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Buell Forum » Buell RACING & More » Racing - Drag Racing » Archive through October 05, 2010 » Lightning the bike. dragrace home made parts « Previous Next »

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Xoptimizedrsx
Posted on Tuesday, May 25, 2010 - 06:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

what all has everyone done to get weight off the bike?

I am taking mine apart since the lady here says no racing till i finish school again.

I'll be 40 years old when I finish this time arghhhh. But, the scenery is nice at school.

any way what all can we all seem to figure out with out spending money. lets all put our heads together on this. It will be a win win for everyone. note some mods will take tools some dont have but thats ok to post.


also post tricks and home made drag parts. saving a buck is never a bad thing when it comes to racing...



Mike
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 02:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Without spending anything I can't think of much other than the obvious extraeous street bike stuff.

The big savings after that..

Muffler

Wheels (magnesium from Erik Buell Racing)

Battery (Li ion from Erik Buell Racing)

Starter (remove).

Generator (stator and rotor)

Ditch the rear brake system entirely.

Find 4-pot calipers to fit front brake and lighten rotor.

Al and Ti fasteners

CF bodywork

Al clipons and lightened top triple clamp.
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Fast1075
Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 07:26 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thats a tuff one Mike..XB's are light to begin with..the seat is light, the plastics are light...maybe skin out the wiring harness and remove the non functional wire after you have removed all the lighting...you might save some weight with slicks instead of street tires..and the lower rotating mass will improve performance.

You can make your own wheelie bars using .057 chromoly tubing...you need at least a MIG welder though...and a small lathe to make the bungs and mount spools.

Free power is to be had with close attention to details...if it is going to be a dragrace only bike...turn the fork sliders to reduce weight...thin the disc..maybe that could be done with a Blanchard grinder??? Completely remove the air box and run a velocity stack and cover only?? Ditch the rear shock and build a strut...toss the BAS...gut the headlights and make some covers with "headlight" decals...grind off the mirror mount bosses...swiss cheese the rear rotor (you need a rear brake to pass tech).

(Message edited by fast1075 on May 26, 2010)
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Bott
Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 08:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

another free one- fuel.
At 6.2 lbs. a gallon, you only need enough in there for your run,if this is a racebike only...
Hard to be consistent if you have 20 lb variances in fuel weight
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99buellx1
Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 12:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

If race only, chop the rear subframe.
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Xoptimizedrsx
Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 - 11:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

the bike starts coming apart very soon to go on a diet. shame I dont have a scale to get a weight before to after locally.

wheelie bars I have Pingle. sliders are all alum. strap and strut. lowered to 2.25 inches with me on it. full body kit flexy glass as light as carbon. pics are in wheel spinn post of the bike. its black body and white frame. the frame was shaved already before repainting. I took 1/2 lbs off the frame already (after paint).

I'll shave parts drill holes. read the rule book... (important step) lol

I dont want to put myself in a class I can never compete in. Thats always dead last.Plus I have a year to finish the rebuild. school is first says the lady of the house. No racing till I graduate.

I already gutted 1 lbs out of the harness. next is a tail sub frame chop.
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Hybridmomentspass
Posted on Thursday, May 27, 2010 - 12:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DONT remove rear brake, if you do you'll be very upset when you get to the track and they say you cant run.
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Xoptimizedrsx
Posted on Thursday, May 27, 2010 - 08:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake, I dont want a DQ I need that brake.

to free brake drag use a spring on the cross lock pin. its just big enough to push apart the pads slightly. but not so long you dont have breaks when you go to use them.

Also take the stock wheel bearings and toss the grease in them. re-grease with a lighter high molly compound. then put the seals back in. after a few rolls the tires spin more freely. less drag is always a good thing.

next put clear tape on the body lines. it corrects for turbulence. Old Indy car trick. Grandpa use to use Heavy packing tape... on the buell tape the windshield area.

on gear wear what you feel safe in. get as light as possible and het a high hump upper for aerodynamics. Its proven in the tunnel and on 125 bikes. the suit design will effect speed difference.

If its over built drill it and shave it thinner. drilling holes increases surface area. more surface area more strength and less weight. do with caution.
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