| Author | Message | ||
     Ltlboybuell |
 P.S. I finally got a digital picture of the bike and added it to my profile. This is what our favorite toy looks like with the factory decals removed and tank/tail stripes added. Though it doesn't come out in the picture, the center stripe is cobalt blue. | ||
| Blake |
LBB, A slight damp spot means you have a little weeping past/through a gasket. I cannot tell from your description if the weeping is at the clutch cover itself or at the primary cover to crankcase seam. If it's just the clutch cover, no worries. That entails a simple rubber seal. Easy to replace, easy to inspect. Get out your tools and give it a check. The cover may just need snugged up. Be careful, required torque is fairly light. Just make sure the fasteners are snug. If the leak is at the primary cover to crankcase seam, clean it off well and see if it continues to leak. Check the snugness of the primary cover fasteners. If it continues to leak, your dealer will/should replace the gasket for you under warranty. Piece of cake. Don't sweat the small stuff. | ||
| Dust_Storm |
Dan - Ahhhh yes, 494, I remember that stretch. Very wide open, especially if you're southbound. Jest keep yer eyes peeled for tha smokies, ya? As for the Vu, I never much got into it myself, but lordy, there were some truely beautiful women in that establishment. If you could call it an establishment... LBB - What Blake said.. boy he's a smart cookie.. [Ds] | ||
| Phillyblast |
Hey Aaron!!!  Just a quick question if you see this - I'm ordering the Nallin 515 kit from SportTwin today, and before they call me back to finalize the order I was wondering if you had a recommendation for cams? I'm leaning toward the .498 lift cams (B50) just to play conservative, since I'll still ride it to work and back every day in the city, but I was wondering, since you mentioned you'd seen a Blast built with the .530s, what they did to the mid-range? Is it completely biased toward the top end? Oh, and I lied - one more question - is it possible for you to guesstimate, from your experience, on jetting this thing with the CV carb once it's built? Just wondering what sizes I should have on hand so I don't run it extremely lean first thing out of the box - it'll get dynoed and set up properly once it's broken in, so I'm just looking for a ballpark range. thanks. | ||
| Aaron |
Well, in my book, even the B70's are a mild grind. Even the Firebolt cams are broader and taller than the B70's! So there's no question about which of the two I would pick. B70's will need some longer travel springs than what your heads have got, though. Are you getting the heads worked? I would do break-in with a 175 (assuming you're somewhere near sea level) then take it to a dyno. The 175 should be safe. I won't hazard a guess on the final number, that never works for me. Good luck on your project! AW | ||
| Bill00 |
Hey, I just got a new one piece metal rockerbox gasket. Does it go on dry? Will it realy keep oil from leaking? Also I was wondering if I could spread a thin film of hi-temp silicone on both sides then let it dry before I put it on. Would that cause more harm then good? | ||
| Blasterd |
 Hello everybody, First post but I have been reading for a while, Some of you are very knowledgeable. As for my bike, I have a few questions which exhaust sounds & preforms better? Can you really get away from the briggs and straton sound? How about rearsets and dropbars? I it worth it? I am 5'11" 225. (yes I feel like a giant on a mini-bike) I don`t want to do anything much to the motor yet since it is a 2002 ( bought in aug 2001) but it needs help. Otherwise, I like it. | ||
| Rd350 |
Blasterd, The first thing you should do is change out the bars to Buell S-1 (1996-1998) (Note: do not buy the 1998 S-1W they will not work). The S-1 bars will cost you about $49.00 and a left grip. This is one of the cheapest mods you can do. It will make the bike handle way better and give you more control. I think the rear sets are to much money. Around $500.00 plus you still have to get the bars that will work around $200.00. (CrossRoads makes them) As for exhaust it is a personal chose on what is better. The Vance and Hines is one of the loudest and gives the bike great mid.. I think it looks the best. It runs $200.00. To really make this bike run right you will have to put about $1200.00 into engine mods and about $800.00 into suspention and $300.00 for a new seat. I would just change the bars and ride the bike. Save your money in mods for a better bike down the road. I am in your same ball park 5'11" and 220 pds.. But it is your money. Spend it how you like... | ||
| Blasterd |
Thanx RD350 Is there a more comfortable seat for the blast? I have the regular one, & will it mess up the warranty if i put the s1 bars on? | ||
| Rd350 |
C:\My Jams  | ||
| Rd350 |
Got the front springs from Works today. It took me an hour to change out the springs. The new ones are a dual stage spring kit. One is small and the other is big like stock. They are set up to start off soft and go to hard. The soft small springs have a rod that goes down the middle. There are three settings. You can change out the stiffness. It goes from soft for easy riding to hard for (racing). You put the big spring in first than a washer than the small spring and the rod down the middle and last a washer. You do not need to set the preload. The kit is very close to stock. How the system is supose to work is you are riding most of the time on the small spring. The rod in the middle is supose to lock out the small spring about 1/3 of the way down the suspention travel and this is when the big spring takes over. (Note: I tried running just the big spring with the stock spacer but the springs are so stiff the suspention was toping out no matter what preload I was using. The big spring is the same size as the stock one but has twice the twist and twice the size in roundness in steel.(I am guessing the big spring is close to 1.0kg. and the stock is around .60kg). (Note: I tried to find out what the stock spring rate is but no one will tell me at the Buell factory and same goes for the Works springs.) The small spring is to take the place of the stock preload spacer. It is alot better than stock and worth the money. The stock suspention is not the greatest but changing the springs will help. The stock are just way to soft. I would recommend anyone who is over 160pds to buy this kit. And a must for anyone over 200pds. The front is vastly improved. IT is not superbike stuff but it works.. | ||
| Blake |
Rd350, Please define "better bike". | ||
| Xgecko |
yeah RD, since I have decided that me and the Blast are going to tour Japan and then some I take offence to that...but then I have rearsets, clubman bars, and a new corbin seat. Glad to hear the springs are so easy. I need to figure a way to lift the bike and then I may do it. What was the oil that you used?? And how good wre Works's directions? | ||
| Phillyblast |
Aaron, thanks for the response, I'll go with the B70s. I'm getting the Nallin stage 3 "blast head" as well so valve springs shouldn't be a problem.  I'm putting parts together for the air cleaner right now, looks like I'll run it dirt track style if it won't hit my knee too much. rd350, IMNSHO the Blast is a GREAT motorcycle for what it tries to do. it's a light weight, good handling, easy to ride bike. It's inexpensive to fix and maintain. It's been, by all accounts with exception of rocker box leaks (more an inconvenince than anything else) and Saro's dropped valve horror story, extremely reliable. It put a lot of riders on Buells that otherwise would have gone to the japanese manufacturers, or wouldn't have purchased a bike at all, since the Far East only seems to make crotch rockets and cruisers these days. Could the suspension be better? Yes, but you'd pay for it up front in the MSRP anyway, and to a lot of riders it doesn't make any difference, because they won't ride the bike hard enough to ever notice. It's also underpowered for many, but it'll cruise at 75 all day and for lot's of people that's all they want. It also has a TON more sitting in that motor if you want it, and 1200 bucks to add 66%+ more horsepower is CHEAP. And it already has great brakes. The seat just sucks, I have to agree on that. I took a belt sander and a meat slicer to mine until I had it where I wanted it, and I'm still not happy - going to completely refoam it soon. Anyway, sorry for the missive, and don't take this as a personal shot - just had to hear a bunch of sh** from my brother about "wasting my money" on the "lawnmower" - this from a guy that spent more on chrome for his HOG than I spent on the entire bike, but I guess it's true what they say, if it don't go chrome it  | ||
| Dansherman |
Another aleternative on handlebars (to Clubman, S1, Crossroads) is a generic pair of clip-ons. Wild Hair Accessories (whaccessories.com) sells a pair for $110. Ezblast mentioned them in the Ergonomics section a while ago. Haven't tried them myself, I opted for the $20 Clubman bars. They don't fit perfectly, but for $20 I can live with it. Maybe once I get a few more paychecks I'll order the clip-ons, unless I just keep sasving and get rearsets instead. Hmph. Way too many ways to spend my money. Like speeding tickets. Still raining in Mpls -- dan | ||
| Sarodude |
Speaking of Saro's Blast troubles.... (relax, it ain't bad) The FXD's charging system took some sort of a dive so we had to (no, we COULDN'T take a car, OK?) ride to San Diego on the little Blast. A 200lb goon and his SO just seems a bit much for the poor little bike... Anyway, The whole trip I was wishing for a less compliant suspension. Scraped the exhaust a few times in some turns. Well, When I got to SD I checked on this tinkling sound I was hearing. My first thought was that maybe I didn't tighten the Isolator bolts properly - though I was certain that I had. Turns out the Bub exhaust was not too thrilled about occasionally bearing some of the bike's load. The rear bracket broke around the weld such that the (un)silencer has a nice extra hole. After some Klugerey (btw, how do you spell kluge?) I strapped up the rear so it would get us home. The next morning I strapped the V&H I'd been meaning to put on anyway and noticed that the FRONT mount had cracked all over the weld. It would've let go soon. I forgot how good the bike sounds with the V&H. Much nicer power delivery, too. I really need to finalize some things with the carb and Dial-A-Jet. Man, I LOVE this little bike. Fun little toy... -Saro | ||
| Buellmeister |
Can somebody give me step-by-step instructions on how to change the oil on a Blast. Sort of an Idiot's guide to Oil change. | ||
| Mikej |
Buellmeister, 1. Get a couple of rags and a drain bucket handy. 2. Go for a ride to warm up the oil some. 3. There should be two tubes along the frame or footpeg apendage with plugs in the end. One drains the oil, the other drains any overflow from the airbox (I think). When you remove the plug from the oil tank drain the oil will begin to flow, so by now you should realize you should also have handy a funnel or larger tube of some sort to help direct the draining oil flow into the drain bucket without it dripping all over the bike. 4. Once it's drained, replace the plug, fill the oil tank with an appropriate amount of oil (generally around the middle between the high and low lines on the dipstick). 5. Change the oil filter, which is easier on the Blast than it is on other Buells due to the filters orientation. When replacing the filter, tighten the new filter per the recommendations in your service manual. 6. Go for a ride after checking for leaks as the bike warms up. 7. Re-check the oil level when you return. 8. Go put $50 into the cookie jar because that's about how much money you just saved by doing the work yourself. That's kind of how I do it. Get the service manual first though because there's all sorts of interesting stuff to read about in it. Plus it will correct any misleading info I just posted. We won't talk about changing the primary fluid yet.  | ||
| Sarodude |
Speaking of oil, what kind of oil habbits do your Blasts have? For some reason, my current Blast doesn't like much oil. Trying to keep it between the lines is fruitless. It likes to go down to a level where the oil needs to be warm and slightly aerated to show at the bottom of the dipstick. It'll stay there for a while, though. This seems exacerbated by the large amount of freeway type miles it's been seeing lately. 75-85 mph when open. Now that I think of it, I don't know how I have all those 80-ish mph miles in LA... Anyway, what gives? Is it the aeration (which I seem to have a lot of) causing the oil to take up more space in the frame and spooge out the vent? If so, should I be investigating some sort of de-aerating device? -Saro | ||
| Rd350 |
Not trying to hurt everyones feeling about the Blast. But if this is the only bike that you have ever owned than it is all you know. I was refering that if you are going to put $3000.00 into a Blast single you will be sorry down the road. You will never and I mean never get your money out of it. Sure it is a hobbie but it seems that everyone is trying to make a bike designed slow to go fast. It will never happen. It is a inexpensive single. You would be better off saving your money and when you are tired of the Blast sell it and buy a better bike. My rule of thumb is not more than $1000.00 in aftermarket things after years of pissing away money. I should know I have spent more money than I want to think on bikes in the last 12 years. If it gives you any idea I spend $15,000.00 in mods to the 1997 Buell S-1 I had and that is not counting the bike. In the end I got $5000.00 for it and my Suzuki TL1000s would kill the S-1 in everything. I have a suggestion for everyone who loves singles. If you really want a fast single that handles like nothing you have ever ridden. You should buy a KTM Duke II. (400 wet and 55HP rear wheel stock) Everyone keeps talking about how great the Firebolt is but run it up a canyon with the Duke and the Duke will smoke it everytime. I know everyone is going to trash me on this issue. That is fine that is what we are all here for learning!! So take it for what it is worth. If you are going to keep the Blast forever or 20 years than put the money into it. If you want a trick single that will turn heads everytime and out handle everything on the road and let you do the longest wheels you can only dream of buy the Duke. Save your money and buy a better bike that you will not grow out of in one year's time. And yes Buell has been working on a Super single Blast for a few years now. If Buell will put it into production this fall you will finally see a Super single Blast! | ||
| Dust_Storm |
MikeJ is right on.. just one correction, make sure you REMOVE THE FILTER WITH THE OIL REMOVED. If you take it off with the new oil in the rez, be prepared for a mess as all the new oil flows out of the gaping hole you opened with the removal of the filter. Have a splash guard ready under the filter also, as it will leak. I use the heavy weight paper flyers from the sunday paper, just make a goodly sized cone and your set. good luck [Ds] | ||
| Fssnoc2501 |
Rd350, Lets see I've been riding motorcycles for oh going on 37 years now. I've had my Blast for over your one year outgrown time limit, and yes am currently putting out quite afew bucks in modifications. So if I acheive my goal of possibly 2 records on the salt this year have I wasted my money? I think not, #1 memories are prceless, #2 if I wanted a foriegn built single I would have kept my XT550 and #3 I love this bike for what it is. I in my experience have never had a bike that I didn't modify to make it my own. And if there wasn't poeple like us who are willing to modify our bikes who would people come to answer their questions when they do? If you don't like it trade it and quit trashing the bike the rest of us love. OK Ray | ||
| Prof_Stack |
Ditto to Fssnoc's comments. My Blast is pretty much stock and I'm happy with it as is. After 33 years of riding, I no longer have the "need" to modify what I'm riding (although the WB exhaust does interest me  ). The bike is a hoot to ride, plain and single. | ||
| Dansherman |
One big problem with the KTM Duke. It's butt ass ugly. (link) I see RD350's point though. Spending $3000 on mods to a bike you payed $3500-$4000 for is a little silly. From a strictly financial/practical point of view. I've personnally spent way too much money on my bike, my car, my computer, my rock climbing wall... but hey, it's fun! -- dan | ||
| Xgecko |
Not sure about the sillyness making the Blast into more of the bike you want is sorta the nature of many if not all of the Harley/Buell products. I started out with a plan for my Blast I acheived it sooner than I thought I would (in part because I got to rebuild it from a crash) that accomplished I have a new plan one that will require time (spent off the bike as well as working on it) and money. Both are doable while I'me in Japan. The new plan is to actually make the conversion to clipons, find a full fairing (probably Airtech). Definatly Nallinize it, and do some suspension mods. I had wanted to re-do the rearend but the time I've spent with my Corbin seat has convinced me otherwise (is it un-natural to be in love with a seat???). So instead I'll paint the frame and swingarm black (and have the holes filled) when I tear the motor down for Nallinization. | ||
| Sarodude |
RD350 has some very logical points. Riding a motorcycle is, however, in and of itself highly illogical. We do what we do 'cause we love it. That's it. If you love spending $4000 on top of a $4000 bike, enjoy. I'm not looking at spending that much cash as much as time (which seems in even shorter supply). -Saro | ||
| Dust_Storm |
Rd350 & Everyone - really $3000 in mods is not that bad. On a bike that lists at $3500, the added mods bring it up to around $6500, which is less than what most 600cc sportbikes are selling for (Current pricing is around $7200). Now granted you won't get 600cc performance out of the Blast, but that's not what it was designed for. The Blast was designed as either an entry bike, or a "welcome back" bike. Also it's very weaknesses are what makes it so appealing to some people, eg its a thumper, low maintence, reasonably well looking, good handling, fuel effecient, etc.. Those people that have outgrown the bike have moved on to another bike of their choice, and that's good, if that's what they want. Some people like the concepts of what the Blast is designed around, and as such they are keeping there. I own both a racing superstock bike, and the Blast, and the Blast is a much nicer bike for what i originally purchased it for, commuting and a "welcome back" rider who'd rather have a stable bike to get back into the swing of things, rather than relearning everything on the race bike, which would have been a VERY costly experience in itself.. For those that think that $3000 in mods is a bit much, here's a taste of what's on the ZX6R: RaceTECH gold front shocks - 250$ X2 Penski Rear Shock - $750 Goodridge steel lines - $150 Sharkskinz bodywork - $750, painted - $100 Factory Advancer - $150 Hindle 4-1 Race exhaust - $1200 Port and polish - $500 Renthal Sprockets - $60 X 8 Dunlop 208GP Stars (slicks) - $250 X 2 Woodcraft Rearsets - $160 Woodcraft Clipons - $160 and that's just a taste! Comes to a grand total of: $5310, keeping in mind that the tires MUST be replaced after 2 races for serious competition, most people change them every race (I'm poor!), and all the misc hours you spend yourself fixing the darn thing (which seems to be acting funny if you don't look at it JUST right), not to mention misc expenses, and heaven forbid you actually fall on it, then be prepared to really kill your wallet and most of your earnings for the next 6 months. BTW, did I mention that some of the parts were USED??!! I couldn't imagine buying them new.. $3000 for a stable, performance Blast? For those that are truely interested in this motorcycle, that's obscenely cheap. You spent $15,000 on your S-1, which my 600 could pass you on a wheelie. Let's keep everything in context... Of course your watercooled, fuel injected, aluminum trussed, overhead cammed, 65deg V-Twin TL-1000 would have more more performace than your S-1. Why else do you see the SV650's in ProThunder. Comparing a watercooled motorcycle to an aircooled motorcycle is like comparing apples to oranges. They are vastly different, as are the people that ride them. Blasts are not for everyone, but they are a great place to start. The person that is riding his or her Blast has the ability to make the decision for themselves what is best for them, and their decision is what matters most. ... and while your at it, bring on that Duke, I'd love to make it feel stupid [Ds] - ProBUELL, ProBLAST | ||
| Blake |
"You will never and I mean never get your money out of it." How many motorcycle enthusiasts plan their retirement by investing in custom bike parts and go fast goodies? How many golf enthusiasts expect to get any of their money out of their golf equipment? You sure have a twisted view of the sport/hobby of motorcycling. I'll ask again. Please define "a better bike." Would that be a motorcycle that gets better gas mileage? One that's easier to maintain? One that handles around town better? One that's easier to customize and/or improve performance wise? One that's easier to ride? "Everyone keeps talking about how great the Firebolt is but run it up a canyon with the Duke and the Duke will smoke it everytime." Really? And you base that on... what? I don't believe it. You put $15K into an S1??? List please. That is astounding. And you are preaching to P3 owners who might want to put a few grand into their engine??? You only got $5K for your S1 including $15K of customization? Bummer. That is hard to take. "So take it for what it is worth." Trust us, we are. "And yes Buell has been working on a Super single Blast for a few years now." Cool! Where did you hear that? | ||
| Phillyblast |
RD350, trust me dude, if I thought this was logical you'd be asking me to stop holding and pass it already.  If the Blast is the only bike you've ever owned, by all means, enjoy it and try to ride whatever else is out there to get a sense of what you prefer. I've been riding since I was 5, when my older brother disconnected the throttle on his minibike, turned up the idle, slapped a helmet on me and turned me loose in the backyard. Best wheelie bike I ever had was a KZ420 (?) 2 stroke. I've owned or ridden numerous street bikes over my 32+ years, from a Honda Hawk to an FZ750. I like the Blast, it suits it's purpose for me as-is, I've just never been able to keep my hands off of anything I've owned. Let's be serious, a motorcycle is a depreciating asset no matter how you look at it. There are cheaper ways to build a super single, like finding an old Ascot, but I wanted to start with a fresh chassis. The KTM doesn't appeal to me, since I wanted something cafe-style. The MUz is water cooled. Am I ever going to "get my money back" out of the Blast? No effin' way  But 6-7 grand spent on a bike over several years to have something that is uniquely mine, that I built myself, and gives me more smiles per mile than any appliance-like rice rocket I've ever ridden? Buell Blast $4395 Nallin Kit and Cams - $1200 Crossroads bars and rearsets - $680 New Springs - $99 Big Cheesy Grin every time I ride - priceless | ||
| Rd350 |
I think everyone is missing the point. I was giving advise to help people learn from someone elses mistakes. And suggestions on a better single. Yes, the Blast is a fun bike. Yes, the Blast is a cheap bike to ride and maintain. Go ahead and put all the money you want into the Blast to try to make it better bike. I was trying in a nice way to tell you that Buell is working on a better single that is ready to go. It just depends on if they can get it into production in time for July.. Blake, I have a whole box of paperwork and receipts on what I did to the S-1. It was a great bike and a nightmare at the same time. As for my information on the Super Blast. Let's just say beer has gotten a many men into trouble.. |
