| Author | Message | ||
     Portero72 |
So, just got my rear wheel back from the shop. I had them mount a new tire and install bearings, since the old ones were notchy. The inner spacer has the slightest amount of play in it; when I stick my finger in the hole (settle down, Beavis), I can make the spacer clink around just a bit. Is this normal? I cannot recall if I dropped it off with that going on. | ||
| 651lance |
If I remember correctly the rotor bearing bottoms out in the hub first. The spacer goes in then the drive bearing is pressed in until I bottoms the spacer to the rotor side bearing. So the spacer should have little to no play in it. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
The spacer should take a bit of force to displace. | ||
| Portero72 |
So, imminent bearing failure? Explosions from the rear? | ||
| 651lance |
Needs to be tight or the bearing will fail. | ||
| Portero72 |
FWIW, I torqued everything up and the wheel spun freely and quietly. | ||
| Arry |
I would think that the bearings will have a constant side load. You may be dealing with just a few thousandths, so I don't know if it will be a problem... | ||
| Griffmeister |
If you believe some of the bearing manufacturers, they say that any uneven force on the bearing will result in microscopic dimples on the races that can accelerate wear. If your hub was nice and clean hopefully the outer race of the movable bearing was able to realign itself as the axle was torqued. | ||
| Tootal |
The spacer should not be loose. As Lance said, rotor side is fully inserted then the spacer and the drive side bearing should go in until the inner race holds the spacer from being loose. It shouldn't be tight but there shouldn't be any end play either. It's not easy getting the outer race of the drive side bearing pressed in without putting too much pressure on the inner race making the spacer tight. This puts pressure in the opposite way from a loose spacer. (Message edited by tootal on October 29, 2017) | ||
| Griffmeister |
Of course if you use the Buell/Harley installation tool you don't have to worry about it. It's basically a threaded rod with two discs that support both the inner and outer races. You could actually bring the bearings up to the spacer using proper axle torque without side loading the bearings at all. | ||
| Tootal |
I don't believe that's true. The rotor side gets fully inserted in the wheel but the drive side goes in until the inner race touches. My point is that the drive side bearing,s outside diameter does not fully seat because the inner race touches the spacer first. | ||
| 651lance |
Here is what the service manual shows.  | ||
| Ourdee |
If it was my wheel (and I know it is not), I would use the tool (not the axle) to seat the outer race of the bearing correctly prior to mounting the wheel on the bike. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Tootal, I was just highlighting the use of the tool.as it relates to bearing installation. Yes, the first bearing is bottomed, the second one “floats”. The main point is that equal pressure is applied to both inner and outer races. When the axle is torqued it applies clamping force to both inner races and the spacer, so you want the outer races to be in the same position after all is said and done. | ||
| Tootal |
The way I understood you was that both races would bottom out at the same time, thanks for clarifying. I also agree with you to use the tool or make one like it.  | ||
| Sagehawk |
Portero72, pull the wheel out and see if you have play at spacer now. If first bearing was installed correctly by chance, then other bearing should have drawn up to spacer by torquing up wheel in swingarm. Inner bearings races should but up either side of spacer. If done smoothly, no damage to anything should occur. | ||
| Portero72 |
TX for all the help, guys. I wound up taking the SS on a hill country weekend run instead of the Uly as planned. Legroom aside, it was still a sweet ride. I will pull the Uly wheel ASAP and reassess in a day or two. |
