| Author | Message | ||
     Spuh |
Hello, trying to find the Showa model number for the shock on the Ulysses (xb12x) for my suspension guru to determine if he can rebuild it. Does any know? please and thank you. | ||
| Ourdee |
Does it need rebuilt? Chances are the part that handles your preload adjustment just needs filled back up and a new crush washer. Run that past your guru while he is looking at the bike. | ||
| Evilphoton |
i have a NOS ulysses shock, here’s what’s on the only sticker it has. interweb search only pulls 2 ebay ads.  | ||
| Tpehak |
It is probably be cheaper to buy just new rear shock absorber rather than rebuild the old one. | ||
| Lew360 |
https://st-paul-harley-davidson-buell.myshopify.co m/products/k0410-1ak-genuine-buell-rear-adjustable -shock-2006-2010-xb12x-u5b?rq=yr_2008~mk_buell~md_ ulysses-xb12x~yt_suspension Just for reference. | ||
| Pushr0d |
'Tmod', a fellow on the TriumphRat site does shock service. The stock Showa units on my Sprint ST were not great when new- he rebuilds them with calibration to your particular riding style and weight, and changes the spring if you desire. The OEM shock is not designed to be worked on. I can't say if the Buell shock would be a problem. My bill was a lot less than $400. | ||
| Tpehak |
The stock rear shock is maintenance free. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
The Showa unit chosen by Buell is fully rebuildable. If you have noticed that you need to tighten the damping adjusters to maintain the same ride, it is time to rebuild so that you can change the shock's oil. At the same time, the internal valving can be adjusted so that your preferred settings are more in the middle of the adjuster range than near one end or the other. If the issue is just that the first few turns of the preload adjuster are slack, oil is pretty easily added with minimal mechanical skill. | ||
| Ourdee |
If the issue is just that the first few turns of the preload adjuster are slack, oil is pretty easily added with minimal mechanical skill. And most likely all that is going on. | ||
| Lew360 |
Any links to adding oil? I'm fairly competent with a wrench, just don't know where or how to add oil. Also what kind of oil? Thanks for any help. | ||
| Smorris |
i did the oil refill couple times.there is is a write up if you search. had a racetech certified shop rebuild. IIRC nitrogen as well as oil refilled gone thru and changed spring and replaced bumper +1 on Tmod, used for triumph but if he does the showa, go tmod | ||
| Smorris |
again, IIRC, the shock has to have a type of schrader valve(think valve stem)installed to recharge nitrogen | ||
| Ourdee |
I thought the adjuster oil was just bottle-jack oil. | ||
| Tleighbell |
Here is the text from a previous post. Sorry i saved the text not the link so apologies for any breach of copyright and no credit to the original poster  "Buell pre-load adjuster fix Good point by DB. You can tell the state of your adjuster by backing it off all the way and then starting to turn it back in. You should start to feel resistance within no more than about 4 turns. If you don't, some of the fluid has leaked out and you're not getting the full range of pre-load adjustment, which will make it much easier for your rear shock to bottom out under load. There are a couple of threads here about fixing it, but here's the basic procedure: First, support the back of the bike so no load is on the rear shock. Then disconnect the hose from the remote pre-load adjuster. Take something like a small screwdriver, stick down in the hole in the adjuster, and gently push the piston all the way down. Now fill the opening to the top with oil; jack oil and fork oil have been used. The type oil doesn't seem to be critical. Carefully reconnect the hose, avoiding spilling the oil before you re-tighten the fitting. Now try your pre-load adjustment. You should start to feel resistance within 2 or 3 turns." I had my Uly shock rebuilt, so it can be done. Also, contact Fastbike Industries. they can supply a Nitron shock. I believe it is for a late model XB12Ss which sits about an inch lower than the Uly, but they can supply ride height adjustment so might be enough to put you back up to Uly height if that is what you want. | ||
| Tleighbell |
Here is another post i saved: "Here’s the procedure: Lay the bike on right side. Back off the adjuster knob completely. It may be a good idea to support the rear of the bike so no weight is on the shock. Detach the adjuster from the bottom of the seat pan (2 bolts). If you have the fan shroud from the cooling kit installed, it gets in the way and has to be removed or bent out of the way to give slack in the hose. Disconnect the hose at the adjuster by removing the banjo bolt. Plug or tie up the hose so the oil doesn’t run out. Hold the adjuster so that the hose attachment hole is pointing straight up. Take a small tool (screwdriver, o-ring pick, wooden skewer, etc.), insert in the hole and push the piston all the way down. It’ll usually move 1/4” or so. Pour oil in through the hole until the adjuster is completely full. If significant oil leaked from the hose, it’s a good idea to refill it too. Carefully reconnect the hose and tighten the banjo bolt while spilling as little oil as possible. Re-bolt the adjuster to the bottom of the seat. After this, you should start feeling load on the adjuster after 1/2 to 1 turn. It can make a big difference." I tried this, it worked for a while, then i was back to not working. Never could figure out where the oil went, could not see it on the bike. | ||
| Smorris |
i think the pre-load adjuster is just jack oil. the shock it's self i believe is also nitrogen charged |
