| Author | Message | ||
     Huntsville |
OK, so it was idling high so I put on the tester and re-set the TPS. Couldn't get it to idle at all after going through the correct procedure. Then it started running (still poorly) on one cylinder. Front spark plug wasn't sparking so I put in a new one and now it's firing on both cylinders. BUT, stil won't hold an idle, even when I have the airbox off and hold the butterfly slightly open. I had adjusted it to where it should have worked, when the green light came on on the tester. ALSO, it's backfiring through the carb butterfly occasionally, and eventually just stalls after a few seconds. I was going to suspect fuel, but the backfire has me baffled. Any help would be appreciated!! | ||
| Greg_m |
Ignition short? (plug wire rubbed through or similar) Air leak intake side? Would be a coupla things I'd look for. | ||
| Teeps |
First thing is to make sure the battery is good and fully charged. And the battery cable terminations are secure. Outline TPS reset procedure, you followed. What year is your bike? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
My 2008 XB12X acted like my ironhead acted with bad points. I debugged as far as I could and even put the timing sensor on an oscilloscope. In the end, the correct answer was the ECU itself had gone mental. I bought a "race" ecu from IDS and it ran BETTER than new right out of the box. Do your due diligence with respect to cancelling out cheap easy stuff like sensors and bad plugs. If all else fails, IDS will be waiting for your call. BTW: Is your seat mashing up against the ECU connectors? | ||
| Huntsville |
It's a 2006,and I don't think the seat is causing a problem | ||
| Ourdee |
Intake seal? | ||
| Steveford |
Take the seat off and wiggle the connectors to the ECU with the ignition on and watch the dash. The ridiculously cheap seat killed two ECUs on my 06 until I finally shoved it as far down as possible and then drilled some mounting holes in the inner fender. | ||
| Etennuly |
This can happen if the TPS reset was done with the engine not fully warmed up. , or a carboned plate edge or both. I did an 06 TPS reset on a bike that ran pretty good. It had been setting an hour or so after riding. After getting the reset done, hitting perfect numbers it ran awful. Much worse than when we started. After the test ride it was fully warm and we did the procedure again with good results. Another thing that will make a bad result is carbon build up on the edge of the throttle plate. You feel any roughness on the edge clean it with a carb cleaner. The TPS setting, as well as the idle speed setting, are critical to each other. That butterfly's edges must be clean to fit tightly in the throttle bore to get the all important zero spot for the TPS. It must get an absolute closed(without forcing it) position or it makes everything the ECM sees and does go out of whack. It is the basis for timing, injection, open and closed loop, ECM learning and everything else the engine does. Even with the TPS set perfectly the idle setting is touchy and difficult to set. The books ask for 1050 rpms. That is nearly impossible to hit. This cammed up, high compression engine has about a 50 rpm bounce when idling as smooth as they can. With that you aim for the middle. Problem is it must be a low middle. Anything above 1050 will having it do the infamous idle 'hang'. It will go to and hang around 2000 until it has about a half minute to 'think' about it. Then it will slowly come down towards 1200 or so. That'll drive you crazy in traffic, so aim for about 975 as your middle RPM number. Just remember all of this must be done fully warmed up. | ||
| Huntsville |
I did it with a cold engine! So, when the rain stops I'll go for a ride and do it all again as per your recommendations. Thanks and I'll let you know how it goes, probably tomorrow | ||
| Etennuly |
That should get you going, but at this point, after tuning, I would put in a new set of spark plugs also. Once fouled, they never recover. | ||
| Huntsville |
If I can figure out how to change the rear cylinder spark plug! | ||
| Etennuly |
You need a spark plug socket, a foot long wiggle extension and a ratchet. If using a straight foot long extension you will need a flex or universal extension. Use antisieze on the plugs threads when installing. Start it by hand screwing it in several turns before using the socket and ratchet. How? You ask....use a length of vacum hose stuck on the top of the plug. They are aluminum heads.....do not over tighten. | ||
| Ourdee |
vacum hose stuck on the top of the plug Or 1/4" fuel line. Wait a minute and I'll show my cheater tools for it. | ||
| Ourdee |
I use these plugs in my XB12Scg and the copper color anti-seize on them. Only put a little anti-seize on just the threads. You don't want it to get to your O2 sensor.  I sometimes hand thread the rear plug by holding it with a piece of clear fuel transfer hose.  I use a 5/8" wobble socket for the rear plug.  This is a cheater tool for the front plug.  | ||
| Smorris |
this is a prime example of why this is such an excellent forum. No judgement, and good solid advice and instructions | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I want more info for that front cheater socket! | ||
| Ourdee |
It was sold in the BUELL toolkit or tool roll through the dealerships. Slid over the front plug making it easier to get a wrench on it. | ||
| Ourdee |
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| Ourdee |
That is Lorazepam's picture under his Uly seat. |
