| Author | Message | ||
     Hangetsu |
Well, at a bit over 50K, my clutch seems to be a bit of pulsing and vibration in the drivetrain as I accelerate away from stops. I guess it's about time to consider replacing it, but before I do, I have a couple of questions for you guys. First, what kind of mileage have most of you gotten out of your original OEM clutch? Second, do any of you have experience with aftermarket units; Barnett, etc.? For those who do, do you have any preferred recommendations? I've gotten over 50k out of the original clutch with a lot of stop-and-go commuting miles on it, so if I have to replace it, I would consider an upgrade if there's something better out there. Thanks in advance for any insights you feel like throwing my way. Cheers! Alex | ||
| Steveford |
The stock one was slipping real bad by 100,000 so I went with Barnett. No issues with it 27,000 miles later. | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
I assume your cable is adjusted correctly? I've got 80k on my stock one and its still good, plus i'm not real religious about adjustment. My miles are mostly highway commuting, though | ||
| Tootal |
That could also be a too tight/too loose primary chain. Have you checked that yet? Most of my clutch related problems over the years has been slippage. Did you change the type of oil in the primary? That can cause erratic clutch behavior too. Just spit balling here. | ||
| Hangetsu |
Yep - Cable adjusted correctly.. Primary adjustment within tolerance.. Primary oil - Amsoil synthetic, changed religiously Actually, it may be working fine. I only sensed a little pulsing a few times, but otherwise, it's working as it should. I was only concerned due to the mileage, but seeing how many miles you all are getting out of a clutch, perhaps I've jumped the gun. Thanks for the input. A- | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
I glazed my OEM clutch creeping on some trails. Replaced with an Energy One pack and really liked it. It came with a slightly heavier spring plate. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
I'm at 78k, no issues to date. Mostly commuting these days. The first 40k was 75% highway. Rotella 15/40. (Message edited by Mark_weiss on February 07, 2019) | ||
| Tootal |
I've got over 50,000 miles on mine and for a while the clutch would slip it higher gears and full throttle. This was due to me changing the primary/transmission oil to 60wt. Amsoil. This lasted a few hundred miles and then quit. I know better than this. On dirt bikes I learned if you switch oil you should disassemble the clutch and clean the disk with brake cleaner and then soak them in the new oil and reassemble. I didn't do that but eventually it quit slipping and has been fine ever since. | ||
| Hangetsu |
I read somewhere that OEM XB clutches don't have the prone to explode spring plates. Can anyone confirm this? | ||
| Shoggin |
Wut? ^^^^ Never heard of a Buell "exploding" a clutch. That reliability is what you get when you build a bike with twigs and rocks.  | ||
| Hangetsu |
Neither have I, but Sportster OEM clutches have a plate in the middle of the stack that consists of two layers of steel that sandwich an array of flat springs. The unit is held together by brass rivets, and it is notorious for coming apart and spreading bits of metal throughout the clutch assembly. This has been known to happen anywhere from 20 to 50k miles. Look it up! It's common practice when replacing a Sportster clutch to remove the spring plate altogether and replace it with a clutch pack that has an extra friction and two additional steel plates. My question is logical considering the number of internal parts Buell XB and Evo engines share. As I said, I am curious as to whether Buell went with a clutch pack that omitted or retained the spring plate. If someone out there has "actual" experience with replacing a stock XB clutch, I would like to hear from you. Thanks! A- | ||
| Etennuly |
My 06 still works well at over 65,000. Lots of heavy loaded two up miles. | ||
| Shoggin |
There is no extra spring plate in my XB. Just the regular diaphragm spring and clutch plates. | ||
| Hangetsu |
Thanks. That's what I was hoping to hear. | ||
| Nillaice |
in my 07 uly there was a 'judder' plate and a judder plate 'spring' that helps to smooth out the last bit of the friction zone(really just the outer half of a friction plate to make room for a spring washer on the inner half) id not re-use the judder plate/spring. I deep-fryed my clutch and replaced it with an energy one 'extra friction disc' clutch pack and I think I hung onto the judder for a while just incase there were any issues, but never had any, even with the lighter (heavy spring plate has 2 white painted stripes)clutch spring plate. there's also a special tool that you can buy to compress the spring and remove the snap ring. I used an empty tuna can and got the job done (Message edited by nillaice on March 05, 2019) | ||
| Firemanjim |
Tubers had the infamous grenade plate. And you might want to make sure your belt has all its teeth---- |
