Author |
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Sprintex
| Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2018 - 05:47 pm: |
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I replaced the stator and the regulator, took the Uly to the gas station on a very nice 38 degree afternoon, had the heated grips on and a Gerbing jacket, my little voltage light was showing green, all's good, then at a stop light it was hovering between green and yellow , after a couple of miles I see the light is red under 12v, shit,I get home all the connectors are fine, start the bike up I have 13.8 to 14.2 volts where I was getting 14.8 when I just installed it. I'm perplex any ideas? |
Whisperstealth
| Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2018 - 06:51 pm: |
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Did you go with a stock voltage regulator or and aftermarket one? I replaced mine when it went bad with an upgraded aftermarket one. I can't remember the name of it, but you can search for threads on the topic and it will come up. |
Cupcake_mike
| Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2018 - 06:58 pm: |
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13.8-14.2 is normal while running, 14.8 is not. I installed a LCD gauge is my cluster, I am typically at 14 at idle, 14.1 or 14.2 at highway speeds. This is with a cycle electrics stator and roadster cycle mosfit regulator I imagine with all the gear you would get a bit of voltage drop at highway speeds, probably be around 13.8...I only ever plug my phone charger in and it will bring down my voltage to 14.0 at highway speeds if I have the highbeam on. Your regulator aint right |
Whisperstealth
| Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2018 - 07:00 pm: |
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I looked it up real quick. It's the Shindengen MOSFET VR I went with. Lots of people have done so. Lots is threads on the topic you can look up. |
Ourdee
| Posted on Saturday, December 01, 2018 - 07:54 pm: |
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https://www.roadstercycle.com/
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Sprintex
| Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2018 - 08:14 am: |
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Both where aftermarket, Ricks Motorsports regulator and Cycle Electrics stator, both I found where recommended from searching this site. |
Glenn
| Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2018 - 08:46 am: |
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I have the same FH020AA regulator and the 13.8 to 14.2 is about the range I get too. I have a voltage sensitive, color changing LED light in my instrument panel but also plug this LED into my direct to battery SAE plug to confirm the voltage. {https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-3-5-30V-0-56-Waterproo f-Digital-LED-Volt-Meter-Panel-Mount-ASS/263458027 905?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=562483170899 &_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649},https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-3-5-30V-0-56-Waterproo f-Digital-LED-Volt-Meter-Panel-Mount-ASS/263458027 905?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=562483170899 &_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649}} |
Sprintex
| Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2018 - 12:36 pm: |
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I could have been wrong on the 14.8. I also hAVE the color changing LED mounted in my instrument panel and a plug in one tho the power outlet. I'm just trying to figure out what is going on. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Sunday, December 02, 2018 - 10:08 pm: |
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At idle, a healthy system can barely keep up with one headlight, fuel injection and fan. Add anything to that and it will be running at a deficit. I suggest that perhaps your bike is actually working as designed. If you lean on the gas and bring the RPMs up to 1500, is the voltage ok? |
Sprintex
| Posted on Monday, December 03, 2018 - 09:15 am: |
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When the LED was red showing low voltage I was I would say around 3K, I turned off the heated jacket and grips and still showed voltage low when I got home I put the meter on it and it was 11.8 at idle and revving the motor made no change. Later I started up the bike again and I was getting 13.8 to 14.3. cheep meter on the outlet ,its cheap but it is close. |
Glenn
| Posted on Monday, December 03, 2018 - 10:37 am: |
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Hi Sprintex, How old is your battery? You may want to load test it: https://www.batterystuff.com/blog/how-to-tell-if-y our-battery-is-bad.html https://www.motorcycletouringtips.com/load-test-mo torcycle-battery/ You can also check your stator. Search for "sniff test" http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/693616.html?1348524380 Glenn |
Sprintex
| Posted on Tuesday, December 04, 2018 - 12:11 pm: |
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New Battery and new stator. |
Glenn
| Posted on Tuesday, December 04, 2018 - 04:54 pm: |
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Oh well ... How about your battery wire and plug connections? |
Froggy
| Posted on Tuesday, December 04, 2018 - 05:01 pm: |
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quote:When the LED was red showing low voltage I was I would say around 3K, I turned off the heated jacket and grips and still showed voltage low when I got home I put the meter on it and it was 11.8 at idle and revving the motor made no change. Later I started up the bike again and I was getting 13.8 to 14.3. cheep meter on the outlet ,its cheap but it is close.
I do suspect your VR, but being this is an 06, I say check your "77" connector under the front pulley cover, that is a known common issue on the older XBs. |
Mark_weiss
| Posted on Tuesday, December 04, 2018 - 07:13 pm: |
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When my VR failed, it would check fine, and BE fine, for twenty to thirty minutes. Then it would stop charging. |
Glenn
| Posted on Tuesday, December 04, 2018 - 07:50 pm: |
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Well that’s interesting. I wonder if as the VR heats up, a fault in it opens up? Might be able to simulate it with a hair dryer on high, heating the VR as the bike idles. I’d contact Roadster cycle too and see what he thinks. |
Steveford
| Posted on Tuesday, December 04, 2018 - 07:53 pm: |
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That SuperMosfet kits from roadstercycle.com is really good, I have it on my Triumphs with no charging problems at all. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2018 - 09:22 am: |
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+1,000 on checking all connections. If you have a bad connection, you can not only get these symptoms...but it can also toast your brand new components if left unchecked for long enough. |
Glenn
| Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2018 - 09:57 am: |
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Re. Connector 77, check out Ray's write up: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1eGkF1pN1dftycP cTD-6Mb4p19gcxWvXEJcIIjEVFycw/preview |
Sprintex
| Posted on Wednesday, December 05, 2018 - 07:50 pm: |
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Battery connection is okay. I'll check the 77, it did looked fine when I replaced the regulator. |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2018 - 11:31 am: |
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replace it anyway, it's a known failure point. I spliced my wires together using a submersible well connection kit, sourced from Lowe's or Home Depot. Basically, copper tube terminals with a locking screw at each end, and heat shrink tubing. There's a writeup here on badweb from when I did it years ago... |
Sprintex
| Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2018 - 08:12 pm: |
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This? https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-Submersible-W ell-Pump-Wire-Heat-Shrink-Kit-EBSK400/205617995 |
Ourdee
| Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2018 - 10:24 pm: |
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the ones he used look like these:
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Ourdee
| Posted on Thursday, December 06, 2018 - 10:27 pm: |
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You can find the old thread here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/712127.html Real nice pictures Joe! |
Ratbuell
| Posted on Friday, December 07, 2018 - 09:01 am: |
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Re-read the original thread - looks like I did that at 30k. Must not be riding near as much anymore (or I'm spreading it out between bikes)...5k miles later (did my 35k this season), charging system is still absolutely flawless. Rock-solid voltage, even at idle with heated grips and jacket on. |
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