| Author | Message | ||
     Isiahstites |
Well the new racing season will be starting in four months and I have been planning all winter what will be on the agenda this year for the bike. Currently I have the bike down at a friends shop on a building table for motorcycles as I am with his guidance going to be cutting the existing neck off and stretching the frame and lower the neck. This will allow me to be a little more stretched out on the bike and reduce frontal area. With the new backbone and neck in place the Yamaha tank will more than likely not be on the bike this year as I will be using the space in front of the motor for a hand made gas tank. This will allow me to get lower in the bike. I will add a fuel pump and a regulator to get the fuel to the carb which will be getting a S&S style air cleaner and doing away with the stack. With the new changes to the frame I will have to make new fork stops. With the rule change this year I will have to keep the travel at 15 degrees to either side. After all of the frame work is done I will be building another set of custom pipes for the bike which should make more power on the top end. We are hoping to go over the 130 horse mark this year with the new pipes. Once the exhaust is done I will be hoping to add a data logging system to the bike so I can see real time a/f ratios while the bike is running. This will also allow me to a record a run so I can see how the bike ran through the run. There are various items I can log such as a/f, rpm, tps, map and oil pressure. There are many others that can be logged however I do not see a need as I am interested in logging rpm and a/f mainly. And last but not least I plan on adding a set of full fairing to the bike so I can try and achieve my goal of 175 mph. I have a great color scheme planned for the bike that will hopefully be worth 1-2 mph! j/k Pictures to follow after next weekend. Scott | ||
| Matty |
Awesome! Looking forward to following your progress. | ||
| Jackbequick |
Did you see the recent National Geographic Channel programs on motorcycles and speed? They had great coverage of the LSR attempts at Bonneville last year. With the three different teams all running over the existing record in trials and and the record being upped and then broken again in a matter of hours by two different teams? There are showings again on the 7th and 14th, the details are here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=158664&post=1057600#POST1057600 That should really whet your appetite for it all. Good luck with your effort! Jack | ||
| Isiahstites |
Yes, I did see the Need for Speed special a few weeks back. There have been a couple similiar shows like that on this year on Speed Channel and NBC had one as well. When I was at Speed Week this year we actually spent about 2 hours in Ack Attacks pit. The owner of the bike I was racing last year built all of Acks fairings so we got to see the whole operation. What an amazing machine! Scott | ||
| Isiahstites |
I forgot to mention in my first post the bike weighed in at 410 lbs with a full tank of gas........not bad for a HD bike. I will also be adding some stablizing support to the rear of the bike to prevent frame flex. Scott | ||
| Isiahstites |
Thursday after work I spent about an hour and half stripping the bike to what you see in the pictures below. I removed everything so the bike could bolted down to build table. I took pictures from all angles so you could see what the current neck looks like and what the new one will look like once it's finished.       Here is what's left after cutting most of the back bone, neck and down tubes off.  Here is a pic of the neck jig that I started to set-up. I didn't get much farther than this as I could not find the right set of centering cones. I will get back to the set-up Monday. I will determine the desired stretch of the back bone and move the chassis forward to neck jig at that measuremnt and then center the chasis on the table and bolt it down in place and then I will center the neck jig and bolt it in place. This will allow me to start mocking up the back bone and down tubes to the new neck position.  This a shot of the back bone after being cut. I was shocked to find out that the 1 1/2" tubing had a 1/4" wall thickness. I found a piece of tubing the same o.d. and i.d as the existing back bone I just have not figured out how I am going to bend tubing that thick.  I will be back to work Monday making the slugs for all of the new tubing to mate with the old tubing via a rosette weld. Scott | ||
| Isiahstites |
Thursday after work I spent about an hour and half stripping the bike to what you see in the pictures below. I removed everything so the bike could bolted down to build table. I took pictures from all angles so you could see what the current neck looks like and what the new one will look like once it's finished. Here is what's left after cutting most of the back bone, neck and down tubes off. Here is a pic of the neck jig that I started to set-up. I didn't get much farther than this as I could not find the right set of centering cones. I will get back to the set-up Monday. I will determine the desired stretch of the back bone and move the chassis forward to neck jig at that measurement and then center the chassis on the table and bolt it down in place and then I will center the neck jig and bolt it in place. This will allow me to start mocking up the back bone and down tubes to the new neck position. This a shot of the back bone after being cut. I was shocked to find out that the 1 1/2" tubing had a 1/4" wall thickness. I found a piece of tubing the same o.d. and i.d as the existing back bone I just have not figured out how I am going to bend tubing that thick.  I will be back to work Monday making the slugs for all of the new tubing to mate with the old tubing via a rosette weld. Scott | ||
| Isiahstites |
After I got off work today I went down to the shop and machined down these slugs which were orginally 1" o.d. and I needed .750 o.d. to fit the inside of the downtubes. I am not much of a machinist, but they will work.  Here they are in the downtubes, I started to drill the holes to weld them in place but it was time to go as the guys at the shop had worked a full day so I will be back at it Wednsday to make the slug for the backbone and to bend the tube for the backbone.   Scott | ||
| Isiahstites |
I got the slug for the back bone turned down.  I got the holes drilled to weld the slug in place.  I got the new back bone bent and in place. I had to use a 16 ton press to bend it, the 1/4' wall is a complete pain in the ass.  I am off Monday so I plan on heading to the shop for part of the day to complete some more. It has been kind of frustating working an hour here and an hour there, but it's getting done slowly but surely. Scott | ||
| Jackbequick |
You are doing a good job on documenting all of this, I'm enjoying following story. The photos are great. On the new sections of tubing, you might want to consider cutting 45 degree chamfers around the ends of the tubes. Cut it for about 1/2 to 3/4 of the wall thickness. That will give you a place to do 360 degree welds around the tubes and should give you good penetration. The tubes and plugs will all be well joined. You're a lucky guy to have a nice shop like that to work in. Jack | ||
| Isiahstites |
I had planned to chamfer the ends of all of the tubes for welding purposes. The frame should be pretty stout when it is all done as I am going to be adding some vertical frame stiffeners in the rear of the bike to minimize frame flex. Thank you for your comments and I do know what a great thing it is to have that shop at my disposal. Scott | ||
| Alessio66xb12r |
"...you are a lucky guy to have a nice shop.." MORE than lucky.... thank you for documenting with pictures. bye Alessio | ||
| Isiahstites |
I got the back bone cut to fit the neck. I decided on 38 degrees of rake as the trail was better at 38 than at 40. I stretched the frame 4 inches and it is about 4 or 5 inches lower.   Here I have the bike centered and locked down to the table. I set up the laser to create a plane so the center of the neck, back bone and rear axle could all be found a centered.   Look in front of the brush handle at the end of the table you can see the laser on the table and on top of the center line of the table.  Here are all of the pieces cut, drilled, bent, massaged, tweaked, fish mouthed and a bunch of other things that took me forever to complete. Oh, it's almost time to weld!  Everything is tacked in place and ready for final welding.  Here is my friend Dusty TIG welding the frame. I decided to have him TIG weld it rather than me MIG weld the frame. He is a much better welder than I am so it will be piece of mine when I am speeding down the track!  Here is the frame back at my house all welded up and ready for some more modifications.  I will be adding some gussets to strengthen the neck as well as a motor mount and steering stops. Scott (Message edited by isiahstites on February 23, 2008) | ||
| Isiahstites |
Put the front end on today along with the rear wheel to see what she looks like with her new modifications. I knew the front end was going to stick up out of the triple trees, so I am looking into lowering the front end a little bit. The legs do not have to be level with the triple trees althought I would like them there. I have seen lots of guys run them like mine are now, however I will be attempting to correct it as it will allow me more flexibility when mounting my fairing. I really like the new stance of the bike! Scott   | ||
| Rasta_dog |
Thanks for documenting your road to speed week again, Carl. I've been too busy with life to read everything until today. My dad is building a 1955KR to take to the salt flats this September so there is a 2% chance I may be there. | ||
| Isiahstites |
I got some work done today. I want to try and put in as much time as I can now so I don't have to rush at the end so I should be posting a little more often than I have lately. I made a template of a gusset and then transfered it to steel  Here they are welded in place.  Made my stabilizer bracket and welded it in place as well.  Added a 3" piece of tubing here to reduce chassis flex, I will be looking to do similiar bracing in the rear as well.  New exhaust parts have arrived.  | ||
| Isiahstites |
I removed the old battery tray from the left side of the seat post because it wan't allowing me to bring my left knee in. With the new fairing I want the left and right sides of the fairing to be the widest portions of the bike when I am riding not my knees. By moving the batter I can turn the oil tank slightly on the seat post and this will move the filler neck out of the way and allow my right knee to tuck in as well.  I cut the mounting bracket off.  This is the bottom of the seat post. If I had a rear fender it would mount here. I cut a wedge out of each side so I could bend the whole mount down.  Here the mount has been moved down and the wedge is gone and will be welded.  Here is the new location of the battery   I didn't get much else done today as I kept screwing things up so I felt is was best just to walk away and come back another day. Scott | ||
| Isiahstites |
I borrowed a set of fairings from a friend to see how they fit my bike prior to ordering a set. I think they are going to work well. They are just sitting there now , however the front will need to be moved up a little for ground clearance and the rear is going to be highly modified to meet the rules. In the rear I will probably cut the seat area out and re-glass it so it conforms to the original seating position of the bike which is the most comfortable. Scott  | ||
| Isiahstites |
Worked on the exhaust today. I cut an these 1/8" thick so the flange would a place to stop against.  Here everything is together prior to welding.  Here is the exhaust all welded up and wrapped except the last piece I may change it once I have the fairing mounted permanently.   | ||
| Littlefield |
I've enjoyed following the progress on you project. I have about as much fun messing with the bikes as riding them. Think you ought to put a brace across the back of your battery base? | ||
| Blake |
Very nice work. Thanks for taking time to share your adventure with us.  | ||
| Isiahstites |
Thanks guys! I am not done with the battery base yet, I still have lots to do in that area. I agree that I almost have more fun building them than I do riding them. Scott | ||
| Alessio66xb12r |
...."have more fun building...than riding..." i agree same for me !!! thank's for your post i really like this story ....land speed... this discipline looks like something "romantic" bye Alessio | ||
| Isiahstites |
Made these pieces today for the top motor mount.  Here it is drilled and tacked into place. I will finish welding it when I take the bike a part for painting.   | ||
| Isiahstites |
Steering stops are complete and adjustable. Idea came from Randy N at MDR, this will allow me to have the rule required 15 degrees while racing and then what ever I desire while moving around and loading and unloading.  I got started on the gas tank as well, it should be about 1.5 gallons when I am done.    | ||
| Isiahstites |
I finished up the gas tank today. I am kinda shocked to say that if my math is correct that I have about a 2 1/2 gallon tank. I started to weld up the bottom of the tank and stopped. I figured I have friends who are great welders and for safety reasons it would be better to let them weld it, fire at 175 mph probably isn't fun and I do not want to find out. I will finish up the mounting brackets for the tank this week. I haven't decided how I am going to mount the tank yet, but I will figure it out later. I am also going to order my filler neck, petcock and vent bungs this week so I can everything welded at all at once. All in all I am happy with the tank as it is going to work well in the small space and it is out of the way. The tank being under the back bone will also allow me to get my whole body much closer to the back bone rather than the traditional gas tank like I had before. Scott       | ||
| Blake |
Scott, What are you seeing as the duty of the bracket bolted to the top of the engine and top frame tube, fore-aft restraint, up-down restraint, side-to-side restraint? If you are intending to rely upon it to carry significant load or provide restraint, it might could use some revising. I'm happy to help. Blake (stress analyst for profit and fun) ![: ]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Isiahstites |
The reason I added the top mount was to make the motor as much a part of the chassis as possible. I have witnessed in the past in custom choppers with rigid chassis cracking the cases of the motor at the front motor mount, so I added this mount. On my last chopper I had it would sometime vibrate the top motor mount loose. it was very noticeable when it was because the bike vibrated completely different. So please tell me your thoughts, I am interested to see what you have. Thanks, Scott | ||
| Isiahstites |
My friend and fellow LSR racer Randy S brought a very important point to my attention regarding my newly fabricated gas tank..........it is block the air flow to the front cylinder head! DOH!!! So I cut two inches off of the bottom which is approximately 1/4 gallon so now my tank is about 2.25 gallons.  Here is the tank with the new bottom.  Plenty of airflow now.  Here is the cap and bungs for the vent, petcock and gas cap.  The finished product.  | ||
| Blake |
I think you'll want to take a look at how the Buell or other non-counterbalanced H-D based twin engines are secured to the frame up top. It would be much more desirable to limit that support/connection to one load carrying plane, thus my questions above. I'd assume that fore-aft restraint is the priority. The heim joint (strut) approach is darn near bullet proof and very simple to implement. Use one for fore-aft, one for side-to-side, and if desired, one for up-down restraint. A good way to ascertain structural integrity of small brackets like this is to create one from poster board and glue. If it is able to support moderate loading as applied by your fingertips simulating the actual sense(s) of real life loading, it is probably a good configuration. If it is easily deformed or rips apart, you might want to try another configuration. Bending/flexural loads of any kind are very problematic in a vibration prone environment. The L-braket you have is a bending load nightmare in each of the three load planes/axes (fore-aft, side-to-side, and up-down). Again, think of the poster-board simulation. Lots of twisting and bending deformation going on there. Think of the engine rocking back and forth in a fore-aft sense with that tab trying to remain undeformed. I'd hihgly recommend using struts with some mighty robust gusseted/bathtubbed adjoining bracketry. If you use welds, then it will be prudent to stress relieve the brackets and shot-peen or needle gun the welds if possible. |
