Blast at hand, RD how are the Springs now that you've had a few days on them? And what oil exactly did you use? Thanks Tony | ||
| Rd350 |
Blake, I couldn't give the Buell away at the time. It was when BUell was going through all the recalls no one wanted it.. Also the TL1000s was not stock. Yosh Race high pipes and mapping. It was running around 140HP. The Buell would pull until about 80 when the TL would take it. The TL had the ram air and more rpms to work with and better gearing 6spd. As for springs Tony. They are working great. I am around 220pds and I used the middle rod. It is close to toping out on the roads with big bumps. The big spring in the kit is stiff. But with using the two springs together it works great. I think it would be better if we could get springs that are set to certain kgs but this is way better than stock. I would start out with the small rod and go up from there. You ride most of the time on the small spring. Push it and the big one takes over. I ran a zip tie around the forks to see where I was running in the suspension. I am using around 3/4 of the travel when ridding around town and hard up the canyons all of it. The bike feels better in turns and give you more control and when I hit a bump it doesn't feel like I broke something in the front end anymore. With my weight and ridding style I was always using the return spring in the forks. The only down side is you can hear the rods lock out sometimes when ridding. But that is it. With the stiffer springs the bike rides higher in the suspension travel so it is smoother. The compression and rebond do need some work. But at this time all you can really do is change the oil to slow down or speed up the compression or rebound. The stock oil is 10W from what someone told me. I felt that the rebond and compression was not taxing the fork with the new springs. You will like it. The instruction are easy to read and you get a great picture on what you need to do. It is very easy to do. I did notice that you can feel the backend more moving up and down. I will work on getting a new shock for the rear. Fix the front first and ride it then deside on the rear. Maybe you can get away with the stock shock I can't I am to heavy. I sometimes bottom out the rear shock. YOu an see on my bike were the fender has hit the underside.. | ||
| Dust_Storm |
That ones a mystery to me, Suzuki's in and of themselves do not have ram air. you can purchase an aftermarket kit that will add a pressurized airbox to the Suzi, but as a stock (much like the yamaha's), they are not ram air. Ram air in and of itself is an entirely new arguement. Originally designed by Kawasaki, ram air as a functional unit, is not truely a benefit until the vehical using ram air is above 110MPH. After you have crossed that point, the pressure system in the airbox is increased, leaning out the fuel mixture at the same time as providing a greater air to fuel ratio. Equals bigger bang.. A Buell, equiped with a comparible device should see nearly if not the same effect. As the Buell does not have a pressurized airbox to stabilize the on-comming air to the carbs, if may not see the same increase as an airbox would provide. The closest thing I can think of for a Buell would be the force intakes. 140HP on a Tl000? Sounds high for an exhaust switch (and Yosh are the worst of the bunch for Suzi's..) and mapping. Me thinks there is something else a foot here... [Ds] -BLASTS ROCK! | ||
| Blake |
Hmmm, MO's dyno test of the super twins...  RD, It looks like the TLS puts out about 106 RWHP in stock form. Will mapping and an exhaust really net you an additional 34 RWHP? Even the R version only put out 113 RWHP. I recall Eeeeek's TLR dynoed at 114 RWHP. But somehow you got 140 HP? But it was slower than a TLS??? Someone here is confused. I know I am. | ||
| Dust_Storm |
HA! I knew I wasn't as stupid as I thought I was!  Need to recalibrate the Seat-o-tha-pants-meter, me thinks.. Seriously though, be wary of where you get your dino's from. There was an instance (at the track) of a racer that said his 2002 Gixer 600 was pushing 175HP with a yosh pipe, header, and remapping. After I got done laughing, I told him to have it checked on the dyno for the race. The look on his face when it came back at 115HP pretty much said it all. Turns out his "dealership" was lieing to him and dyno'ed a much larger bike than his. Felt bad for the guy. [Ds] Why aren't we talking about Blasts again?? | ||
| Mapes |
What's the best thing to use to clean the Blast. The owners manual indicates that HD makes a product to clean it. Is that the best thing to use? | ||
| Mikej |
Depends on what parts of it you're cleaning. There's a spray-on product sold in Honda shops that both washes and waxes that does well on the plastic/painted parts. Some like the S100 stuff, but you need a good water supply from a hose to rinse it off properly. Some just hit the coin-op do-it-yourself car wash, and some say to never do that. Some use dish soap in a bucket and a sponge. Some just ride in the rain. For the plated/metal parts, almost everyone likes the "Mother's" line of products. The best? There is no "best", just variations on the theme.  | ||
| Rd350 |
Duststorm, The TLS does have ram air it was Suzuki's first bike to have it. And you guys are pulling info from newer models. The 97's (TLS) came with a different black box. They made more power around 128 stock but had problems with the mapping they changed this in 1998 because the glitches in the mapping and to help people with the tank slapping and did some inturnal work on the engine more bearings on the crank(less power) different gas tank and gave it a stearing stablizer... And yes the 97's really do tank slap you if you are not careful. The 97's were the fastest made. You can't remap the stock black box it needs to be changed. (was a recall to anyone who wanted it fixed) As for the Yosh high pipes they are good from 10 to 12 hp. I did do some work to the airbox and some work on the heads. Sorry for the confusion. The Buell was smoother and easier to ride. The TLS would scared the hell out of anyone who rode it. It came on to the power band so fast and violantly it was like a two stroke. It was not like a twin. Had two steps in the power band one at 8,500 and the other at 10,000 before shutting off at 13,000. I had a 97. Sold it because I thought I was in Love with a chick who hated motorcycles. It was me or the bikes she said. Tried it her way and it didn't work out. | ||
| Jim_M |
rd350, you must be referring to bhp... 97 TLS's put down around 114hp at the rubber.  | ||
| Jim_M |
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| Dust_Storm |
RD - Ahh, if it was BHP, your number sounds a little closer. I still have issues with the yosh pipe, but I've always had a thing against them, so take it for what it's worth. Motorcycle or girl? COME ON! That one should have been easy.. (lost a girlfriend that way, but I still have transportation! ) Mapes, I'm a sucker for S100, and it does work, you just need a firehose to get it off. J/k.. Another note of intrest, I switched over to the AMSOil 20/50, and I LIKE IT! Seems to have a lot less lag, but that's not the correct term. I'll be switching out the primamry oil here soon, looks like I stick with AMS for now. Got it cheap from Bullidan  , so here's a plug to him. [Ds] | ||
| Pgandeguy |
Hey.....Back to the blast. Well I have been doing some fooling with the timing on my bike, and I figured out that the stock plastic cover sucks. The crossroads cover seems ok, But Joker Machine makes a bunch of two hole timing covers that fit the sportsters and the Buells. The Joker cover I got is awesome, fit is great, but, on the blast it is turned about 60 degrees clockwise. It is cool, but I dont care for the chrome finish, I am going to bead blast it tomorow, to make it match the rest of the bare aluminum on the bike. I got the butterfly, but they make 6 or so styles for any taste. | ||
| Xgecko |
thanks for bringing the topic back to the Blast (hey Blake howz about you move that discussion over to the quick board). On the Subject of Timing covers I looked at the Joker ones and was planing on getting one but then I made an order from Crossroads for some other stuff and threw in the timing cover. I love it and it doesn't rattle like the OEM one does after 1000 miles (I replaced 2 before I just quit and accepted the noise). My bike has a lot of Crossroads stuff on it. | ||
| Snowsrfr18 |
Hi everyone! I had a little mishap last friday...  Some little kid who just got his license was coming down the road the opposite direction and decided to turn left in front of me (He saw me, and stopped on my side of the road). Needless to say I didn't have any choice but to dump the bike.  (It was that, or hit the guy right in the side of his car.) I didn't know where to post this, but could anyone help me get some new parts cheap, or some used parts in good condition. I need new blinkers for the right side, new saddle bags, a new right front peg, and a new brake pedal and lever. The bars are ok. If anyone can help please do! THANKS!!! | ||
| Dust_Storm |
Snow - Those parts are readily availible at your Buell dealer, and if they aren't, they should be! Get on your service dept to stock the drop items for your Blast. As far as pricing goes, all those components (with the exception of the saddle bags) are on the very low end, so to replace them with new ones could set you back around 40-50$ or so. Not too bad for a crash, eh? If your dealer doesn't stock those parts for your Blast, call up SportTwin out of Dallas(one of BWB's sponsers), those guys are awesome and carry just about everything. They'll fix you up quick. Tony - I keep expecting to see your bike with the full cafe conversion any day now! You should tell the guys at Crossroads to give you a discount. [Ds] | ||
| Xgecko |
The next step looks wise is gonna be DRASTIC........ Full fairing and clipons. I just have to decide which comes first, engine or looks. I've been getting more and more used to my Clubman bars and other than the inablity to go lock to lock I love them. nothing like tucking in ans buzzing down the road and 80. Hence the desire to switch to clipons. Things I've noticed since I've switched to my present setup. This bike corners like it's on rails. I have ducked under bike's I probably shouldn't have on more than one ocasion  I need better springs which means I really need to figure out how to lift my front end . Avon tires are nice but I still can't figure out how to get rid of the Chicken stripes...I've scraped a peg on both sides. | ||
| Blasterd |
Does anybody know if the buyback program is still effective? My local dealership says no, but I just wanted 2 be sure. Thinkin of tradin the blast in on the only m2 left.  | ||
| Sarodude |
The buyback program is effective if you bought your bike before the cutoff and if it's less than 1 year since that date and if you're buying a 2001 or 2002 model (the xb9r is 2003). My understanding of things from dealers is that they really didn't enjoy the buyback program too much. They'll try to talk their way out of it. Call Buell CS (414 343 8400?) and talk to 'em. Hint: DO NOT TELL THE DEALER ABOUT YOUR BLAST TADE IN. Go in like you're buying new to get a price. After you have a price, you'll remember that you forgot to mention the Blast. Then you'll see the true nature of the beast. That's just how it seems to be working out. I'm not so sure how a lawsuit hasn't popped up because someone isn't going along with a contractual agreement - and it may just be that the agreement would be tough for the consumer to have enforced. Anyway... -Saro | ||
| Rd350 |
Tony, If you would like to know. I changed out the front springs on the Blast while leaving the forks on. (I was lazy and didn't want to pull everything.) And I did it myself. It might be easiler for you to have someone help you hold the bike. Let me know if you need help I can walk you through it.... | ||
| Rd350 |
Snow, I have a set of the saddle bags for the Blast that are new if you want to buy them. I never use them.. Let me know.... | ||
| Blake |
Dude, Two words... Track Day! I thought you had rearsets? You might try stiffer springs and/or more preload. | ||
| Xgecko |
yes I have rearsets the center of the tire profile on the Avons seeme to be rather tall...then again maybe I'm just not leaning as much as I think I am. Springs will be entering into the picture after my next trip (Extra Per Diem money). A track day would indeed be a good idea...I have just been busy (work) or out of the country(also work) or entertaining inlaws (yuck that) every time my local track has had one for the last 6 months or somaybe july or august when officially I cannot travel. | ||
| Dust_Storm |
Tony - Scraping is just part of driving. A good friend with far more cajones than I have has to replace his rear foot pegs after every race (they are the solid Woodcraft pegs!) because they are ground to a harsh angle. OI! I'd rather replace my knee pucks, they're cheaper! Quote from him: "I just like the sparks." OIIIIIIII! Every road I've been on here in the continental US is straight. Even the realllllllllly curved ones, are straight in the end. You will never get rid of the chickenstripes in in the city. But on the same token, you won't wear out your tires on the edges unless you're on a track. Tracks are a great places to act like a fool and abuse your equipment. I fully recommend it. Really, I've had more fun with the Blast keeping my weight on the outside peg, entering corners slower than average, and grinding my knee pucks.. makes an aweful sound, but the grin factor has increased 10 fold. My buddys on the the 600's have been scowling, they can't understand why I enter a corner slow.... HEY! Their lose... Drove my GF's today just for fun, geeeeeze, did I catch crap.. the pegs were all scuffed... Like Ferris said, ride to scare your bad self. [Ds] | ||
| Blake |
A moto race club that allows rear pegs, solid ones no less? Suggest you take a moto tour through some of the roads listed in my profile, them check out the west coast. Deal's gap and roads like Lime Creek Road near Austin will flat out make you dizzy. |
