| Author | Message | ||
     Andrejs2112 |
Anyone know what a replacement bolt size is that bolts the side stand onto the engine? Mine fell off 200 miles from home. 😞 | ||
| Ourdee |
Teeps wrote this to Ratbuell in another thread.: Rat, Here's what I did before the recall was announced. Parts: (2)Bolts, 1 1/2" Allen head alloy steel 5/16x18 (black) (4)Washer flat, grade 8 (2)Washer lock, grade 8 Assemble two sets of bolts with 1 lock washer followed by two flat washers. Place a drop of clean engine oil on the bolt threads and the washer stack. Assemble and torque to 27lbs/ft. Hope it helps. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Reading this old quote and getting ready to mess with my stand again...it's been shown that the "flats" of the engine cases and the "flat" of the sidestand baseplate, don't always match / aren't always totally flat. Think front iso mount-to-head flatness issues. I wonder if putting it together thusly: bolt lock washer flat washer baseplate flat washer engine case might help alleviate any out-of-flat issues? | ||
| Teeps |
NO! Do not place a washer between the engine case and the side stand. Small as it maybe, the clearance that will be created between the engine case and side stand bracket, will provide a fulcrum and cause the bolt to break. | ||
| Etennuly |
I agree. Bolt it up flush with factory bolts, lock tite, proper torque, and ignore it for forty thousand miles. Mine went 65,000 to be killed by a mistake. | ||
| Teeps |
Add: If new factory bolts are "fresh" and have a coating on the threads, additional locking compound is not needed. Make sure the threaded holes are clean and dry. Then install the bolts and torque to spec in the recall service bulletin. If the "freshness", of the bolts, cannot be guaranteed. Then remove the factory coating from the bolts and use loctite, I would use Blue. | ||
| Ourdee |
Do not use a tap to clean the threads. Q-tips and alcohol is what I use. Some people hacksaw a slot in a bolt as a tool. I feel like I'm putting a warning sticker in the thread. WARNING CAUTION: May break a nail or cause DEATH!       | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
Any tips on getting the old, sheared bolts out? Mine broke flush. I heated one up to 200 degrees and then tried an e-z out to get it out . Didn’t budge. Was afraid to heat it up hotter than 200. | ||
| Ourdee |
Weld a nut to it? | ||
| Ourdee |
Use a left hand twist drill bit. | ||
| Etennuly |
Good sharp left hand drill bit straight up the bolt. Bolt = very hard. Case bosses = warm butter Take your time, go easy,little bits at a time making sure the drill goes straight. | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
Thanks. What size bit to extract a 5/16 bolt? | ||
| Etennuly |
17/64. Don't miss! | ||
| Etennuly |
If ya can't find it in a lefty use a 1/4 lefty to bore center with hopes it will pull it loose. You are exactly into what I ran into. I tried welding a nut on one. That got it super hot, with no luck unscrewing it. | ||
| Andrejs2112 |
I tried the left handed bit. Didn’t extract the bolt. So I just drilled out both bolts and tapped to 5/16” and put in some grade 8 bolts, washers and lock washers with red loctite and tightened to 27 ft lbs. in hindsight, the red loctite probably wasn’t the best idea, but hopefully I never have to mess with it again. 🤞🏻 | ||
| Ratbuell |
Well, gave the Uly some love tonight. Installed a stock X sidestand (I've been running a later XT stand with the bigger foot), with stock bolts. Split-lockwasher under each bolt head, clean threads, 27 lb-ft. While the bike was on the lift, I put a pushbutton bypass (an old PIAA lighting harness, actually) with a relay, on the HID low beam. Start sequence kept dousing the HID, so I need the bypass to reset the ballast after it starts. And, I installed a Hepco luggage rack on the factory topcase lid. I debated drilling and tapping for 5/16" sidestand bolts, but figure I'll wait till I have to. Threads were too clean for me to go drilling bigger holes in the engine just yet  | ||
| Teeps |
I would not use lock washers with standard length bolts... just say'n. | ||
| Bfallon |
Curious: Is there a design flaw with my '07 Uly kick-stand? It is loose. Tightening works for a season. And now I see all these posts about stands. Is there a compatible kit that will replace the whole shebang? | ||
| Teeps |
Bfallon Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2018 Curious: Is there a design flaw with my '07 Uly kick-stand? Yes The '06 & '07 Ulysses have the two bolt flange. The '08 and later use a 3 bolt flange. The '08 > engines have different cases to accommodate the 3rd mount point. The '06 & '07 bikes got the side stand assembly but still only used the 2 bolt mount system. Bfallon Posted on Thursday, September 27, 2018 Is there a compatible kit that will replace the whole shebang? Yes and no. The recall side stand assembly addressed 2 points of weakness with the previous side stand assembly. Add: the third mount point and change the pivot assembly. The engine case was not part of the recall. So not our bikes did not get the full benefit of the updated part. To that end, I rode my '06 Ulysses for 12 years after the local Buell dealer completed the recall repair. The side stand on my bike never loosened or failed in any way. | ||
| Bfallon |
Thank you for the in-depth response. The looseness of the kick-stand worries me -- a small thing, but for want of a nail the shoe was lost, etc. I enjoy the bike, but if the kickstand fails while I'm on the road I'll have to lean it against a tree and I'll have to sit on it to gas up. | ||
| Ourdee |
Or be proactive. I have a suggestion. Weld 2 pieces of pipe 2" long with a 1/2" ID. to the bottom of the muffler. Make a side stand that slips into those 2 sockets. There are other ways to make the sockets. Could just be a slot and a flat tab on the side stand that slides into them. | ||
| Teeps |
Bfallon, I should have asked if your bike HAS the recall kit. If it does not; get one installed by any Harley dealer. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Pull your bolts out (yes, you have to remove the muffler to do this). If they're not bent or otherwise damaged, put lockwashers on it. Some folks prefer the factory method of loctite on the threads, but in the case of a broken bolt (my thought is, anyway) the loctite makes it that much harder to remove the broken bolt. A mechanical lock under the head will be nullified if the bolt breaks and you should be able to easily remove the busted bolt if needed. That's what I did, anyway - see my post above. Recall bolts, lockwashers between the stand plate and the bolt head, torqued to 27 lb-ft with clean, dry threads. No need to weld to the muffler - there's a hollow rear axle! You can carry a dirtbike triangle in/under your luggage, or just look for a stick the right size if the need arises while you're away from home. Or use an old lug wrench. Me, any time I torque a "critical" fastener (sidestand bolts included), I grab some flavor of bright touchup paint. Put a dot on the bolt head, and an aligned dot on the part under the bolt head. Dots line up? Good to go. Dots don't match? Torque it before you ride. Caliper bolts. Axle bolts. Fork pinch bolts. Drain plugs. Clutch cover bolts. Handlebar clamp bolts. On my bike...they all have orange freckles! Makes for a quick pre-flight, though  | ||
| Ourdee |
That was what I was trying to remember. Thanks Joe. I saw a guy at HomeComing that carried his side stand in his backpack. | ||
| Etennuly |
Joe I would add that if you choose to use lock washers get grade eight. The leverage on them would seem to wear on softer ones. And that dirt bike stand in the rear axle.....the Uly X is too tall to get any comfort out of using one. The CG when standing still is pretty high. I used it, it worked, but only as a necessary evil vs leaning it on gas pumps etc. It is difficult for an elderly weakened fat guy to balance a loaded tall Uly while reaching to install or remove it under the Side bags. I tried it at home without the bags and it was easier. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Could always cut a piece of allthread about 4" longer than the rear axle, run it through, nut-and-washer it in place so that it sticks out either side, and have something you can hook over it (a-la "spools") if needed... | ||
| Ourdee |
 | ||
| Ourdee |
Oh, oh, oh. 2 triangles with washers in the corners, 2 all thread for bottom corners connections side to side. 2 4" bolts to slide through top corner washers and into each side of axle. | ||
| Shoggin |
Like this dirt bike stand? I've used one on a fully loaded STT (saddlebags) and thought it worked ok. https://www.amazon.com/OxGord-Universal-Triangle-M otorcycle-Stand/dp/B0713WHQML/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8& qid=1538230741&sr=8-15&keywords=dirt+bike+stands (Message edited by shoggin on September 29, 2018) | ||
| Etennuly |
Problem with the Uly X is its height and balance point. The rear axle is too far back. Buell got the fore/aft balance position right. You need good firm level places to use the dirt bike stand in the rear axle. It works but is limited and scary. There is a gap under the engine that is in line with the shifter pivot that could support a socket or tube, welded to the muffler, that would much better balance the bike.  Sorry about the angle of the picture, Android won't let it lay down. If I must revisit this issue that is likely what will happen. |
