| Author | Message | ||
     Atc_no_more |
2008, 48,000 ish miles. Any suggestions for threads or web sites about repair and/ or replacement. Thanks.  | ||
| Ourdee |
Loosen clamp. Get pipe out of header. Replace muffler or weld pipe back together. How did it happen? | ||
| Atc_no_more |
Yea, I am going to an old school muffler shop tomorrow to see if it can be welded etc. Replace? Not sure what's available. Kinda got overwhelmed when I started looking through all the threads. It just popped off when I went over a speed bump, at 20 mph. But it was another "good" breakdown. Only 3 miles from home and a helpful guy who had a wire coat hanger.  | ||
| Tpehak |
You have to go no faster than 15 mph over the regular speed bumps and no faster than 5 mph over parking lot speed bumps. It looks like it popped off because of the front bracked is not fastened to the engine. (Message edited by TPEHAK on September 14, 2020) | ||
| Froggy |
Yep looks like you lost the bolt holding the bracket, leaving it holding on by by header connection, which itself appears to be weakend by rust | ||
| Atc_no_more |
I did find the end of the broken bracket bolt with nut attached when I removed the cover. Could it be that the bracket bolt was broken way back?...and exhaust pipe coincidentally at speed bump after long time stress. Good possibility. | ||
| Hughlysses |
The best thing might be to have the muffler shop make a new inlet pipe and weld it on. It shouldn’t be a big deal. Make sure you get the muffler secured properly when you put it back together. You may want to invest in new straps that secure it to the brackets. If that muffler falls off at speed, it can ruin your day. It would also be worthwhile to make sure all the header pipe studs at the heads are still intact; the stress of supporting most of the exhaust system could have broken one or more of them. | ||
| Atc_no_more |
Thanks Hugh. Will do. | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
Also, I recommend replacing the aluminum bushings that the broken bolt went through (in the engine case). They are like $10 and good insurance. | ||
| Atc_no_more |
ok. | ||
| Griffmeister |
+1 on what Hugh said. I had broken the front bolt and didn’t realize it for a while. Vibration ended up breaking one of the rear exhaust studs, not fun to fix. Would also suggest using a pipe expander on the pipe so that the muffler slides loosely onto the down pipe. This allows you to properly secure the muffler to the engine before securing the torc clamp or else there will be a constant tension on the front strap and hanger bolt leading to repeat failure. | ||
| Pushr0d |
I'd highly recommend you have the muffler inlet tacked into place while the muffler is properly mounted on the bike. Then take the muffler off, and fully weld the inlet on. Otherwise, the proper alignment is impossible. It looks like the fracture happened because of stress or corrosion. In any case, use new metal from the can to the flange end. Don't just weld a new flange on the end. | ||
| Ourdee |
Steve, I concur. | ||
| Ourdee |
11 hours left. Bib like you mean it! not mine. EBAY CAN: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Buell-Xb12XT-Muffler/2547 15477755?epid=1730627721&hash=item3b4e39befb:g:MjI AAOSwxUFfPvsB | ||
| Ontheroad68 |
I just ordered an new front strap from Newcastle, as mine broke yesterday on the shakedown run after Engine/trans rebuild. Yours looks pretty rusty, I would just replace the can with the ebay unit or buy a new aftermarket with tune from https://www.rev-mo.com/. | ||
| Tpehak |
Or you can just ask on https://www.buellxb.com to share fuel map for open headers | ||
| Atc_no_more |
So, old school muffler guy says 50/50 chance on successful weld job. I am optimistic. The Most Interesting Man In The World's success rate is 92% when his chances are 50/50. Haven't ruled out other options. You guys are sending me good info..  | ||
| Ourdee |
There are better welders out there. | ||
| Atc_no_more |
Options considered. Gonna go with Ontheroad68's suggestion of Revision Moto. Looking at their XB-SB slip on exhaust. https://www.rev-mo.com/exhaust Lot's of tutorials on their site. Learning about required ecm tune file install. It's all Greek to me at this point. But I do have a Buelltooth. And I did check the AFVs. Front 100, rear 67.9. Could the low rear be account running after muffler disconnect in order to make the 3 mile ride home?  | ||
| Atc_no_more |
Correction, looking at XB-SG slip on. | ||
| Tpehak |
This is race use only exhaust. Why did you decide to check AFV in the first place? If it works OK just ignore it. I would avoid any aftermarket exhausts on any cost because of they are very sensitive for any imperfections in tune and in mechanical condition of the motorcycle. Stock exhaust is very forgiving for such imperfections and engine works fine even with such low AFV value. If you are going to buy aftermarket exhaust prepare to be sucked to the rabbit hole with endless troubleshooting and if your motorcycle is not mechanically and electrically sound it will work like crap with aftermarket exhaust. (Message edited by TPEHAK on September 17, 2020) | ||
| Atc_no_more |
Tpehak- I do have a race ecm. Is that the reason for rear AFV at 67.9? I checked it because the Revision Moto map tutorial said- Before doing any form of tuning you should check the current AFV setting. etc. I am still learning about required ecm mapping/configuration and changing it. Never have done any exhaust changes and ecm mapping. | ||
| Pushr0d |
I'm in the same camp as Tpehak - my '08 ran like crap when I bought it (well used) - it had an aftermarket can (a gutted stock one) and a mystery tune. The backfiring on decel... I put a stock can on it, loaded the Buelltooth 'Race' tune, and the bike runs great! | ||
| Mark_weiss |
I've got the XB-ST exhaust. It's a LOT lighter than the stock system and looks very good. Much more compact. It is louder than stock, not terribly, but louder. Tech support has been outstanding. The tune file to support the system is spot-on but there's better news. A while after switching systems my O2 sensor began failing. With support from Dave at Rev-Moto, I now have a tune that runs better than ever and has allowed me to bypass the sensor. When I finally replace the O2 sensor, it will be easy to re-enable closed loop running, and I still have a better tune for the whole system. | ||
| Atc_no_more |
Mark That's good to hear. Looking forward to getting the XB-SG. I will be getting a weld job on the original exhaust too. Can't just toss this piece of history.  (Message edited by atc_no_more on September 20, 2020) | ||
| Mark_weiss |
I took off my stock muffler when the Interactive valve began sticking and rattling. I preferred the quieter note, but hated the rattle and the fact that the valve would not always open when it should have. | ||
| Giarcg |
ATC - Please report back on the SG exhaust once you have some time on it. Looks tempting... thx. | ||
| Atc_no_more |
I'm back. Finally get around to mounting my new Revision Moto XB-SG exhaust. Thought it would be easy. But....where the XB-SG exhaust rear mount bolt is supposed to fasten, it looks like there is a cut off bolt inside blocking the threads (see attached photos). I can not put in the rear mount bolt. Both of the mounts on the XB12X look to have one inside. There has never been anything put in there since I bought the bike new. Here I thought it would be a pretty easy SG hook up. Can anyone offer any thoughts on this? I am seeing this correctly? Do I have to extract what I think is a cut off bolt?! And yes Giarcg, I will provide feedback. Looking forward to hearing it sing too. | ||
| Atc_no_more |
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| Griffmeister |
That’s not a cut off bolt, that snapped off, you can see the stress lines. Ease of removal depends on a lot of factors. Biggest worries would be distorted threads or presence of loctite, but it looks to be clean and in good shape. Would recommend using a left hand drill bit to start a hole, might even back out on it’s own when the bit grabs. |
