| Author | Message | ||
     Reepicheep |
Second opinions anyone? Rocket? Hootowl? From your resistance measurements, it sounds like the stator is toast. The resistance between each of those pins in the socket (on the wire going to the stator) and ground, should be infinity. You took these two (.9 ohm) measurements on the stator side of the connection, right? (not the voltage regulator side). Not sure how it is managing to get 52 volts AC out of itself though. That sounds like a good stator. I have no idea how a shorted stator can produce 52 volts AC? Had you not seen the 52 volts from the stator, it would have been a slam dunk diagnosis... | ||
| Buellkat |
Thanks for all the help Reep, maybe I should check my manual for the voltage regulator troubleshooting? Another board has a post about their battery wasnt holding a charge and it was the voltage regulator. Do they just *BAM* go out like that?? Work fine, then not work at all?? | ||
| Reepicheep |
If you indeed got .9 ohms between either of the two pins and ground... on the wire going to the stator... and you have double checked it, your stator more than likely is toast. As I think about it, I can imagine a stator failure scenario that would explain the contradictory readings (though it is pretty darn unlikely). Both voltage regulator and stator failures would likely be sudden and complete (voltage regulator even more so then stator). The manual is both more correct and more complete then I will be, but I found it's procedures awkward and complicated. edited by reepicheep on June 22, 2004 | ||
| Buellkat |
I have triple checked at a minimum all the ohms/volts/ac readings on the pins, sockets and running motor. After perusing the manual, it would seem it was the stator. I started on the primary cover removal, after I see the step about removing the entire clutch, chain, etc. as a "Unit" per manual, I stop and say to myself, well huh, I think the voltage regulator would be a much better change out then the stator considering ease of removal. Peruse the manual again, it states if I have a ac reading of 38-52 with rpm then it is faulty voltage regulator. I shrug and put the primary cover back on partially to make sure I remember and have all the parts in place. Remove the voltage regulator and will go that route and hope that this will solve the problem. We shall see.....thks again Reep and I will post when all is back together. Kat | ||
| Reepicheep |
Keep the old voltage regulator handy, don't throw it away  Pulling the rotor / chain / clutch unit is not that bad. Takes a big honking breaker bar on two big honking sockets, and a chunk of aluminum (though an old towel will do in a pinch) to keep things from turning, and a lot of effort, but they are easy to pull. Good air tools make it easier, but are not necessary. Keep us up to date! And good luck! | ||
| Demiurge |
i have the same prob too. I have a 2001. The stator is the only thing i could find to be the problem. | ||
| Buellkat |
I am on the 4th week gone by awaiting the voltage regulator, I am completely NOT able to ride at all. I called Chicago Harley after the first 2 wks went by and no delivery of the part. Now it is ANOTHER 2 wks because the bonehead NEVER put IN the order!! I am begining to think it is.........the stator dammit. Thanks for your post Demiurge. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Kat... I think it is your stator as well. Repeat both the stator resistance test and the AC voltage tests. They don't make sense together. If you are really getting .9 ohms between the wires going to the stator and ground, you have a blown stator. No idea how it could then generate 52 volts AC right out of the stator. Also, many dealers won't let you return electrical parts. | ||
| Buellkat |
Thanks Reep, I am thinking the same thing, because I have not received it (the voltage regulator) or if I ever do I will tell them keep it and just credit it to the stator I will have to order. | ||
| Vic |
Buellkat, my blast just begun showing the same symptoms. Was the stator the problem? | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
OK, i guess i have a new problem. It appears as if my bikes engine is no longer grounded to the battery (the engine wont start, but if i run a jumper cable from Neg. post on battery to, say a bolt on the engine it will start right up). Where exactly does the ground wire connect to the engine? I have tried following the wires and it looks like they run into the transmission, so i am doubtfull that is them. Aslo, can i just make a work-around with some new wiring, and if so, where should i connect it? Anyone who could answer my questions would be my hero. (Message edited by mutt2jeff on November 09, 2004) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
At the front Isolator mount.Frame to engine ground. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Neg cable on battery goes straight to the frame, (about 6" . | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
Ok, that makes a lot of sence now that i think about it. But i am having trouble figuring out how that steel cable runs. From the head bolt to the frame? (the head bolt that shoots throught the left side of the isolator mount) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Bolt through the isolator "do not remove" head bracket to the bolt that holds the isolator assembly to the frame. However any frame to engine ground strap would be sufficient. | ||
| Ninjabob |
so... I dropped my bike... while trying to put the kickstand down /blush. I broke the front left blinker and so Ive removed both front blinkers. Ive ordered the parts but ive noticed here recently the two rear blinkers have stopped working all together. they were working just fine alone. I think maybe the contacts for the blinker may have made contact while riding down the road. what to do ? I cant read the electrical diagrams in the service manual ! | ||
| Ezblast |
Black is negative - remember that! - your flasher could be toast from overload - you can replace with an automotive - just ziptie to harness, or your tail light could have unpluged from the fall - check - did a simular drop on my Black bike once - ya it will make ya turn red - funny that no speed drop caused the worst damage of all my falls - which where numerous - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Flashers are cheap. Just dont stress yourself trying to fix it until you have the front turn signals installed.Many turn signal systems wont work if a bulb is out or gone (even if it did for a while). You can also buy a turn signal flasher that will convert your blinkers to running lights and make your turn signals self cancelling! ($100) | ||
| Ninjabob |
none of the bulbs are broken, so I hooked the two forward blinker bulbs back up, still nothing. could I have blown a fuse or burnt something out ?all the bulbs are fine. when I go to use the blinker I hear a single click. then another single click when I go to terminate. this noise originates from the bottom of the seat. | ||
| Ezblast |
Check fuse - if fuse ok - then replace flasher. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ninjabob |
what/where is flasher. | ||
| Ezblast |
Under your seat - there is a picture in the manual - you could replace w/ a universal auto type - just ziptie to the harness so it doesn't go anywhere - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Vic |
Ok, first day of good weather in Chicago and my bike wont start. When I turn the key to the ON position the oil and neutral indicator lamps are on but the LCD is blank. There's also a continuous buzzing sound coming from the system relay. I try to start the engine and nothing happens. The bike is still under warranty but if it has an easy fix I'd rather do it myself and save the time. Any clues my fellow blasters? Thanks. | ||
| Ezblast |
Sorry didn't answer sooner, check your battery. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Vic |
Thanks EZ. I kept the battery with a battery tender charger during the winter. I checked the open circuit voltage about 30 min. before putting it back in the bike and the reading was 13.1V. I didn't rechecked it until today, 12.3V. I guess I should charge it and recheck it after it has set, as the manual describes, right? | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - check connections also, then check for spark. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Vic |
The battery wasn't holding the charge. Replaced it today and I'm ready to ride. The only problem is that it is 25 F outside.  Thanks for your help EZ. | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
Had another problem today. I started up the bike to move it from the middle of the garage to the spot where it normaly sits. After turning around in the driveway, i brought it back in and then all the power died. No headlights, no speedo, no nothin. All the fuses seem fine, and the battery and connections are fine. Any ideas? I have been riding around all day without a hint of trouble till now. | ||
| Mutt2jeff |
Well, i have go through all the wiring, and I cannot find anything that is disconnected or wires that are worn through. I guess something blew up. | ||
| Ezblast |
Was the kick stand down - perhaps a short in the kick stand switch? GT - JBOTDS! EZ |
