| Author | Message | ||
     Ontheroad68 |
I just had this engine completely apart to fix the transmission, on the maiden start up i let is run for about 8 seconds then shut it off due to the oil light staying on. I let it set for a few minutes and started it again. same thing. 3 times. I applied lots of assembly lube during the build so I don't think I hurt anything. I then put the bike on the stand and took the oil pump cover off the bike, pulled the plugs out and spun the motor over. Lots of air blasting around the oil pump passeges and gears are turning but no oil is moving. I then pulled the bypass out (which is just forward of the feed line, correct?) and still nothing. I then loosened the oil feed line and oil did infact start weeping out so that appears to be ok. All I can figure is that the pump needs to be primed somehow, or maybe I connected the io feed line and the bypass backwards. Any ideas? | ||
| Griffmeister |
My 08 took forever, and I do mean forever, to get the pressure up to turn the light off. Pretty much the same thing, lubed everything going back together and pre-filled the filter, still I think it was almost a full minute before the light went off. I have seen some people here mention pressurizing the swing arm to help get the oil to the pump, sounds reasonable, I just haven’t tried it. One thing I did notice is that full fill on a dry engine is a lot more oil than you use on a simple change, have extra on hand. | ||
| Odd |
at the factory they prelubed the oil pump | ||
| Evilphoton |
i let mine sit overnight with oil in the tank-arm when i replaced the pump gaskets (i checked the condition of the gear on the cam). next day i cranked it with the spark plugs out and the oil return line running in to a can until it had a good stream. re-attached the line then started it and it had pressure almost immediately. also, fsm says to lube the oil pump guts with engine oil. just my experience | ||
| _buelligan_ |
You can either pressurize the swingarm tank (shove a air nozzle and rag in the fill hole) to help push the oil to the pump which seems to be the popular choice that twin motorcycles does to quickly prime the pump. I've also seen people disconnect the fuel pump and just run the starter in 15 second intervals with plenty of break time between for the starter to cool down and then recharge the battery. | ||
| Ontheroad68 |
I was finally able to get oil pressure in the bike. My NEW problem appears to be an excessive amount of fuel coming from the front injector. While I had the engine apart I sent the injectors to the shop to be checked and cleaned. They came back with a balanced and with a clean bill of health. Hmmm.. I'll be investigating in the coming days. | ||
| Tpehak |
How do you know it? | ||
| Ontheroad68 |
I am not 100% certain yet, but this is what I've found. - Front plug is BLACK, thick and heavy. Rear plug is black but not nearly as bad. - I looked inside the throttle-body with the butterfly open and saw a little puddle sitting on the ledge next to the the front injector output. I got a Q-tip (tm) down there and the puddle appeared to be mostly gas but also some oil (??). - I did the injector test with my Buelltooth. On the rear injector I could hear and feel the injector fire about once a second for 4 seconds. On the front injector I could hear the fire but felt nothing. This led me to believe that the front injector was stuck open, but if it was stuck open it would be spraying fuel once the pump is on, which it does not. Today I am going to Ohm out the injectors and possibly pull them out. The bike ran fine before I took it apart and sent the injectors to the shop..... | ||
| Tpehak |
If the injector would stuck open it would flood the intake with fuel and engine would stall. Are there another symptoms other than the pug color? Like maybe it runs bad, or sucks fuel too fast? (Message edited by TPEHAK on June 12, 2020) | ||
| Ontheroad68 |
It runs fine for a few seconds, then gets bogged down, starts sputtering and dies. | ||
| Ontheroad68 |
I took the injectors back to the injector shop where they put them on the test bench again. I watched this time and with my own two eyes could see that the both worked marviously. He ran lots of different tests and they all looked great, except that the forward injector did flow slightly more than the rear, but not by much. 67 ml/15 seconds as opposed to 62 ml/15 sec. This bike ran great before I took it all apart... | ||
| Tpehak |
Set AFV to 100 in ECM Droid. If the injectors was somewhat clogged before you cleaned them the AVF value is compensated for longer timing of injectors. So after you cleaned them they started spraying more fuel because of ECM did not have time to correct AFV value and as result it floods the spark plugs and causes the engine to stall. Make sure you have reset throttle position sensor. Also check with ECM Droid the throttle position sensor value shows 4-6 degree after you started the motorcycle when throttle is closed. If throttle position sensor is bad the value might jump to higher degree at closed throttle at idle engine speed and it will cause ECM puts more fuel and as result more fuel with not enough air floods the plugs and stalls the engine. It easily can stall engine when it is cold. (Message edited by TPEHAK on June 12, 2020) | ||
| Ontheroad68 |
Hmmm... I checked the AFV in ECM Droid and it was reading 92% and 100%. I can certainly set it at 100 and try it again. Lots of taking stuff apart and putting back together. You in Seattle? | ||
| Tpehak |
Yes. You have 2010 Buell XB with 2 O2 sensors or 2008 like it posted in your profile? If you have one O2 sensor the rear cylinder AFV is the only value you can work with. (Message edited by TPEHAK on June 13, 2020) | ||
| Ontheroad68 |
I now have a 2009 with (1) O2 sensor. AFV is 92%. AFV1 (not sure what that is) is 100%. Millisec is 0.83. I'm near Rainier/Othello in South Seattle, what part of town are you in? | ||
| Tpehak |
West Seattle. In ECM Droid go to ECM Parameter, then to AFV Settings. There are two lines: AFV (Rear) and AFV (Front). You need to set AFV (Rear) to 100. Read this how to do it https://www.buelltooth.com/afv.html Here are more different information https://www.buelltooth.com/how-to.html Also make sure you use correct heat range spark plugs, not colder. NGK iridium spark plug part number for Buell XB is DCPR8EIX. Do not use DCPR9EIX, those can be flooded easily. (Message edited by TPEHAK on June 14, 2020) | ||
| Ontheroad68 |
Thanks. I'll have some time in about a week to put it back together and give it a run. | ||
| Ontheroad68 |
Problem Solved. I had to take a couple months off because I bought a 1090 and rode the shit out of it. When I got back to the Buell I now had NO spark. Found a frayed/broken wire from the crank position sensor. Fixed the wire and now it runs great. Perhaps the frayed wire at the time was screwing up the signal? Not sure, but it runs great now! | ||
| Tootal |
Thanks for coming back and letting us know. A lot of folks find the problem and never report back and we're left wondering what happened! Glad you found it! |
