| Author | Message | ||
     Ezblast |
yes GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Swampy |
Darthane, I am heading to the UP tomorrow. I will probably be back on Thursday. If you are still unsure about anything let me know and maybe we can get together and ride a little this weekend and do a little knuckle busting on the bikes? | ||
| Darthane |
Swampy, I'm sure I can handle it, but that doesn't mean you'd ever be unwelcome at my place! I got the fluids changed in the Thumper and adjusted the primary per the manual, no change that I can tell. The shifting didn't seem all that bad to me until I got back on my Firebolt again for the first time in almost 10 months, then it seemed HORRIBLY sloppy. Once I've got the time I'll definitely be opening the primary and checking out that screw that seems to cause so many problems (mine is an '01 as well). Gotta hand it to the little guy, he's always started right up after getting no more special treatment than being parked in the garage for months at a time...although immediately after adjusting the chain he was a little unhappy, but smoothed out quickly enough. I think the new tension coupled with old oil and sitting for three months just needed to work the kinks out. | ||
| Rmorin128 |
I've been chasing this annoying rattling noise that the bike has made for around 1600 miles. I've adjusted the primary chain I don't know how many times, recently adjusted the clutch & cable, and just did a static timing adjustment but the noise remains. It's sounds like it comes mostly from the left side of the bike. Is there anything besides the primary chain that could make that kind of noise or something else that would let the primary chain slop around and make noise? Any suggestions? | ||
| Swampy |
Could you be dealing with the shift drum/detent arm retaining screw that is loose? | ||
| Rmorin128 |
Dunno... I'm new to being a backyard bike mechanic. Sounds similar to a post that you put in here about a yr ago about a flickering neutral light. Am I on the right track here? It looks like major surgery to get there, would you recommend this to someone with beginner to maybe intermediate skill? I just don't want to get in over my head. Thanks, Russ | ||
| Ezblast |
A primary Gasket, shift seal, torque wrench, large deep sockets, and a cross bar to hold the gears in place - this is not a rush job type of project - do your homework, read the Primary KV at the regular KV as well as the hints here, and you should be fine - I'm in the same shoes, and I was able to get in and out without causing any harm, you should be fine - just take your time to make sure your doing the right thing. If I can do it - you can also - if you have any questions - you have us here to help how we can, and if you need a helping voice - send me an Email and I'll send you a phone number - Good Luck - do the homework and you should be fine! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Swampy |
Don't forget to use some Brake Clean on the detent bolt to clean the oil off it and then put some locktite on it. Its not that bad of a job to do yourself, and you know it was done right. | ||
| Darthane |
What size 'large' sockets, and what do you use for a cross bar? I wanna make sure I've got everything before I open it up - don't feel like running to Sear's midway through (although buying new tools is always fun!) | ||
| Ezblast |
1 1/8 deep & 1 3/16 deep - check the links I posted above for bar dimensions - good luck! - let us know the results! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
So I just did the adjustment, wanted to take it out another flats after I took it out, and when I loosened the adjuster, after a little turn it came completely loose. I tightened it back up and it was really hard, and I had the torque wrench at 2 ft/lb. then it got to about how it was when I started, I looked down and the nut the adjuster bolt screws into is just spinning...is this just me or what? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Not quite sure exactly what you mean, but that nut is a lock nut, and what I read is that you didnt loosen the locknut first. IE: the adjuster bolt is threaded into the case and the nut is just a locknut to keep the adjuster bolt from coming loose.(If thats not what you meant, I misunderstood what you wrote-sorry). PS How many ft lbs does that torque wrench go to? | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
The torque goes from 0-60 I think, I figured 24 in/lb = 2 ft/lb. I didn't know there was a lock nut. So I loosen the lock nut, adjust the primary to where it should be, then tighten the lock nut back down? I didn't read anything about a lock nut so that was confusing.... | ||
| Rockbiter1 |
Note to self: on a 0 to 60 ft lbs torque wrench, you should avoid using the wrench in the bottom 20%, the wrenches tend to be less accurate in that section. Obviously, its your bike, do what you want, but if you use a wrench with a range closer to your target torque, it will tend to be more accurate, and therefore mo-betta. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Bmhd: That would be correct. Consider getting an inch/lb torque wrench. | ||
| Ezblast  |
Concur - I have collected a torque wrench for every occassion - remember its your ars on the bike - always try to keep it safe and use the proper tool when at all possible to do so, and always follow spec if possible. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
Okay, so when I started I had the adjuster bolt screwed almost all the way into the case. I adjusted it from spec, then 8 flats out. The bike didn't start. So I went another 4 out and it started but idled horribly. Went a few more out and it sounded okay. I took it out and it seemed like it needed tightened a bit more. When I went to tighten it the bolt wouldn't budge. That seemed odd, but it had been tighter than that before. I tried again and after a little effort it moved freely again. The engine was idling so I was listening for the idle to drop, but it didn't. I looked down and the bolt is just spinning with the lock. I went to tighten the lock nut, and right as it starts to snug up, as soon as I go to tighten all the way, it slips out again....it feels like I might have stripped something. At first I was scared it was the case, but I don't think the locknut would slip if it was the case. | ||
| Ezblast |
Lock nuts spec is german - goodntite - shouldn't move. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
So I backed the bolt out, and there was metal in the threads. I stripped the damn case when I was tightening it, but how that happened I have no idea. Could I just tap it and rethread it and put a bigger bolt in? The bike isn't moving so I'm in a cage...bah. Anybody have any suggestions? Preferably something I can do on my own, it would suck to have to take it somewhere and have them do it. Plus it would also be expensive. | ||
| Swampy  |
Check for a price on the primary cover, I think they are inexpensive, also replace the gasket with the new metal one. Check your chain tensioner, you may have damaged it when you ran the adjusting bolt in all the way. | ||
| Ezblast |
I myself would take the primary cover off, get a new primary gasket and shaft seal, and see about getting a leak proof helicoil and setting it up with the same size thread - thats if its actually stripped. Its hard for me to believe you actually stripped it, but s**t happens - lol taps and such are not cheap either - neither is helicoil stuff, but its all still cheaper than a new primary cover is. Good luck! GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Bmhd: Unfortunately stripping is the byproduct of an inaccurate torque wrench. Sounds stripped, Heli coil should work if sealed properly. You could use a slightly larger bolt and nut (next size up, either metric or standard) just be sure you modify the end of the bolt that touches rubbing block to match original.Checking chain tensioner is a good idea also. HOWEVER: Loctite makes thread repair kits. If you follow the instructions carefully you may be able to repair the threads without any disassembly or tapping. You will just have to be more careful when doing chain adjustments in the future. | ||
| Jprovo  |
Try a time-sert or a keen-sert they are often used for sparkplug hole repairs, and are liquid tight. http://www.timesert.com/index.html I'd remove the cover and take it to a local machine shop unless you have the right equipment. Then again the fix might cost more than a new primary cover, so check the dealer or Ebay first. James | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
a new primary cover and gasket is 120 from the H-D dealer here. I'm gonna pull it all tomorrow and see fi the primary really is stripped, and make sure the internal stuff is okay while I'm in there. Anybody ever thought...6 speed blast? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Oh we've thought about it. Blast engine case has no trap door for the tranny, so that means splitting the cases + I believe the 6 speed is about $2500?! | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah - your in there that far for a 6 speed - you might as well lighten the flywheel a bit and replace your thrust bearings as well with the new style - same as the XB, and may be add a piston oiler as well - ala XB. Pricey, but I'm sure someone will do it sooner or later - all good things in time! - Your primary side however, is the other side of all that and therefore I don't see you going there just yet - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
Okay so I took the foot peg assembly off and the shift lever, but not where the shift lever bolts too, and all the hex bolts. The primary cover will not come off for anything. I don't want to force it, since that's what put me here in the first place. The clutch cover is still on, and the clutch cable is still in place. ALL the nuts are out, so I don't know what's up, the case is pretty well stuck. Should I just pry it off or is there something it may be hung up on? | ||
| Ezblast |
Clutch cover must come off as well - lol - try using the on line manual for procedure - very usefull - a link to it can be found further down the Blast KV list. GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Burnmyheartdown |
THe blast KV list? I tried downloading it off one of the yahoo groups sites, but the drivetrain section doesn't work right... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
The shift lever sleeve must come off. There is a recessed bolt in the middle of the cover also. The manual (many for sale on ebay) will list a torque sequence for the bolts-check the # of bolts it lists to how many you have taken out. Have you put slack in the clutch cable? Use a rubber or plastic mallet to loosen the cover, prying will surely break it! |
