| Author | Message | ||
     Portero72 |
So. Rode the Uly last weekend for a good long bit and had a blast. Then hell freezes over here in Texas for several days; freezing temps, ice falling from the sky, dogs and cats living together, mass hysteria. Suffice to say, I was not riding for a few days. Went to ride her today, since it was so nice out, and she would not start. Check battery terminals, relays, fuses, etc. Turns out, when the headlight fuse blows, bikey no starty. My question is, any idea how this happened? Bike ran, sat for about a week, then somehow blew a fuse and didn't run. A new fuse cured the problem, and I am inclined to write it off as an anomaly, but is there anything I need to be on the lookout for? | ||
| Steveford |
I don't know if this will be any help or not but on my old heap the actual connectors got sloppy loose for the headlight fuse. The fuse wiggled around like a loose tooth. Is your fuse fitting in there snug or does it have slop in it? | ||
| Portero72 |
Snug as a bug. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Mine killed the headlight fuse on a ride and I finally figured it out after some head scratching. I used the spare and it got me home fine. It blew it again a couple of weeks later. Don't know why. Wiring was sound and I replaced the 15A with a 20A. Hasn't been a problem since. Kinda a head scratcher. | ||
| El_guapo |
Check your connectors grounds throughout the headlight and frame | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
I went so far as to open my harness and felt up each wire. Either it's solved with the 20A fuse or it gets worse so I can find it. | ||
| Griffmeister |
I hope that the wires don’t file abuse charges against you. Would be nice if you could find someone with a clamp on or other type of non contact amp meter so you could monitor the draw while turning stuff on and off. You might be able to determine if something is higher than it should be. | ||
| Hootowl |
I hope you don’t lose any wires by using a 20 amp fuse in a circuit designed for a 15. Concur with the ammeter idea. Something is drawing more than it should. Any aftermarket accessories on that circuit? | ||
| Bluex |
+1 on current draw. When my cheap replacement starter had a leak issue (primary fluid got into the starter clutch) which caused a short. Each time I started the bike, that fuse was blown. No problem since the leak was fixed. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
The only thing on my bike that is non standard in that area is I have a relay coming off of the high beam that turns on my face melters. Those are powered from a separate fused wire from the battery. My weak-ass original starter had crapped out and I replaced it with a chinese copy. (No. H-D, I am not paying $380.00 for another Japanese starter.) I don't think that's related since I replaced the starter after my fuse-blasting happened. For me, it's been a couple of years since the fuse thing. Perhaps the act of me trying to find the issue accidentally fixed it for now? | ||
| 7873jake |
Crazy to ask a simple question but maybe pull the bulb(s) and check the contacts for pitting, resistance (any black carbon buildup from arcing), corrosion or derision? | ||
| Hootowl |
Corrosion on the bulb would decrease current flow. I doubt the relay coil draws enough to make a difference. |
