| Author | Message | ||
     Rustbucket |
I bought an '06 XB12X last weekend, with only 9900 miles on it. I've had an eye on these bikes since they came out, and couldn't resist the chance to own one. Man, the thing is a hoot to ride, though the engine leaping around inside the frame at idle is gonna take a little bit of getting used to. The PO is friends with the original owner, so I have paperwork for annual oil changes, a fresh battery last year, and a fork rebuild this year. The rear tire is from the factory, but the front was replaced a couple of years ago. Both of them, amazingly, don't seem particularly dried out, and they have plenty of traction under very hard braking in a parking lot, so I'm going to put off replacing them for now. I'm going to flush the brake fluid, replace the front line with SS, and replace the front pads, which are pretty thin. What I'm wondering is if there's anything else I should be looking at. I've never had a belt drive bike, or a something with a Harley engine. Do the belts need to be replaced if they're just plain old? Is there anything else to make the engine happy? My Harley buddies are saying plugs and wires are a definite, so I guess I'll do those too. Anyways, I'm super stoked about this unique bike and thought I'd say hi (and pepper you with questions)! Pic or it didn't happen (I've put the stock tall seat with the cool color matching back on but even at 6'3", I'm thinking about trying the short seat out):  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Congrats, and welcome! First thing that popped out at me - your front brake line IS stainless. Maintenance schedule is fluids at 5k miles so if its on schedule you're about due. 2 holes, engine oil (in the swingarm) and primary/transmission fluid (left side behind the clutch cover). I run HD Syn3 - same fluid, both holes, no danger of charging system issues (your stator/rotor live in the primary fluid bath), no danger of putting the wrong fluid in the wrong place. Get yourself a shop manual. Period, end of discussion, just get the book. It is worth its weight in gold. You should have the owners manual - go to the suspension setup section, read it, learn it, and SET IT. Trust me. Use the factory settings for a baseline and tweak from there to comfort. The charts are very good starting points. Also look through the service records to see if the fork springs were ever changed to 2007-spec progressive rate springs. Many folks ditched the single-rate springs (myself included) when the factory made the production change and it DRASTICALLY reduces brake dive and improves handling. Ignore your Harley buddies - Buells were always the bastard stepchild and very little from HD maintenance actually applies to a Buell. I just did the 35k service on my '06...and I think I *might* put plugs and wires on it because it's starting to get a little snatchy at low RPM when its wet out. But in my experience with these bikes, they're the personification of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it". I'm also thinking about changing my fork fluid, I'm starting to get a little bounce/float. Again - 35k miles. Belts don't have a fixed replacement mileage. Get a spare, keep it handy just in case (I carry a spare with me on the bike, and I can - and have - replaced one roadside with nothing more than the Buell accessory tool roll kit). I totalled my 1995 Buell S2 back in May - it still had its factory-original, came-off-the-assembly-line-with-it, drive belt. FOD is the primary belt killer on these bikes, with hard 1-2 shifting being a close second. With a fixed rear axle position, you can't put the wheel on crooked and cause the belt to track wrong, and you can't put it on at the wrong tension (although many - myself included - have enlarged the tensioner pulley bracket's mounting holes by one drill bit size to reduce belt pressure a smidge). Just keep an eye for physical damage - torn teeth, missing chunks. Fraying on the sides is normal - belts are made in sheets, then cut to width, and you're going to see the fibers poking out the sides. Ride. Grin. Repeat. You're going to love the motorcycle! And a note on seats - I'm 6'4", 34" inseam. You'll HATE the low seat - not so much for the height, but because the angle will shove your franks-n-beans into the airbox. The tall seat is flat, doesn't slide you forward, and has the added bonus of being cushy-soft. Read these forums and you'll pick up on most of the common "features" for when it comes to living with one of these bikes. Ask questions. And don't be afraid to ride it like you stole it! | ||
| Ftd |
I also own a '06 ULY. Original owner, now has a touch over 41K miles. I run Formula + in the primary. I also like EBC front pads and Lyndall rears. Get a new belt, install it and keep the original as a spare. Yrs ago I replaced the stock wires with Magnecors, no more cutting out in the rain. I know this is a touchy subject but I also installed a Free Spirit tensioner when I swapped out belts. Good luck with it | ||
| Griffmeister |
Also looks like it has the “wire” type clutch cable guide at the front of the engine. Might want to find the updated guide to replace it with. 9900 miles, what a deal! | ||
| Dr_greg |
As one who put over 80,000 miles on (two) '06 Ulys (both long gone; you guys know...) this almost brings a tear to my eye as I remember the start of so much fun. --Doc P.S. The shop manual has to be the best I've ever seen. | ||
| Rustbucket |
Wow - tons of great info! Thanks everyone! I've been putting off setting up the suspension properly. I cranked up the preload on the rear and haven't touched it. I'll get on it. And yeah, the front end goes dooooown under braking. I'll see what happens when I set up the front, and think about fork springs. Good call on the stainless line - I honestly hadn't even looked closely  . I'll also take a look at the clutch line guide. The scary white stuff (I mean salt, not snow) is gonna be coming fairly soon. My goal was to minimize costs this fall and really go over the bike in the spring. The only major thing I had planned for ASAP is the new brake pads and playing around with the Buelltooth the PO gave me (his wife bought it, but he said he didn't like computer stuff so he never used it). | ||
| Steveford |
Relocate the ECM as far away from the seat pan as possible. The factory fix stand off piece if pretty much worthless as you can bend the piece it mounts to with your bare hands. Grease the clutch barrel up at the lever and a good idea would be to source the throttle butterfly shaft that a fellow here makes. I forgot one other thing: up by the left hand of the steering stem there are 3 ground leads. Even though they look okay, they can give problems. Solder all three wires to one ring terminal and make sure you've got a good, clean connection with some dielectric grease. (Message edited by SteveFord on October 18, 2018) | ||
| Rays |
If you haven't spotted this section yet then have a look as it has a really good list of things that will help with your new machine.  http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/442053.html?1238017122 | ||
| Motorfish |
Good luck with your new ride! Welcome to the Tribe! I have an 06 too. Check out the New Uly Owner Info section. Some good tips brought up already. Check out the other grounding point on the frame under the seat. Remove the powder coating, and put some dielectric.grease on the terminals, as Steve said. Checking out the fuel pump wires is a good idea also. Mine were worn down to the copper, but I caught it before it made any problems. Easy bike to work on, and awesome to ride, enjoy! | ||
| Arry |
A lot of owners have gone with aftermarket brake pads (I like EBC front). The stock pads can leave a deposit on the disc, that can cause a pulsing brake feel. There is a buell "comfort kit" that includes a a right side air scoop (for more cooling air) and an under seat shield (to divert hot air away from the under side of the seat). These kits might still be available through a Harley dealer. | ||
| Skinstains |
One of the things I really liked about my XB's....someone in East Troy made sure they came with stainless brake lines. Unlike all the race replica 180 bhp rockets. Are you sure you don't already have braided lines ? Oh yeah...welcome aboard and FYI your Buell does not have a Harley Engine in it ! It has a Buell engine ! (Message edited by Skinstains on October 18, 2018) | ||
| Skinstains |
Dobbs Ferry? Isn't that near the Hudson Valley? If so you need to check out the HHR run. It will probably only be a handfull of people from here (if that) That starts at Bear Mountain and ends at a BBQ joint somewhere around the same area (I think). I'm pretty sure it will be on the 29th of this month. There is (was anyway) a Facebook page for it in the past but I don't Facebook. | ||
| Skinstains |
The ride is at 0900 on Sunday October 28th. The HHR post is on this site on "The Quick Board. | ||
| Rustbucket |
Thanks Skinstains - I'm gonna try to make it. | ||
| Etennuly |
Look up under the front left tank area. The front plug wire will be lying against the idle screw cables. It will wear through causing a miss. My 06 is at 65000 miles. If you have a D616 rear tire with tread at 9000 miles it has been replaced. They normally would see about 6000 on a rear and 10000 on a front. Michelin pilot road II are an excellent choice that can double the rear tire mileage and handle superbly. I like formula + trans fluid in the primary at 5000 miles, and I run Rotella 15 40 non syn 3000 or so in the engine. I add a pint of Lucas for hot summer months. | ||
| Ourdee |
Formula+ works great in these primaries. | ||
| Skinstains |
This Sunday is the HHR... Let's see that 06 | ||
| Tootal |
Do not use the factory torque setting on the oil drain plug!!! It is a misprint. Just snug it up, the o-ring will seal it. Many have been stripped out due to over tightening. |
