| Author | Message | ||
     99savage |
2006 Ulysses 31,000 miles The Ulysses has been pretty much free of major problems until the last couple of days. Day one: rode about 40 miles of rural roads at legal speeds then it started bucking, backfired a couple of times and died. Shut it down, waited a couple of minutes and it started right up but it wanted to buck. Finished the remaining 40 miles of the ride by staying in lower gears and keeping the revs up. Took about an hour break for food and headed home on divided slab. Ran about 30 miles at speeds up to 100MPH without any problems Let the gas run down to almost empty and tanked up with alcohol free gas. Day two: rode about 15 miles on divided slab, probably averaging about 80 MPH, then about 2 miles in city traffic, all with no problems. Took rural twisties home, made it about 10 miles and then the bucking, backfire, die sequence repeated. It really did not want to run at all, only made it home by keeping the rev’s WAY up. Once home did a TPS reset. Took the seat off and pushed this way and that on the ECM, the idle remained steady and strong the entire time. Have no idea where to start looking for the problem. Is there any possibility that the problem is in the fuel system? The low fuel indicator has been on more or less continuously for the last 2 years | ||
| Etennuly |
Sounds like your fuel pump wires are cut through the insulation and shorting on the metal mounting frame in the tank. #1 thing that messes with the low fuel light. After a time it likely has the pump motor wire doing the same. | ||
| 99savage |
Etennuly That makes sense Someplace on this board, a long time ago somebody posted information concerning a mechanical modification to make to prevent a re occurrence. Anybody have any hints on where and when that was posted? Can the wires be repaired, or should the fuel pump be replaced? If the fuel pump should be replaced where is the best place to start looking for one? | ||
| Etennuly |
I did a write up several years ago. I found Phillips insulated wire ends that match the factory wiring. I cut the four wires off right at the ends at the easiest end to get to. Then slid a near full length heat shrink tube down each wire. Heat activated them , put the new ends on them and plugged them in. For reference take pictures of the wires before disassembly. They are easily moved away from the sharp cast edge they are pulled tight over. I let them hang out then zip tied them away from metal. At this age if I take it out again I'd replace the pump. Replace the pick up sock and filter while doing it. You will need the two large base O rings, apply some vasoline as you install, and a banjo washer for the fuel line. Swing arm can stay on, remove bottom shock bolt and Jack it up. It kind of 3/4 corkscrew turns as it comes out. Pay attention to which way. | ||
| Steveford |
Hook the bike up to the computer and push the TPS adjuster cable back and forth while watching the TPS voltage. If the voltage jumps around the TPS has slop in it (it's just a hunk of plastic). The good news is it can be adjusted out. | ||
| Smorris |
Check out error code 33 about 5 posts down. | ||
| Smorris |
Check out error code 33 about 5 posts down. | ||
| 99savage |
Thank you, Etennuly , Smorris Called a HD/Buell dealer today, the price on a new fuel pump is about $375 Found replacement, non OEM, fuel pumps on line https://www.highflowfuel.com/i-35462670-quantum-ef i-fuel-pump-w-pressure-regulator-buell-ulysses-xb1 2-xb12x-xb12xt-2006-2010.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpJ OrqNLi4gIVIiCtBh2dkQrQEAQYAyABEgJUv_D_BwE https://www.ebay.com/itm/INTANK-FUEL-PUMP-BUELL-UL YSSES-XB12X-XB12XT-XB12-2006-2007-2008-2009/151940 551652 Any reason not to use a non OEM pump? Will look for codes tomorrow | ||
| Etennuly |
Is that a price for the entire assembly? I would hope so! The pump is a small electric 12 v deal just like in most car gas tanks. I'd take it out and do a little research, match one up for equal pressure, fittment etc. I have found that many of these type of pumps are out there for under $30. The last car pump I did, the assembly with mounting frame, float, etc, ready to drop in was $190. I bought a pump and replaced the hoses, for around $15. | ||
| Smorris |
Hope this is ok to post, if not sorry and please remove. On buellxb forums there is poster who sells all OEM parts as kit to do an all out rebuild, but really doubt you need it but is available | ||
| Hughlysses |
^ There have been cases of the pressure regulator failing. It probably makes sense (on a bike with a lot of miles) to replace all the bits while you're in there: pump, PR, hoses, and filters, especially if you can do it for a lot less than what Harley wants for the whole assembly. I'm considering replacing mine pre-emptively. Does anyone have an idea what's the longest a stock pump has lasted? I'm just wondering if it's certain to fail by 50k miles, or have some of them lasted much longer? | ||
| Etennuly |
Mine is original. 67,000 miles. When I had to have it apart to fix the wires it was under 30,000 so I did not replace the pump. I try to always have the tank full of non alcohol premium gas when I park it. | ||
| Hughlysses |
That's good to know, Vern. Nearest no-ethanol premium to me is 25 miles away in a direction I rarely go, so I haven't been using it. I probably need to buy a couple of containers and start stocking that for the motorcycles. | ||
| Etennuly |
When I'm out riding to where I will run several tanks of gas I'll run the cheaper stuff. When I know it will be back in the shed waiting around for whenever my next ride might be, I make sure to avoid the alcohol gas, and try to keep it at 2/3 full or more of pure premium. | ||
| Steveford |
I have over 127,000 miles on my pump. No wire problems, no regulator issues. I AM on my second TPS, though. | ||
| 99savage |
Thanks to All: Got around to checking for codes and got a code 21 What does a code 21 imply? For the last few years have run non-ethanol every other tank. The only locally available non-ethanol is a middling octane. Didn't have any knocking but worried about it Borrowed a motorcycle jack but am going to get some better ratcheting tie downs before attempting to lift it. Anybody interested in buying my motorcycle? I'm way too old, with too many creaking joints to do right by it. If I could sell it I would have space for a sidecar rig. | ||
| Tootal |
Exhaust valve actuator. It's under the air box cover. Could be the actuator or the muffler valve hanging up. If yours hasn't been changed then it's probably got the plastic gear version that's screwed together. That was upgraded to a riveted one with metal gears. Make sure the cable is lubed and working too. | ||
| Steveford |
It can fail without having anything to actuate. Mine eventually did. |
