| Author | Message | ||
     Dcb |
I wish I had a test track. I guy could do well if he could test over and over during the week. It may be time to put plates back on it. lol R/DCB | ||
| Dcb |
Okay I got into the 7.90's w/91MPH last night, Working on the 60 foot. still have a ways to go Its calling for rain the next couple days So I will change out the cams and try it again next week. DCB | ||
| Fast1075 |
Is it spinning the tire??? is it still bogging??? | ||
| Dcb |
Spins hard on the start then it fills like I just cut the fuel and it bites hard and boggs me down. Just before the 60' thats whats killing me. It like i have to launch twice in the first 60' I guest I will have to practice some more clutch control instead of dumping it. ? R/DCB | ||
| Bott |
Far from expert here, but it sounds like the rear is squatting-then 'jacking up' with too slow of rebound. Of course if you are running a strut---I am way off base. Just seems like with bars down and front wheel down, the rear is getting up high and causing spin till it settles???? | ||
| Mike1125r |
Dcb are you running a strut or shock? | ||
| Dcb |
Strut, Bars wheels are just about 1 1/4-1/2 Of the ground. I think I need to work the clutch a little slow until the bike is running then stage two kicks in at a later point. I think what may be happening is when I drop it the rev limit kicks off and starts the spin, and if a move to slow it is bogging before the second stage kicks in? This will be hard for me to work when I only get a few laps night at the local track . R/DCB | ||
| Bott |
hear ya there Dcb....wait all week for 3 to 4 runs on Wednesday night T&Ts. Luckily I got in on a track rental June 11th and only 60 vehicles were all in--so, I should be able to get LOTS of passes. Sucks when you make adjustments but barely get seat time to try things out. | ||
| Mike1125r |
Dcb when I was racing with the stock wheelbase I decided to put a solid strut in place of the shock. The strut lowered my bike 3".My engine bogged on the launch and lost 60' time and lost 2 tenths off my 1/4 mile.I went back to the stock shock and got my 60' times back and better 1/4 mile. I run now a very expensive drag shock. I would recemmond lowering and revalveing your stock shock for drag racing. | ||
| Bott |
Mike, what were you running at stock wheelbase? 60's,et,trap speed? I need goals,other than getting my 60s below 2! Only have 3 passes with front strapped so I'm still not sure how much harder I can launch than I was before strapping. | ||
| Dcb |
Bott and Mike, I was running low 1:80 on 60' Thats what got me so confused. I lost it, Not sure what the deal is. Maybe with some concentrated Clutch work I can get it back this wednesday. | ||
| Cronan128 |
try raising your bars a little bit more and upping your launch.. i ran into the same exact problem before and this seemed to fix it | ||
| Dcb |
not sure what will happen with the new cams either. I will give it a go, tomorrow night and let ya know. DCB | ||
| Xoptimizedrsx |
sent you that 575 cam timing delbert. DID you get they Palm in the mail to me so I can build it a special cable so you can data log each run. I'll also once ready set your ecm to accept the Wideband data from the LC1 to feed it straight to the ecm. then you have a wide band ECM. running directly to it. we also need to add the map sensor to your bike. This helps altitude and pressure changes to keep fueling spot on. we can start another post somewhere else on this for drag racing. We can do it in emails and on the phone like always. I have a couple parts i need to build for permanently mounting the Palms to the bike. the other is a pocket in the air box cover. an alum insert and rivet it to the cover. You need access to the buttons. and a way to keep it charged while the bike is off. back to wheel spinnnnnn. less air. this year since i cant race as per the lady of the house. I'm taking the bike apart. i will refinish the parts by shaving a little her and there to make it lighter. no back to wheel spinnnnnnn... | ||
| Dcb |
Got the map and installed it. the cams are in and I Finaled the bars and tire pressure, I'm hoping for improvement in the right direction tomorrow night. I did not send the Plam yet. I forgot we had a friends wedding to attend two in a row has me worn out, I will get it this week. | ||
| Fast1075 |
I don't know if (unnamed manufacturer) still makes "air clutch" kits...in use, a small air cylinder is attached to the clutch lever...an air solenoid with adjustable exhaust is used to operate the device. You pull in the ever...push a button and hold it...release the lever....when you release the button, the clutch is released...the adjustable exhaust on the valve limits THE SPEED of clutch engagement....not nearly as good as a slider or lockup...but better than throwing the lever and spinning or bogging...if I can't find a picture to post, I will do a crude drawing...it is simple and the parts are readily available. | ||
| Bott |
Fast, off topic sort of, but don't I recall seeing a solenoid/valve setup for hydraulic clutches that works something like a slider? I would love to try something like that.... | ||
| Bott |
http://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/cl02.asp found it. Any experience with any of these, Fast? | ||
| Fast1075 |
Bott..back in the old days I did have the air clutch on a KZ650...it had a similar problem as dcb in that it would spin or bog due to the high ratio first gear and the limited amount of torque...it did work, with careful tuning. The main thing to remember is since it is air operated, the QUANTITY of air in the cylinder changes with variations in pressure. You need to run a GOOD pressure regulator to assure you have the exact same air pressure in the cylinder time after time...I used a Co2 cylinder and a NOS fixed 90# pressure regulator... A Slider is a completely different animal...it is a centrifugal clutch...gas-n-go...it is infinitely adjustable and is the absolute schizitz for E.T. racing. | ||
| Bott |
yea, I'm sticking with 54 inches(for now) but it seems like consistency is never gonna happen at this length. Basically either skys up, or I run a 2.5 60  A nice way to regulate flow with the hydraulic would be the cats meow for a hobby racer like me, with very limited seat time and just running Wednesday night T&Ts | ||
| Fast1075 |
You can buy all of the parts for that air clutch and make one yourself for way less money. | ||
| Bott |
http://www.mpsracing.com/products/MPS/cl03.asp This is what i was remembering. Seems like it would be a good solution for my situation-control flow rate of fluid and get dialed to 100% consistant 60s. Any thoughts? (sorry DCB bout the hijack--) | ||
| Fast1075 |
The guy that owns and runs that place is Dan Ruud...give him a call and talk to him about it. He invented a lot of the tricks and trick pieces for E.T. racing. Nice guy and the last time I saw him at a race, he was still stone deadly. | ||
| Dcb |
Okay I just got back, Wow ya'll have been busy, I like the air release ideal, as i work all night (4 passes for all thats worth. Anyway I got the 60' to low 1:90 still running 7:90-8:00's I did have a harley racer there tonight walking me throu the clutch control when I did it right very little spin and less bogg 1:90 if but the bad launch and I would spin then fall on my face. I believe with practice on the clutch I will get lower. Now a second problem the harley guy said he heard was the bike mid track really sound stronger and visually looked stronger. he said it was like it was dragging slow through 1st and part of 2nd gear. then the sound from track side changed. can someone give me a good number to a dyno tuner. closest to louisville the better but at this point I dont care it needs to be done. DCB | ||
| Xoptimizedrsx |
with O2 readings on both pipes you will get it golden... its simple on the dyno. you may have to do the changes for them. can you place rpm and tps position this is happening at? if its the same rpm but suddenly come alive in different gears thats puzzling>>> we have sent a file back and fourth a few times. we need to address fuel now. can you email me the whole file you have in the bike now. I want to see what its setting at right now. also include the tps and rpm zone its lagging. you may be fighting those pipes.. Just a thought. do you have the pipeworks program . with it you can see if the pipes match the engine. you input all factors of the engine and it tells you the pipe lengths to use. and diamater. you can even tailor it to rpm areas you want it to function within. including changing valve sizes to see what it will do Hp wise. good job on scoring help on wheel spinn... mike | ||
| Dcb |
Mike I sent pipe info and current map to you email. Thanks | ||
| Xoptimizedrsx |
returned new file already... saw a flaw. fixed it... you will have more spin now..HA.....lol | ||
| Dcb |
Cool I will load it tomorrow If you please go back and attach the file...LOL That extra spin will be even funner to work with, Thanks again, I will scan the formula tomorrow And send it to you tomorrow afternoon. Thanks again. | ||
| Dcb |
Mike, what you found made a huge difference The map was a great. We got rained out after two passes, but I feel as I get use to the launch with this map a little more I will drop another 10th or two I believe 1/8 mile 1.83 60' 93.15 MPH 7.62 The guys at the track where surprised in the change as much as I was. Mike I am sending the Pipe info on next home email. | ||
| Xoptimizedrsx |
your welcome Delbert... Its a shame I am not at the bike setting it exactly perfect. But with the Palm you will send to me logs and I set it up for you. we can get it spot on. Then from there you just do a few practice passes logging the data. you will look at that data and make adjustments according to weather and baro. This keeps it correct for each weekend. I'll teach you what to look at and how to see what you need. Keep the same fuel type dont switch all around. It makes a mess of things in race settings. I run oxygenated fuel in my race bike but its tuned to the bike and fuel and the rider. so my map in a different bike built exactly like mine would run terrible. Not 100% on the dyno. That just gets you close most of the time. Unless the dyno guy has no clue to how you need the load set on the dyno. Then its worse than you started. |
