We support a guy in the UK who has been drag racing his almost stock 1125R all year and has just won the Twins series that he races in. His times have been in the very low 10 second bracket over the 1/4 mile I believe. Next time I speak to him I'll get the correct figures for you.
We are still at 10.88 @ 132 MPH in AFM road race trim using a stock belt and gearing. Our guy Garrett Kunkel has won the Infineon Wed Night Drags three weeks in a row, the last two on his AFM Race Only 08 Buell 1125.
Now if I can only get him to only drag the 90 cubic inch M-2 and let me keep the 1125 prepped for road racing I would be happy, but "Customers" they know what they want and after all we are proud. Terry - JT&S Performance
would it be a good idea to post your best et and mph up on this section any buell street or strip. mine is a street 1125r stock wheel base race ecm map by twinmotorcycles ,sarron pipe,KnN,lowered and strapped .10.04 et@140.36mph please post yours and up date when you go quicker and no fibbing
threaded rod through spindle make strap with two hooks tread over top yokes hook over rod use washers lock nuts .fitted steering damper had bad tank slaper .just got back from strip with a 10.02 ticket
Stock CA bike, no strap, 230# or so in gear,a best run of 12.29 at 113mph last week, with a couple 12.50 and a 12.33 at 110.
Pulled inner airbox cover and ran two 11.87's at 117+mph, and a 11.98 hitting the revlimiter in 2nd +3rd(oops) a 12.1 getting off throttle and a 12.2 at 117 with a bad shift, due to improper body positioning for shifting.
WHat can I say, it's a learning experience.
THat's a BIG improvement for only pulling the inner airbox cover, all else same.
Can you say NOISE EMMISSIONS!!!
I don't know what that stupid ram-air is good for, except keeping it quiet, atleast in real world situations.
I suppose it MIGHT help at over 120 or 140, but that don't do me a darn bit of good!
I thought that stupid snorkel was WAY TOO SMALL the first time I laid eyes on it!
Bigblock, I've heard both pros and cons for inner airbox removal. Your results are something I am going to test on my bike. I'm hoping to make some passes next wednesday on a test and tune night. This will be my first time down the strip on a bike. I know I wont be launching at all for a while, just easing through the 1-2 shift till I get some good feel.My best hope is to have a small crowd and get several runs in, but my daughter's boyfriend runs a car on T&T nights, and says 3 runs is a lucky night. Sounds like I should be happy with mid to low 12's as a complete newbie. About 175 in full gear,09, D&D tuned stock ecm. Sound about right-mid 12's?
I would think you can do better, my bike is bone stock.
May I give a launch suggestion? After 2 nights and a handful of passes, I found it best to start at the line with your shifting foot already in place, toe under the shifter ready to go before you launch. I found also, I just stuck my right foot out behind, that's it.
Any foot lifting or motion that you do, is liable to cause the front to lift. Hang over the front, and don't worry about tucking down behind the windscreen until 3rd gear at least.
It took me a number of passes to figure this out, and as I was in line, and not watching any bike runs(we have a dedicated bike class, no bike vs car anymore) I had to figure it out myself. Seems no one was offering any tips at the track. A good idea to have a friend who can watch you, too.
I also feathered the clutch out, and rev it a fair amount on launch, you have to figure what work for you, I haven't tried reving it way up and just dumping the clutch, too chicken. I was running 60ft at 1.98 my best runs. If you can 60 ft at 2.0 or better, I think high 11 pretty easy if you shift right and keep the front down.
I suspect the inner airbox is probably only good for top speed, not going to do any good for drag racing! IT is just too small, and at any speed below full ram potential, I think it is a restrictor plate. Just my opinion, and verified only by my own unscientific, poorly controlled observations.
leave the line between 6-8000 rpm slip the clutch if the track has not been preped very well if the track is very sticky leave between 5-7000 rpm should be able to cut 1.89 60 ft 7.00 flat 1/8 mile 104 -106 mph foot shifting don't use the clutch leaver to shift use very very small blip, or load shifter just as it hits the rev limiter to shift
5,000 rpm was a pretty good launch point, my clutch wasn't liking much over that, and it was pre- latest "fix", and not working at it's best.
It seems to work much better now with the new parts, but I may not be able to make it out to the track for a while. Not really planning on doing this much, I was happy to crack into the 11's.
I found I couldn't properly shift consistently w/out the clutch, and I did not try the the rev limiter trick.
I found I had to fully roll off between shifts w/out clutch, hard to be consistent., and easy to miss a shift. For me.
You may do better that way...
I might try the rev-limiter trick, but not crazy about it,
Ok,sounds like great advice. Are you guys hitting the 1-2 shift a little early,or at/near rev limiter? Just seems like any hard 1-2 shift (street) on my bike hoists the front bad. I usually do that shift at around 8.5k just to be safe and keep it on the ground. Of course this is just street play,and I know I will eventually have to 'man-up',but I dont see any way of fully riding out 1st-at this point-so what are you guys doing at that shift to keep it down? Thanks again, Pauly
That's the trick, to give it the right amount of throttle for max acceleration, and keep the front down. If you get the front tire more than a few inches up, it will kill your e.t.
That's why guys are strapping their front ends. Now that I have a steering damper, I will strap my front the next time I go.
If short shifting 1st a little helps, it will slow you a lot less than running into the rev limit hard or hoisting the front in 2nd gear.
IMHO. YMMV.
Obviously, I don't have the quickest passes around here by a long shot, this is what has helped me run a little quicker and more consistent, talk to the the guys running low 10s and quicker for the real advice. If they'll talk. LOL!
I'm also considering lowering my rev limit soft/hard/kill down to around 9.5/9.75/10k. I'm sort of assuming that is what you fast guys have done,in order to go WOT-clutchless upshifts. Anyone?
My bike definitely runs higher MPH shifting at 10 + k than at 9k, I tried 9k shifts, and I ran a lot slower, my slowest pass for mph AND ET. I believe from my limited experience of 2 nights at the strip, you wouldn't want to lower your rev limit below 10k.
Oh yeah, I found my best passes, I had to actually back off it as the rpm came up in first, to keep the front down.
Feed it lots of throttle as the clutch comes in, and as the revs come up after the clutch is fully engaged, you might have to ease off the throttle a bit or you might end up with a face full of windscreen!
Tricky, and lots of fun, esp when you get it right!
Put a damper on it, and strap the front, seems guys are dropping up to a second off their ET with a strap.
Probably change the technique a bit then, I haven't tried it.
I don't doubt it, looks like he might weigh about 75 or a hundred pounds less than me, too. He might actually have wheelspin trouble, I can't mine to spin without putting my feet on the ground! LOL! Factor in the weight, he's still running a bunch quicker than I did.
This AFM guy running his out here has run in the 10s at over 130, he doesn't weigh but probably 20-30 lbs less than me, that's moving right along.
I watched him run low 11s at mid to high 120s into a stout headwind.
LittleButQuick has SERIOUS skills! He has great finesse at keeping the front down and launching,watching those videos. Hopefully he will chime in here soon.
Edit: I do know he is running a QuickShift,spoke to him briefly about it. Nice guy.